I've got an 02 with the 2.0 and it's a manual transmission. I've had to replace the brake lines, clutch, water pump, alternator, coil pack, driver side window motor, passenger side rear window motor, belt tensioner assembly, and I have put an aftermarket stereo in it and changed out the seats with ones from an 04 xlt, swapped all bulbs to LED, and put a magnaflow exhaust on it. Considering I only paid $500 for it and it just turned over 367,000 miles I think they're awesome vehicles. Im looking forward to turning over 400,000 miles on it.
My dad had this car for 13 years and it was brand new at the time, it lasted at 450,000kms the reason we got rid of it cause the radiator needed a replacement which was more than what the car is worth with alot of kms but looking back we should of fixed it and drove it. Also had alot of rust on the fenders and the rocker panels but the engine was strong.
I bought an 03 XLT with the 3.0 v6 used in 05 with 12,000 miles on it.. It now has 212,000 miles on it.. I still drive it every day.. The engine runs strong and I haven't had any real problems from it.. I've had to change the starter, alternator, water pump, coils, and a couple sensors, over the years.. They were all pretty simple repairs and the parts didn't cost that much.. I've also had to rebuild the entire suspension.. Shocks, struts, control arms, ball joints, tie rod ends, and wheel bearings.. Again the repairs were not that complicated and the parts were reasonably priced.. The vehicle still looks and drives good.. I'm getting to the point where I'm ready to upgrade to a new daily driver, but I will definitely keep my escape and use it for a beater vehicle to take hunting and fishing..
Those escapes are super reliable, but the shocks/struts are really bad, v6 bank 1 coils hard to replace ( upper intake manifold has to come off) , fuel pressure sensor, and everyone that owes one of those probably can’t figure it out where the engine oil leak is coming from, and the worst is replacing the alternator on a v6 , not fun at all, but all those problems happens around 200k and plus
My 2001 Ford Escape V6 XLT (185,000 miles) has been a great car. Though it has had it's fair share of repairs. Was in the shop twice in the last two weak for a major coolant leak. Just picked it up today - thermostat housing and assembly needed to be replaced. A week before that the wiring on the driver side headlight finally came loose and I had that fixed. Vacuum lines fell off last summer, replaced those for cheap...three wheel bearings and soon to be a fourth, as I was informed today the last one is finally going out. Replaced both Tie rods myself 2 years ago. Replaced the AC compressor 5 years ago and made repairs to the rear dif. Hoping I won't have to make any more for awhile!!!
I own 05 Ford Escape XLT with 3.0 V6 and still runs great with 256,000 miles on it. The only issue right now is light dome remains on while key off ignition and doors shut so solution to this, I took off two light bulbs. Still love this Escape.
I have one of these. A 2002 with 205k miles. I've had two major issues with it. The first was the upper radiator hose coupling on the radiator literally rotted away, causing a leak. I replaced the radiator before a major issue happened. Second was the vehicle dying of a dead battery intermittently, even when driving. Replaced the alternator, same result. Took it to the dealership, it turned out the battery warning light was bad, and without it completing the circuit, the PCM didn't tell the alternator to charge the battery. Replaced the bulb, no further issues. Original alternator tested good. I love my rig, and am looking forward to another 205K miles, with proper maintenance of course.
Okay I am a shade tree 🌴 mechanic, so take it for what it's worth, when replacing Coil Paks use De electric grease for each connector and put a little bit inside the Coil before installing on the Spark Plug. It keeps moisture out and helps keep current flowing. I appreciate this channel, I only comment because you have first time owners who are trying to save money 💰💰 and they need to know details.
The dielectric grease DOES NOT “help” keep current flowing as it is NON conductive, but yes, it seals the contact point to avoid air and moisture and that keeps the contacts at their best, resistance at its lowest and voltage at its highest.
i had 6 car like this from the 1and2 generation: -the hinge on the rear glass (corrosion) -both rear strut mount (wheel well rust) -change all your spark plugs every 2-3years (worn plug burn the computer out) -steering column U-joint -check and change both front and rear differential fuild every year
If your Escape is acting possessed random alarm bell before you start shaking your fist in the air - ask yourself the last time you replaced the battery? The PATS system needs a minimum amount of volts if it drops below this you start getting issues. It happened to the one I own - replaced the battery all the issues went away. Having an xTool D7 is a must have.
if you have that combined with misfires then you should look to see if there is water on your pcm pins. mine use to misfire but only when it rained out, even right away at start up. water was getting into the pcm housing from the firewall.
My 05 escape v6 that has been meticulously maintained, gets worse gas mileage then my 4.6 v8 thunderbird with a 3.27 traction lok rear end lol. Both 4 speeds. No excuse for that
I have an 06 escape limited with 230,000 on it. Here we go with the fixes. So far I've had the ball joints and stabilizer bushing replaced. Had the number 1 coil go out. Back shocks. Brakes just started dragging and its acting like another coil is going out. I love this car but I'm glad I only pay $3000 for it.
You forgot to talk about how the damn door actuators and door ajar sensors go out in these all the time. I think I've got 3 that just went out on my 05 escape all at the same time. Also the alarm is randomly going off.
I had this Nightmare happen for the first year I had this 07' ESCAPE. I had 4 different mechanics look at it and put on a computer. No error code. Bottom Line Is the" Door Lock Actuators". 1 was $600. & some dollars. After I was given the bill and looked at the part # I called all car parts stores in my area to find out they were describing The part wrong they called it a door lock, omitting The word ACTUATOR. I called the extended warranty I had with the correct part# & name, the warranty paid all but my $100. deductible. Depending on where your car was manufactured, USA or CANADA, the same part has different names and numbers. Depending on the year of the vehicle, the part ranges in cost. Mine was actually less than $100. the rest was labor. I was taken!!!! that's what I get for being a woman and dealing with a crooked dealership!!! Oh yeah, and the lights and horn would start going off randomly. I was about to be evicted over it.
I had a 2005 Escape that my son now has. What we did was buy some black electrical tape and take a piece big enough to cover the distracting "door ajar" light. Problem solved. (Just don't forget to lock the door manually, because pressing the the door locks will not work on the door that the sensor is faulty) COST $1.75 for tape and PRICELESS for piece of mind :)
Same here. It went on for years and depleted multiple batteries, ruined fuses, and ruined at least one alternator. But I finally found a reliable (and free) fix on YT. Use a piece of wire, or a paper clip, to bypass the door sensor so that the circuit is perpetually “closed” and the car no longer receives that “door is ajar” message. Zero problems after that 5 minute fix, going on 7 years.
Will you guys do a second generation Ford Escape video as well? I really like these videos especially that me and my wife are in the market for different a vehicle and these videos help us decide what vehicles to potentially stay away from. Also Lenny cracks me and my wife up with his goofy noises and his gestures lol Keep up the hard work guys!
@@1AAuto My DPFE sensor just melted. I replaced it. The engine has a air or hissing noise now. It runs good. All the live data on the scan tool looks good. My vacuum hoses are new. I hosed down the plenum and other areas with brake cleaner while it was running and it didn't rev or stumble. Any thoughts?
your description of the EGR is incorrect the EGR uses inert exhaust gas to reduce combustion temperature this reduces the formation of NOx emissions (Nitrides of Oxygen) it appears that you have not even done cursory research prior to filming this video
I have an 07 Escape limited 3.0L and today lost power while accelerating up an incline - ONLY ONE TIME - no lights on the dash, no whining or weird noises, no leaks, just a random loss of power while going up a hill?? Fuel pump? Fuel filter? Clogged catalytic converter??
Gonna add the factory CD4E transmission that tends to fail mostly over 140k mileage. I got mine replaced at 178k miles with an updated internals and fix now the car is at 209k miles and the alternator starts to fail. But the engine still is clean as every 5k miles I replace the oil and then oil isn't even black each oil change but I do it anyways.
I feel like you missed the biggest one....brake hoses. They rot and break. I just did all 4 on my 2002. FordTechMakuloco did a video on the issue. The inner lining was showing on all of mine.
Another problem is the timing chain cover gasket. Ive had two engines for my escape and both had leaky gaskets. One high mileage and one not. The ignition coil problem is real and apparently a ford thing during this era. After 240K miles on my escape ive changed the engine (my fault), ignition coils replaced (twice), alternator (super pain to replace), all front steering linkages, pretty much all cooling components, most brake components (failed master cylinder was down a huge windy cliffside two lane grade), most vacuum lines, fuel pump twice, sun visors, driver side mirror, headliner, rear trunk lock actuator, and I know the previous owner had the transmission serviced. In conclusion, the first gen Escape definitely had planned obsolescence in mind but you can still keep it alive and have a cheap practical 4WD vehicle. If you have the front wheel drive version, just throw it away because the mileage is too poor to justify not getting something else in my opinion.
I was surprised he did not mention the rear shock tower completely rusting off of the vehicle. Not to mention the rear glass latch stops working and you can no longer close it. If you can't close it, it will break when you go over railroad tracks. So essentially this is a "parts cannon" car?
These little trucks are absolute tugboats. I bought my V6 XLT at 100kms and have had 52kms of easy running. Paid $7k NZD ($4k USD) and other than changing oil and the small amount of gear oil in the front transfer case, it just goes. They’re one of those trucks that you can buy used for cheap and get 5-7 years of good use out of before throwing it away at $1000 NZD a year motoring - which is a bargain. Then you’d get a few bucks back selling spares, so they’re even cheaper again.
How does yours run ? Today i bought a 2004 v6 4×4. Car lot sent me to a muffler shop,they had to weld the pipe together but said it's totally rusted out.🤔😭 It ran really well thru town & on freeway. I know nothing about cars but the engine sounds loud & ruff like its a big giant older SUV.
Problem with glass is the hinges where they connect to glass. I've had them break but thankfully my glass didn't. Cheap metal screw that rusts from rain. $20 preventative fix.
202 k miles 2005 escape. No engine light, shifts hard, small oil leak from somewhere. Needs struts, front subframe replaced, wiper motors all around, a new hatch (rust holes), kinda sounds like it’s dying when letting off the gas? Not sure there. The brakes feel bad, but the entire brake system is in good ordeal. Very sluggish. Overall love the car and very practical and good on gas, but so many issues
my bestfriend had a 2005 limited as her 1st car in 2012 9:39 tailgate glass issue happened, and she also had the common door close sensor failure(which shows your door as open) and also the alarm going off repeatedly until the battery died eventually,
Problem with front brake hose. Probably too short for suspension travel and steering movement. Punctured at 50k km. Loss of brake control and brake fluid.
He didn't even post this problem. It's a big one. I recommend you check all 4 hoses. All 4 of mine were bad. See this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qcL73oj6DoA.html
Chur..definately like the fact you add the sound efffect when you have something go wrong, because thats the only way some people can explain whats going on with their vehicle if they dont have any knowledge about motors etc...I own a Ford Escape 2001 v6 auto and was actually trying to find a video that may help me figure out whats going on with mine. Out of pure interest I watched this one. I'll keep searching, but if anyone can point me in the right direction this is the prob..Overdrive light was blinking and truck went in Limp Mode. Ive never used the overdrive before because I think the button on the gear shift was stuck (when u pushed on button it didnt pop in or out) I used my lil scanner n it came up with P0175, so yes 1stly it was obvisous my air filter needed changed and i cleaned sensor. Nothing changed with limp mode but yes when i scanned again there was no codes that came up.So took truck to a mechanic shop, they did a scan, no codes. Then they checked all sensors etc, they said a manifold cable was a lil loose so they tightened it. But everything seemed fine and i could pick it up. Not even a block, light starts blinking again, I was in Drive and it wasnt changing gears..Arghh!! but a couple kilometres more I felt the gear shift and I could pick up speed, but once I slowed back down to turn into street & im guessing gear 1 or 2 again, it would take awhile for it shift back up..still is doing that but I havent really been driving it, hence why I was searchingf about the overdrive button..oops was trying not to write a novel anyone cheerz! lol from NZ
Yes, coil packs are notoriously bad for this vehicle. And changing them in the V6 is a _lot_ of work. But you left off calipers - Ford calipers from this era are pretty awful. We drove our '02 for almost 200k miles, loved it a lot, but replaced coil packs twice and calipers twice.
Still got my 2004 2.3l, done 330,000km now and has had none of these issues. Only issue it has is the radiator fan constantly on, maybe a temp sensor broken somewhere
I just changed mine a couple of months ago. The Mitsubishi outlander fan controller module is exactly the same. Got the part on ebay for $30aud, and had it changed in 10 minutes. You need to get it changed or it will do damage to your engine. The engine take takes very long time to warm up
@@scrwUhippy I've had the issue for like 20 thousand ks or so. Shouldn't damage the engine. Thermostat is not gonna flow to the radiator unless the fluids are hot. O ly takes around 5 mins to warm the engine.
SOOO... What ARE the special torque spex for the rear glass?? While driving my hinges separated, the latch that held that u bolt did NOTHING and the only think keeping the glass in was the Right side gas strut, a cheapo from Amazon... saved the day from OEM parts failure.
Oh Boy where do I start...2006 Escape my wife bought things done to it,Replaced motor, Both CV Axles,Both Tie rod ends,Both sway bar end links,New AC Compressor,New Alternator,New Idler Pulley,New Serpintine Belt (a real pain to get on),New Water Pump,2 new ignition coil packs,New Intake manifold gasket (these are notorious for blowing and you will get rough idle and throw coil pack codes and misfires..yep thats why coils packs were replaced..not coils but a vaccum leak from intake manifold),also vaccum lines that control AC actuators,this will keep doors from opening and having AC or Heat to come in, Throttle Body taken off and cleaned along with MAP sensor...This SUV has been a money pit one thing after another all the time, I would run from it if someone is thinking of buying one. But hey some people buy some and never any problems but these are my Nemesis problems.
I really wish I could find a video for 2001 escape xlt v6 blowing out the defrost but not the vents. I can't find the hvac blend door actuator. Vacuum lines are fine, temperature knob turns everything fine, but vents stopped working. No codes.
I own the 3.0 V6 version. Nice car. but i need to fill the cooler reservoir each 15 days. Is it normal? Temperature, on the dashboard, is allways right, never surpases the middle point on the gauge.
Before you buy one of these you need to check for rust on the frame right above the rear tires. I really wish they would have included some photos of what they were talking about instead of saying oh if you have a V6 it won't be like this if you have a four wheel drive it'll be like this that's just lazy throw up a couple of pictures. Also in the first gen you got to be careful about the transmission the automatics in these are very weak and fell a lot just look up Ford cd4e if it's the later five-speed transmission then it's a lot more reliable.
My 2001 Escape 6cyl 4wd had all the coils go bad one by one between 100,000 - 150,000 miles ($100 ea). At 110,000 miles the transmission failed and was replaced ($2800). At 130,000 miles the air conditioning compressor went out ($1000). Currently at 150k miles and running well.
I have a 03 escape also,replaced a few parts, now I have a issue with the back lights look as if I’m reversing & now at random it doesn’t shift into reverse unless I shift it a few times….can anyone assist me on this one! ????
I bought my 2002 escape xls with 171,000 and now it has 210,000. It's been pretty reliable for me always starts an runs. It has its problems as well like light throttle hesitation, oil leak from God knows where, transmission shifts slightly hard off an on and last probalem I have is peeling paint. I love the little booger. If anything I'm just concerned of the transmission it shifts good some times I think it depends on throttle position but not sure.
Unfortunately we have a Ford Escape in the family, what a poorly designed terrible vehicle, having worked on many makes this Ford and many other Fords are a TERRIBLE Vehicle, I will certainly not ever buy a Ford, they are just poorly designed throw away vehicles. Everything from the door handles to the mechanics, bascially they are just crap cars.
I have a 2003 XLT with the V6 and i have it running good but i do have an issue with the air conditioner. If the car is sitting still now moving its ice cold . But when you’re driving it allows hot air to mix in with the cold . Not that bad on cooler days but 85 plus it stays warm . I think it’s an issue in the blend door of the heating box. Is there a vaccum or something i need to check ? Thanks in advance
LOL, the broken glass just suddenly shattered when the car drove by, you know, the one with the BB gun sticking out the window. Likely some kind of defect from the factory.
Thank you so much for this great video you taught us a lot but if I may say: Please slow down in talking. You talk way too FAST. Nonetheless, thanks for the great video!
I love my 2005 Ford escape. It has a little rust but it’s still Kickin. The only things that I’ve had to replace are the brakes the CV axle lower control arms, tire rods, power steering rack and pinion brake booster and master cylinder O2 sensor exhaust manifold refilled AC, three sets of coils two PCM’s two interior fuses thermostat Mass airflow sensor. interior lights and rear liftgate struts spark plugs interior switches, and her transmissio it’s going bad other than that it's a decent car.
Hi great morning Sir can ask you ?my car is first scape model 2003 the problem is meliaje odo got error but still running can you help me what to do. Thank you I'm ildefonso fagtanan
My dad had the 1st generation car for 5 or 4 years, but one day a van crashed into it and one wheel at the front snapped off and my dad was not hurt at all which was good. R.I.P Ford Escape 2001 - 2022 :(
Thank you my ford especially won't start it over heated shut down an now the theft light is blinking an won't start tryed every thing an love this ford help please 😢❤
An amazing speaker. I love my Escape. I m having a problem where it feels like I'm driving while my parking brake is on. I chkd all of the breaking system, it seems to be the Driver's side wheel is turning very hard, like something is preventing it from turning, as if the Caliper was stuck. When I push the over Drive button to on it barely turns. I jacked it up to troubleshoot it. It seems to be coming from the inside.
Possibly looking at picking up a first gen hybrid. Didn't get too much info on that specific model, but did get to see some details on things. Comments are helpful too. thanks
all good & precise, thank you.. but these issues can be fixed with a mechanic. You missed one of the main, if not the top problem with the Escape.. 'Faulty Alarm system.'.. the reason why it's bad is cause the alarm will not allow you start the car or it will go off beeping & will not shut off... i hear it from customers all the time on the internet... and to add insult to injury, Ford Dealership says they can't fix it because, "it is an out of date model, our mechanics only work with new models(2015-present).. sorry"... Sorry? sorry doesn't cut it, we can't drive our car that has no mechanical issues, just bad DEALERSHIP Alarm. Customers are just begging for a resolution as they continue to find someone with answers.
The #1 problem with Escapes of those years is the transmission. The CD4E trans has issues with Forward Direct Clutch Drum cracking due to excessive pressure.
@@JohnSmith-en2st Idk about their transmissions, but manuals in smaller vehicles like this rarely go out unless abused. I've driven manuals in many different vehicles and never destroyed one. You are far more likely to tear up the clutch than the manual trans. I wouldn't be worried about the trans unless it's odd. I would recommend replacing the fluid with something like Synchromesh if it seems to shift a little harder.
2007 3-liter v6 XLT 4x4, currently at 275,000 kms. Problems... oil leak from motor, DPFE sensor and thermostat replaced, back shocks, coils, transmission. I've used this vehicle for rounding up cattle through rivers and hilly country, surprised it lasted this long, and doesn't compare with a Toyota.
Good info to know. But . . . does anyone else wish this understood that overusing and misusing the perfectly good word of "potentially" when "possibly" is more appropriate does NOT make him sound smarter. Whoops! My mistake, I should have said "overUTILIZING" and "misUTILIZING" as they are proper RU-vid-speak. Too many mistakes like that and people will stop "conversating" with me.
What about the Red triangle with the exclamation point!? It's happened to me twice where I'm driving my 2007 Ford escape hybrid and out of nowhere a red light triangle comes on and the cars dash tells me to pull over safely to the side I turn off the car wait a few minutes and turn it back on and everything works but I'm scared/, Nervous Everytime I'm driving that this is going to happen again. Does anyone know what the problem could be? It's a 2007 Ford escape hybrid 4wd he titanium green. Any answers would be great. Thanks 🙏
I've put almost 200,000 on my 03 escape 3.0v6. from NC to Cali n back n all over east coast north to south. It's running fine @65mph to 80 and up but from dead start to 60 it sputters and floods almost. Scan says no coil issue no misfires no codes but it's something. I put racing fuel with 93 octane to go from TN to nc and it did good on last 100 miles. Help
