Find the correct TV part for your TV and more at ShopJimmy.com Click Here: bit.ly/ShopJimmy This is part 2. Troubleshooting of Toshiba logo flash in 46L5200 LED/LCD TV.
Great video! I wanted to share a fix that did not require taking the TV apart. I was able to do this with only the back cover removed. After identifying which LED bank had the high return voltage I cut the white wire for that bank of LEDs and placed a 6.2v Zener diode directly into the wire with the cathode facing away from the LED driver board. It worked great! The LEDs are connected in series and the burned LED becomes a short so it really doesn't matter where in the circuit you place the Zener Diode. The downside is that you are assuming an LED is burned without visual inspection and another LED could burn out any time if the strip is in bad condition.
Your method helped me out a ton and now I have a free TV! My repair was almost even lazier. I didn't have a multimeter that could do max voltage so I put a 1N4735 on each of the 4 circuits at a time until I found the one that would keep the TV on for longer, but it would still turn off after a few seconds now. On a hunch I bumped it up to a 1N4736 and now it's good to go.
@@ED4action I actually never really had a use for the TV so it sat around. Tried turning it on about a month ago and it wasn't working. Screen turned off a second after turning on. I had moved the TV around several times by then so it's hard to say if the fix didn't last or if it was just otherwise damaged.
@@transist0 cool, thanks for the reply. i found this one face up and it had rained really hard so it got "baptised". i plugged it up and got the logo and then it kinda faded for the "no signal"? info. i'm gonna let it dry out good and try it again.
Great video. thanks to you, I could fix my toshiba 46ul985 tv. I had the same problem. Replaced the defective led with a zenner diode as you did :) Thanks a lot.
Just what I was looking for. I have 46L5200U Toshiba bought March 2013 just failed with sound and no picture but logo flash. Yesterday replaced it with Samsung but I want to save it if I can. Your clear explanations and great camera work helped me understand the issues. Thank you for posting such great quality videos. If there is a class action on this product I want to join. :-)
I want to thank you for this video. I was able to find the faulty LED, ordered new ones on ebay and replaced the one faulty LED. The tv worked great and my coworker needed a tv for his son but after he took it home there is now a vertical dark area in the screen. I took it apart and the LEDs are all working fine. When the LCD panel is off the LEDs and the back light panel light evenly. Only when the LCD is installed does it have this issue. Any pointers or direction would be appreciated.
Excellent job!!! It works for me. I only suggest to be careful when attaching the zener diod. There is not many space when you mount the main defuser plastic sheet. However, I will place an order for the led strip ($25)
I have the exact same set which had the exact same problem... It is being fixed right now ... Waned to watch so I know what the repair man is doing :) Will be getting it back in a couple of days..These are GREAT TV's
Hi Lenny -- picked up the same set being thrown away and seems to have the exact same issue. Watched Part 1 and 2 to get an idea of what kind of repair may be needed. Do you mind me asking how much a repair like this may cost? We have had the same trusty (huge) JVC t.v. for 17+ years, so would be nice to upgrade if the price to repair this one isn't too high.
hey Jimmy i had my toshiba for 3 years feb 2013 the back light is out according to your video, same problem model 50L4300U smart tv could it be a slight difference in repair? wish you could fix this one.
Hi, I thought about moving an LED from the end of the strip to the middle where the faulty one was and then working on the end rather than the middle. Interested to hear your thoughts on this idea. Thanks for taking the time to share and you do some great work. I have watched every video of yours and I look forward to the next. All the best
Darryl Landry Didn't want to potentially damage other LED's from the heat by removing and trying to place them in other locations. Thank you for the support.
installed a diode it lasted about two hours, ordered a strip from china for $31 . great info in the video will be trying again if the strip is not available , I used a 6.8v zener and did not check the correct voltage size , but it did work and look good will post what I find after opening her up again (maybe another LED popped
Hey Bro, I really like your video. Its very clear, very intuitive. My JVC Model #DM65USR. The problem is the LED backlights are turning on and off every 2 seconds. Picture and sound are find. What do you think is wrong with it.replaced the power board. The problem still exist. Need your help.
Great video--the only video that shows how to fix the screen. I may have an interview as a TV repair man (70 hours/week). Do you think that they are going to want me to fix screens like this? Time will be a factor. Thanks. Frank
Hi norcal715 I have fujicom 47 lcd tv has stby light but not power on i have checked voltages have one 5.02v two 4.7v but no 12v or 24v dont see any bulge capacitors all flat could it be diodes transistor or is it mainboard can i get your help please
Another Great repair. I have a Toshiba LED 3D Tv, model 55TL515U and the problem with it is that the TV does not come on. there is no power light or standby light on the front of the TV. When I plug the TV in I get my 5 volts STB to the main board and that's it. However, every once in a while when I plug the TV in i hear the relay click and all voltages are present but there is no picture on the screen , even if I use a bright light on the screen the there is still no picture, and once i switch the power off I can't turn it on again, I have to unplug it a couple of times and it will click on the relay again. Any Ideas?
Kudos to you sir!,I wish I could work for you just to learn all this!,I love the simple manner in which you show your repairs,I have repaired many flat panels using your videos with 100% success ,like you keep repeating "lets keep it out of the recycle bins and landfills"--all without trowing whole parts at it,fix the component end of the problem!-thank you! (Current job is a panel of this post's model ##) ,I have read many prior posts of doing a jump from one lead to another to fool the controller board,but screw that,Im doing it your way!(which I think is way better)-I will check on complete LED strips first,any possible way to prolong the life of the LED's?,seems like a common problem with this set.
Just got done doing repair,works like a charm,ALMOST the same LED!!,,I suggest using an old gun-style solder gun to remove LED (it's bad already right?) use heat gun to re-solder to cleaned and primed pads,a dab of flux helps,,that OEM lead-free solder is a booger to get to melt,prime with silver or real leaded solder-go from top-down,melt the bad LED and slide off of pads (there is a center pad)-these led's are of two voltages I think,I used a cell phone charger (5V)to test each one ( negative is in direction of connector)-one is bright,one is dim,alternatly down the strip,LED's were cheap,6 for 5$ with ship from the bay---LED strip SLIDES toward the connector to remove strip--also--what a stupid design!! -1 LED goes bad and nothing works!!,glad I didnt pay much for this formerly dead TV!!---once again,THANKS! norcal715!!
UPDATE ( 3/21/2017) ,,replaced just the bad LED as last posted-set worked fine for 6 weeks and started flashing.....Just today I replaced entire LED light strip (brand new) ,we will see how long it works this time---IMO this TV is a waste of time from seeing the amount of people with this problem--I say part the set out or put up with replacing the LED strip one year ,,light strip #94V-8 1228 J 52 SLED 2012SGS46 7030L 64 REV 1.0 is available brand new on the "bay" for 39-50 some-odd dollars--good luck!--PS !! original light strip has slots on back-side which snap-onto pegs on heatsink ,,NEW lightstrip has NO slots so it does NOT sit flush to heat sink but fits fine with diffuser plate in place---LED's may get warm ,but I think diffuser will aid LED cooling--Crossing my fingers,,I am absolutely DONE with this set.---OH and there is NO software update for the June 2012 model,,only older models. NEVER RUN BACKLIGHT AT 100% AS VIDEO SAYS!!
Hi, did you consider moving a good LED from the end of the board to replace the faulty one in the middle, so the backlight was more even, then short the pads of the missing diode, then put the zener in series with the lead s you wouldn't have to cut the diffuser?
Ben Gugled There is a boost converter that provides the drive voltage for a number of series stings of LEDs, then there is a BJT or mosfet current sink on the end of each series string. When the voltage accross the strings are too different (because of differences in LEDs), there is excessive power dissipated in the current sinks and as a result a fault signal is raised. I'm unsure how else you think they would be connected?
Good video. Could you have fooled the controller with something in the lead going to the panel instead of replacing the led on the board? Lucky the fault was a short circuit. Do you see more faults with shorted leds instead of open circuit ones for these sets?
Hey thanks for the video I had the same issue replaced my led strip but now led turns on but no Toshiba logo before led strip replaced I had the Toshiba logo real quick please help
You can also use two soldering irons at the same time. One in the left side of the led and one in the right side of the led and then heat both sides simultaneously and then it comes out quite easily from the board.
thanks NORKALl for this interesting video . but according to my experience if one of the led s on the strip goes off we have to replace all the strip led s together other wise the tv will come back again to shop with in the next month and other led s one by one goes off. beh
I have this TV and my far(furthest from the plug) LED bank is dead. I have continuity from the plug to both the + and ground of that bank but I'm getting no light. I cross checked the LED driver by switching wires and it's working. Any ideas? And thanks for making this awesome video.
I have a similar problem in my TV Samsung is pretty the same of this TV . but this LEDs strips not work whit 12 volts? or that's a especial LEDs strips? why the inverter board drops more than 12v if that's not a CCFL lights ?
I've watched this video all the way through from part 1 to the end of this video. What I have to say, I'm in the middle of doing somewhat of what you are doing, but without messing up the clear plastic to where the LEDs shine on, I have taken apart an old phone charger and took out the .3mm wires from it, then soldered them on the leads of the burned out LED. I have tested the circuits, but the only issue I have is waiting for the zener diodes to come in so I can solder them to the contacts on the wires. I find it better to do that than to destroy something like that (Even though it's a small thing), but would rather have it all looking great, so if I actually do find the LED board that is for sale when I have the money, I would purchase the board so I can replace it without any issues and have the TV in brand new condition. Oh yeah, if anyone wants an extra LED driver board, hit me up. I have one and willing to sell for $50. They are rare to find.
I am trying to repair a similar set. I took out the led array and found one of them not working, I tried to add a zener but it did not work. Initially I would apply about 3/4 volts on the individual leds and they would light up, now the don't but still show the diode effect on the multimeter. Have the leds gone bad, how much voltage should I get in the leads into thes? The connector to the leds is five pin, so ,I assume these are 4 sets of16 leds in series. Should I be able to get a continuity from the black lead to one of the extreme ends? Thanks
Usually white leds are approximately 3 volts to forward bias them on. So if you have 16 in a string it should be approximately 48 volts per string. I hope that's what you are asking.
@@norcal715 Thanks very much for your quick response. I also want to know if a led does not light up will it still show the diode effect on the multimeter? My second question is should at least one of the leads(perhaps black) from the connector and one the ends of the diode array show continuity or is the array broken? Am very grateful to you for your assistance.
Great video. If anybody wonders how to separate LED strip from heatsink, it is not glued (as I assumed) , just slide the LED strip in the direction of the connector, it`s gonna come off. Also, peak LED current is about 150mA, I would recommend to lower this current or it`s gonna happen again very soon with other LEDs. The current can be lowered by changing the resistor values of the 3 resistors that are in parallel and then in series of the source of each of the MOSFETs on the ssl460_3e1b board. Just remove one of the resistors and peak current will drop to 100mA.
hello, I have a Toshiba Regza, when it turns on it will flash a picture, twice. about 5 seconds apart. the power light goes to green for a Saxon or two, then goes back to a flashing amber color. when powering up, the green light flashes three times. any ideas?
I find it interesting how the flickering in your camera stops when the backlight gets to 100%. Anything less and there's a noticeable flicker from the sync of your camera. Looks like they may be firing the LEDs slower to reduce the brightness. Great video, thanks.
Pulse width modulation to control the brightness. Leds are either on at 100% or off. They vary the duty cycle at a high rate to control the brightness.
Great videos. I have a Toshiba 46TL398. When plugged to power, the screen flashes for about 3 sec (no logo) and neither do the buttons nor the remote work. i followed this video, check the LEDs but they were all fine. is there any other place i should be looking at? thanks
Same problem here with the same TV. Fix: That's not a problem from leds but the pwm form the logic board to psu to the led driver board (Follow the wire) If you cut this cable your problem is fixed but you have 100% dim light and that's not good for the life of yours leds Then put a variable resistor to the pwm input of the SSL460-3E1B and turn the knob in the middle to have ~3v and adjust the dimming as you want. Bye
Thanks for a great 2 part video. However, I have a Toshiba 2008 TV, Model # is: 31AV500U which works but the FCC changed Ch 5 news & other TV channels disappeared also. So I am quite alone, ill & up in years. I have serious pain issues from FM, OA, AS. So having the channels I can watch or like to watch on my free Antenna TV set up. I can't seem to get my TV to scan. or I don't know where to go on the remote or the TV to scan it. A friend did scan it some years ago, but we R not in contact anymore. I have tried to do it pushing every button I could & nothing works. I'm not sure if it is me or the TV. If U have any ideas please do let me know...
There should be a "rescan channels" option in the tuner or antenna section on the user menu of your tv. If the channel has moved and the FCC assignment has changed then it will have to be re-scanned or re-added later. Thanks
@@norcal715 I can't make my TV scan. There is no buttons to go to or up or down buttons to get to rescan this TV. I also lost other channels too... Very upset & frustrated!!
@@norcal715 Unfortunately my remote doesn't seem to have buttons to go to rescan or I would have done so. I went to the TV & I can't seem to scan it from there either. it is a Toshiba from 2008. Toshiba doesn't have my TV in their lists. I guess it it too old. I wanted to try to set up a Time warner remote,but I can't seem to do this even with the list of numbers from Toshiba. Any ideas how I can scan my TV.? I no longer get more than 3 channels I can watch. I dislike most of what is on TV. I like the news CNN which I did not get, but I got Comet,Chance,This TV, Me TV, cH 5 NEWS & a few others I enjoy a bit..
on page 30 of the owners manual it discusses how to program channels. support.toshiba.com/support/staticContentDetail?contentId=2816429&isFromTOCLink=false "To program channels automatically: Configure the antenna input source, if you have not already done so ( page 29). Press and open the Setup menu. Highlight Auto Ch Search. Press (>) or to begin channel programming (A new set of Auto Ch Search The TV will automatically cycle through all the antenna channels, and store all active channels in the channel memory. While the TV is cycling through the channels, the message “Progress(%)” appears a white bar to indicate the scanning status (as shown above). To cancel channel programming, press on the remote control. When channel programming is finished, press exit or (^) (v) to view the programmed channels.
hi i have the same problem my toshiba model is 58l4300u would the voltage value be about the same also it seems to be very difficult to locate replacement leds can you advise where to locate them
where we can find those tv led strip as replacement parts i search for them and cant find any the only available look like use dismatle from broken tv on ebay
+danys masse hi i have a toshiba 46tl963 and i have ordered the leds for it it has a part number for the 64 led strip you can order here - www.yoycart.com/Product/520801002367/Absolutely_new_Samsung_46_inch_LED_light
+Raymond Jackson there should be a part number which is printed on the strip itself mine has - SLED 2012SGS46 7030L 64 REV1.0 printed on the strip of leds my model is a toshiba 46tl963 model
Thanks. I do not have my TV open now, so i was trying to find the part number without going into it. is there a source where they would have a breakdown of the components of the 46L5200U TV? Thanks again.
buona sera ho lo stesso difetto di questa tv ma devo invertire i fili come hai fatto tu , poi gli devo mettere un diodo al posto del lid il diodo di quando deve essere grazie
Couldn't you have put the zener diode just on the circuit that had too high of a voltage instead of taking the whole thing apart? The shirted LED could have remained in the circuit.
Question... How did you power up the LED's after you had taken everything apart? Did you leave it plugged into the AC or did you have a separate power supply? Or can you leave it plugged up to power it on? Also, ???? found some at Farnell (uk.farnell.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?catalogId=15001&langId=44&storeId=10151&categoryId=700000006148&mf=107612&pageSize=25&showResults=true&pf=112157830) and I found some of the same at Mouser ( www.mouser.com/Wurth-Electronics/Optoelectronics/LED-Lighting/LED-Emitters/High-Power-LEDs-White/_/N-8usfj?P=1z0jmj8Z1yox9j7&Ns=Vf+-+Forward+Voltage|1).
Thanks. I have since replaced the lighting strip, but still have the old one. I would like to test it anyways and possibly repair it to have a spare in case the new one goes out. Thanks again.
amtpdb1 zener's confuse me a bit too. aparently, they work as regular diods when used the correct way around, but will work in reverse as a crude voltage regulator to drop voltage by what they are rated for.(eg 15v in through a 6v zener gives 14.5 v in normal orientation, but 9v in reverse
amtpdb1 The junction of a Zener diode breaks down at it's Zener voltage when reverse biased, so you effectively get a voltage drop across the diode equal to it's Zener diode voltage when passing a current through it. When forward biased, it operates like a standard diode. All the energy dumped into the diode is wasted as heat.
voltare2amstereo Thats a good way to put it. I didn't have time to completely explain it but you got the essentials of my description. Thanks for watching.
Maybe someone else said it or you thought of it later on.... Take one of end LED's and the diode would take it's place and more room for the diode to solder... Then you replace the old led with the end one.... That way no dark spot.... Just a after thought ....
5V forward voltage on a white led? I'm pretty sure that for a single white led you shouldn't exceed about 3.6-3.8V even for a high power led but anyway. Keep up the good work :)
ciprianwiner Looking closely at the pack with a microscope it is actually 2 LED's in one package. I had some single ones out of another scrap set that biased in the range of 2.5 to 3.5 volts. but I couldn't fit 2 of them in the circuit. Thanks
+norcal715 Could these fit in there? I have this exact same issue with my 46L5200 www.cree.com/LED-Components-and-Modules/Products/XLamp/Discrete-Directional/XLamp-MLC
