This is a great idea so Grateful You shared this. I have been raising my rear end up with air bags when I load my dirt bike on the rear and now my brand new front rotors have warped because the LSPV had the rear brakes off. How has this worked for You ? And probably a dumb question what way do You adjust the lever to add more rear brake Up or Down ? Thanks so much
I responded to "Houndsman" down below if you wouldn't mind reading. I cannot get adequate pedal resistance and I've read damn near every fing post online without coming to any conclusion. I'm about to remove the LSPV and soak it in B12 overnight because I'm thinking it is totally stricken - since the first brake bleed I did in 2016 (long story) was like sucking vomit out of a dead calf. Yes, it was THAT BAD. Great pressure up front - crap pressure at the drums is what a recent trip to the brake tech amounted to. I do NOT want to do the Wilwood manual valve thing. I want a working LSPV on this truck and my thought is that I can clean and reinstall it and that be the end of it. Yes - my rig was lifted before I bought it and it has 33's on the ground. Not sure of the actual lift height to be honest. Huge thanks to anyone who can help.
You can just cap it off on the axle. It does nothing on your truck. Just get an adjustable P valve and dial it in to what works for your truck. it's simple.
@@aerialrescuesolutions3277 Thank you for responding. A few months ago I opted to take her in to a local mech shop in the mountains - where 4x4 is a way of life. It seems there are many who share your opinion (online at least) of the LSPV delete, however not everyone shares that opinion - especially since we are talking about the brake system and what engineering went into producing it. What I find interesting is that, following the recent complete OE replacement of my runner's LSPV module, I still have an extremely soft brake pedal. One of the mechs whom I do actually trust, suggested that my vehicle may be like one of his father's older trucks which also has a soft brake pedal that seemingly cannot be cured. By this time, every piece of my runner's brake system except for the hard lines and brake pedal assembly itself have been completely replaced to spec using the best parts I can find. Actually the master cylinder has now been replaced twice with no change in pedal pressure. Also - to note - the E-brake does not fully prevent the truck from rolling on an inclined slope - and it doesn't take much of a slope for it to start rolling. I cannot help but think that this has something to do with the soft brake pedal action - and I just replaced the forward E-brake cable after it snapped at the firewall.
@@christopherlaskoski189 have you tried adjust the drum shoes put untill slight drag on the drum I put in new brake cylinders and did not adjust shoes out gave a super soft pedal. Got em adjusted right and the pedal feels pretty good, for an old toyota.
@@christopherlaskoski189 your ebrake is cable operated directly to the shoes bypassing the whole hydraulic system. Unrelated. You need to adjust your shoes and maybe your cable.
The eyelet bolt is called a “rod end bolt”. The ID is 1/4”, length is 3 1/2” from eye to rod end, and it’s 1/4-20 threads. Then you just need some 1/4-20 nuts to snug it up.
I have an 88 DLX 4x4 black with dried red blood interior. That gives you a visual. I bought it already lifted with 33's on the ground. The brake pedal is soft and goes to the floor with little resistance. When I got the truck - I barely made it home because the braking system had been (somehow) overlooked when all the image-focused work was being performed by the previous owner. It is the Age of the Image - so I should not be super surprised. Right? Right. I have replaced the MC, the booster, all flex lines, pads, rotors, new fluid of course, and the left rear wheel cylinder when replacing the wheel bearing. There are NO leaks - there is no evidence of fluid lost - but yet I cannot get the brake pedal to feel.....how do I say.......RIGHT - like when I see people without masks on - like that kind of RIGHT. Anyway - the vehicle does not stop as fast as I think it should. When I bought the truck - it came off a ranch near San Antonio and had about 140K miles on it. That was early 2016. So it wasn't used much, but when I got it and did all of the above - the existing brake fluid looked like puke - literally. Rust or dirt or both. My 91 Volvo 240 has the orig brake fluid in it and it looks amazing in comparison to what I experienced on that first 4runner brake bleed. I almost vomited to be honest. But we cannot compare even the Statue of David to a Volvo 240, so I'm probably out of line here. You have a truck (a Toyota 4runner or a Unimog) and a Volvo 240 first.........whatever crap vehicle you want to drive after that.....do it on your own time. That's how I roll. My third vehicle is an e39 540iT. Actually two of them. And then there's the 65 Amazon......whatever. So what I am thinking is that the LSPV (original and still mounted) is clogged given how horrible that first brake bleed was. I had a brake tech look at it just 6 months ago (AGAIN) and he said that he wasn't getting enough pressure at the rear drums - that the front was fine but the back was not. But I have read thoroughly about the whole Wilwood manual valve following the LSPV delete blah blah blah and I'm seriously not sure I want to go that route. I actually would prefer to keep the original LSPV and have it working like it should - much to all my rig companion friends chagrin. Let's hear what you have to say about this. You mind?
