@@LAactor We've had some friends so have had their cars, trucks there. He's not CHEAP AT ALL. HE EVEN SAID THIS IS A VERY COSTLY REPAIR! Cleaning a simple wheel SHOULD NOT !!
I Know You Have To Change The Brake Shoes. I've Been A Mechanic For 49 Years. 33 Years In The Dealers. What I Use To Do Many Many Times If The Brake Shoes Had Plenty Of Brake Lining Left Was To Burn The Oil Off With A Torch. The Heat Draws The Oil Out Of The Lining Completely And You Can Reuse The Shoes Only If They Are Thick Enough And Not Have A Problem. Never Ever Did Have A Problem With Bonded Or Riveted SHoes . It Might Sounds Crazy But It Works.
In my youth I knew a very experienced mechanic, he always put a few shakes of Ajax powder cleanser in the drums when he was installing new drums and shoes.
Thanks, I always enjoy your videos and I learn something every time. For guys facing this issue ( I know Peter already knows this stuff): You can take a spray bottle of water and hit the mystery fluid with it. If it turns milky or partially dissolves, it's brake fluid, if it beads up, it's oil. Pretty easy to smell conventional gear oil anyway as Peter did, so not sure how useful the test is. Always good to lift the slave cylinder boot and just double check to see if any fluid is leaking by since you are doing a brake job anyway. Sometimes they are also weeping, but it is masked by the axle seal leak. Also, my 96 4Runner had this issue twice (Big $) and I supposedly replaced the breather both times (well, I paid for it anyway). Mine does get a little off road use, but I'm not sure why it would plug up. Third time, I found that I could move the breather cap, but when I unscrewed it from the rear end and tried to blow through it, the breather was actually plugged. Possibly the mechanic left the old breather on, I don't know for sure. So, I did the breather modification (bought new threaded nipple for rear end, ran transmission hose up to gas cap compartment with breather now sheltered inside behind gas door), went with OEM seals and bearings - has not been a problem since (8 years). The first two times the guy used non-OEM parts. On trouble spot like this, I wouldn't cheap out because the labour is long and expensive. I couldn't do it myself because I didn't have access to a bearing press.
Petroleum based gear oil has a very strong sulfur smell. Never spill even a single drop of it on the carpet or cloth seats inside the vehicle, because the vehicle will smell like sulfur until you rip out the carpet or seat. Synthetic gear oil is virtually odorless. If the differential requires the expensive synthetic oil, do not fill it with the much cheaper gear oil made from petroleum, because you will shorten the life of the very expensive differential gears and bearings. It won't fail immediately, but it will fail sooner than with the fully synthetic gear oil. If you have over 100,000 miles on the vehicle, and one side starts to leak, you might as well change both seals while you are at it. The seals don't cost much. If you do one side & refill the differential with expensive synthetic oil, and then the other side starts leaking, you can reuse the oil unless you see more than a few metal particles in it. You see those in the oil, & you have bearing or gear chipping problems. A flake or two is fine, but not hundreds of them. Videos on RU-vid will show you how to do it & the tools you will need. It is a messy job, and not a lot of fun without a lift. Be SURE to have the vehicle on solid level surface with the front wheel blocked and the rear resting on jack stands. It falls while you are under it with the rear wheels off, and you are probably dead. That would be bad.
This seems to be more of a problem with this era of Tacomas and 4Runners from the late 90s/early 2000s. I had a 2000 4Runner that needed inner and outer rear axle seals and drum brake shoes around 120,000 miles and again around 175,000 miles.
IDK!?, my 25 yr old Taco has 271k miles onit in the midWest salt belt... i was able to remove the seized powdercoated drums that the Toyota ASE mechanic in Illinois TRIED and tried everything to remove them to check the parking brake assy that was getting a bit crusty and seized on the driver side. I could not detect any gear oil leak or brake fluid from the wheel cylinder. but perhaps i did not readily know what i was looking at?
I did the seals on my Tacoma recently. All things considered its not too bad of a job. Drum brakes are always kind of a pain. If you live in the rust belt probably going to be replacing the rear brake line. My seals actually looked kind of okay. (the little spring in the seal was just hanging out in the axle) but the rest of the seal was in place and looked like it should have been doing its job. I replaced the breather a couple years ago it was plugged up bad. My theory is my seals were actually fine but while it was plugged up the gear oil made its way past and into the bearing. Replacing the breather pretty much solved the issue but the bearing kept spraying and leaking oil out onto the drum brakes. That's my theory anyways.
As soon as I saw that spray pattern on the rim I knew... axle seal. Missed a BENT rear axle when I bought an old taco, thought it was just out of balance tires... nope. New half shaft and seal and bearing, not fun when you're trying to leave for Christmas vacation in a week lol.
I'm surprised you can sniff that gear oil so much. The stuff I'm used to stinks to high hell and the whole shop too. Maybe it's not synthetic. Make sure you check the bearing too because that gear oil could wash out all the grease and it runs dry. As for the seal, you don't know if it was stuck and recently freed by the last oil change place. But also, they are sensitive to pop out when you do rear diff upgrades when you need to slide the axles out some. And yes, I have had to clean off greasy rims before and it is not fun AT ALL. Don't wear anything you want to keep clean..
yes, the Toyota monkeys in my area do NOT check this part on routine service apparently.. not sure why other than lazy or ignorance... my rig's breather was fairly crusted over when i first heard this is an issue could blow the seals and hobbled myself underneath to check onit and then wrench a new one onit
This is unrelated to this video but who better to ask than you so I can only hope you indulge me. I bought a 2005 GX470 and would like to do quite a bit of maintenance and repair. Im looking for a repair manual like Haynes just for reference. I dont find one available for the GX470! Am I blind or is it so close to the 4 runner that they dont make one specifically for the GX470. Thanks in advance!
Basically the same mechanically except for the T case being manual vs electric. Physically obvious differences in size, deadening, seating (number and material). But mechanical, same. Unless you don't get the 4r in ltd as those don't have rear AC..
@@alansexton7 Have you tried to prepay and order from parts stores? That one is well written, but if you must, used FSMs from fleabay can be had for a premium at $250 for the three part series.
My story is about a Chevy, but..................... I had a shop install a posi unit in my rear differential so at the same time, I had them rebuild the yoke and reseal both sides of the axle too. No sense doing this twice.
@@captainamericaamerica8090 He used to reply in the early days. Now it is too much time for him to back and forth message. If there is a big question he will answer in the next video he films.
TY,,,,,,WOW incredible very interesting super kool ,1st class great info.,, AAAAAAAAAAA++++++++++++ again great video I liked it a lot ,keep up the great work.
Nope, not really. Once there is an escape route for the pressure on one side, it usually does not build enough pressure to cause the other side to leak.
I wonder this also. Because, I thought maybe 1.2 hours per seal. Brake job, both sides. probably complete diff service and cleaning down at the self serve car wash?
@@efil4kizum I would say yes but he could defer it unless he gives him labor included now. The oil is thinner than the bearing grease and would push it out. Usually the bearing goes out soon after. Personally if a few hours is going to be added on at $100/hr or so, I would say I will do the cleaning. Even on the low end at $75/hr a few hours would save a few hundred.
I think the sticker he was referring to is the maintenance sticker which shows the date & mileage for the timing belt change, along with his business name.
I want to open a small, one person shop just like yours. Do you ever get any issues from customers for not having a tire mounting or balancing machine? Tires don't interest me at all.
Maybe has and maybe not. Maybe you can friend with someone nearby who has a machine and help each other. Otherwise, if you are in the country, you might have to drive it to your tire guy and charge the customer for doing it for him. You have to remember the extra storage you need to do tires.
