Thanks for your video, very helpful. However, I did notice an Error in your Timing Belt Belt Static position. The Intake Cam gear Timing marks need to be aligned with the T marks (for Timing) on the backplate of the VVTi Timing sprockets. This is the correct required position of the timing belt/timing gears prior to removal of the timing belt. This alignment allows the the Timing Belt to be removed without the Timing Sprockets/VVTI GEARS TO Spring back (Counter Clockwise) as you remove the timing belt. The "T" mark on the back of the timing sprockets makes it MUCH easier to remove and reinstall the new timing belt. Thanks so much for your videos.
Thanks for the tip about installing the tensioner loosely. I was really dreading that step of the process, but the loose tensioner really did the trick! I had the belt on and lined up in 5 minutes. I installed the belt over the tensioner pulley last, which was a breeze with the extra "wiggle room". Great tip!
Just bought 2000 Tundra 4.7 timing belt never changed, 223,000 Kms (138.000 miles) on it. Watched several videos and none so far mentioned the crank marks as you did. Thank you.
For the DIY'ers out there, the "T" casting is there for a reason. At TDC, one of the cam lobes on the L cam will either be at or near the top of the lobe causing the cam to jump either backwards or forwards a few teeth if you just breathe on it (this is the nature of VVTI) Advancing the assembly to the white dot on the timing cover/"T" mark on the cam housing (with the damper still on) will put the rocker on a flatter profile of the cam reducing the chance of the cam from jumping, but it can still jump. If the cam does jump, DO NOT rotate completely around, especially on VVTI engines. You cannot use a sprocket tool either. I used the old T belt as a strap wrench to rotate the cam counter clockwise as it jumped about 6 teeth forward. This is a tough job guys, take your time with it. The VVTI is not an interference engine until the cams are advanced by the computer.
Love all your videos!!! German technicians are the best. So do you recommend always replacing tensioner & idler pullies or are you doing it cuz its high miles?
Very informative video. I really wish you had the time to film the whole thing. There are other videos out there, but I really enjoy the pace you work and your thorough explanations during the job. I have a 2006 Tundra. I believe you said this was an ‘05. For ‘05 and ‘06, the service manual says to rotate the crankshaft 50 degrees from TDC before removing the belt. Any thoughts on this recommendation? I’ve never done a timing belt, so I’m looking for all the info I can find. Thanks so much.
Flyabus i know this response is late but it may be informative. I’m currently replacing the water pump and timing belt on an 05 sequoia. Regarding the 50 degree advance, i believe it is to eliminate the ‘jump’ in the camshaft as happened in this video. When the cams are at TDC there is a tendency for the cam to rotate. Putting it to the 50 degree (25 for the cams) eliminates the tendency. Not sure if the procedure is specific to the VVT as shown. Hope it helps.
@@bigfatdavebigfatdave7395 Thanks for your video, very helpful. However, I did notice an Error in your Timing Belt Belt Static position. The Intake Cam gear Timing marks need to be aligned with the T marks (for Timing) on the backplate of the VVTi Timing sprockets. This is the correct required position of the timing belt/timing gears prior to removal of the timing belt. This alignment allows the the Timing Belt to be removed without the Timing Sprockets/VVTI GEARS TO Spring back (Counter Clockwise) as you remove the timing belt. The "T" mark on the back of the timing sprockets makes it MUCH easier to remove and reinstall the new timing belt. Thanks so much for your videos.
Wow, that’s really great work! Does the 5.7, 2013 tundra engine have a belt also, or does it use a chain? If it’s a chain, how often does that need to be done? Thanks for posting!
When do you remove the pin from the hydraulic tensioner? After rotating the engine using the wrench? I assume you hand rotated the crankshaft 1 turn, then confirmed the cams still lined up with the indexing marks. If your rotated a second turn, would the painted marks, on the new belt, also line up? Thanks.
I wouldn't do this without full tension on the belt. If everything lines up (markings) then pull the pin before rotating the engine by hand. The belt will jump a tooth if the belt isn't tight enough. If you're still a tooth off, you can still remove the piston and compress it in a vice and reinsert the pin.
Besides, the timing belt and water pump, what other parts would you recommend replacing while doing this maintenance? Also what would a shop charge me for something like this? Don't want to get over charge
Does the "Hydraulic Tensioner" operate off engine oil pressure? I did not see an journal. I guess it is self contained fluid under pressure. Did you use genuine Toyota parts?
As of 10:30 you still had the belt misaligned at the right sprocket (teeth on teeth instead of teeth in valleys). Who knows what you did from that point on, but if you pulled the pin like that... wow.
