Another important feature is torque multiplication. And often they are around 2.73:1 ratio. Which is a Little more significant than 2:1 in the example. Great cutaways to show operation.
I love this video…I’m about to take my transfer case off my XJ and rebuild that since I can feel chain vibration. This gives me a perfect example of what I’m about to see. Thank you! 🙌🏼
This was very informative! And really amazing how much abuse these TCs can take. My xj gets beat on hard and it amazes me how that chain and the gears transfer all the power to the front and rear and get me out of all those deep mud holes and up steep hills.
That is BW1354 Ford Ranger setup it has oil pump in it. Most of the time chain is still turning in 2H because it has no unlocking hub or they are locked in. Ranger for short time had Vacuum hubs but they took them out so everything sill be turning in T-case. Explorer had same setup but never used Vacuum hub they have disconnects on right side few years. But in the end they dumped that too so everything was left turning. Ford showed it only cost about .02 of a mph in fuel
@autotech4103 hi sir. Hello from Chicago. So transfer case actuator shift from 2hi to 4hi or to 4lo but what is the function of second actuator located in front differential. Trying to fix my sierra pickup truck
@@marekkrepa9982 the solenoid in the front differential engages and disengages the from axels. When they are disengaged the front driveshaft will not spin when the wheels are moving down the road.
@@autotech4103 got it! Now i understand how it works.You solved my problem and save me probably couple hundreds $.Thank you so much SIR and have a wonderful evening
Thanks, I wasn't sure if the chain constantly spins but now I see if the front drive shaft isn't spining then the chain stops too. I have manual locking hubs to allow greater flexibility and take better advantage of 4x4.
@@autotech4103 I also use low for pulling a trailer up ateep mountian roads at low(er) speed. Up/down with tight switchbacks using engine braking instead of my brakes. At the boat ramp I unlock drivers side hub and launch/retrieve in 4-low, if traction becomes an issue I jump out and lock the hub. Maybe it's not necessary to use low gear but I typically use 4-low as opposed to 4-high in most cases anyway, just unlock the drivers side hub when on pavement.
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 im sorry and thanks, could you explain "wind up" and why you unlock the drivers side manual hub while in 4 low at the boat ramp ?
Great visual on transfer case Operation, any idea how the steering angle affects modern transfer cases shifting in 4 low automatically when turning. Experiencing some T case issues myself and before i pull it out i was curious on the relation between my steering column and my transfer case
Turning and shifting to 4LO is definitely a weird one. I’d imagine it being an electrical issue. Not sure how anything in the tcase could cause it. What kind of vehicle?
Great explanation, my RAM 1500 except those 3 modes have also 4-Auto mode which in my conclusion operates most of the time on 2 rear wheel drive (2 High) but can enable front wheels in case of loosing grip(4 High). I drive on this mode all the time which means the chain is not moving by 99,9% of time. Does it mean it is not lubricating upper part of transfer case? Maybe I should change mode to 4 Hi or 4 Low from time to time?
Can you shift from 4 high to 2 high at full throttle safely or does it only work at lower rpms? I use 4 high to launch at the drag strip but doesn't the 4 high slow the drivetrai down overall? I was wondering could I switch to 2 high after 2nd gear and it be okay? I have a 2018 F150
Gears that are under acceleration don’t (or won’t) engage or disengage well. Finding a way to harness your power with the rear wheels sounds expensive but so does replacing transfer cases once a week.
If the chain is loose it can make a slapping noise as it hits the case. If a chain is really loose it will start to skip and your vehicle will shutter when you accelerate hard in 4WD
Good job sir I am a newbe at this I have a 245 j with a electric motor . I am not sure if that is what my problem is the motor that is ? Not sure how it works? I have a jeep commander 5.7 Hemi the button on in the cabin is suppose to put the transfer case in neutral it blinks but nothing is happening could that be the electric motor?:) if you have time please let me know. Texas. Near Dallas.
is it possible to have a problem in your transfer case that causes slipping and grinding while in 2wheel high? primarily in reverse and or high gears moving downgrade... I'm being told the problem is in my transfer case, however all my 4 wheel drive is working fine.
Awesome explanation!! I’m pretty sure my transfer case is on the front of the transmission. With that said, Any idea what the light rubbing sound around the transfer case area could be when I’m driving at low speeds and especially going around corners?
I'm working on a vehicle now. How is it that I have 4 low (with reverse) and the motor switches out of 4 Low, but there's no drive in 4 High or 4 Auto.
Hey, thanks for the question but I do not have any information available to me about mounting patterns for those two cases..............Finding someone online that has successfully made the switch would be your best bet
It locks the front axle shafts to the wheel assembly. The front wheels will then turn the axle shafts which will also spin the front driveshaft on most vehicles. No wheels will be driven by the transfer case, just all the gears in the differential will spin
How can you explain, other than "bad input shaft TC seal", the fluid can migrate from a automatic transmission into the TC?, talking about the olds TC with vacuum switch, maybe the vacuum plays a role in the issue?
On those old transfer cases the problem really isn’t the input seal but the vacuum switch. The vacuum switch is suppose to be sealed and not apply to the case of the t-case. The t-case vent gets sucked closed and pulls fluid by the output shaft of the transmission through the input shaft seal of the t-case. Replace the vacuum switch and the other problem may go away without seal change. Kinda a cool automotive problem……
Question. I was told in my 2001 Mitsubishi montero limited that the front driveshaft is always turning even in 2nd and it locks via the front diff. I have had the vehicle for over 75000 miles. Should I change the transfer case fluid? Thx
@@autotech4103 I just watched the video. That was really cool to see. I always wondered how it did it. So basically from what I seen and what you explained is the transfer case just disengages the planetary gear set. Really cool to see. Thank you for answering my question! You earned a sub!
This is a standard trans, the rear driveshaft will be spinning while being towed, the front driveshaft will be turning while being towed. In 2H the power from the rear spinning driveshaft will turn the output shaft of the trans. Because the trans I assume is in neutral the rest of the gears will not spin. The output shaft bearings will be spinning without lubrication so damage will occur. With the tcase in neutral the power will not spin the transmission output shaft
Hey Eroom, the oil pump in the transfer case is used to get oil into hard to lubricate oil such as the planetary gear set and the main shaft. Splash lubrication joins forces with the oil pump in these modern designs. I do not understand which clutches you are referring to? I haven't seen clutch packs in a transfer case but like anything prove me wrong. Muffler bearings do exist.
I just changed the oil in my mitsubishi transfer case and found a large chunk of metal on the magnet. It doesn't appear to be a tooth (seems quite soft). Any idea what could break off inside the case? Getting ready to refurbish it regardless.
I’ll make a video in the coming days as I should have a couple AWD vehicles in the shop next week. Think about it as a differential between the front and rear driveshafts. When there is slippage in the driveshafts the AWD transfer case attempts to match the two shaft speeds. This keeps all wheels driving at the same speed.
I have a 2000 ford ranger that will shift and operate in 2 high and 4high , but when shifted into 4 lo there is a repetitive clunking noise while in 4lo operation . Would you have any ideas why? It is a new to me used truck and I’m slowly learning more about its engineering . So far I have been hesitant to run it in 4 lo to see if the knock / clunk goes away , not wanting to get stuck in 4 lo permanently . Any advice would be highly appreciated .
4low is often difficult to shift into and out of. Make sure the transmission is in neutral when shifting into 4low or creeping slowly ahead. I would guess your clunking is it trying to engage still. Does it drive at a very slow speed when 4low is selected?
Thanks for your reply . I enjoyed your video on the transfer case operation , it helped me to understand the mechanical operation in action . I grew up with a 78 Toyota landcruiser that was virtually indestructible mechanically, but unfortunately the gas consumption was not realistic economically this day and age . As I have been reading more about the ford equipment , there is a whole cornicopia of procedures for the mousetrap to engage .such as clutch sensors , brake sensors , gem computer units as well as a transfer case motor that controls the shifting mechanism ,not to mention puh pneumatic hubs . I have also noticed a few loose wires behind the dash , and near the pedals . Guess it’s time to des if er some wiring diagrams . The joys of owning a new used vehicle . Thanks again from a backyard wrench @@autotech4103
On most transfer cases the actuator is on the outside. You should be able to feel it move when activated or you could measure the current to verify the motor is turning. Internal problems won’t be realized until it is taken apart.
Turning with a vehicle in 4WD can be difficult. Some vehicles are much worse than others. You could also be dealing with a limited slip differential that is locking while cornering because of clutch issues. 4Low is the same as 4Hi except the gear ratio.
@@autotech4103 thanks, I have a 2010 Jeep JK that is making a mechanical noise like an intermittent chatter in 2WD when additional torque is applied and was trying to narrow it down. I think I have a bad rear driveshaft or maybe the chain is loose or a bearing is bad. All are expensive so I'm trying to get it right the first time.
I have some vibration coming from under my feet going around 65mph. Jeep dealership just replaced the transfer case too. So, it's a new issue after they installed it. In 4Hi the vibration is really bad and has a grinding noise when I left off the gas. If i'm to assume the transfer case they installed was installed wrong or a lemon, what components would be causing vibrations and grinding noise?
The first thing I would do is pop under the vehicle and make sure the Tcase mounting bolts are not loose. Does the vibration only happen when your foot is on the accelerator or does it vibrate while coasting too?
@@autotech4103 when I’m at constant speed around 65mph. When in 4hi at 45mphnits vibrating bad and then making this buzz/grind sound when i let off the gas
Vibrations can come from any driveline components that are loose or damaged but it’s usually a seized u-joint on the driveshaft. If we assume the transfer case is the issue the grinding when you let off could be a loose or skipping chain. I would rule out the driveshafts soon in case they fly apart. A lot of damage will occur when a drive shaft or tcase comes off going down the highway
@@autotech4103 definitely not drive shafts. I even took the rear one completely off and drove in 4hi to verify. They’ve been taken off multiple times and retorqued. This only started happening after jeep put in a new transfer case. They keep saying they are waiting on a “special tool” to come in so they can run diagnostics on the transfer case. I’m like “just freaking replace it”
I drive a 06 h4 hummer. It's all time all wheel drive. But I can put in 4hi as well as 4low. So with my truck. Does the transfer case work 24/7 being I don't have an option to go 2wheel drive. I'm asking because I test it out alot to make sure it's working and every time I put In 4hi. Only way to disengage fully. I have to back up and turn left and or right and listen for the click to let me know its fully disengage. I read the manual and it says that's normal some times. Why can't it just disengage the same way this example did. You didnt back up one time to disengage. Fyi I did have it rebuilt due to plastic shift fork going bad. Now it has the metal shift fork. Otherwise if I don't back up it whines. I'm only asking because I rarely actually use those buttons. I thought the transfer case is working and moving all the time. Never knew it only works when your using 4hi or 4low.
Correct me if I’m wrong but the 4hi and 4low options are “lock” options. This allows your differentials to lock for extra sticky situations. The backing up is required to get both front and rear differentials as well as the transfer case switched fully. Since your Hummer is always in 4WD it’s not really a downside. If you get stuck you can put it in a 4WD lock position and then disengage afterwards. Good on you for shifting it as routine maintenance. Transfer cases do get sticky, especially in 4WD low.
@@autotech4103 you need to work for GM...............😲😲😲😲😲😕😕😕😕✊🏿✊🏿✊🏿✊🏿✊🏿👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿. Why the hell they couldn't explain it like that for me. Im thinking something has to be wrong. Why do i have to always back up. Even when I switch back into regular all time 4wheel drive. And you just explained it very well. A second grader would understand. Thanks sir. And yes it does get stuck alot. Which is why every so often I mess around with it.
@@autotech4103 I was hoping you said no. But I understand why. Its because it's all time all wheel drive. If it was like the diagram. Than I could keep in two wheel drive and not worry about wear and tear as much. But I don't have that option. Thanks for the education on my system. I will be getting fluid changed Monday. I've already changed front and rear differential fluid. Only things lift is transmission filter and fluid change and transfer case change. Thanks again.
The transfer cases your speaking of were from older vehicles. The modern electric motor and shift forks are very forgiving as long as your are not accelerating while you shift. The older floor shifter styles are able to be shifted on the fly into 4H for the most part but only at slow speeds and deceleration.
@@autotech4103 I just watched another video who explains it incredibly well, maybe you mentioned it and I didn't notice, but he mentions that you can shift into 4Hi and 2HI no problem since theres a synchronizer, but low and high don't have one, meaning you have to stop. all trucks I've driven made in the past 10 years required you to stop to shift though
Locking differentials don’t have much to do with transfer case. I assume you are asking about locking differentials that you can lock by a switch from the drivers seat. They use mainly air or electric to “lock” your two axel side gears together so they turn as one. Locking your differential takes away from your ability to have wheels turn at different speeds making cornering almost impossible. Locking differentials that are switched from the drivers seat are good for off road machines for gaining traction in a straight line. Differentials with limited slip do pretty much the same thing but do it automatically when you start to lose traction. Limited slip are meant for on road vehicles wanting to gain traction.
Some mistake.... You should NOT use 4Lo in manoeuvring a trailer in "tight spot" for most (if not all) T Cases. Reason is 4Lo is (in those majority T Cases) a mode with central locking, meaning both propeller shafts are at the exact same speed. Try a tight turn (say lock-to-lock on the steering) with the central lock. Will either force wheels to slip hardly or damage something.
Ah, good question. This transfer case doesn't have that option but essential it can be achieved by adding a clutch pack that engages when there is a difference in output speed between the front driveline and rear driveline. Similar to a limited slip differential.....
@@jessekling1865 most auto systems switch the pressure on a clutch pack in the transfer case to engage the front driveshaft when it has a certain amount of slippage compared to the rear driveshaft. A small motor usually spins to tighten or loosen the clutch pack. But all systems are different. This particular t-case does not have auto mode.
Howdy. I try to to transfer from 4x4 to 4x2..first. If knew b4 how complicated electronic control.of 4x4 is aI would not do it and also I do not recomend to make 4x2 to 4x4 because it is not going to be full 4x4 anyway. Everything is on and boom speedometer ain't no working. Think 'cause ECM ain't getting no signal from T-case position sensor/switch. So i think I have to plug in sensor/switxh with 4x2 mode. Q is how this sensor worx? What is touchin', where 's located? I see you do understand those thingx. Thnx You can email me at lapsoo at gmail
Your transfer case would have a VSS vehicle speed sensor at the tail shaft where the transfer case attached to the rear drive shaft. If you have removed the t-case then you will need a VSS in your transmission. Did you use the same transmission? If so, I believe you need a rear housing for a 2WD trans.
@@autotech4103 thnx for gr8 advice! I bought rebuilt 2wd tranny and he did not put there reluctor wheel on output shaft. I had to buy new one 'cause output shaft diameter is smaller than on T-case. But you help me =) thnx
