i never replaced the crush washer on the acura's oil pan either, and i never had a problem w/ it, but i did see it go wrong on a silverado brake caliper once. the new caliper was missing one, so we re-used an old one. it leaked. a lot. previous owner of my current car's apparent workaround was apparently to run the plug in w/ a damned impact driver, because i almost broke my wrist trying to get it out of there. this time, i did finally relent and buy the pack of crush washers, and i've still got one on standby for the next fluid change
Thanks for watching and sharing your experience! I didn't replace the one on my 2003 Accord for years either. No problem. I did replace it once just because I was in the mood. Lol.
Hello there sir and thank you for the video that is some very valuable information! Please be wary of using those jack stands though as project farm has released a video demonstrating and displaying why those jack stands are deadly 😮 I've never used it myself I have some AutoZone duralast ones I trust.
Thanks a lot for your comment! I totally value your concern. Yes, I did see the review from Project Farm. I've had these for over 8years, and I've never had reason to doubt them. My take is that my routine use is not in any way close to the torture tests that Project Farm puts on tools, so these work well for my use case. The brand I have is from a UK manufacturer though, so it should definitely meet quality standards.
@@DIYAutoworksNG Hey no problem! As long as you're safe working underneath your car that's all that matters! We don't need any more people getting crushed. Thank you for the informative videos
Hi I really need an advoice, I bought a 2013 Honda Accord 2.4 with 104000 miles on it. I chcecked the carfax but I couldn't find anything regards to the Transmission oil change. If it has never done until now, do you think is it good or bad to change the transmisson oil now? Can you please give me you opinion on this
It really depends. I don't think it's too bad, Honda recommends 90k miles for the 1st transmission fluid change. That said, if there's significant wear, a fluid change can expose problems. If unsure, some have made sure the drain pan is spotless and then the old fluid kept, should the tranission start slipping, the old fluid is returned.
@@sgomez8194 haha that’s great! I actually went ahead and changed mine at 70k. I don’t think it had been done before. Better gas mileage too and buttery smooth as well!
You mean 15ft/lbs on a torque wrench? Wish I could reply with a picture! It may be better if you find images online or look for a video on how to use a torque wrench.
Thanks for showing these. Are these CVT fluids interchangeable or universal? My Ford uses CVT as well and though it's still clean (I check regularly and not as dirty as this), I couldn't find the one recommended by Ford but got Castrol CVT fluid. Please any advice? Also, we'll like a follow up video or any performance difference of the transmission after this change and naija tips to maintain CVT transmission
Thanks for watching! CVT fluids have specs and are not universal, even though some fluid manufacturers claim to make some fluids that meet the specs of multiple car brands. Just given how delicate CVTs are I'd be on the side of trying your best to use the manufacturer's fluid. Does the Castrol list the spec for your car? I will still change the transmission filter on this car and then give an update.
I drained the old fluid and added 3.9 quarts and when I cracked the check bolt I had almost a full quart come out. Im sure that I got most of the old fluid out so I added an extra quart to make sure it wasn’t low. I cracked the check bolt again and let it drain again until it was a steady drip. It’s shifting hard now. What should I do?
Were you on level ground? How many miles on the clock? Did you start the car and cycle through all the gears before loosening the check bolt? NB: You should spend around 30 seconds in each gear before you move to the next.
@@DIYAutoworksNG I was on level ground and there’s 64,000 miles on it and I have no idea if it was ever changed before me. But I screwed up the sequence and cracked the check bolt and let it drain before starting the car and cycling through the gears. I got paranoid that it was low so I added more fluid, hopped in the car, ran through the gears and opened the check bolt again and it was a steady drip but it’s still jerking and not shifting great unfortunately
I put some miles on it today and took it back to the garage just to check the fluid level. I cycled through the gears first then shut the car off and loosened the check bolt and I had a some splash out into the drip pan but no drip after that.
