The receiver battery is only power for the servos, it doesn’t have anything to do with the glow plug lighting up. The starting wand is just powering the glow plug and starter motor
Great video. I just broke in a new Dynamite .19T in mine today. The 3.3 was getting pretty low on compression. The .19T is advertised as a direct replacement for the 3.3, but the throttle linkage requires a bit of fussing around with to work right, and the stock Traxxas header pipe doesn't fit the Dynamite very well. Leaked fuel all over my nice clean truck. Cleaned it up tonight and added high temp gasket maker to seal it up. When this engine is getting tired, I think I'll put another 3.3 in it. Nice place you've got. Looks like a lot of fun to run trucks, heli's, and planes.
I’ve had my revo for years …the reciever pack has nothing to do with the glow ignition system only the ez start wand powers the glow plug when starting….look at the circuitry bud
Picking one of these up today that the guy bought new a year ago and never ran it. Really looking forward to working with it. I am mainly a comp crawler guy buy I wanted to try something different.
I'm late to the party! But wanted to add that I enjoy your video. All engines are different, but I found that following the manual then feeling out my engine after break in point works best. Never had any issues. My Jato 3.3 gave me the most patience. T-Maxx & Revo 3.3 were the easiest. Depending on the temp and humidity I MIGHT have to make adjustments. But mostly never since break in. I see all these comments from experts and I'm nowhere near one or even had half the issues. It's what works best for you and your truck that matters. The book is there for a reason. Especially for those who have never ran one. I like how you've put your experience aside from another brand or heli to address your Revo. THAT is experience. As well as patience. Gonna check out your other videos!
great video Sam i have the same color revo 3.3 i been burning out glow plugs after 4 minutes run i can feel the engine is every hot once it cuts off and burning the plug i will check my temps next time but what is good rance u say 200 degree? also i did 4 turns out on high speed needle do u think i need to do bit more turn on that i stopped using it due to glow plug ever run
I like my nitro engines running at 200-215 degrees. I've done a lot of nitro heli flying. With some guys that know. The most important thing is where you measure temperature. We would always check the back plate on the crankcase for temps on a heli. Head temps are way hotter. And the cooling fin sizes vary. A better indicator is rpm's, sound and the exhaust smoke. Need a good smoke trail. Start rich, however many turns out that is, lean it until the rpm's come up. But don't go for maxed out screaming rpm's. Sounds tinny. Rich has a blubbering sound. Lean it until it just cleans up, you got most of the rpm's and power you're going to get. It will last way longer running on the rich side...
Btw my maxx in my 3.3 loves 230-255f all day long.. and throttle should be snappy to be pulling wheelies.. I think yours is running bit too rich… I was told too rich loads the engine up too much and I’ve had glow plugs get fouled from it.. what fuel you using? Orange is Byron Race gen 2 I think.. mine is purple (VP PowerMaster Basher blend… 20% nitro with 14% synthetic/castor oil blend.. super easy to tune and and great running with long life… higher oil contents offer longer engine life, cooler running, make the engine sound a little smoother/softer, make the engine softer to respond a little, make them load up a little, easier to tune with, and add bit more mess to clean up.. lower oil content makes the engine run hotter, run cleaner, sound “raspier”/racy, clean out better so they don’t load up, run crisper, need more skill tuning as the safe window is smaller/tighter, and since it’s less oil the engine will have a shorter lifespan compared fo basher blends (race blends have even less oil in them compared to sport snd a lot less compared to basher blends.. in an effort to get maximum performance from the engine since serious racers don’t care if the engine doesn’t last all season as they’re out there to get an edge and race fuels often have a VERY small window with running too rich and too lean with perfection being literally being as wide as a human hair under a microscope)… hope your Revo there gives you a fun and long life as she looks and sounds great to me
Personal after a days running, which is usually 5 tanks, but the battery could do a lot more, but it's not worth the risk. I have a jato 3.3 so a tank is about 25 minutes
I just picked up a revo 3.3 two days ago. Im currently on my 3rd tank for break in and im realizing I should have picked up more than a quart of fuel. What fuel do you use or recommend ? None of my hobby shops around me carry top fuel and I don't want to pay for shipping.
I always felt that a quality brand fuel is safe for all model engines. I buy 20% nitro, 12% oil fuel for my helis firstly. And run it in all my two stroke model engines. And never had a problem. I don't buy into a special fuel for trucks, boats or small engines. Run it in my Cox engines too. That's just me tho...
1: DO NOT tune ANY trx engines (2.5 and 3.3) according to their operating temperature… each engine is unique, and each engine has a temp it likes… just watch how it behaves and runs with each time you tune and tune in small to tiny increments.. DO NOT rush tuning snd don’t do it too early while engine is warming up (it’s ok if engine shows one sign overheating as long as it keeps outputting that stream of blue smoke that’s your indicator it should be getting enough oil and fuel to keep her happy for a long life…) 2: tuning for maximum performance every time you run it is not required unless you’re crazy chasing for that ultimate tune or speed run.. if the engine is running fine, and the performance is good enough for you.. you don’t have to tune it… really high end engines like the O.S. .21TM engine only need tuning once or very little and once set they can go FOREVER! But that engine is not only very powerful (I’ve seen and heard those with trx2.5 powered models (besides the revo which was first one to offer and use the blue headed trx 2.5 engine as it was a brand new model with the engine too as standard and only power option for it), you WILL need an upgraded driveline (steel CVD axles, steel or aluminum gears in transmission or simplify the transmission with a single speed and or forward only conversion.. less moving parts in transmission and or are stronger made work.. because that O.S. engine is a full out competition ready engine and about the meanest you can drop into any Traxxas nitro powered model without any custom parts) they are still sought after, hard to find (no longer made in large numbers), are VERY expensive ($250-$400 depending on seller), and take a LOOOONNNGG time to break in (I hear they take 10 tanks or maybe even 1/4-1/2 gallon of fuel)… but if you have one of those engines you know how much of a delight they are and how special they are… Traxxas engines do run well (not the best compared to O.S. Which I’ve never owned) they do benefit from good care and maintain them well, do not change your fuel (the nitro content you can but if you go up in nitro content be ready to do a gentle rebreak in of 1-2 tanks, and maybe make needle richer too then return to see how it is… and when you run higher nitro you cannot and should not EVER plan on going back to a lesser nitro content, the engine won’t like it at all… also when choosing a fuel pick a brand and blend you can not only readily get but stick with it.. different brands use different oil contents and percentages, and same for nitro content… choose one and stick with it for the entire life of your engine) … then it’ll last a long time… and after rub maintenance I recommend using “after run oil” after every time you’re done running your model for the day (it’ll start easer, run better, store longer, won’t gum up, and preserve the engine’s internals from rust)… I’ve been in nitro since June 21 2005 I learned all this stuff from friends and mostly myself as I was a noob.. I can give a few pointers on nitro and electric models (I only use surface/drive)
The Traxxas website says 40mph+ for the T-maxx, 45mph+ for the Revo 3.3 Nickel worth of difference to me, go for looks. Revo 3.3 might have a better suspension I would think...
@@chilly7261 yeah you're right. I think the revo would be a better buy. I'll mostly be on dirt as well. I have a vxl 2wd Traxxas but the nitros are so cool and I gotta have 1 lol
@@chilly7261 Yeah I been comparing them side by side and revo does look nicer. I think I'll pull the trigger on one lol. Thanks for your input. BTW I subbed.
I own both and that isn’t true. Depending on tuning it could be but same engine etc weight difference goes to the revo, better suspension also revo. Revo is faster with similar tuning and fuel.
@@YoungTattedX jato ALL THE WAY! just redid my trans lost my integy aluminum gearbox to a bad bearing welded itself in there..new trx 2.5 will be broken in this weekend just waiting on a few more new parts..redid my whole jato..me and my buddy walk all over battery vehicles tmaxx revo..seriously fast ....mostly bc people cant drive them cause they cant handle them
