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Triumph Distributor Reclock (TR6 or Similar) part 2 of 2 of vacuum advance addition.  

DIY Help
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Part two to my vacuum advance video. In order for the tach cable to attach and work smoothly you need to RE clock distributor one notch counter clockwise. This shows me doing that process. The pedestal often has shims to raise it so it clears the gear by .005 inches. Mine didn’t but I show it’s not binding so I left it alone. Tr4. TR5. Tr250. Tr6.
In order for the gear to drop back down to correct height the slot in the bottom has to align with the oil pump gear below it. Three ways to get there. One, raise rear right tire by itself and put car in fourth gear and have someone jog the tire forward until the gear drops down. Two, take a 1/2 inch bolt and cut a slit on the bottom and insert into the hole and manually turn the oil pump. Trial and error until it aligns. Third, which is what I did but probably not the best way was I pulled the engine fan to turn the Engine. I did one complete revolution watching my white paint on the gear took it came around to original position and it dropped down on its own with no problems.

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12 июл 2023

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Комментарии : 15   
@jamesthomas4080
@jamesthomas4080 11 месяцев назад
Thank you so much for posting this. I've been putting this job off for quite a while, ever since I replaced the broken tach cable and didn't like how tight the bend on it was. Now I know exactly what to do, plus a couple of tips for cross checking as I go.
@DIYHelp
@DIYHelp 11 месяцев назад
I had same problem. I was hesitant thinking it would never run again. LOL. Really not that big of a deal. My tach is super smooth now.
@jamesthomas4080
@jamesthomas4080 10 месяцев назад
I got it done over the weekend and the car is running much better now, and of course the tachometer cable is happier too. I originally missed the part at 7:20 where you said you turned the engine to get the gear to seat down all the way. But because of your measuring stick advice I knew it was not right so I rewatched the video. Once I did a revolution of the motor the gear just dropped fully into place. Thank you again so much for this video!!!@@DIYHelp
@DIYHelp
@DIYHelp 10 месяцев назад
@@jamesthomas4080 good news. Normally I would of just jogged the rear right wheel until it fell in place but that requires an assistant. My problem is I had my car up on all four wheels off ground and you can’t move drive unless the rear left wheel is fixed on ground and out in fourth gear. My tach is finally smooth also.
@leeblock3379
@leeblock3379 9 месяцев назад
Thanks for posting this. Very clear and explained perfectly. Now, lets see if I can do it. I've watched several of your vids and also bought a Quick Jack because of that video.
@DIYHelp
@DIYHelp 9 месяцев назад
Quick jack was my biggest mistake ever. What I mean is I wish I would of gotten ten years earlier. I use that thing all the time. Recently I double rubber blocked it for the welder and I got the mounts about three feet off the ground. Made it easy to repair differential. For extended lifts of days I do use four standard jack stands front and rear at the appropriate jack points for more support of frame to avoid warping.
@robertharrison9248
@robertharrison9248 8 месяцев назад
What do you consider the correct points on the frame to place the jack stands for long term work on the car?@@DIYHelp
@DIYHelp
@DIYHelp 8 месяцев назад
There is a picture that floats around the forums showing green and red dots. You want the jack stands on the green dots. I briefly show the picture in my QUICKJACK video. Basically you stay away from the frame rail wings under the doors. Stands go near the front and rear wheel locations. Find the picture. Usually you can download it.
@novakenss
@novakenss 3 месяца назад
Today I just installed the Zenith Stromberg carbs I rebuilt on my friend's '74 TR6. I told him to buy the vacuum advance can and I'd put it on. I had to advance the distributor way past where the tach cable reaches for it to run well without the stupid vac retard can connected. I did wonder how I would change the position and presto, I found your great video showing exactly how to do this. Now I'm ready to rip that sucker out and add the vac advance can and time it. Thank you and excellent video with close ups and good lighting and no loud music. Well done.
@DIYHelp
@DIYHelp 3 месяца назад
Great. Go slow and steady. It’s very difficult to mess things up that are not reversible with these cars. Vacuum advance for sure makes car run better.
@novakenss
@novakenss 3 месяца назад
@@DIYHelp I'm glad I marked the flange and the tooth with white marker. It wasn't easy moving back one gear tooth. It kept going 2 teeth. The I reached down deep with some long nose pliers and turned the oil pump and then the gear dropped into place with only one tooth CCW. Worked great. Perfect advance curve now and the vacuum advance works well too. Thank you again.
@robertharrison9248
@robertharrison9248 8 месяцев назад
I understand why you want to rotate the drive gear one tooth to allow the tachometer cable to align and function correctly, but is there some reason why the drive gear placed in proper orientation per the manual that would causes the distributor to be rotated to far clockwise?
@DIYHelp
@DIYHelp 8 месяцев назад
My condition was simply caused by a change. I removed my retard vacuum and installed a advance vacuum unit. This is considered an upgrade. Once I reset my timing USING vacuum not my worn out damper. The distributor is clocked to far for the tach cable to fit. So I Reclock one tooth to fix that. It’s a part of the directions from British Vacuum.
@robertharrison9248
@robertharrison9248 8 месяцев назад
Appreciate the reply, I did not know about British Vacuum. It sounds like it has been an improvement in drive-ability for you. I recently had my 73 TR6 distributor rebuilt by Advanced Distributor with mechanical advance, they will not rebuild to original specs with the vacuum retard and say no vacuum connection. Not sure if I am happy with the results without the vacuum connected, idle is not steady and throttle response on low rpm seems sluggish, so the drive-ablility seems not as good. Thanks. @@DIYHelp
@DIYHelp
@DIYHelp 8 месяцев назад
he rebuilt mine too and charged me quite a bit to rebuild my "retard". That was a mistake but I didn't know back then. The recommended first upgrade is to simply "plug" the retard vacuum line and then retune your car with this not active at all. Your car will run fine but again you have to return - idle/vacuum/perhaps mixture. Retard vacuum is mostly working at idle. Advance vacuum is Zero at idle and only kicks in at higher rpms. 2nd upgrade would be to replace with the vacuum advance like the earlier cars. Idle and general driveability did improve noticeably.@@robertharrison9248
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