Hi Chris, I'm glad to see your project progressing! A couple quick notes... I don't think you mentioned them in this video, but boticed you had large washers and nuts securing the cylinder sleeves in the block. That's particularly important before turning the crank, because the piston movement can move the sleeve, breaking the seal at the figure 8 gasket underneath and causing a coolant leak into the sump! (Don't ask me how I know! 🙄) Your installation of the plug at the rear of the engine was "by the book". Some race engine builders go a step further after that plug is in, cleaning the area thoroughly and then putting some high temp epoxy in the recess to help insure the plug can't pop out (dumping all the engine oil onto the flywheel and clutch). Regarding the several bolts for the front engine plate that pass through to the oil galley behind... in addition to the thread sealant you used, there are copper crush washers that can be used to seal those particular bolts. If I recall correctly, there also are a couple of different length bolts used and care must be taken to not bottom the longer ones out in some of the blind holes. There also may have been pan heqd, slotted screws used in the aluminum block, to prevent over-torquing that might strip the threads. I'm just going from memory though, so may be wrong about these last two points. It sure will be fun to see it all back together and running soon! Cheers!
Thanks, Alan. I didn't find any copper washers on the front engine plate and I verified that with the spare parts catalog. However, you are correct about different length and types of bolts.
@roundtailrestoration HI again, Chris. FWIW, I just checked Elin Yakov's videos and found he mentions those copper washers in his '64 TR4 playlist from about a year ago (the pale yellow TR4), Part 14, about 6:50 minutes into the video. He identifies at least two of the front cover perimeter bolts where he uses copper washers to seal against leaks. (I thought there were more, but paused the video... will go back and watch the rest to see.) According to him, another copper washer (which I forgot) goes on the pedestal that supports the center of the front engine cover. I don't know why the various parts suppliers don't show those copper washers. The thread sealant you used will probably do the job as well or better. Incidentally, this remonded me of some TRivia. The front engine/timing chain covers of the TR4, TR3 came from the faactory with a crude blob of "something" in the center. It looked like Bondo or seam sealer slathered on 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick, then painted over. That's othen missing now, removed by previous rebuilders, but I've seen it on several engines in the past. To my knowledge, no one has ever given a good explanation for it... perhaps it was some sort of sound deadening. I don't know if car show judges look for it and deduct points when it's missing, if someone is striving for serious originality. I do know it's NOT on my TR4's timing chain cover (because I removed it many years ago).
Thanks, Alan. I do believe there may be a copper washer on the end of that chain tensioner "stalk". Definitely will study some more. Thanks, as always, for your help and reminders. Definitely more than once that I've gone back and checked and corrected things based on your comments!
Hi Chris, I've probably mentioned this before, but as much as I love Triumphs, this method of cam timing is so prehistoric! Even in the 1950's American engines had the crank and cam shafts marked with timing marks. British engineers should have figured out how to mark the timing spockets and chain to simply install them without going through this silly exercise. I understand that this is not a stock cam,but the makers of the cam should be able to easily create a premarked custom gear with the correct markings on it.
I think you're right, Michael. Coming from the factory, they have timing marks, but I don't think I've ever seen them for sale with them already on there. The workshop manual does provide a procedure if the marks are already there. One thing I do like about doing it the old way is you get to learn how the motor works, I think, if you're paying attention to how all the moving parts are choregraphed together. Thanks!
Lol. I had originally edited in really how cold it was, but I pulled it out figuring I'd look like a wimp. That last video set, putting the chain on, it was 23F down there when I got there and 29F by the time I left (running the jet heater). Comes with the territory, but that was a bit extreme!
Chris, there were a few times when we could see your breath in the shot so we had a bit of an idea that it was chilly down there (I’m north of you in Ontario, Canada), even with your jet heater running. Thanks for the great content!
@@victorpenner202 thanks, Victor. I'm ready for spring, tho I did get a bonus drive on 2/10, which was Drive Your Triumph Day. I did a quick vid of it.
@@roundtailrestoration, I saw your Drive a Triumph day video of your Spitfire and it made me jealous 😉. I had a red 66 Spitfire about 30 years ago and would love to get another in a few years to putter on when I retire.
Most of my parts, especially lately, have come from The Roadster Factory. Unfortunately, they had a catastrophic fire on Christmas morning that resulted in a 100% loss. So, now I am using Rimmers in England (horrible shipping costs, tho) and British Parts Northwest (rarely). I find Moss to be way overpriced and not of great quality. Losing the Roadster Factory is a horrible thing. I hope they rebuild and it looks like they are trying to do so.
And thank you for your comment. If you don't know, Rimmer's is having a ~17% off sale right now through this weekend (ends midnight England time on 1/28). Almost every Triumph part is on sale. If you need something, I'd take a look. You can probably get it cheaper from them even with the shipping and currency exchange costs then you can domestically.
Yeah, such a shame. I had a MG Midget when I was in high school (more years ago than I like to admit). I ordered parts from them for that car back then. Very sad.
If you really need a cam that is spot on, say for racing, buy a real large diameter degree wheel, get a book on HP Engine Blueprinting and learn a proper technique. With this method you might as well just use marks on crank sprocket and cam gear as in the manual. This is ok for a street motor but that's about it. There is so much more to this and all the information is available.
Thanks for your comment. I didn't have any existing marks and with an aftermarket cam, not sure it would have mattered. I followed Newnans procedure, so we'll see when I get the head on and can measure actual valve travel. Thanks!
