Triumph TR6 Valve Adjustment 

Thanks for sharing just so you know that you were with me today whilst working on my TR6 in sunny Denmark so if you have not been here before you now virtually have!

👍 I hear zeppelin too 👍

What Bentley book are you referring to in the video,

great video, I ask one thing: how do you spin the engine to put the valves in position to be adjusted?

Ah, memories of old...MGTC, TD, MGA. I thought the DOHC XK120 engine was absolutely brilliant until I had to adjust the valves. Good job, David.,

Thanks for your videos. As a TR owner myself, I find them incredibly helpful. Cheers, Darren

Nice video. What I do is simply following the firing order. When cylinder 1 is on TDC, I do the valves for the first cylinder. And so on, 153624. Greets from Belgium!

Good stuff Tush...I still prefer the method I use.

Dejavu...it's been a long time since I set any solid lifters like this. Good memories for me. Thanks Dave.

Finally got around to doing mine. Most were spot on, apart from three that were in fact too tight I felt. Loosened them off a bit. Thanks again for your video Tush. Wouldn't have tackled the job if I hadn't watched this first.

Adjusted my valves when i got the car, little noisy still i think. I watched the 2 springs compress and stop instantly right there, maybe i should go just a tad further just to make sure. Once they close , maybe you called it a sweet spot where they're not opening or closing. So maybe i should go a tad further ? Thanks

Got her purring like a kitten Tush. I am with you on that rust. I can't stand looking at anything I own having rust on it and it sucks that everything I do own is rusty :( LoL

Great video.. set mine yesterday and broke a lifter and bent a pushrod..damn.. My fault the engine wasn't fully cold, and I reckon too much resistance when sliding in gauge.. The car started great with no tappet noise, I left the car over night and when turning over the next morning I heard snap - the valves are free so luckily I haven't bent a valve.. case of valve spring recoil..

I personally prefer doing it the other way (both valves in the same cylinder at a time), but at the end of the day it doesn't really matter as the end result is the same. It's whatever the person doing it prefers. If anyone still finds them noisy after adjusting with a feeler blade, then look at a Gunson's ClickAdjust as it works around the wear spot you can get between the valve stem and the rocker. The only other thing I would suggest that may help some people is to put a dot of touch up paint (or similar) on the ones you have adjusted, this way you won't forget which you have and haven't adjusted.

Thanks for the hands-on video. Great looking engine! When I send my carbs off to Ken, I can't wait to remove the intake and paint it, and take a wire wheel to that side of the head and block. And install new ss hardware, too. Don't know about removing the exhaust manifold, though...I may let that sleeping dog alone, even though it looks to be from WW2.

Where did you buy your air filter chrome covers? My TR6 has the stock 2-horned air filter cover on it and I'd like to switch to open-air filters like you have.

Do you notice any differences in your TR-6 engine and the first TR-6 engine in your TR-250 ?

I noticed that you are running the original ZS carbs. Have you had any issues with them? I kept having stuck float probs and I finally got smart and put aftermarket floats and Grosse jets in and haven't had any problems since.

thanks for the play by play David... great to watch how it is done

What a long winded way to do valve clearance worked there in 60-70-80 0.010 thou sounds awful do it again 1 down set 12 and work along and cross over end up 12 down set 1it will run quite!!

That a large clearance we set the vw 1600cc at .006"

Cool

Thanks for this, it was a good refresher for me.

Remove the sparkplugs, it will turn easy.

well done

Cool

Huge help!! Thank you!

Where do we source a silicone gasket ?