A couple of years ago I owned a 1974 TR6, which was never restored. It was a CA car with only a respray (quite good for US standards at the time). The door gaps were the same as you achieved after your adjustment. It will never be better: that is factory like! Kind regards from the Netherlands! I like your content!
That's another great teaching video Tush. I will need that info this spring as I mount my body on my TRT6. If you didn't notice it looks like you need a new bladder on the passenger seat, Maybe the drivers too, we didn't see the bottom of it. Having them in place stops some of the mess on the carpet as the foam doesn't breakdown as much because it is supported. Much more comfortable too.
Hi Barry, yes definitely need a new diaphragm on the passenger seat...the drivers side was done about a week before my St. Louis trip...I didn’t have a spare diaphragm at that time to do the passenger seat. I’ll have to order one. Cheers, Tush
Bravo, Chef! My 76 also needs to have the gaps corrected and now I believe you've inspired me to tackle it. Send a letter to the Michigan DOT and tell them they owe you some new bits for your sway bar! Cheers.
Hopefully it helps a bit William. There is a lot of trial and error. You just need to understand the expected results by adding or subtracting shims in the various locations. Obviously, it’s best and easiest to do this at the assembly stage but it can be done later as demonstrated. The important thing to remember is that the final gaps can only really be checked with the car back on the ground and with all the fasteners tightened back down.
That’s a great looking TR6! The seats and those rims do a nice job of adding your own touch to it. And those floor pans after 13 years? Wow! It’s in great shape! 👍
@@cheftush you have done a fine job! And your TR250 is also outstanding. I saw that in your most recent Kentucky video. Well done. I’m going to look at a 74 TR6 tomorrow morning. 39,000 miles on it. We’ll see how it looks. If you ever come across a TR6 hardtop for sale, do share.
@@GraphicMill if you haven’t watched this video, might be helpful during your inspection. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tSmHI-uaU10.html cheers, Tush
I may have to attack my door gaps. Very nice video. I also had a problem with my Falcon SS exhaust system. The head pipe to intermediate pipe always leaked. I believe you did a video on the repair to this junction a year or so ago. Last fall I was working on my exhaust and found that by removing the 4 nuts on the exhaust manifold, I could remove the head pipe and intermediate pipes as one unit. SO earlier this spring I had the head pipe and intermediate pipe welded together. So far, with limited driving it sounds better then it has in my 4 years of ownership. Not sure where your problem is but this seem to fix mine, hopefully.
Hi Glenn, first, Thanks for watching and commenting. Playing with the gaps can be a bit of a test of patience but can be rewarding if you make some improvements. Very few things bother me on my TR6 and the door gap fix has crossed one of them of the list. I’ve had problems with the Falcon sealing at all joins but mostly in the middle section. I’ve had it off several times...when it comes off this time, it may be for the last time.., stay tuned!
Dave, that broken sway bar reminds me of an incident I had a few years ago. The secondary roads here in NJ can be beaten up pretty badly over the winter. My wife and I were driving along in my TR4A in the spring and hit a stretch of rough road doing about 50 mph. We started hearing a loud metallic clattering noise that suddenly stopped. I decided to slow down and pull over at the next side street and see what had happened. When I stepped on the brake, it went right to the floor!😬 Luckily I had serviced the rear drum brakes that winter, and using the “fly-off” hand brake, I was able to bring the car to a controlled safe stop. What had happened was a thin welded tab of metal at the rear of the trans tunnel, that held the rear brake line in place, had let go. The clattering was the loose brake line being hit by the rear U joint (my car has a solid rear axle). The clattering stopped when the U joint grabbed and ripped the line apart, wrapping some of it around the driveshaft!!! The moral of the story is make sure your emergency brake is working as it should!
Sorry I missed your call...I’ll give you a call back after work today. Yeah, was never very happy with the gaps and they just had to be done! I’m happy now...on to the next thing!
Just caught up with this. A great video showing some brilliant results. My passenger side isn't a good gap, so I might have a go at this now I've seen you do it. Easy fix for the anti roll bar, remove the other side 🤣. P.s. the shot of the car before you play the video looks really good 👍.
It truly amazes me how well that resto has aged considering how much you drive the car! You must have some secret tricks. I just finished my resto and I'm paranoid to even get a drop of water on her.
Hi Eric, trust me it can be a little difficult to keep up especially with it being white...in certain areas it can really show the dirt ( like the engine bay). I try not to stress about it and have driven it quite a bit in the rain, down dirt roads etc in my travels...I figure I can always restore it again in the future right? 😉
Nice job tush , gaps look much better. I use race ramps to hold the car up when off the ground. Wow that first day was cold, sorry that you guys are still on lockdown. The bike sounds good. Stay safe.
@@cheftush what I like about the race ramps is that they cartel the tires. As long as your safe, and I know your much more knowledge than I. What’s up with Les he can’t over and give a hand with the top? 😁 iswww.raceramps.com/garage-service/cribs/c/cribs/
You have an amazing fleet. Didn’t realize how the shims on the outriggers impacted door gap. I bet I was closer than I thought on the 3 with some adjustments to those rear shims
Was it an original bolt or aftermarket ? You can imagine all the stresses of the anti-roll mechanism going through it, is it maybe a little bent as well ? Probably sheared where it emerged through something and had some sideways forces too...
Great job on the door gaps, a lot of work. I bet you wished that you had done it at the time; still it gave you a chance to give the car a once over and spot the sway bar mount, or not in this case. Very frustrating when you have to change out the tyres on age rather than wear, but the safest thing to do as you don't want a side wall blowout.
I guess at the time the door gaps were at the “ good enough” stage for me 13 years ago 😜 It was a pretty quick, full body off, nut and bolt restoration that I completed in 14 months time...I didn’t have another sports car to drive back then so it was a matter of getting it done.
Will do Frank. It needs quite a bit of cleaning Top and Bottom that’s for sure. As mentioned, I’ll be doing fluids, maybe spark plugs, checking valves, sway bar fix, exhaust, and tires at the very least.
Great video Chef. Why do I have a feeling that gap adjustment was more difficult than it appeared? Glad mine has good gaps. As for the tires aging out, there is a simple fix for that. Drive it more!.
Good timing on this, I've been swapping out all of the body mount rubber while I have the driver side floor pan out for rust repair this past week. I'm planning to re-check the gaps once I have everything back together, hopefully easier to adjust with new and repainted shim pieces in there, it's helpful to see how it went for you.
Hey Dave, good to see you buddy, (any news on your vaccine yet?) Your White TR6 is such a pretty car and so fortunate that you spotted the errant sway bar link assembly when you did! I don’t think your door gaps are too too bad at all compared to some and taking in to account the way these car bodies were originally designed. We also had a shock snow fall back on the 11th (Berkshire UK) but it soon thawed thank goodness....Keep well my friend 👍
Hi Phil, I managed to get my first vaccine shot last Thursday so I’m happy about that. Next shot is not scheduled until August though...hopefully, that will accelerate.
Great job mate, I've still got to do a few of them 'I'll do it one day jobs to my TR6 since I put a new chassis on mine 3 years ago' But then I just think, just drive the thing. Bad luck with the rear anti roll bar loosing its drop link, I'd would be interested in knowing how much of a difference the makes to the cars handling when you've got it fixed 👍
Hi Steve, yeah a bit of a bummer about the sway bar...I think I’m going to have to make the large washer that fits in the pocket on the underside of the trailing arm...at least I have the other one to use as a template.
Great job on the door gaps mate. Your attention to detail makes my OCD look like a minor nuisance! And doesn't that '6' sound sweet? 👍👏 I am not sure how this 'Global Warming' thing is going on but here in the UK we have also had a 'chilly' spell with temperatures this month in the 7 ish degrees C. despite some good sunshine. Even had snow mid April. 🤔 Best wishes to all in Canada from the UK over this COVID disaster. We are coming out of Lockdown step by step as the vaccination thing has gone pretty well. I got my 2nd jab last Monday.
I should have fixed the gaps a while ago but other projects took priority I guess 😉 I’m definitely looking forward to putting some more miles on it once we are out of lockdown.
Hi Ed, the console is an aftermarket add on. I love it...it’s so nice to be able to rest your arm there on long drives. Plus, it adds a little bit of storage for a phone/wallet/coins and bills for toll booths etc...
Hi TR Tush!!! That TR6 is a beauty!!! I noticed that on the 19:20 muffler that there appears to be some other tail pipes that were cut off and welded shut. Did TR6s ever have 4 tail pipes? or is that a RHD vs LHD thing?
Hi Graem, I’m not sure why the second set of holes are there...I believe the stock steel muffler also had these holes welded shut. And, as far as I know, both the RHD and LHD shared the same tail pipe exit side. I guess it’s possible that they used the rear muffler for another car with the opposite side exit.....
Dave, excellent video! To simulate my '66TR4A sitting on the tires (for adjusting the gaps) I plan on mounting the 4 wheel hub extensions for the wire wheels and using jack stands all round (protected by 4" plastic pipe halves) to put the proper pressures on all 4 wheels while still allowing the access that removing the tires allows. Does this sound like a viable option to reduce the gap differences when the car is put back on the ground, as opposed to having the jack stands under the chassis?
Sounds like that would work. I’m not sure how you are planning to lift the body to add/remove shims...Just be careful the jack stands don’t come off your extensions.
@@cheftush Thanks Chef. Good point about coming off the jack stands. I will probably use large hose clamps to secure the jack stand to each extension while I lift the body for shim placement/removal using the same methods you used in your video. I'm still working on the bare chassis now so it will definitely be a long time until I get to that stage.
These wheels and tires transform the car though from a driving perspective John...maybe not from a visual perspective though. I bought the Coker branded redlines brand new and they were not cheap...they are definitely old technology tires and drove like it...if I had to do it again and wanted to go with stock rims and redlines, I’d probably get some redlines vulcanized on a more modern tire.
Good job, those are very good gaps. I particularly like the stance on that car, do you mind if I ask what set up you are running there in terms of standard or lowered springs and of course tyres and wheels. Just a really nice looking stance and nice clean lines, they don’t need more IMO. Thanks, great tips there.
Hi Niall. I’m running the Goodparts lowered springs that I believe are about 1 inch lower than stock...I did have to put some Goodparts spacers back in the front and rear as the bodywork was a little too close to the tires over large bumps and I didn’t want to take off any paint! I also run the Goodparts adjustable camber brackets in the rear with heavy duty, re valved lever shocks and a sway bar. In the front I’m running an oversized sway bar and Koni Classic adjustable shocks. I’m running 16 inch tires on 16x7 Konig Rewind Rims with 0 offset...for tires I’m running 205/65/16. Hopefully this answers your question. Cheers, Tush
David, thanks for this video. Very interesting. I’ve just finished painting my car, and have a similar problem with door gaps - too much at top and not enough at bottom. I didn’t do a frame off like you previously did, tub had stayed on frame, but I did put on new doors, and front / rear fenders (which were not there when I purchased car). Couple of questions. I was thinking that since I never removed tub, that it would be easier to use shims on door hinge to adjust gap? Also, do you ever use any shims between the front or rear fender and where those connect to A and B post?
Hi David, sorry just reading this note now. Yes, you can use shims on your hinge points to adjust the gaps…they actually sell the shims/gaskets to do this if you are unaware. Technically, you shouldn’t need A or B post shims either, but I’ve been know to utilize this method now and again…on my current TR250 project, I’ll be adding one shim to the passenger side b post to fender to get it to line up a little better at the bottom. I say, use whatever method is necessary 😉
Dave I have a 6 and the radiator housing has a crack in the cast iron. I went to Moss for a new one and they don’t have either cast or aluminum. I want a cast to stay original but can’t find one. So I’m going with the aluminum one. What’s your take on that . Please advise
Hi Frank, well I run an aluminum radiator in both my 1960 TR3A and my 73 TR6. I have been very happy with both. I know there are much cheaper ones on the market, but I would recommend a Wizard aluminum radiator. You can get these with or without an electric fan pre-installed.
Hey Cheftush Quick question; is there a place to source shims for the Trailing arms in Canada? Thanks for the videos; great help for us novice tr6 owners!
Hey, currently in New Brunswick; relocated from Thornhill. I ordered adjustable brackets for TA from Goodparts so not sure how many needed, but noticed the left rear has a lot of negative camber currently.
@@shauncastle9058 not aware of any vendors on the east coast unfortunately…I assume you don’t want to order from some place like Moss Motors? Part Number is 675-030
