Truma Combi Heating Elements | Work Vlog 

Always a pleasure to watch someone who is knowledgeable about a subject and can make it simple enough for everyone to understand. I wonder how they design something as complicated as the heater?

That was interesting, seeing the inside of the truma. Hopefully getting ours fixed soon then we can do winter camping, can't wait for that. Thanks for the video 🐾🐾🐕🐈

I found that very useful. Good video 👍💙❤️

Good vlog John it’s great to watch someone who obviously knows what they are doing at work on the Truma as it’s a mystery to me 👍

brill video duck. nicely broken down and explained.

Great video buddy. Very interesting 👍👍

Nice job thanks for sharing

Really interesting thanks 👍👍

Well done john Jason will be happy now

You were only testing the continuity of the element itself. If the element wasn't heating, that test would show if you had a break in the element core. You'd have needed to do an IR test to earth/outer casing of the elements & cores to find if they were shorting to trip the RCD. As you said though, it sometimes needs to be under load before it shows.

Can't believe you had tools all over the upholstery without any protection in place.

John, if you cut the elements at the end, you can then twist out the two halves of each element with pliers.

Interesting as I've one element failed in my truma. Thanks.

That was very good and great info not sure i would like to strip down a truma heater.

You should have done a full video on that John 😀 please tell me you are doing a video on fridge ? 😀

Fyi combi 6e wasn't working on gas. Was getting first click but not the second louder click. I hadnt used mine for atleast 6 months .. checked cowel, flu replaced fuses, ran gas in all appliances for 10mins. At a guess it was the shut off valve sticking or a spider had made a nice nest around it. Just kept working 10 times a day.. took a few days then that beautiful sound of the second click and the gas starting to burn. Sometimes these things figure themselves out with a bit of persistence.

Where is the test meter from? I am currently using a multimeter and amps clamp but that looks likes a nice solution. Well done for sorting it out. Chris

Hello to you both and all the cats can't remember all there names lol hopefully you remember me it's Jamie Ellmers I used to comment on my private RU-vid lol and sorry I haven't been in touch for a while been so busy but all caught up now lol but hope your all ok and I have loved all the vids like I always do lol and we are planning on going to a few of these festivals next year but we gonna be inn a caravan as just can't afford a van just yet lol but we are also on RU-vid now and travel about in the tent at the min but hoping in October to be getting 5hw caravan so will have some winter camping can't wait lol just hope they will allow us to the vanlove fest next year and overland show as we want to spend the hole weekend there as want to do something different as we never been to a festival before but hope your ok all the best love from us all x

Is there any 12V or 24V heating elements that it is possible to change it to instead of the regular 230V? So I easily could use the solar excess power diversion, without having to go via the inverter.

Hi John good video. Personally I’d say that a continuity test will not necessarily expose an earth leakage. It would be better to use an insulation tester (earth leakage) usually at 500volts. That said it may not show when cold. These elements are ridiculously expensive when compared to similar for cookers etc. From my soon to be former life in appliance repairs, there are some companies who can repair or manufacture either obsolete or expensive elements.

You could have cut the old element so you can twist them so they come out easily.