Try this Exercise! Power Endurance Training for Climbing 

Intensity is the main issue. Hopefully this helps, because it's a great session :)

I agree! I find it easier to get the correct level if I use already topped projects. That way it's all about the endurance and not figuring out any beta.

that was one of my main issues, I always picked a really easy boulder for me, or a really hard one -.-. Probably just bad setters in my gym.

If the intensity is not Hard enought to get pump in the third try reduce the rest time or choose a other Harder boulder

i second this

until you get a more qualified answer from lattice, bouldering on steep terrain with small footholds is a good way to start. the kilterboard also works very well ✌🏼

This is wild. Good bot

Wowza is this fake it real?!

Happy to help! :)

Yes. For most this is really good advice. It's too much to combine and the second session suffers quality, and the energy systems interfere with each other. However some very well trained athletes may combine in these but are likely to schedule in a way that prioritises one over the other.

Yes, this is what I do. With regards to intensity, I tend to go for a pretty easy route with only slight overhang. I have a ~6c+ flash grade in our gym for top rope, and when I want to try this exercise I tend to pick a 5B-6A range and do it 3x. Same applies, usually when I start that third time I am dreading it :D It sucks so much, but it's my weakness so I really should do it.

This is good training but its going to be quite far from the intension of this session, so it won't be a substitution. The intensity of Boulder Triples session is very high. You'll likely be failing/falling after just 18-20 moves in a single set, and you'll have had intermittent rests (2x 1min) to make it that far. If you are doing back-to-back routes on top rope, the chances are you'll be doing more like 60 moves with no rest. So the intensity is much lower and this will have a much greater dependency on the aerobic energy system. A great session with different aims, but not similar to what we've described in the video.

To do something similar an a route, pick a project simialr to your max redpoint. Break it down into 3 sections (of 8-10 moves) and climb the route resting 1 minute between each section. You should be maxing out in the final section/top of the climb.

@@LatticeTraining thanks for the explanation!

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A good option if you have one. But not always the best option. It comes down to what the climber needs. A board is usually the easiest to control the intensity.

The intention of this session is building anaerobic capacity. The rest in between boulders is important and the aim is to 'power out' in 8 moves or less. 4x4s have little to no rest between boulders, and the intensity would be quite a bit lower as a result. The outcome being an aerobic power session and we would not suggest these sessions could be substituted. So I guess we'll have to agree to disagree 😊

@@LatticeTraining so 4x4s with a few seconds more rest or harder circuits. Not selling me here.

​@@danielmacdonough5297 At a glance I can see why they might seem similar. 4x4 = approx. 5s rest (or less), Boulder Triples = 60s rest. So 55 more seconds, or x11 more rest, between boulders. The energy system use is very different if done correctly.

If you are able to do the same boulder problem in a 4x4 as prescribed here and the boulder triples it’s likely you have an intensity level problem. The boulder triples intensity level should be much higher than a 4x4.

@@LatticeTraining Discussing here since the topic has been raised. I fail to understand why triples is anaerobic and 4*4 is aerobic ? I would argue that triples is more about endurance, and 4*4 is more about "actually" power endurance. I would even say that both are still anaerobic sessions, with 4*4 being more focused on pure power endurance and tirples being more about endurance. To me, power endurance=ability to maintain an anareobic regime for as much as you can and endurance=recover capacity. We need both in climbing. Btw, i get the sense that most if not the vast majority of exercises or sessions labelled as "power endurance" are in reality more endurance oriented, since they usually offer you very long rests in between reps (triples, circuits training with 5min rest, long hangs with long recover), whereas 4*4 or 7-3 repeaters "up to failure" really makes you go deep in power endurance. Your thoughts on that ?