Valid points! I really appreciate the constructive criticism and to be honest I don't disagree with you. The enclosure can definitely be improved and you're correct when the shifters are fully extended that solution really is not the way to go. I have started putting o-rings on the thumb screws which does help with the thumb screw coming loose, but the paddle itself can still move. Continuous improvement, production & quality are a moving target and so these concerns help me now know what the top priority is to improve on the design. Also, since we pretty rarely have a customer that isn't fully happy, I can offer a full return/refund. I'll send over an email as well to follow-up. -Zach
this was the same setup i was going for, i have that same rim (i love it), but just decided to throw it on a quick release. Pretty sure they went with a different design for the paddles now. And yes its expensive for what it is (all button plates are for some reason)
Re it feeling empty its something I've started wondering about re my Thrustmaster F1 rim after doing a 3d printed shifter resistance mod to my Thrustmaster TH8Rs shifter. After doing the mod and getting more of a nice clunk to the shifting it also caused it to sound quite hollow. So I opened it up and stuffed it full front and main chamber with foam padding. Now it sounds more solid. I'm modding the F1 rim (soldered new buttons, cad designed new joysticks, soon carving a new faceplate by hand from aluminium) and I'm trying to find suitable materials to fill in the hollow spaces in the rim internals which won't be too heavy and won't absorb the FFB. Thinking of almost making a cast of some form. Thinking could that be done with other button boxes like your Turn.
I agree. But the owner, Zach, builds makes them himself so I guess he has more time invested. Zach is a really good guy, so I don't mind paying more knowing that it is going to a good person.
