I was looking at building like a leg rest with haptics shakers all over where your legs rest before the pedals. Maybe a custom haptic suit that had the little ones 8 to each leg all around.
@@andrev5207 Space is definately a premium, but I think there would be enough room mounting them as you suggest. Would have to make new mounts. Hard part is figuring out how to mount them on the pedals. The pedals don't have extra mounting holes.
@@andrev5207 I never like the motor idea. Spin up time is probably slightly slower, and I think the vibrators have a greater frequency/vibration range. Although, I've never used motors so I'm not certain.
I agree. But the owner, Zach, builds makes them himself so I guess he has more time invested. Zach is a really good guy, so I don't mind paying more knowing that it is going to a good person.
That´s so great thx for the MOD. So much better. Maybe another question, do you know or find out why are there 2x 3-Pin not connected with P9 and P2. Could this be an optional connection for two additional shifters?
this was the same setup i was going for, i have that same rim (i love it), but just decided to throw it on a quick release. Pretty sure they went with a different design for the paddles now. And yes its expensive for what it is (all button plates are for some reason)
That is really wild! The blinking feature is cool if you want it for something like a pit limiter. But not being able to turn it off is a major flaw. Do you know if the V2 is the same?
@@thoritissimgarage1482yeah, I just built mine today and it worked!! I’m a bit out of my element with this stuff and couldn’t have done it without your video.
Great review! 👍 However I think at this price point it becomes more of a subjective preference. I was almost certain I was going for the F-Pro until I actually got to try both of the wheels. The F-Pro feels cheap compared to Ascher. The shifters are good but not on par with Ascher imo. The LEDs are to me more of a distraction and make the wheel look like a video-game toy. The thumb encoders are properly placed on F-Pro, but their feeling is not. Anyway as mentioned when you get to this price it becomes more about preferences. Both wheels are great! I went with the wireless Ascher-version so none of the USB issues with sticky cable or difficulty mounting.
Hi you are absolutely right. What you show in video is just most difficult situation with so many cars close for so long time. I was surprised group survived so long before things started to happen. Here I don't see any automated script that could discover who started this crash. But other situations you described like being hit from back, or lets say car looses control and then makes mess it should be better handled in terms of SR calculation. I think the only thing you can do is just "best effort" in terms of clean driving on your side. When you are not at fault just ignore and think "in the end its just silly video game" or whatever that can take the pain away. Simracing has that dark side of frustration as no other game. I think, we have to adapt our minds somehow because devs are not willing to help.
This is backwards from how street bikes steer at speed. You push forward on the handle and the bike leans and turns the direction you pushed forward. Push left grip forward turn left. Push right grip forward turn right. Try to switch the axis in software or flip your potentiometer around if that is not an option.
Oh, I know. Rode bikes for years. I could just flip the axis in the program. Thanks for comment. There is another guy who built a awesome version you sit on. Mine was just a sloppy attempt to see if I could get it to work, but it was fun to tinker with.
@thoritissimgarage1482 Quick question. I've followed this build guide, but I cannot get the output of the 2 channels above ~26mah. I'v checked all gain settings multiple times, and resoldered everything as well. after almost giving up, I found that the simhub Sketch is for rhe moto shield with a VNH2SP30 and mine has VNH3SP30... Is this what is causing my woes? If so, do you have any idea what I need to change?
Hmm...hard to tell with that info. I doubt it is a difference in the moto sheild version. What is your power supply rating volts/amps? .26mah is not necessarily wrong. The fans need 12V to spin and not a lot of amps, so check what the moto sheild is putting out in terms of volts. Are you using a multimeter to test channel output on the board? Do your fans spin at all? Do you get a red light coming off of board. Simhub can also be a little confusing. Is simhub recognizing the device?
@@thoritissimgarage1482 so, since I was miffed and fairly confident of my soldering skills and troubleshooting ability, I ordered the 2 version of the board (and some nice connectors to solder on instead of wires straight on the board) and my multimeter jumped to 12v instantly every time I press the test. Tears were shed, Champaign was had, and we came close to world peace. Hooked up one of the 7k rpm fans to the screw in connector, fired it up and it spun beautifully. ... That is till it fell over (violent little buggers), sucked in a spare screw in connector and i was greeted with a spray of 2 metal cores and green confetti. The green used to be the plastic housing. Lesson learned, printing an intake fan cover as we speak 😂. Thanks for the back and forth, made me realize I over thought it and should just reorder, resolder and retry.
trying to do something similar will test next week but with smaller 25watt exciters. Cost me total $50 compared to those sim 3d rumbles or p1000 shakers although p1000 are probably much better but maybe not at $200+.
Yeah, I found it to be a strange feature. Doubt it will be fixed at factory because it's how it is designed and don't think they will redesign it. It's a great wheel otherwise. Thanks for post!
I had a guy tonight at the Coke series Next Gen race #25 all black car and this guys openly says he is wasted on edibles and he was involved in like 10 of the 10 cautions. I watched the cars in front crash and slowed down. I look in my mirror and this bum is not slowing down it looks like he is trying to draft me so I end up mirror dodging him and he just destroys the wreck infront of him. Iracing has guys high and drunk admitting this and their attitude and driving ruins your race. He said "Hay its just a game chill out." I tallied up x10 from avoiding wrecks and I was collected in a wreck. I was just riding trying to ve at the end. I lost like .40 SR all non of my own doing. I am so pissed.
I 100% agree with you. I have invested a lot of money and time in iracing and the racing good 40% of the time here and there and the rest is a shit show of cautions and wrecks mostly not your fault.
iRacing could implement a way to figure out who caused and accident or who was the majority at fault in most cases. It has the data. Knocking down a saftey rating because someone else slams into you penalizes good racers. And you are right, it makes the game not fun to play. I can't tell you how many times I have spent 20 min. preparing for a race only have someone crash into me in the first two laps and end my race. I get a 12X. I get so frustrated thinking about it.
I am not having fun anymore and I am only 4 months in. I wont race short tracks or those series. I avoid superspeedways because I lose a entire class and have to farm SR up just so I can race and not worry about it for just 1 or 2 races at best. I am racing far less now and today I realized this is why.
Me too, I'm racing a lot less because of it. In my opinion, iRacing keeps the SR the way it is because of money. It knows that if your SR drops (which it does for everyone through no fault of their own), you will have to join numerous races (and drive causiously and not be competitive) to build it back up. First, this keeps more people online and artificially inflates the number of drives who actually want to compete but makes it look like there are a lot of people playing. Second, it gives a false sense of competitiveness if half the field is only in the race to get SR. Third, SR keeps people playing and thus monthly subscriptions ($$). Fourth, there is likely not a single player that would wants to keep the SR system the way it is - iRacing ignores its customers. Fifth, the existing SR system penalized racers whom are in fact safe racers. iRacing could use AI to analyze race data to have it review who caused accidents or to what degree someone was at fault after the race. During the race, instead of the 1X, 2X, 4X, etc. notifications, a racer could be notified that they were involved in 1 Incident, 2 Incidents, 3 Incidents, etc. Then after the race, the AI could within seconds analyze the data and attribute fault and reduce for only those at fault SR. That type of system would not be too difficult to implement. Instead, iRacing wants to spend its time releasing new car models and tracks because those generate $$$$. I can't tell you how many time I was thinking of racing only to tell myself, "well, I could spend the next 20 min. getting ready only to get slammed into by a drunk, high, or disrespectful jerk and then get frustrated; or I could play a different game." Much more often than not, I chose to play a different game. Thank you for your posts. I wish more people would get together and express your opinion. Maybe if enough did, iRacing would actually do something, but I'm not holding my breath.
Thank you for you very extensive update. Companies (persons) like Turn Racing are trustworthy. When they produce a product that you need/want, I would be willing to pay more than other (mass) products. I had a very good experience with Sim Racing Machines (Simon), ging personal attention, good advice (even if this meant less revenue for him), solid products and if something is not working as expected, a lot of willingness to solve the issue. Even if it might be partly due to my specific setup. Great customer service! That's what differentiates these (small) companies from the large mainstream.
Super helpful, mine just showed up today and does not fit my F-GT Elite plate, but I now have some further ideas on how to proceed Thanks for posting!😎👍
Great race with a well deserved win! The game chat is funny. I really like the multiple camera angles that show the different inputs for the sim. Keep it up, and in the words of the late great Ricky Bobby..."If you aren't first, your last!" =)
Can i use a 19.3 volt 9.3 amp power supply instead as i already have one save me buying another one the moto board says it has a max of 16v but i was wondering if it may be able to handle it. I will be running the same setup as you except for the fans ill be using 6000 rpm. One last question what wires did you use at the start to solder on the moto shield. Thanks in advance
Thanks! Yeah, I'm not much of a talker when racing. Track is not too bad. Have to let off a bit before turn 3 or hit the wall. Rest of the track is pedal to the floor.
I guess the holes in the top plate are fairly small, but maybe for frequent swapping some removable push rivets could be worth investigating? Of course they would need to be easily popped out/reused & more importantly would have to look at least ok!
Thank you for this quick info/breakdown. Funky switch is hard to use and the lights not being able to be turned off are making me look elsewhere. Not sure I want to go SC Tahko or other. If you had another choice over the CC GT Pro, what would it be?
Thanks for the comment! I did a followup video of how to shut off the blinking light feature if you don't mind doing a little percise soldering: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-c5YwmRQ_sO4.html The blinking lights are gone on mine now, and I do like the wheel. I wasn't a fan of the Tahko either, which is why I went with th GT Pro. As far as I know, there are not many choices out there for the Simucube. If you have Moza or Simagic there are a few. Let me know if you come across anything that looks interesting.
Fantastic setup..MONSTER pc....Looking to the future, if you ever decide to leave the hobby and sell the rig, at least you'll have cash in hand to buy another house!/yacht! etc
Thank you very much! I use three of the Nobsound cards for the six small shakers I use (4 on seat and 2 on pedals), and I usb sound card for the single big shaker I use for gear shifts. So, in total 4 for shakers.
I agree on all accounts, the BP2 could use a few improvements, but the wheels themselves just fit me like a glove. I haven't really interacted with Zack, but that's because I haven't had any problems.
