Turned Up My CK2610. Was It Worth It?? 

Thanks!

I'm definitely glad I went with the 6 foot mower for mine!

Framing and claw hammers are made to drive Steel nails. I've been a builder for 40 + years, the ONLY problem beating steel with a framing hammer is you can distort the head thereby making driving a nail difficult.

rear discharge close to effortless in comparison

I've honestly never checked the rear tire pressure but I believe they are around 20. They are filled with Rim Guard and you'll probably get some residual fluid blowing out the valve stem into your tire pressure gauge when you check the pressure, regardless of if the valve stem is at the top or not. They say to just use a cheap, disposable gauge but I don't have one. The fronts however I run almost to the max, usually 35-40 psi

keep them at 15.

You should have three bars on your rears touching the ground. On my CK27hst with R 4s it works out to about 15 lbs/sq" pressure.

These ones are Bias ply. They work extremely well in the lawn and only damage the grass if you're turning full lock. I wasn't crazy impressed by how easily that rim bent

@@upstategearheads kinda a short side wall and made tire less ridged

Yes, the pto horsepower is directly related to the engine since it's a mechanical connection. You turn up the engine horsepower and the pto horsepower increases as well. It makes a big difference when running pto driven implements

I believe that is the same number, yes!

Unfortunately that shitty little hammer was all I had. My trusty 2lb er is at the shop, not my house!

It might have lost 5 lbs of air since straightening it that day, so I'd say it's not bad!

I hit a stump at an angle and bent my rim really bad. It was so bad the tire was knocked off and it had a huge gap. My neighbor watched as I banged on the rim with a sledgehammer. He couldn't believe I straightened that rim back to almost perfect. I think I could probably have done a little bit better if I had a big shop press. But you have to use what ya got

Yea, it surprised me too. Almost a little disappointed that it bent so easily, but the good news is that I can straighten it without much trouble!

No, that adjustment would be from the governor, this simply turns up the fuel supply so that the fuel pumps more fuel at wide open

I welded them on. They're 3/8 hooks I bought from Kens Bolt On Hooks. Check out their website, Tractor Time with Tim has a discount code as well I believe. I've gotta admit though, I think I've only used them maybe once or twice since I installed them. I would probably use them more if I didn't own a set of forks

@@upstategearheads that’s for the info. I got the same tractor this year. I got 33 hours already and a mile long list of projects for it. What part of upstate NY are you from? I’m on the north of Oneida lake.

@@ericwagoner9149 Clayton, north of Watertown on the St Lawrence River

I got weld on hooks from Amazon. I also used 3/8 and then put 1/4” plate under them to spread the load out. I use them constantly.

@@steveb4992 so you welded the 1/4” plate on the inside of the bucket or just as a base plate?

Yup, exactly the same machine except for a facelift!

Because if I used a piece of wood, it would have dampened the blow and it was a very light hammer as it is. To be honest, I really didn't expect the wheel to bend back as easily as it did, so once I saw progress I continued with it. I've already got the paint touched up

I have zero experience with the backhoe so I can't be much help there. But the way I look at a backhoe is: for $8,000, I can rent a lot of mini excavators and they will do a nicer job in the long run. But for someone who's work around grass at a customers house, I can understand where the excavator would destroy the lawn with the tracks

I know this is a dated post but 9 months flies and maybe the info can help. I bought the 2610 w the hoe attachment and when I received the equipment my first impression was an $8500 gardening tool. I was disappointed but i kept it parked it out back. I recently needed to do a fair amount of excavating due to an electrical feeder cable having a break somewhere along a 150ft stretch. I broke out the hoe and started digging, code is 24" minimum for an electrical cable, i figured i could get there in most spots. Who knew previous owner dropped the cable in at 60" plus, would have never guessed it. The soil is nasty clay with slabs of shale like rock and is impossible to hand dig with a shovel. (I know how to operate a shovel with the best of em but not a back hoe). I am so completely pumped i added the hoe to my tractor upon purchase. It is a steep price for any tool, I get it. But I've had to dig up the majority of this cable and whether I'm punching through the clay and shale layer or doing fine maneuvers around said cable this tractor hoe setup is bada$$. Only two complaints, first is I wish it were bigger as in longer reach. I find it somewhat limited but only after i have dug a 6x4x6 hole in the earth. The reach issue is almost 90% addressable with a small tractor relocation. Second complaint is that the how assembly is somewhat of a bitch to put back on the tractor. But I'm a newb and at least 50% of the issue is me related. Ok three items. The third is that i can't reach the throttle control from the excavator seat. I have to have long dowel with hook on the end to make throttle adjustments for hydraulic power. Aside from those, the gardening tool is one beast of a digging apparatus and would recommend to anyone looking to purchase to do so with the initial financing package.

@@brett9736 I ended up getting the ck 4010 se 8 months ago no backho attachment due to stock but I knew I needed a Gannon box and I’m happy to say after 50 hours I’ve built 2 massive pads raised elevation of 4 ft in most spots and moved all 800 yards of dirt with it equaling about 1555200 lbs of dirt

Yeah I wasn't very excited when I saw how easily that wheel bent

No, I wish. It was a shirt I purchased to try to win one though!

My brother has a gauge for his Deere, but I've gotta get the adapters to go from his 3/8 fitting to the Kioti 1/2

Mine did too, but hook a 6 foot brush hog to it and mow hood height grass. Then you'll notice a difference

@@upstategearheads yes 1 way to kill my engine if I do too long 😂

You can make a jumper for the seat really easily, or if you really never want to hook it up again, just snip the connector off on the tractor side of the wire harness and splice the two wires together

Just put tractor in Neutral and set Parking Brake. Tractor won't shut off. Even with PTO on. I have a 2020 2610. No issues.

@@bradt9041 correct but if you're on and off the seat a bunch then that becomes quiet the inconvenience

Didn't I test it out and give my opinion of how it performed?

@@upstategearheads You sure did .... Very good info. Thanks

I believe I just answered your comment on the other video

Thanks!

The only difference between the Bobcat and the Kioti are the loader, that's it. And the Bobcat lift capacity is 1369 @ 500 mm (20 inches) ahead of the pivot pin whereas the Kioti is rated at 1835 at the pin, so two different ratings but work out to be nearly the same performance from the seat, not nearly 1,000lbs different. I have not done the timing adjustment yet. It runs identically to when it did before making the fuel adjustment, just with much more power. I haven't seen a single disadvantage to it yet

Thanks for replying back. I have been looking to get a tractor. The Kioti CK2610 is at the top of the list. The big reason is the lift capacity. My issue is I don't have a dealer near me. If the Bobcat lifts the same as the Kioti, which you say does or is close. I stand corrected. I do have a Bobcat dealer kinda near me. Not sure if they sell tractors. But I will find out. I may have to put the Bobcat at the top now. That would be huge for me. I of course will have to research and find the true lift capacity of the the 2. Would be a homerun if they are the same. I appreciate the feedback. Again thank you.

I had originally intended on purchasing a Bobcat, both because of the name as well as the dealer is closer to me than Kioti. Once I ordered the Bobcat and the delivery date kept getting pushed back further and further with no end in sight, I looked at Kioti and the dealer had 3 in stock. Not to mention the dealer is a smaller, local guy who is great to deal with and the R14 tires are not available on the Bobcat and I wouldn't trade them for the world

I like the way you think! Makes me want to put a pyrometer in it and turn it up more!

@@upstategearheads I sure would!!! These kioti tractors are growing on me.

I covered how to turn up the fuel in the previous video The mower bolts are tight. They are designed to have slop so the mower can float over the contour of the ground I don't have much issue lining up the loader and I'm not sure how you'd get a spud wrench in from the backside to allow you to insert the pin from the outside. There's not enough room between the loader and the hood. But I appreciate the observations though!

@@upstategearheads the mower bolts should pivot on the bolts, not flop around. I use the spud wrench sticking it in the pin holes and doing fine tuning to the alignment of the pins. If you "weren't having problems" you wouldn't need to kick the pins like you do. Not just giving you a hard time bud, I use my tractors to make a living every day and just sharing my experience.

The mower originally had a collar on those bolts so that when they were inserted in the holes there wasn't any movement in the deck. It was totally rigid side to side and wouldn't allow it to float over the ground at all. It's designed so you can remove the bolts to allow it to follow the contour of the ground better but I found that when I did that, the mower lift points would just pivot vertically before lifting the deck, making it a pain in the ass. I found that if I installed the bolts without the collar it allowed enough movement to float yet still lift the deck reasonably

@@upstategearheads watching your vid again, you may not understand a better way to use the "mower". The rear on yours is too high, you want that at the height you want the final cut to be (say 2") and the front you actually want to run a couple inches higher than that. Most of your vid you're almost dragging the ground with the front and the rear isn't doing anything by time whatever needs to be trimmed reaches the back. Again not bustin your chops, just telling you what I experience daily.

angle is sloped to the front a little too much... Mine gets slopped and banged around everwhich way when not on flat ground. I even use it sometimes to chip/mulch small 2-3" tree limbs a Quick down & Up when I don't have a chipper available. My Bush hog ain't new and getting older faster

I'm very aware, but I wouldn't consider turning the power back up to the original spec that the engine was designed for to be "overworking"

Do you have to advance the timing from 16* to 18*?

@@gsalvo9147 I have not done that yet, but I intend to. Actually I'm really looking forward to that part since time advance is a huge part of how an engine runs

@@upstategearheads looking forward to that video.

Local dealer told me it’s built as a 35hp engine that they “detune” to 26hp so it meets emissions standards so it doesn’t need the extra emissions equipment

Thanks for the positive comments. Really inspiring for me...

​@@upstategearheads yo man, ignore this fool troll. If he thinks your life was at risk at any point he doesn't own a tractor, let alone a property where a tractor is needed for general maintenance. And if he had any balls at all, he'd be making his own videos instead of hiding behind a keyboard, fault seeking on those with true ambition. Fukn trolls. (I do love the freedom of speech (ish) in this country even for this f stick, he is the price we pay for our freedoms)

Care to explain to me the "proper way to do a loader"? Could you see the temperature gauge to know if it was cold? Would it have been better to beat the pin in with a hammer instead of the gently sole of my shoe? Please help improve me as an operator....

Have had a few tractors with loaders and will admit not all are in “perfect” alignment but usually it’s just floating the loader arms a bit. Bet your not a mechanic or mechanical but I like the content so keep up the good work !! “Hammer shoe” needs a patent pending disclaimer

Hahahaha. Imagine that! She might accidentally get her hands dirty!

I cringed at the wife helping. Mine tried to help me put the hoe on, 4.5 flipn hours later, pissed off as all hell, we finally got it on and pinned. My rookie ism did not help but the lack of mechanical aptitude, giving a shit and just plain ol chic from Venus were more of hindrance than i thought possible. My buddy and i did it the next time 15 minutes, second try and she was pinned and ready to dig. Adder: my wife and i were in flat concrete and my buddy and i were in a crooked, uneven prairie surface. No chics allowed in the barn, using tools, or driving the equipment. lol just kidding, kind of.