Bro your original cap was a 0.8 you put on a 2.0 bar, that's over twice the pressure. Apparently a lot of people are buying this cap that is over twice the pressure bar. If you would have had a 0.8 bar cap you would have been good. "It's not the arrow, it's the Indian"
Iv had them on 2 bikes, i love them. First ride though i found out what many peoples issue is....they are not turning them on all the way. It feels like its turned on tight, but u have to turn it harder another 1/4 turn while pushing down for it to seal properly. Having a catch bottle might have saved your motor too
@@tieoneon1614 well either way, I bought the tusk radiator fan with temp readout which is nice. I’m glad you had better luck with yours as mine is probably a fluke
If anything this should save your engine and not leak that's why I'm putting one on now my stock 1.2 blows antifreeze out the overflow on warm up I'm cool
You need the same psi as what’s on the cap it will cause too much pressure in your radiators and make the hoses blow, on my yz 125 I have a 1.1 so 2 would be way to much pressure for mine just a thought
You do know that if your engine and cooling system is running properly it should never go over 200-210 degrees and it wouldn't matter if you put a 1.1 or 10.1 cap the pressure will remain the same in your radiator and cause no damage.
@@seatime674that is so wrong. Yes it does mater the pressure because the thermostat will try to keep coolant at 195-205 no matter what and that is completely disconnected from the radiator cap. If you ride somewhere hot and your coolant boils then A higher pressure will prevent that but you risk blowing/bulging coolant lines. Especially in cars where if it’s rated for 13psi and you give it 18psi you will blow out your heater core.
@@ericmckinney1829 Yes but you missed my point. I said if your engine is running "Properly" and never exceeded 210 degrees then it still wouldn't matter if you had a 1.0 or 10.0 psi cap because it would never boil... In extenuating circumstances you might need to adjust.
I tested with MY Honda AX-1, working fine and with no problems. Fan stat and stop ok, after cool water level ok. but there is a small doubt , Fan starting temperature is around 110C (230F) and fan off is 105C (221F). I guess my sensor is a 100C (or 85C) switch-ON. The Reason for this could be the top and bottom temperature difference of the radiator? because the sensor is at the bottom of the radiator. What you guys thinking about this, any problem with my temperature sensor switch ?
You have a 2.0 Bar Tusk cap. What is the original? If you have too much pressure in the cooling system the engine will overheat and you could blow out gaskets or hoses. For example: If original cap is a 1.1, and you installed a 2.0...yep...bye bye motor.
The original is like .8 or something. If you look at the reviews on RM’s website you’ll see similar outcomes, which I wish I did before putting this cap on. It’s just not a good cap, but good idea though.
Most motocross use a 1.1. Those temp guage caps come in 1.8 which might be better than 2.0.. 1.1 is 15psi and a 2.0 is 29psi, 1.8 is 26.5 psi...It just raises boiling point so coolant doesn't leak out and evaporate as fast with higher pressure, breaches a hose is worst case.. I have the 1.8 and its a bear to tighten you have to press really hard but works great.
I bought a tire from them which was clearly warped on the tread and didn’t spin true. They did nothing about it. RMATV sucks. Never again will I give them $
Lol I do get a lot of these comments. The tusk is actually rated higher. It’s just a crappy design. Similar reviews are on rmatv website. I wouldn’t ever chance my bike for this 20 dollar cap
Fair enough my man just a thought,if the psi is more than what the cap should be it wil cause more pressure and the coolant will not do its job properly
Sadly no. It’s rated much higher than the oem cap which is what’s on the bike now and works fine. Read the reviews on their website and you’ll find similar outcomes.
