@@Bransaurus Set resin like what he’s messing with is safe but when it’s waiting to be mixed of pored into a mold it’s best to wear a mask. When sanding anything it’s safer to wear a mask and protective eyewear.
Great tutorial! About the magnets: I usually scratch the "outside" with sandpaper and store the pair together to have a visual indicator and the glue won't complain about a better adhesion surface either.
Awesome work on this first episode of your resin kit building tutorial, Henry. You covered so much in a succinct, straight-forward manner. I just started my first resin kit. I've done a bit of preliminary clean-up and am finding it a great material to work with. It files and sands a lot easier than plastic imo. Many thanks for the tutorials.
This was an extremely helpful video. I'm getting ready to build my first kit and the information provided by Henry was so insightful and explained in an easily understandable way.
My go-to cleaner is a small gun part ultrasonic from brownells. I also water my purple power down a bit, but I'm cheap so... :D Great videos as always!
Thanks for yet another informative, helpful video, Henry. If I could offer one criticism, it's that videos like this one might be even better as a series of shorter videos (10-15min) videos. It would really make for easier referencing when I'm searching back through the videos on your channel later.
I've always been interested in resin kits but I would never dare try one. Would be way too scared I'd mess it up, also I doubt I have the patience. Great video though, very informative.
Just curious, but can you use a heat gun instead of boiling water to reshape resin pieces? I'd think that if boiling water won't hurrt/melt the parts, then a heat gun won't either.
Re: drilling for magnets. I would like to advise starting with a smaller size drill for holes larger than 3mm. Step up to final size to prevent possible cracking.
Hey man great video, very detailed and useful. A question: where do you buy all the joints I saw hanging on your wall? I looked for them online and there's not much. I only found a couple of Japanese stores but never even got an answer🤷♂️ ... any advice?
Not related, but was wondering: How do you deal with scratching during final assembly. I ask because I'm currently doing a final assembly for a MG Blitz Jeanne custom and I'm running into that problem in some areas (mostly joint areas, but I had one candy area scratch badly and I had to strip the paint off it). Cause nothing says to hell with you like working your ass off on a candy custom and your parts get scratched.
Hey Henry I have a question about the purple power, I paint with brushes and use acrylic paints and I messed up and didn't clean the brushes properly and they dried I was wondering if I can use purple power to fix the brushes or should I get new brushes thanks for the advise in advance.
I'm going to buy some of those 0.15 Madworks chisel blades based on your recommendation. Will an X-acto knife hold those 0.15 blades or do I need to get a holder as well? Thanks.
I'm planning on doing a resin conversion kit for the RG Mudrock Gundam, which uses the RG Gundam's frame. the only thing that has me worried are the shoulder cannons. I still want the kit posable when all is said and done, so...how would I go about the cannons? just a really small drill and metal pins? or is it a little more than that?
I always wandering how to do the magnet connection I thought you need to put a extra plastic sheet to "bury" it, or it will be sucked out by the other one instead of stay in there anyway, great tutorial!
Great video! I've been eyeing up some resin parts kits lately so got some good tips from this, cheers! By the way I like the handy sanding tool you're using at 8:51 Has it got a name and where'd you get it from?
Yeah, I really want a Galluss-K conversion kit, although I have no idea where to get one if there are any left on the market at this point, plus my painting skill level is very low...
Replying to an older comment, I know, but your statement is just not true (in terms of Gundam kits). There are many types of resin Gundam kits. Some ARE fixed kits, but these are more like figures rather than Gundam kits as many would know them as. Another type is 'Conversion Kits' or 'Detail Ups.' (GK Conversions, Garage Kit conversions, Resin Detail-Ups, etc), which use a base Bandai kit as the skeleton. Some or all of the Bandai outer pieces are replaced by the resin pieces, usually creating a kit with a Bandai skeleton for posing and mish-mash of Bandai outer parts combined with resin parts. These kits retain most or all of the posability of the base kit. In no way are they in a fixed pose. Note: Detail Ups replace some or all of the official Bandai outer parts with more detailed, paneled or redesigned, resin parts. In the end, the Mobile Suit is the same type, such as a MG 1/100 Zaku II High Mobility R2 -> MG 1/100 Zaku II High Mobility R2. Conversions, on the other hand, replace the official outer parts with more detailed resin parts, but it's aimed at creating an entirely different MS (in most cases, one that Bandai doesn't make kits for). This would be something like a 1/60 PG Zaku II -> 1/60 PG Gouf. The third type are 'Scratch Build Kits' (GK's, Garage Kits, etc). These can be completely fixed, but as mentioned above, fixed kits are more like figures rather than traditional Gundam kits. Scratch builds can also be posable by using different methods to achieve the posability. Some come with their own poly caps (sometimes borrowed from official Bandai kits), some come with resin or metal pin-like parts, some require DIY pinning. The most creative ones I've seen use Lego pieces that you may or may not need to trim with nippers. No matter what method is used, these kits do not require a base Bandai kit (ie, they are 100% resin, minus whatever is used for the joints), and yet, they acheive some degree of posability. These kits are still not snap builds like the Bandai kits, so they require a lot more work. Despite the resin kit type, all resin kits require additional work when compared to traditional snap-built Gunpla kits. Trimming, filing, sanding, priming, painting, and gluing are all required. You may get away without having to pin, as in the case with conversion kits, but scratch builds (whether fixed or posable) will likely require pinning for at least some parts. And to anyone who managed to read through this long-winded comment and is afraid to attempt resin kits... DON-T BE AFRAID!. It would be best to get yourself experienced enough first with regular Bandai kits though. Work your way up from Entry Grade (or skip this grade entirely), then High Grade (this is where I began over a decade ago, before Entry Grades even existed), then Master Grade, and then Real Grade. Then try a Perfect Grade if it fits your budget and fancy, but it isn't necessary and in many cases, Real Grades are just as challenging. Honestly, if you can understand removing nub marks, gaps, and seam lines; gluing parts without fixing the pose (despite the kits claiming to be snap-builds and not requiring glue); as well as priming and painting and/or painting details rather than using the stickers (all this despite paint not being required by Bandai), then you can certainly build a resin kit. When doing resins, start with Conversions though. They are far easier than scratch builds. Side comment: I have Conversions, Detail Ups, and Scratch Builds. Most of mine are Conversions, combined with a few Detail Ups (some of which simply convert one MS type to a different variant of the same MS type, such as a different type of Geara Doga), as they are more common. I do have a Scratch Build 1/100 Woundwort, but haven't built it yet (still in my back log).
The only resin kit I've ever wanted was the MG 1/100 Sword Calamity, which used the 1/100 MG Freedom 1.0 frame. So I skinned it, but never got the resin kit. However now that I know how tedious the process is, I'm reconsidering after all these years
I live in the UK and couldn't find Purple Power or Simple Green for cleaning my first resin kit. I ended up using diluted "sugar soap" powder. It's a degreasing solution usually used by painter/decorators to clean and degrease surfaces (usually old painted woodwork) to ensure paint adhesion. It seems to have done the trick with no adverse effects on the resin. After the sugar soap bath, I scrubbed the parts with dish washing liquid. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sugar_soap
just so you know you're doing "the magnet trick" wrong. connecting one magnet to another magnet is just a waste of a magnet. instead what you should be doing is putting a magnet on one side and then a piece of metal on the other, preferably a metal that magnets are attracted to.
