Tutorial: Oil Weathering Techniques for Dark Yellow Model Tanks 

Glad it was helpful!

+Adam Mann Thanks Adam

+Non-Prolific 1/35th Scale Model Builder Thanks Jens :)

+HDAmodelworx Thank you very much!

+bob ahnert Thanks Bob!

+Colonel Reb's Scale Models Thank you!

No problem man; thank you for watching and commenting! Always really appreciated

Thank you Felis!

Thanks James!

Thank you!

+Chris Brown thank you Chris. I should have more oil videos up soon!

Thank you! It's really not that hard

Thank you very much James :)

Thanks Terry!

+Jack Armstrong III Thanks Jack!

Once again, thank you very much for your comment, Russell! I'm glad you enjoyed it. The filter? It's just to tone down the camouflage usually and kind of unify all the colours. What specifically do you want to know?

Thank you Lukas!

+Harry Houdini Thank you for watching, Harry! Hope you find use in this video :)

thank you :)

:)

thank you Jan :) can you link me that video?

ok i'll take a look tomorrow, it was some sort of live tutorial with about 50 spectators.

thank you Phil :)

Thank you Chris!

+Panzermeister36 Wondering if you can help me with something PM36? Do you apply the oils directly over your paint? I tried some weathering using oils/streaking grime and white artist spirits, after I had clear coated my vehicle with Tamiya TS-80. The mineral spirits seemed to form a white fog (known as silvering I think) on my vehicle. Just curious if you have run into similar issues.

Chris S Hello Chris. I've never run into that issue, but I have am idea of what it might be. Is that Tamiya clear coat enamel based? If so then the mineral spirits might attack it, as mineral spirits are what is used to thin down enamel paints as well as oils. I've never used that clear product before though.

+Panzermeister36 Thanks for the response. The Tamiya aerosol dull coat isn't clearly labelled, other than Isobutyl alcohol and Isobutyl acetate with an acrylic resin. Luckily I was testing the bottom of my vehicle so the damage can be hidden, but it really was very noticeable and the silvering appeared within ten seconds of applying the white spirits. I have searched the web for similar problems and found nothing. Just to note, I have used the AK streaking grime before on untreated Tamiya paints before and had great results. Pretty sure I learned about the from one of your reviews. My plan is to spray the bottom of my vehicle again with Testors lacquer and try streaking with spirits again. If that doesn't work I will use the Tamiya X-20A thinner to make my streaks. It seems to work but the results are the same compared to using spirits. Maybe this experimenting will work out. lol. Thanks again

Ah alright! Thanks for the info. As you said there I just usually streak AK paints and the like with enamel thinner over unsealed Tamiya acrylics and it's always perfectly fine. The Testors lacquer should do the trick; I know guys use that to seal. Good luck, and hope it works out for you!

thank you Benny!

thank you for the awesome comment! I'm glad you're enjoying my work

thank you :)

It's from Ace Combat. Truly an excellent soundtrack!

Thanks Matthew :)

Thanks, Vortex

Thank you!

Thank you Ian! I agree. Vehicles didn't really last long enough to get very chipped and worn, but dust and dirt gets everywhere immediately.

+Rodrikingovy modelářská videa CZ/ENG thank you

Thanks for the comment :) I'm glad you enjoyed it

Thank you very much. Yes I don't ever use a gloss coat, so I don't have any recommendations there...but for a matte coat I always use Testors Dullcoat. Really you should seal between layers but I don't and I've never really had a problem with it. I like to work fast so waiting a couple of days for the clear coat to dry doesn't work for how I do things.

Glenn Waterfield Thank you! I'm glad it was helpful :) I'm pretty sure I used Raw Umber, which is a dark, toned-down brown. It's not too important what the colour exactly is, I just usually use a brown like that...so not too dark, and not too intense....just a boring brown colour with a hint of grey to it. i dont usually mix in grey, I just mean a brown that doesnt look like a muddy brown. If you're doing deeper chips than a more reddish brown does a good job of mimicking exposed primer/a bit of rust. Hope that was a good explanation :) feel free to ask me anything else!

Panzermeister36 u

I'm not sure, but those sound they would cause problems with the underlying acrylic base paints. Turpentine or white spirits or enamel thinners are the best.

Cool. Thanks

No, Tamiya acrylics are very durable...they should be as durable as any varnish. Now if you applied a weak primer (AK or vallejo) underneath the Tamiya them you may have some issues. Also note that your Tamiya paints may have dried very matte which is not ideal for working with oils. I prefer a satin finish.

I usually don't seal them afterwards since they are a final step for me...but when I do I use XF-86 flat clear by Tamiya thinned about 70% with X-20A, airbrushed on.

+Ellis Pawson Thanks Ellis!

Acrylic lacquer should go well over top of the oils after they have completely dried. Just make sure they are in fact all dry since that may take a couple of days. I usually don't seal after the oils since not much weathering happens after that. If I were doing a pinwash or filter or streaking grime (something enamel based) after the oils then I would seal it, but I do those before or during the oil stage. Usually I just do chipping afterwards which is acrylic paint and doesn't affect the oil paints.

I don't because I find that gloss makes the surface too smooth for the oils to work nicely.

Thanks Glenn! I'm not too sure....you could always do a dot filter or some rendering effects (like the fading I did here) with lighter colours and see if that lightens the effect? That will also tone down the camouflage a little more though, probably.

Thanks so much. I will try a panel and see if it helps. I think I just left the oil on the pallette too long and it thickened. So when I applied it there was too much paint on my brush.

So I did two things. 1) wet the Hetzer with thinner and then scrubbed lightly with a paper towel on all the panels. Helped a lot. Then 2) I mixed some light yellow and light green to filter the darker spots. It was very tricky to get the right color. I didn't bother with the brown. It looks MUCH better. I am very happy with it. WIsh I could post a pic. Thanks again, Panzermeister!

Awesome! I'm glad it worked out for you :) and thanks for letting me know too. You can email me a photo at panzermeister36@gmail.com if you'd like!

Hey Mike. I actually have a video on this where I did some oils on a panzer III. I'd recommend you use greys and blues rather than white.

Panzermeister36 Thanks.I tried some cobalt blue for highlighting and paynes grey for shadow.

+Joe Makes Model Kits Thanks Joe! If you want to know anything Tiger you should check out Adam Mann's channel

Use the same thing green and yellow that color was on all fronts of wwll

Not really, the initial 20 or so Tigers were panzer grey and the rest were all painted in tropical camouflage up until and including the battle Kursk. German camouflages are actually quite complicated.

@@Panzermeister36 I have done them all, green and yellow look the best that is just my opinion

+Shockwave I did a tutorial on how I do chipping with acrylics here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-V5qh5IkeHcU.html

You can do similar effects with enamel paints, but I find that oils are easier to use as they take longer to dry and are thicker out of the tube

I don't even gloss coat it because I know the paints I use won't rear badly with each other. If you're unsure about that then you should apply a satin or gloss coat before the weathering effects.

No, acrylic thinners won't work with oils, and neither will water. You'll need some oil thinners, but you can probably find some for cheap at your local artist's store. Just ask the employees and they should help you out. You could also try lighter fluid, as that should work with oils too. I use Wilder thinner and I'm pretty sure it's just lighter fluid....

Thank you very much sir!

60% XF-60 10% XF-4 30% XF-2

Nothing. I just use good quality oil paints and apply them in thin coats.

Rhank you Sander :) Yes I'm muddying up the StuG now

I find that I can blend away that "tide mark" you speak of if I rub at it with a large soft brush when the thinners there are still just a little bit wet.

Yea I have tried that on the T-10 I did works great sort of a dry blend weathering, I really liked the result.

Yes usually I work over a satin or semigloss surface when doing oil paint weathering.

@@Panzermeister36 ok thanks. That helps me a lot

+tyler windecker I never clear coat my models before I've completely finished the weathering process. I use thinners that won't react with any of the underlying products. First I sprayed Tamiya paints for the camouflage and thinned those paints with Tamiya's lacquer thinner. That thinner i find makes them a lot more durable and spray better too. Next up, the filter, and then the wash/streaking effect (combined into one here by leaving the wash a little thick and then playing it down the panels). Both of these products were enamel based and use the same thinner, but since the filter is a light effect on only really visible on the green areas, the streaking grime doesn't do anything visually to this filter; most of the streaks were done on yellow areas (i did some on the green later with oils as I show in the video). Then I did some acrylic chipping with paints that would have been re-thinned/attacked on the model by those last two products, but since i did it afterwards then there is no issue. Finally, all the oil paints, and the thinner i use here only thins oil paints so it does nothing to the previous effects. I know that the enamel thinner will thin the oil paints too, so this is my oils go on after those washes and stuff. Of course, I do this because I'm lazy and don't like waiting for any clear coats to dry, so this way its fast and pretty easy. Just working in layers ;)

ok i see. thanks for the tip! keep these great videos coming, i really enjoy them.

For the oil paint or what I used to spray the camouflage pattern?

The Camo green was XF-21, the green oil paints were Green Earth and Emerald Green, which are standard colours.

I like Dragon and Trumpeter, however they are more complex than Tamiya. Still very fun to build and not too hard, except sometimes Dragon has confusing instructions.

Ok...thanks and good work

Recent experience of an Academy Hetzer was good. Kit went together really well.

TheThirdMan​ True; I haven't built any of them, but Academy makes a couple of Hetzers that are supposed to be very good. Link and length tracks too :) Thanks for letting me know!

Hobbie boss and academy depending on skill set all others more difficult

The brands I use are pretty cheap and will last me forever. About $5 Canadian per tube.

+Alan Dance what colours wood you use for a Sherman and panzer grey

+Alan Dance on a green Sherman I'd use a beige, a dark green, and maybe a little turquoise but not too much if any. For panzer grey I would use a white, a dark blue, and some medium brown or beige

any chance of a video on Dot filters

+Alan Dance I'm working on one now

+James mair Yes it is! Love those games and their soundtracks

The old paints or the base colours of the camouflage?

Extra tracks would for sure. Running tracks wouldn't as they're constantly in use. If you're curious, go look for original colour photos of Panzer IIIs or IVs.

These tanks were refitted from other StuGs and Panzer IIIs and were used as training vehicles so the numbers wouldn't be too important anymore.

Also those are just about the best brushes I can get around here. All the local art stores were of the same chain and all closed down.

+gao yu They are hatches on a normal StuG III hull. This StuG III is one refitted from a Panzer III and so those are not openable hinged hatches; they're removable panels.