Tying into gas pipe 

+richard wysham - Good tip! I’ve rounded off plenty of galvanized water pipe trying to remove them to tie into. Not so much black pipe but I can see where it would help to stay on point with the jaws. Thanks for the comment!

42, thanks for sharing this. Lots of us don't use a pipe wrench all that often. Nice to know this. Thanks.

How do you feel about those new auto pipe wrenches? I like my old heavy ones but I’m stubborn.

+ElementofWorship - Wow! Thanks for the kind words! Glad it helped out 👍🏽

+Michael McCrimmon - Right on man! Thanks for the comment! 😎

As a master gas fitter that is the only way to do it correctly

he changed the pipe from 1/2" to 3/4" - not the same thing

@@SJAndrewbsme ok lol same result. Changing the size pipe at that point accomplished nothing

@@emeralddragon2010 if you are adding a larger water heater or larger oven, you may need a larger flow of gas to supply the larger burners. We are putting in a commercial oven in our kitchen and it requires min 3/4” supply. Our has came with 1/2 off the main trunk line. I am making this exact modification.

@@SJAndrewbsme what kind of an idiot puts a commercial over in their kitchen lol

Drip pocket will never have to be emptied

Home improvement stores sell for about 6 $ small bottles with a non-corrosive liquid that one applies on the joint and if there is a gas leak bubbles will be noticed easily. Pipe shall be anchored if needed, some places do require metal ad hoc supports (from stores), and in others wood hangers ok.

This just helped me so much , shows you can use a compression fitting so you don't have to take a part the rest of lines , because there all threaded , so some one like me who want to run gas out to my garage I have cut just like he did , add a tee and add union fitting to the other side.. with out having to un tread the rest you can only spin into one side , leaving the right side unspin able , bc its already tight in place .. unless you un tread the whole run ... very help ful awesome video

@@davidfrisch5538 if you aren’t a plumber don’t do it.

Went from 1/2" to 3/4" down

@@davidfrisch5538 you cannot use compression

@@otisbigsby it's already done .. I ment to say union

david never use pipe wrenches or anything with teeth on brass. always use crescent wrenches

richard wysham I'm a plumber and I've never heard of a left right nipple and coupling. What is it?

Victor Bingo I'm sorry. A right left nipple and coupling. Are you serious? I'm going to take your comment at face value. I'd hate to go through the explanation for nothing. Unions are not code(or wise) in a concealed location. The right, left nipple and coupling have left hand threads on one end of the nipple and one side of the coupling. As you tighten the nipple in one direction, it tightens the nipple in the other direction. The way to insure that it is tight in both threads. i.e. not tight in one and loose in the other, you count how many threads they go in. Say, 2 1/2 threads on one and 1 1/2 threads on the other, handtight. So, you start the one, running it in 1 thread before starting the other. They are used when installing a tee in a run, instead of a union. If done properly, much more effective than a union. Make sense?

richard wysham we don't have those around here, the "break" joint has to be a union and it can't be concealed. Pittsburgh. Thanx for the reply.

If it ignites what's gonna happen?

@@latenight6815 maybe a trip to the hospital. :) Or possibly the morgue. But imo if it does catch fire the worst that will probably happen is any residual vapors will ignite and shoot a flame (briefly) out of any openings in the system

@@stinky817 probably true... as long as there is no active supply. The way some of these fear-mongers talk on here that someone will totally blow up their neighborhood and everything all the way back to the gas companies supply and then the gas company!

It's called a union and it is a flare fitting, the threads don't make the seal, no need for pipe dope.

Never put dope on flare fittings, if u do, when u tighten the joint dope will go into the pipe and the liquid gas flow will carry it all the way to the small orifices of the burners and plug them up.

+Nathan DePrinzio - the 1/2" line on the left is feeding a gas fireplace. The 3/4" line I cut was from the meter I just continued the 3/4" down to feed an on demand water heater. Thanks for the comment!

My apologies, from what I saw it looked like you had cut the 1/2" line and upsized to 3/4'. Either way, looks great!

+Nathan DePrinzio - no worries 😉

+Bill Carroll - Thanks Bill! The reason I cut my line was I needed to continue the 3/4" line to a new tankless on demand hot water heater I was upgrading to. If your trying to get a 1" tee exactly where you want you'll have to cut out your line between connections and install a union or a left right coupling to adapt your new fittings too. 1/2" to a stove is usually ok! Thanks for the comment!

So I understand your comment, it is OK to cut the main in the middle of the house to add the TEE? After I shut the Main off at the meter how do I drain the pipe of Natural gas to avoid any sparks and fire?

+Bill Carroll - I always recommend you have a licensed gas fitter look at your project before you start cutting your gas line. If your not comfortable working with natural gas lines I suggest having a professional check it out.

Thank-you for the Vid everything went great and new stove is in place and operational.

It’s a union compression fitting they don’t need it make sure you always test for leaks after installation.

@@RemodelGC Thanks, I learned a lot from the video.

@@RemodelGC Correct you do not need compound but your wrench placement is incorrect. One wrench on the union flange and the other on the captive nut. The wrench on the tee is not providing any mechanical advantage. All the force is being placed on the elbow connection....just FYI.

Yes it can probably be done, the existing gas pipe size should be sized big enough to handle the load of the stove I'm guessing

@@xdblockx85 thanks alot

If I understand your problem correctly, it sounds like you didn't use a union as he did in the video. This allows you to tighten all parts on each side of it with the union going together last. That is its purpose.

@@jaepeadee thank you you were right on. Everything went well

Union

+50sikstang - it's a gas pipe union fitting Home Depot or Lowes usually have them in stock. Thanks for the comment!

Black iron pipe Coupling

+birdwing98 - I was taught to fill the threads completely. I guess I never thought about which direction I went. Maybe try practicing clockwise to make your instructor happy. Thanks for the comment!

birdwing98 it only matters with ptfe tape. Must be clockwise or it will unravel when you thread it.

+Jamie C - Never heard of putting in a vent on a gas line? I would consult with another gas professional.

the vent is on the regulator. you have high pressure gas in the street. you may need the gas company to check your regulator to make sure it's functioning properly if the problem persists.

+C.M. Seamster thanks for the reply, thats what it was "a faulty regulator" The gas company came an replaced no charge.

Any pipe joint compound you can brush on will work this was by Oatey 👍🏽

The 2 $ a joint, but use it after work done with only.

+Amy Mimi Braiding to Couponing Young - I imagine it could be? Might double check with a plumber in your area to be sure! Thanks for the question!

See how many BTUs the dryer will need. Then check how many BTUs your pipe can deliver. Usually 3/4 is perfect.

Check the title, he is changing to 3/4" down pipe for more BTU's. Easy to miss. I didn't see it at first. I didn't know that you could put a union in a gas pipe.

@@hermanwulf6677 Didn't notice, but yeah where I live unions are required. Cut off, union, drip tube, regulator. flair nut adapter or black iron pipe.

It is needed for the impurities of the gas flow to drop/collect in. I myself did never find any significant sediment in those that I opened but installing them is a requirement though.

I only speak english, if you have a question please ask in english. (aking lamang mag ingles , tanungin mo naman sa ingles).

I love you tomorrow song

Not much gas with zero pressure to make a significant explosion.

+Lauren Hanahan - Glad it helped you out! You know you can't please everyone especially on RU-vid. 😊 Thanks for the comment!

Is that what it’s called? What he uses to make the last horizontal connection? Looks like large hex nuts making a connection.

+Mike Carroll - Right on! Good suggestions for our DIY friends! Thanks for the complimentary comment! 😎👍🏽

Also you can save time by tightening the last fitting instead of doing them all separate. (ex): your last tee you did you can hand tighten the nipple valve and plug all and just put a wrench on the plug to further tighten them all at once. Good vid and glad to see you wipe your joints. Be safe

You are Pro Sir

Danny Combes no. Do one fitting at a time and you will know they are all tight. Don’t tighten the furthest fitting.

A pro would know to use a three quarter bite to avoid egging the pipe.

The problem was the line to the left goes to a gas log and right was the meter before the drop both lines are 20+ feet and you would have to disconnect it all to add that fitting. Unless there’s a way to do that with out disassembling or cutting I’d love to see a video on that. 👍🏽

yes sir

cryobi

RANDOM STUFF Lol, I was unsure what brand that even was. If it isn't yellow, red, or orange I can't tell them apart. Ryobi? Hitachi? Kobalt? Idk.

The most impressive part of this video, he cut off the reciprocating blade short to get the cut accomplished.

Lol

Tobin Bybee That's not correct. The blade came just like that out of the pack.

An extra $300. That's why.

He went from 1/2" down to 3/4" down. No way to get the tee off to increase diameter without cutting the horizontal run.

Kind of contradicted yourself. If the pipe dope is just lubricant, like you said, why does it matter if it's natural gas rated?

open a valve somewhere (stove)

Some places forbid LR nips.

Your old T have one 3/4 for main line and divided to two 1/2 so just use new T for tow side 3/4 and one side 1/2 .

+Tbird 62 - Reciprocating saw blades don't make many sparks if any, use a fine tooth blade. But definitely shut off your gas at the meter and bleed (open) the line before cutting it. Thanks for the comment!

RemodelGC Thanks! I wondered if that's why you took the yellow connector loose, to bleed some gas out. Helpful stuff!

they are allowed in California, but they must remain accessible. I have one at my meter installed recently by a plumber.

+Happy Camper - Right on! Thanks for the comment! 😎👍🏽

+Cong Nguyen - Rule of thumb is always go bigger in pipe size when adding length to a line. You can try your 1/2" pipe and worst that will happen is your grill will just be starved for gas and may not heat as much? You can also search for gas pipe calculators on Google to get a better idea for length to btu conversions. Good luck!

@@RemodelGC As I understand it, starving an appliance of gas due to an undersized pipe has two problems. First, as you say, the appliance will not heat as much. However, doesn't supplying too little gas (due to an undersized line) also create the potential for carbon monoxide?

He increased the size from 1/2 inch to 3/4 in. Unnecessary in my opinion.

@@adamt253 necessary for most tankless water heaters

@@TheTyrebyter just for 5feet? 🤔

I made sure the gas was off and then removed the closest valve to where I was cutting so all the gas could escape. If you use a fine tooth metal blade it doesn’t make sparks like it would if you used a grinder! 😉 Thanks for the Comment!

I was always told to not cut it that way. It’s not going to kill u if it pops on that small of a line, but it could damage the gas valves from over pressurization on ur other appliances.

+Alowishis - Sometimes you need to add an appliance in the middle of an existing line or in my case, I needed to increase the line size from 1/2" to continue the 3/4" to a on demand hot water heater. Thanks for the comment! 😎