I just subscribed to your channel because you seem like my kinda people. I also like how sometimes you don’t sound like you really know, but we know you really know. I think that’s good for everybody. Can’t wait to check out the rest of your videos.
It may be that you don't want symmetry in your air flow in some circumstances. Except when the port is centered on the panel you will not have symmetry and even then that assumes that it is in a cylindrical enclosure. The asymmetry will spread out resonances which may have benefits.
Thank you for the presentation! 1. I believe you find tubular parts more objectionable when it comes to chuffing because all that chuffing will be at a single frequency related to the diameter as opposed to a slotted port even though, as you correctly say, slotted ports or for more air resistance interviews. 2. It is a good bet, that flares are placed on the outside of cabinets by manufacturers because it looks better. Flares on both ends are, all of the things being equal, more optimal. You can't sell the customer can't see except perhaps on Instagram. Thanks!
ive been building speakers since the 80s. i am also a contractor . i realise something that might help in speaker design. square spaces, unlike round, dont echo.
I'm super interested but get confused so quickly.. ugh. The same dyslexic feeling I got in math class at school. Just gonna end up paying someone to build a box with the right aero port.
Dont feel bab brother I'm with u. Math is so hard for me. But I still try. You can build your own. Do your research and go with a easy slot port. Look on line they got sites that can help
I have 3 additions1. The less the surface area of the inside of the port the better. That makes a round tube better. I have a box where the ports are triangular ducts at each corner of the box. This helps make very strong corners but is terrible for the surface area, so the port is inefficient and noisy.2. Rectangular ports can be used for cabinet reinforcement. This saves lumber. Speaker box design is balancing the pros and cons of each decision, so although a round port may be most efficient a rectangular one may fit the design better.3. It is tempting to reduce the port area to shorten it, and this will work OK at low volume. But when you crank it up the port will get noisy and like the 4 port box mentioned above, the airflow is choked and the box detunes.
The box is 9th order. The speaker has both sides ported that leads to its own connected loading chamber, then port. That then leades to a new port. If you were to take away the green port it would be an 8th order.
One side flared port are used because if other end is flared they have to cut port in 2 parts and then reattach it! I'm also gonna use one sided flared port as my box maker gave normal PVC pipe as port which is making hell lot of chuffing noise!
I'm guessing because it's easier to insert one end of the port into the hole for a tighter fit . Then once in position , you can flare that end using a heat gun I personally use those aluminum lamp things that you clamp on anything to work on cars
Okay D. I use vented ports in my Ultra low Frequency 6th order dual reflex parallel enclosures. 2" × 18" P.A. and lentgh (D21 Kingcab example) 45" cone side and 2.5" × 18" by 33" motor side.
In my opinion, slot is not more efficient than a regular vented enclosure. Why? With a vent that uses 1 size of the enclosure as a wall - if built and designed correctly. you're only gonna have 1 or two dead spaces around the port. Because the air can only travel one way THROUGH and TO the port, it's more efficient. With a slotted port you have dead space all around the port and you'd have to put in 45's to reduce this OR flare it. + When air floats around the port this and doesn't automatically go towards the port because it has nowhere else to go, it would make it less efficient, IMHO.
BudgetBassHead no because the dead zone is directly around the port, I'm not talking about the entrance. I'm talking about the cornors where the slot touches the baffle, aka 4 dead spots all around the port where air could get trapped and have more trouble going around than a regular vented port where there usually are only two dead spots, which are easy to cornor and all algin the with the air flow because thw air has only one direction it could flow in and to.
This is really all by his dumb ass appenion but a slot port is turning 1 wall into a port I've got the same appenion as you but this dude is a dumb ass in my appenion
Ive always considered a "slot port" as using an outside wall of box for 1 side of port typically using the total height of box..so tall and narrow.......and square, round, hex etc. are all vents and typically self contained and vent thru one of the walls of box..love your channel
With a round aero port if the required length is say 12 inches does that include the flare at the end or is it a 12 inch port plus whatever extra length of flare you choose?
You cut tube without the fl flare attached 5 inches shorter then what you're required length is. (PRECISION PORTS AMAZON) Then attach Flare ends. The total length will be one inch longer then the required tuning length. If you are buying aero port kit (precision ports) it will come with 1 tube approximately 12" Long, 2 collars to attach Flares and of course 2 flare ends. Say you need a 10 inch long port! You subtract 5 from your required length, so cut it at 5". Take the 5" long tube and Glue the flare ends on, or you can tape them with a good strong duct tape so you can adjust your tuning if you like.. I prefer to glue them with PVC glue. Your 10" long port is now 11" with Flares, 1" longer! That is correct! A portion of the Flares on each side don't count for tuning total length, which is why your leng is now 11 and not 10. If you are going off specs of subwoofer to build the box, it will give you a recommended port area. This is for sloted ports built into the box.it might give you a square inch area of 14. , So your slot could be 7 in tall by 2in wide or however you figure to come up with 14 . With an aero report your area doesn't need to be 14, it can be close to half of that area with aero port, slightly over half to 3/4 or somewhere between the 1/2 and 3/4. To find the area of a circle/your aero port. Take half the diameter which is radius times itself then times pi (pi=3.145) ! 3" diameter pipe, radius is 1.5" 1.5 x 1.5= 2.25". 2.25" x pi (3.145)= 7.076 The area of your 3" diameter pipe is 7.076🤘🤘🤘
My old school 95 or 96 jl audio power-wedge box has a slot port. The inside is not optimal, only the exit has the flare for smooth exit. Not sure why, but I’m putting a type r 12 in it I hope if sound nice.
4:27 inside it's useless to flare cause only a tiny volume would benefit , while the air arround the port and inside the cabinet ( which is almost all of it ) will still have a "hairpin" to do . this can be solved by having a long curved port , ex: iLoud Micro Monitors or SVS PC-4000 . flare on the outside of the cabinet ( and off course adapting the cabinet front for that ) will do just fine 5:59 Klipsch RP-150M , but yeah it's rare . and many slot ports look squashed , ex: Presonus Eris E8 10:47 not shure if that looks like a "slot" 12:56 the cylinder shape takes air pressure equally on all sides , that's why it's so used in pipes , while the slot ones are less robust in the middle of the walls and they're prefered only for looks 15:34 sooner or later the loudspeaker will need to be replaced , so it's a "bad" design if you care about longevity there are also ports made of silicone , ex: KEF LS50 , which being soft will absorb a lot of resonance and shuffing they're OK if they're robust enough and have no sharp edges at all ( where the air is traveling ) the cabinet also needs to very robust and with "carpets" on the inner walls
1. Actually, you are semi right. You don't have to flare the inside, but it is recommended for SQ. 2. Slotted and vented are the same type of port. Location of the port doesn't change the deffinition. Just because it has four independent walls instead of only one or two, doesnt mean its a different port type. It is still a slotted port. 3. It is a slot port, I mean personally I would use it because the corners of the triangles would have so much rejection with the are traveling in and out that it would be audible, but still. It's a slotted port. 4. In Octo-port is almost as efficient as an aeroport. The only reason an error report is efficient is that the center of the airport and the outsides of it are always the same distance around allowing perfect air flow of waves. I'll see if I can send you to a video that explains this better. I don't want to have to write like Shakespeare. 5. It's not a bad design, all you have to do is make the top removable. It's easy to do with t nuts, a few bolts, and gasketing tape. 6. You don't have to have carpet on the inside of the walls. I don't know where you got that idea... unless you're talking about the debate where people think polyfill is needed on the inside of a ported enclosure. Which it is not. Ported enclosures do not benefit polyfill or any deadening material like that. the reason for that is because it's used in sealed enclosures to trick the speaker in the thinking there is more volume than there really is. this is mainly due to not having enough space under a seat and yet still wanting to locate a subwoofer there.
Love your vids! I’ve been building enclosures for 30years and your yellow port is a slotted port and your purple port is a square port. Correct me if im wrong please🤔
You don't have to lie and say you've been building enclosures for 30 years to know it was a mistake on his part. If you really had been making enclosures for 30 years, you wouldn't be asking for clarification on such obvious error. Call him out or don't, but don't lie and be passive aggressive. But to answer your question in case you REALLY want to know which is which. A slot port uses 3 sides of your enclosure as port walls. If the port is located at one end of the box, only one additional piece of wood is required to complete the port. The additional internal wall will have a space equal to the width of the port between its end and the back wall of the box.
Thanks for your vid I am glad to come across it on type of ports. I am leaning to vented or aero port because as a beginner it would be easier to build and probable easier to tune the box as well. I did not know these things about ports and I am truly glad you cleared that up for me. I will subscribe and like. I have one question though does it matter where the speaker is placed in a vented or aero ported box?
hey brother I have a question for u. I'm 50 years old and still love slamming base. am I too old for bass since more youngters are mainly into it? anyway I love your channel and I subscribed like a week or 2 ago, keep up the good work
I think your video, which is quite nice, would be easier to understand if you use the typical understanding of a port as any hole in an enclosure. And slotted ports might be distinguished as rectangular in shape as opposed to square ports. Thanks again for your great work!
So I have 2 Memphis 12” m7 in a custom 4.5 cubed box with a 8” octoport,I disagree with the cosmetic comment,I’m running the six five 2500 rms Memphis amp in my four door Honda Civic,and it slams so hard it will take you hat off your head and float it in the window and the subs are only 750rms a piece!!octoport is beyond great for my application
Alright my man. I got a situation. I have some nice 4 inch Dayton mids. I really want them ported but everything I model the port is ridiculously long for the tiny box I can use for the driver. What would you suggest. I've been looking at passive radiators but the cutoff slope seems too steep. Any thought or opinion is appreciated
William Toth this all depends on what you're trying to tune it to and also depends on how much real estate you have to work with or how much space you're willing to sacrifice
billy Johnson some people would say, yes. but in my own personal opinion I believe that it just enables cover of a broader frequency range. Each chamber gives you a passband of a certain frequency range. the more Chambers, the more bands or frequencies the enclosure is able to cover.
how does one go about calculating the length of a triangle port. Know that a triangle port is basically a square or rectangle port cut in half but should the port length remain the same ,doubled or cut in half of the original length of the square port? square port unfo High 5.50 Width 5.50 length 5.19
i would like to know how you would go about calculating the port length for a triangular port .I am making a dual 18 inch sub enclosure with a volume of 12.74 cu.ft tuned to 40Hz but idk how to go about calculating the port length to prove the required frequency and prevent port noise .
A picture of the box i am trying to build ignore the measurements they will be changed , i.pinimg.com/originals/9e/bf/5e/9ebf5ef3b42c66906a64e7986aee28fa.jpg
Just think of a triangle as being a rectangle or square cut in half (diagonally). So you still will have the same tuning as the one square port, just more ports now. but if you only want a single port, just measure square port, cut it into two triangles and then make one of the triangles twice as big.
firstly thanks for the reply ,but should the port length remain the same.For example if a square port has a length of 8 inches .Should the triangles be the same length or half of the original which would be 4 inches each since its now 2 ports???
I have a skar vvx 15 v2 and skar recommend 4 cubes and 40 square inches of port area which is 10 square inches of port area per cube. I have an 8 inch aero port and that is 50.265 square inches which is equivalent to 12.6 square inches of port area per cube. It would be 2.6 square inches of port area per cube more than what skar recommend. What's your advice?
The recommended port area is usually the 'safest' reference point. Anything more than that and you sacrifice compression and cone control. Of course, if you are good with managing your bass knob, you can prevent the speaker from unloading and bottoming out. Me personally I use software to manipulate the port area. I'm assuming you are tuning the enclosure to the recommended 36Hz. You'd need about 20 inches of the length with an 8 inch aero port. If you are looking for a 'rule of thumb' reference.... I simply follow the software.
I tried using winisd and I'm not getting a good graph for the vvx15v2. I also can't find the SD of the vvx15v2 on skar's website so I can't input the value of the SD into the software. It's really hard to find an aero port with the area that skar recommend so I guess I'll have to do a slot port instead.
Steven Albert the SD of the sub is it's cone area. You could easily measure that yourself. Google the formula for area of a circle and put your numbers in.
I'm going to ask a lot from you big dog I hope you can help me little dog is in a jam I ordered a box from Sonix Electronix but they wanted 250 for a ported 2 ft^3 box only the port was not 45 on the corners only the inside of the box then it took them 2 weeks to start making it I got mad and cancelled because they told me delivery was in 3 days I need help I have a skar evl 12 I wanted to make a ported box slot port with 45 on all corners and inner bracing if aeroport fine also just needed a double front wall 1 1/2in where the speaker screws onto is there any way you can help me with measurements I don't know much and I'm having trouble understanding how to build if you don't respond I completely understand I am asking alot have seen many your videos very smart and your videos are really good I'm just not good at math but I could build it if I knew measurements thanks I have seen the JL ho design would love to be able to build something like that if I had the measurements bet a standard slot ported or aeroport it box with the woofer and Port facing the same would be awesome thank you God bless won't be mad if you don't respond
Can I hire you to design a really good optimal box for a Sundown team ferrite with about 10,000 RMS I'd like to put it in a Crown Victoria I have the whole back seat and trunk to work with thank you
Love the use of SketchUp! One question about the port design. I want to make a 3D printed speaker. To make my life simpler, I am starting off with a manufacturer's spec for a 2 way bookshelf speaker. It shows 45mm diameter and 185mm long port. What I would like to do is 3D model (in SketchUp of course) and print the speaker and port. Since I can make a smooth and organic transition from the chamber to the port, how do I go about measuring the length? Do I measure just the portion that is 45mm dia and ignore the flared transitions in and out?
This is an excellent question. It really depends on a few things. Is it aero, slot or vented? End correction comes in play with a certain type of port. depending on the size of the flare you may have to extend the port. But a general rule of thumb is to add an inch when calculating flares. If you need 7.3in. make it 8.3 Check out this article: www.psp-inc.com/tools.html hope it helps.
So, its series from the driver out, 4th order means the sound has travelled through one port, add 2 for the rear to be ported, bringing it up to 6, add 2 for both ports to be ported, for 8th, then add 2 for that port to be ported, too, leaving the above to be a 10th order. If you have a 4th order, then add a port, then add a port, it should bring it to 8, not 12, though this having a sealed section i think brings it up to 12 or something. It's odd, thats for sure.
4th order is a sealed side and ported. 6th order is 2 ported sides. 8th order is a 6th order that feeds into another camber and port. The next is either a 10th or 12th order.
Aeroport is a trademarked brand. Why do you guys keep spreading this misinformation? There’s a standard port and a flared port. Aeroport is a brand of double ended flared port.
want to reduce port noise????? FIRST, tune your box lower !!!!!! air only goes in and out when you are below your box tune...... which is never good and causes your speaker to see "free air" and can blow your speakers. Second, add polyfill to your box. its reduces the airs flow .
Actually, air moves in and out regardless of the frequency it is playing at. Thats how ports work. Also, polyfill doesnt do anything for ported enclosures. Adding polyfill to an enclosure only works for sealed boxes. It's used to make the subwoofer think that there is more volume than there actually is. It's used whenever making a box that has to fit in an area that is slightly too small. Ported enclosures do not need polyfill, it doesn't do anything for a ported enclosure.
I know I'll get flamed for this, but enclosures are either sealed or ported. There is no vent, port, etc. No bashing, just saying. Btw, I do love the channel and find it very informative!
Sounds like you really dont know, you hust want to sound educated . A real educated person would have shared his thoughts to help, since this channel is for helping people. But no, you just want to sound like a douche bag