UJK Parf Guide System Mark 2 - Part 1 

One of the best step-by-step, clearly communicated and thorough walk through videos I’ve ever seen. Thank you and I’m subscribing.

I recently bought the Parf Guide System Mk2. After seeing this video I once again concluded that this is a great combination of a great idea and great engineering. In the product all pitfalls are taken care of and in this video Peter pays attention to every possible flaw when using the system. Many thanks for conceiving, building and presenting the product!

I just ordered one from TSO Products here in the US, can't wait to get started! Cheers

Hello Peter, I have just watched your exposition of the Parf Guide MK2 and I am now £200 worse off having just purchased the kit!!! 🙂 so looking forward to creating my own table. Thankyou so much for all your VERY clear video series. all the very best. In one of your videos (how to build a track saw cutting station) you mention some plans - not sure I understood how to get them - I put my e-mail in this and it appears in the comment so am resubmitting without the e-mail.

After 7 months of not being able to create my Parf Guide table, I was finally able to tackle it today. WHAT A WELL MADE KIT!!! In a world filled with cheap knock-offs and poor quality stuff. Everything about this screams quality. The tolerance, the well thought out design, wonderful dust management. I couldn't think of anything to improve upon the design. And most of all, DEAD NUTS accurate. I'm so glad I got this kit!

Peter, A great video and an extremely well thought out and beautifully precise system. I am a machinist and woodworker and I had considered developing a similar system for building an MFT top, but after seeing your system, I decided to purchase yours. The thought and quality of the build are exceptional and well worth the cost, especially given the fact that it allows for an infinite number of of tops to be quickly built, either in the field or in the shop, with machine shop accuracy. Thanks!

This is clearly very nicely engineered and made. I will add it to my vast list of tools I want. Thanks Peter.

Hi Peter, just discovered your channel and delighted. Excellent delivery and explanations, good job. Man after my own heart, I too am an ex software development engineer who again just loves wood and furniture making and no less, video making rather than stills photography. I see there seems hundreds of videos to get stuck into and some useful information to be had. Thank you for your efforts. Ray

Hello Peter. I have just received my Parf guide system mk 2 as a Christmas present. I been wanting one for years. Thank you for creating such a wonderfully made tool. I'm super excited to make my 1st MFT style top. You video are a huge help thank you

Used this today, after watching the videos and following the instructions... it’s so easy and so accurate. Great work :0)

Excellent piece of engineering Peter. I'll definitely be getting one in the next few months.

Simply brilliant! 😃 The little 2-part pin to join 2 Parf sticks. The special bushings with a 6mm protrusion and bushing for the custom drill bit assembly to guarantee a dead straight, perfect hole. And most of all, the elemental beauty of Pythagoras’ 3-4-5 triangle.

I purchased the original parf system from Lee Valley approximately 8 months ago. I must say I was very impressed with the engineering. I went to work and modified my mobile workbenches. My next undertaking is an out feed table for my saw stop table saw. This is a great way to spend ones time. It is strangely satisfying to produce a custom mft table. This new system is a step up to be sure. I will have to find a purchaser for my original Parf guide. Might have to spend some time convincing my good wife why that is a good idea. Congratulations on your development of a great piece of “kit”..

Great improvement with the bushed bit holder, this was one of my reservations regarding long term accuracy. Problem solved :)

Hi peter i just brought this ujk parf guide system yesterday and the dust collecter and drill bit . keep up great work.

Most undervalued product ever made!

Now that I've been improving my woodworking skills, I'll be order from TSO folks. Kudos to you, it's such a well engineered and thought out product. And typing a comment to feed the YT Algo overlords.

Thank you sir, i like your review, because all of your review videos are verry detail... 👍👍👍

Guess what arrived today.... my super fancy Mark 2 Parf Guide System. Peter well done. The quality is better then aircraft in my opinion. There was a note from TSO apologizing for the delay in shipment, one minute inspecting the quality of the product and I forgot all about the delays.The stop collar that came in my kit is way better than the described stop, the one I received doesn't have a set screw rather it is more like a clamp collar; again well done. I can't wait to start the drilling process tomorrow as I know it will be fun and thanks to you "Spot On"

Hi Peter, I order the Mark 2 from the UK before it was available in Australia, and love it. Amazed at the hole accuracy! I got very carried away and drilled out an entire 2400x1200 sheet. Which is rather handy but a blank section for assembly would have been a better idea. One thought I had for possibly an addition to the range, is a dog with the chamfer but cut flush with the surface. A 3mm hole in the centre could then be used for the aligning pin. A pair would allow you to go back and put a hole or several in an area that was preciously left plain. Just a thought. Keep up the great work!

Hi Peter, new to all this but what a brilliant system. I watched you, Matt Estlea and John McGrath use the system. I saw the problem John had and thought your answer was spot on. So I went ahead and ordered my kit from Axminster. As I was using a 2400x1200 sheet I took your advice and started in the middle (Hole 0 was approximately where 8 should be). I drilled out my first horizontal line and then the left hand perpendicular line followed by the right. So far so good. The fourth line completing the box lined up perfectly, so I now had a 10x10 hole square. Everything looked good. Every horizontal line across the 10 perpendicular holes lined up and I completed the grid. All still looking good. After watching Johns video I didn't extend the box using straight lines I made the triangle again and created a new base line. Same for the far left perpendicular line. Here is where my problem started. The top of that new section did not align. Like John, it did for the first 4-5 rows and then drifted out. So having seen Johns work around for the bad row I moved in 1 and tried again. same problem. I tried from the other side, new triangle, same problem. This lead me to doubt the accuracy of my original grid. On testing my original grid there were actually quite a very very minor errors. Even along lines drilled at the same time with the same guide. If you pin 0 and 10 of the guide you'd expect the third pin to go into all the holes in between with precision. they didn't. Occasionally, you would feel the guide move very slightly to accommodate the pin. I have checked my guide and they are accurate (as I saw someone did get a bad set) backwards, forwards, face to face and back to back I conclude that I must have been too heavy handed and must have applied some lateral pressure when drilling some of the holes. At 10.20 in the video you say there is zero movement from side to side, but, there is a very slight amount. I can't trust the accuracy of my current grid, so I will flip the board and start again. This time after I have drilled and pinned 0 and 10 I will do hole 5 and pin it to minimize any lateral flex. I could even use the other guide as a cross to ensure the hole 5 is accurate but you'd need another pin. The set comes with a 3 mm hss drill bit; did you ever try with a 3mm wood bit, would that not drive more true than hss? Any thoughts or suggestions please. Cheers Donal

I am ,apparently, late to this party but today I got my mk2 kit! Wow very well made and very fast shipping! I’m in the states and it got here faster than many shipments for within the states and that is just sad really. But this bit of kit is incredible thanks! Oh and the instructions that came with it included the layout for a standard mft table and also the the isometric layout! In case someone didn’t realize it. I didn’t even think there would be instructions with it

The best!

This is a super system, and I just finished drilling an entire 4 foot 8 MDF sheet (19mm). The pins and dogs fits VERY tight in the holes, making them extremely hard to pull out. After pulling them out hundreds of times,I am now the proud owner of blisters on my thumb and index finger, and suggest that MK III includes bigger and better handles, both for the pins and the dogs. So then, for all you out there: buy the vacuum extension and the festool dogs and some large knobs to save yourself some time and pain.

Peter, I feel like what is really missing from this is some guidance on where to initially start drilling, too close to the edge, the offset holes won't work, too far from the edge, wasted space. Thanks for the great tool and video.

Thanks Peter. The reason I was asking about the overlap; I drilled the horizontal 3mm holes and then drilled the left and right columns, but when I placed the ruler on the two holes north of the horizontal row, the two 3mm pegs wouldn’t go in (I could only fit one). In other words, the gap between the two holes were slightly closer (~ 1/2mm). I just took snapshots and at least one of my Parf sticks is warped. The holes don’t align with the other Parf stick holes. :( this caused a slight deviation in my 3mm drilled holes. I’m hoping TSO takes care of me.

Now Ron Paulk's "Ron's Tool of the Year for 2018"

Thank you, sir. I have purchased the mk2 and am gonna start drilling tomorrow

Nice video as always. Have to say though the music at the end is almost painful. Much preferred the old one.

I treated myself to the kit recently and finally hauled a sheet of mdf back home today. I need to decide how much to cut it back as I discovered the weight of a full sheet is close to my physical limit. I'm going to be building on some big toughbuilt sawhorses so I was inclined to go full sheet, but the weight may be too much. Hmm. I guess I could do two panels if I don't need to rely on alignment. Or fit some wheels on one edge! I'll report back.

I just received my Parf Guide from Axminster and am happy to report it made it here to Canada in excellent shape and all pieces accounted for. Looking forward to making my first MFT top. No 3/4” MDF is available here now due to a shortage so i got a sheet of maple plywood which should work fine. I bought a set of revision dogs too. I hope to layout all of the 3mm holes and then try to minimize the 20mm holes to what i think i need and incorporate a line 60 degrees and 30 degrees and 22 1/2 if that is possible. 😃 Trying to minimize dusty table saw and miter saw usage and get more use out of the track saw.

I may have missed it but I never catch where to start your holes. It just seems that you work out where you want to start. Is there a formula to calculate where to start? Love your videos and your teaching methods.

Hi Peter, Watching this again as I was a little "off" in my first effort last year as you know I thought of a small mod to the 3 mm pins which might make them more comfortable to use. I found they were a pretty tight fit and not easy to remove. Also, using your recommended technique for aligning the pin and pushing it into the predrilled hole with your hand must be a bit uncomfortable unless you have fairly horny hands. If the top of the pins were made in a " mushroom" shape, rather like a mini sock darner (for those of us who remember these!), then they would be much more comfortable to push in and also easier to grip the top when pulling them out. Maybe a worthwhile mod for Mark 3! Hoping to be back in the Workshop by late July once travel is possible again. WKR Mike

Thank you! The jig is brilliant and adding the bushed guide is a really nice touch. It looks like a quick release chuck like the Festool Centrotec really helps to stream line the drilling process. For those if us who don't have Festool drills, I was wondering if we could use an impact driver since they usually have quick release tool holders. Have you tried this? Would it be a problem if the driver went into "impact mode?"

After purchasing the Mk2 system and watching your application videos I have a question/suggestion on the design and accessories provided. If the system was provided with 2 revision dogs and the chamfer reamer there would be zero need for the 20 mm dogs or the offset design in the drilling guide. All drilling could be aligned with only the use of 3 mm pins. This would makes the tooling for the drill guide cheaper to assemble. It would also make the system a complete solution instead of having to purchase additional expensive oftentimes unavailable accessories.

Hi Peter, I love the PFII - so well engineered. Brilliant. For some jigs, I require holes that are 135.8mm apart (the diagonal of a 96x96 pattern). Can you think of an easy way to do this, other than laying out a pattern at 45 degrees to jig. I sometimes wished you had provided an offset hole at this spacing.

I got the original and along with my festool hk55, they’re my favorite tools :)

These look really top notch and defo on my need to get list 😉, some good tips included here as well 👍🏻 Peter should I get the mk1 or 2? Cheers Steve

Peter, very helpful video once again. How does one precisely go about locating that important first row of holes? If I’m not mistaken, that first row must be exactly parallel to the table edge, right?

Peter I am from Bristish Columbia Canada, and I purchased your Mark II drilling system, I'm absolutely thrilled with the accuracy. Great product, are you related to the famous Parfitt Brothers from Victoria British Columbia.

When starting the first row of holes at a right angle using the 6,8,10 method. I wish to make a aligning right angle jig out of aluminium to align a removable section. Don’t want it to be that big, just 2 or 3 holes in each direction. Can I use 1,2,3 or 2,4,6 to do this to make my alignment jig, with parf guide me 2? Great product.

Peter. Here in United States dog holes are typically 3/4 of an inch. I’m hoping your system will come with that sizing for us on the other side of the pond.

Hi Peter, Great products as ever! A quick question: Can I make the worktop out of Valchromat; can it be machined readily using the Parf Guide System. Also what thickness would you recommend? 18mm perhaps? Thanks Sam

So if I understand correctly, the Mark 2 achieves the same things as the first version except it does it a little more easily/conveniently?

Hi Peter. I have put a new top and apron onto my bench for the parf guide system. I have successfully marked out the grid and drilled all the 3mm pilot holes. I am more likely to need 45 deg cuts rather than the 60 deg shown in your isometric layout. Have you done a video showing the marking out for 45 deg? Thanks for all the excellent videos. Paul

Hey Peter! I made a very specific and also strange realization. About one week ago I received the mark II and I started building the cutting station. I did exactely the same as you did, also with the festool drill and I used as much pins as ever possible. I shamfered the holes, and I use the super dogs and the small pups. For cutting I use the ts 55. Everything is tight and perfekt, but: I did some test and found out that the cuts are on 50cm about 1mm out of angle wich is way to much then promised. I did different tests and in all tests I set the peace of wood I'd like to cut along the orthogonal line in the center of the board (wich is conftable for cutting smaller peaces). I was very frustrated but then I did a test with the orthogonal line right beneath my upper super dog (as you did in the video of the "Speedy cutting-station"). I didn't prefer the line first, because for smaller peaces you are so bent over the station while cutting BUT the result was perfect as I imagined! So I did a four cut test and had an inaccurancy of 0,3mm on 50cm wich is really as you promised!! Thanks for that first but can you explain the inaccurancy that accours on the lines between the outer rectangle? For me it's a riddle.. Greets from Germany Michael

I just received my PGS from TSO. Looking forward to using it. It looks bang on perfect and I knew I needed one when I saw that the concept is based on math! Any special tip for deciding where the first line of holes should go?

Hi Peter, I've received my Mark II system and am in the process of creating a worktop with it. Mostly going well so far, but do you know how I could get hold of a 2nd 3mm drill bit holder on its own ? The reason I ask is that the top I am using is 32mm deep. The 3mm drill bit supplied is 75mm long, but only 22-25mm goes through the top, so won't drill all the way through this top. The rest is inside the holder/raised up a little by the ruler. Would be a waste of the top to just bin it. As the hex screw holding the 3mm bit is near the top of the holder, I can't just move the 3mm bit down by around 10mm - it wont lock. I guess I could just drill down to 25mm whatever the top depth and just push the dogs in that far, but if I don't go all the way through I can't lock parts from underneath (I can always get longer 8mm bolts for pretty much any depth). The 20mm bit looks to be able to handle a cut depth of 35mm. I have got hold of a 100mm long 3mm bit to fix the issue (haven't found any between 85-90mm long yet), but to use it with the guide I have to drill a 3mm hole with the supplied bit then swap to the 100mm bit to complete the hole all the way through, because the 100mm bit is so long the holder won't locate in the top of the guide if I only use that bit and would likely be inaccurate. Once you use the supplied 75mm bit, the 25mm hole it drills in the top allows the 100mm bit to go down far enough in the hole to locate the drill bit holder at the top of guide as normal and finish the job. But all the swapping back and forth between 75mm and 100mm long bits in the holder is making the process a bit of a faff. I don't really want to move the rules before finishing a line of holes or forget which have been extended and which haven't. A 2nd 3mm bit holder would fix my issue easily. Just didn't spot it on the Axminster site. Here's hoping.

I think that this is exactly what I was looking for. But, what are the minimum dimensions of the mdf piece of sheet that can be used with this system? Is there any rule for it, or we can use any dimensions suitable to our needs? Thanks

Hello Ron, where to order this that can ship to the Philippines.

Evening Peter, firstly what an ingenious product. I do have to ask why are the hole centres 96mm and not 100mm? Also the second drill guide. If you include a washes/spacer, the same thickness as the parf stck, there would be no need for 2 drill guides thus making the kit that bit cheaper. Thanks John.

Peter, my parf guide mk II arrives today and a few other things I ordered from axminster later this week. I have a question about the 20mm drill bit that comes with the kit; how many holes can I expect it to last if drilling strictly into MDF? I'm asking because I'm considering grabbing one as a spare along with some 3mm bits.

There are a lot of precision bits here. What kind of packaging does it come with? Is there a hard case to store all the constituent bits?

Peter - I ordered the mark II system a couple months back and am very happy with it! Unfortunately, I bent one of the locator pins. Do you know if/how i can order some replacements? Any guidance you can provide would be greatly appreciated! Thanks Tony

The 20 mm holes are relatively loose after drilling. They seem to be tapered from top to bottom. The drill shakes a bit when first starting the hole and smooths out. It looks like the spike may be off center. Have you seen this issue?

Just saw this, which was published four days after I ordered my version 1 :-(

What are the concrete differences (in use/results) versus the older system? Thanks!

Great product Peter, one issue I am having is the tightness of the 3mm guide pins in 19mm ply. They cannot be removed or seated with hand pressure alone so was wondering if there is something I can correct in my procedure. Cheers Warren

My only worry would be the 3mm drill. I noticed you clipped into a Festool drill and it snapped securely. I've tried numerous drill bits etc with these hex ends, all trade names in trade holders and as there is no actual standardisation, some wobble and some are too tight to fit/release. I'd hate to buy this and find I need another drill to make the drilling actually work!

Hello Peter. Does the overlapping of the rulers cause a slight difference in the hypotenuse length (shorter) since the hypotenuse rule is on top? Since you put the hypotenuse ruler on top on both the left and the right, doesn't it shorten the distance of the two corner holes by a fraction of a mm?

Any recommendations on what to use for finishing that won't cause problems with the hole sizing?

hi! could you demonstrate the use of the "UJK PARF GUIDE SYSTEM PARF STICK CONNECTOR"?

Hi Peter I hope there is more than one joining piece in the kit it will get lost :( and knowing Axminster they won't have it in stock.

Hi Peter, i've just bought your Guide MK ii...super clever idea and super useful kit. Just a question about the 20 mm and the 3 mm drill bit. I saw that they are Centrotec compatible. I do not have Festool Centrotec tool..but only a Milwaukee M18 2606-20 Drill-Driver with a normal 1/2" metal chuck. The question is: May i use the drill bit in the kit with my Drill Driver or i will "ruin" it and/or degrade the precision of you kit? Thank you for the time you take in reply to my answer and thank you again for all your videos.. Paolo.

I just ordered one. What is the process if you have a longer bench top than the parf stick

I wish they would make a 3/4 inch drill bit as a replacement for the 20mm.

Hello Peter, I have just been persuaded by your excellent videos to purchase a parf guide Mk 2 set. I hope to use it on my bench which is 30mm thick beech veneered chipboard. I’d appreciate your view on whether this will be suitable for dog holes and do you think the material will cause blunting problems for the 200 cutter? Grateful for any advice you may have.

Are the ruler supposed to be identical as in length no difference at all between them?

Maybe consider a guide system that will go down the side of the table and still be lined up with the table top holes.

Just wondering why you don't make the chamfer tool able to be mounted on a drill, instead of doing all those holes by hand?

Hello Peter, I have been enjoying your videos over the last couple of weeks. I am in the US and just placed my order for the MK II system. These are out of stock anywhere here I have checked. I went to Axminster to place my order. They had them in stock and even with shipping and taxes it was only $4 more than the price listed in the US without taxes or shipping. Unbelievable. Anyway, I have a question about this video. I know you are using a Festool drill. Can you tell me the model? Also, when you drill the initial 3mm holes you have that bushing as a guide. I assume that is part of the kit but is the 3mm drill bit and the piece that makes it fit the bushing, also included? A little new to this so just wanted to see if I needed to get anything else. Again, thank you for your videos and this tool. You are about to convert a 3/4" guy over to 20mm...

First of all, many thanks for this video and your others, I have been binge watching them over the last week! You have another new subscriber! Secondly, after drilling the first row, is there any reason you chose not to go 8 along the row, and 6 up the column (and use the deeper 3mm guide) rather than 6 along the row, and 8 up the column, and having to use the threaded joiner? Lastly, it would possibly be confusing for some, but would it not be an idea to drill the first of the outlying 32mm offset holes at the end of the first row, while the Parf Stick is already in place?

While I'm delighted with the accuracy of mark 1, mark 2 looks great. I've now got buyers remorse

Hello, what would you recommend in terms of board material? And what thickness? Thanks!

Hi very nice tool and tutorial. I will byu one but I can't 10 holes, my workspace is smaller. You say on 10 holes is the order 6 to 8 to 10. What is when I will make 8 holes and 4 high? Can I do this? Sorry I'm not the best handyman :) thx for the answer

Hi Peter, I have found the 3mm pins are typically just a bit too tight for the 3mm holes the supplied bit drills. Most times I have to press REALLY hard to get the pins in and it's then really hard to get them to come out afterwards. So much so, I've had one pin come out of its handle. I managed to force it back out from underneath, but that also took some doing. Axminster specialist sales are sending me some replacement pins, but they said you had mentioned a workaround to them about running through the holes with the 3mm bit ? They weren't fully sure what you meant, so I thought I'd ask. Do you mean to drill the 3mm holes using the guides and then run through each hole again "freehand" to ease it a bit, or something else ? Don't want to compromise accuracy, but do want to get the pins in and out without breaking them. Hope that makes sense.

I just made two tops-the second to verify I didn’t make any major errors-but when I test them with a 4/5-sided cut test I’m out about 1mm over 1000mm. Is that within the expected tolerances of the system? I realize the 4 cut method probably compounds smaller issues for a system like this and a real cut of 1000mm would probably be out by less. Also if using my digital caliper between holes, most are less than .1mm out between holes, but a few are closer to .2mm. My guess is that anything less than .1mm is “good enough.” What do you consider to be outside of tolerance?

Will the 3mm drill bit (and 20 for that matter) drill through a double layer of 3/4 mdf? If not is there another method that can be used.

Purchased these a while ago, tried twice and both times the right side was off by about 0,5mm? Is this normal?

any Black Friday prices on the mk2 system please Peter?

So, what system are better cut for make MFT table, ISOMETRIC or 6, 8, 10 System???

Congratulations Peter on improving an already superb bit of kit. The second drill guide with the deeper protrusion seems a touch superfluous? Surely if you’ve drilled the rest of the holes, the second ruler could be removed? Quick question: are the “locating dogs” useful after their initial use? Can they be utilised to hold workpieces? Thanks.

Hi Peter where can I buy your PARF GUIDE SYSTEM in Australia ?? thanks in advance :)

Do you even SAE bro?

What do we do with the original system? Can we buy the new accessories or is the old system obsolete? John P

Where can I purchase this system. Snowplower

At 10.15 you state that the two Parf sticks are rock solid. I am making a new MFT due to the first not being accurate. I have noticed that there is around 1mm of play where the two sticks meet. Could you advise what may be causing this please? Many thanks, Lee Ward

Is there a 19mm version or conversion kit? Not all dog holes and systems are 20mm...Thank you.

I just have to ask. I've always wondered. Are you related to the legendary British cricket player of the same name? In any event, I love your channel. I bought your PGS, and it worked perfectly, and I mean dead on perfectly, no deviation. Only excellent engineering and production can produce such results.

Hi there Peter! Love you videos mate! Inspired so much by your parf system, went on axminster to get the mark 2 but out of stock :( Any idea when they will be back ? Thanks so much - M T

Is there an imperial system?

Is there any way to purchase just the Parf Sticks for the Mk II set? I purchased the Mk II System from Axminster and one of the sticks has a bow to it and made the grid inaccurate. I contacted Axminster about this but they want me to return the whole kit and pay shipping. Shipping from USA back to the UK will cost me more than what I paid for the kit. EDIT: This must have been user error as the holes are lined up. The ruler's edges are bowed but that shouldn't effect the grid work. Axminster later offered to pay return shipping but I will be emailing them now and apologize for my assumption.

Sadly Axminster have hiked their prices - again. With inflation at less than 1% I am not sure how they can justify an 11% price rise - just removed it from my list.

Hi Peter, I am in the USA, but Axminster is out of stock on your mark 2 ststem

Dang I just bought the old one

i just got mine , whilst pleased with the quality , i found the hole process very ...boreing

Hmm - I hate to be a wet blanket, but my brand new MK 2 part guide is so snug, the guide bushing nipples don’t fit into the 6mm holes nor does the 3mm drill guide fit at all into the oil bearing as shown in this video. Lastly there are burrs on each side of the guide ruler at each 6mm hole- on both rulers. Has the quality deteriorated or am I expected to finish these guides on my own. Hardly the level of precision I was expecting. Sorry for the sharing such a negative experience. This set will not work as advertised.

Hi Peter, besides the one hole linked below, it seems you've done an excellent job keeping the drill jig stable. That said, I've made my first top and had the same thing happen to many of my 3mm holes. I've not done the 4 cut test yet but can fit a 0.006" feeler gauge between a 12" precision triangle when placed against my fence and guide rail which gives me doubts about the accuracy I'll achieve with this top. Would the drill jig moving like it did below be enough to cause this? If so, I'll have to cut another top and find a different drill which can be balanced better. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8sLtHYEo-nw.htmlm54s

Hello Peter, I've been enjoying your videos and decided to give the Parf II System a try. Right now I'm building my first MFT top and have run into an issue with inconsistent & oversized 20mm holes. I made a short video to demonstrate the problem - link is below. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MttcvCs-W4I.html 3mm Grid came out perfectly. Everything lines up. 20mm holes seem oversized and not consistent. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thankyou!