Ultimate Compact FormD T1 Build: Ryzen 9 & RTX 4080 Super 

Appreciate it!

Great Build!, I'd love to get back into custom loops for the T1 and the new NCase. It's amazing when you can cool hot components like the 13700K and 4090!

@@chrisrussellca I moved back from M1 evo to the m1 v6.1:)

@@jw7r3 thinking of the building in the NCase or NR200P V2 next.

Thanks 🙏, Good luck, will you go with the 3D printed top-hat? I went with the 3.25 slot orientation first but settled on the 3 slot as it gives you more AIO options. You’ll need some good cooling with the 7950X3D.

@@chrisrussellca I actually was able to get a zotac 4080 super really cheap and its a 2.5 slot so I should have more space. Also going to use the atmos 240 AIO. unfortunately I don't have a 3D Printer.

@@vvatchout That’s a great score! Saving space is really important when building in this case. We don’t have a 3D printer either but found several independent printers on Facebook marketplace.

@@chrisrussellcadid u disassemble everything to go from 3.25 to 3 slot?

@@GoldFus1on Hi, I had to disassemble the fan/top fan bracket. Had to also had to remove and shift the screws on the rear panel connecting center column. I had to loosen and shift the PSU bracket. Had to move the rear panel to shift the I/O plate because the motherboard was also shifting. Lastly I had to shift the center column to 3.0 slot. The order is a bit fuzzy but I had to remove a fair bit to change the GPU/CPU clearance. However I did not have to remove any components, just screws and parts of the case.

I don think that CPU would fit but I can look into it, I think the pump head is too tall.

The board and most other AM5 boards are temperamental. DDR5 requires memory training and boot times come at the cost. Expect 20-45 seconds for each cold boot. When running memory in XMP I sometimes have to power cycle a few times for the machine to boot properly. However I am running a beta bios and so your results may vary. This is a common thing for AM5 boards in general.

Thank you 🙏. As for the ARGB for the ATMOS, I’ve never used the connector box, simple connected it to the ARGB connector on the motherboard. The only downside is that you have to use your motherboards RGB software. From what I’ve heard the software from Cooler Master isn’t that good either, so pick your poison. I don’t have the space for the controller in the T1.

@@chrisrussellca got it, I'll check out that CoolerMaster software, thanks!

Thanks for the comment. I’d recommend you do what’s best for the purpose in which you’re going to use it. If your rocking a 170W CPU like the 7900X then cooling will be important, however as long as you stick with at least a 240mm radiator you should be fine. I’m currently filming another video about the different fan configurations in this case. You can get even better cooling with small drops in performance if you undervolt otherwise set the CPU in eco mode. My test will be comparing the 3 main fan setups in this case with the stock top panel versus the 3D printed top-hat, stock CPU performance versus eco mode 105W. I did choose the 3.25 slot options at first to give the GPU more space for cooling but I wanted to place the tinted pump cover from the ATMOS back on the pump and it wouldn’t fit so I moved it to 3 slots. As for portability this case is sturdy but I advise you download and print the GPU bracket if you’re using a 30/4080/90 FE, it’ll secure your GPU better. There’s also rear panel straps you can but to carry the T1 better.

I use my system for Motion design(3D rendering and compositing mostly), which relies heavily on the GPU. Only some tasks require CPU performance and even that is single core mostly, so should be fine. Was thinking of going with Ryzen 7 instead to save on heat. Also could you please link the cablemods you were referring to in the video. Are there any specific short cables available for this sort of build. Sorry I am new to compact PCs lol.

@@alihammad6883 honestly the Ryzen 7s are fantastic options while being cooling and more efficient, the best value to performance. There is a set of cables made for the T1 on ModDiy here is the link -> www.moddiy.com/products/Premium-Silicone-Ultra-Soft-and-Flexible-Cable-Kit-for-ITX-SFF-Builds.html. However if you go with the 4080/4090 you’ll need a slightly longer 12HPWR cable ; around 30cm or 300mm. The one in this kit is 250mm.

The ATMOS is fully compatible in the 3-slot mode on the FormD T1. If you want 3.25-slot you’ll have to remove the plastic cover which is just a transparent cap.

Thank you! We started off using the 3.25 slot configuration but moved to the 3 slot mode to allow for a taller CPU liquid cooler

If you use the included top panel with a liquid cooler you’ll have the ability to do two slim fans or one regular thickness fan and one slim fan.

Receiver as in a USB hub? You'll start seeing issues if the device you use exceeds the bandwidth of the port itself such as a SSD, 4K webcam, etc. A simple Logitech keyboard and mouse can probably run on a potato.

I’m working on a video like that in the near future. However there are several good videos from Optimum Tech and Devyn Johnston on a build guide for something similar.

Hi, I dowenloaded the top-hat from the FormD Works website via their 3D library, here is the link----> formdworks.com/collections/t1-1/products/3d-files

That’s amazing, I think getting as much power into a small build is the goal.

hey man! i'm doing the same build. what do you use to cool your ryzen? thank you!

@@perecatherine great! Do you mean quart I use as in cooler or other methods of heat reduction? I max out the stock cooling capabilities with a 240mm AIO (Cooler Master MasterLiquid ATMOS). Currently I am running that with two 15mm slim fans. I have applied a Curve Optimizer of -19 and a thermal limit of 92c. Get around 28,100 on Cinebench with these settings. I use Thermal Grizzly Kyronaut Extreme for thermal paste. Fan and pump speed set to 50%. CPU idle around 46-49c and 92c under all core load. However using all cores doesn’t happen often so it stays between 46-80c under normal load and editing in Premiere Pro. Remember I’m using two slim fans in a 9.95L case on a 170W TDP chip. Not bad but you can make them better but you’ll trade performance or noise.

Hi, yes, it’s fantastic. Here is the link -> ESR 3-in-1 Wireless Charger Stand... www.amazon.ca/dp/B0CC2344YY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I really wish I could make that happen. I’m making another video soon comparing the different fan configurations in the T1 and I might rock with the original top panel and two slim fans. T1 needs to make a titanium coloured plastic and aluminum top hat.

That's a fantastic feature of the Fan Control Software, it's free getfancontrol.com/

@@chrisrussellca thanks bro

@@ErFoxMaks I believe the case is around $275 USD for this specific configuration, T1 v2.1 Titanium with titanium side panels -> formdt1.com/products/t1titanium?variant=47959309156670

I would say that the A4 H2O is a better overall option. Better in cost, ease of assembly and functionality. The FormD T1 is more of a niche case that requires a bit more time and sacrifice. However, having the ability to purchase add-ons and different side panels make it far more customizable. Having the ability to change the center bar to allow for more CPU pump head clearance versus a bigger GPU is also an important feature. I do agree that the A4 is the best option for 90% of ITX enthusiasts.

I was too curious about the owners. I’d love to test both cases 2.1 vs 2.5

I own the v2.5, a friend has the v1, quality is actually better on my v2.5 and he's now upgrading his.

@@b1gd312 I’ve had some issues with my 2.1 as well. Some fitment issues, it’s really tight, it works but just something to note

I have 3 v2.5 and they are fantastic. The fit and finish is incredible. I had a black one which went through 4 rebuilds (terrible upgrade itch) and it looks like new.

Atmos 240 + Noctua A12 15mm + Phanteks T30 (add a fan grille, trust me!) and you get fantastic temps and noise (silent) balance. No need for the top hat.