I just bought it here in England. I couldn’t resist it or hold off longer. My bank account is now £220. Lighter. Things are very unstable these days and I don’t want to be caught out unprepared as well as I can be.
At £220 you got it cheap. I payed ca £400 for mine (nkr5000). Its a good choise for homedefence if you pul out the valveblock. Think you will be very happy with it 😃👍
Hi Rune what a Beautiful gun it's like a HDP but with much look and much power. For everyone it's a Sarah connor's blaster. I like very much thiis Umatex Greetings from France Gree
Muzzle needs a touch of the Dremel. For making Potato slugs. etc. Thats a sentence you wont see very often. Cheers Rune, all the best for New Year mate. We need it.
Interesting - I think I saw the same issue as you for my first few shots, power was quite erratic but then settled down after maybe 6 or 7 few shots. I thought it might be my crono. After I had taken it apart, lubed everything and put it back together it became much more stable. Combined with the gunk you saw in the barrel I think it is worth giving the marker a good clean and lube when you first get it.
I like this model. I watched A alley and it had some power to it. It’s still a bit £ here in England for what it is (air power) but I do like this model.
Yes. You can hear the magazine spring rattling in the tube. The only downside of this marker is the soft magazine spring. Otherwice it seems to work great 👍
@@runerebel8441 I've a couple of HDR 50s and a couple of the HDS 68. All 7.5 joules as that's our limit here. Still fun. Tempted with the HDB next. Can have 16 joules.... These things are such fun. Thanks again for the detailed explanations and doing the things id love to be allowed to.
If it holds the CO2 after you hit the pushcap then I guess its a problem with the sear. Maybe the sear spring. If its a new marker then send it back and get another one. Just remember to lube it before use. I use siliconespray down the CO2 tube. This help keeping the O-rings and seals soft.
@@runerebel8441 it holds the co2 after hitting it, it just comes out as soon as take a shot, ive contacted them regarding a replacement and there not really happy to do anything and told me id need to buy a seal kit
@@runerebel8441 yea it holds the co2 after i puncture the bottle, it just emptys out the barrel in on shot. Ive spoken to the shop ive got it from and they said it will have been ammunition that will have caused the issue so there not really wanting to help other than telling me not to use weighted ammo if thats what i did so looks like I'll have to try fix it after only firing one shot out of the box 😟
Wow. Thats bad customer service. If you want then its an easy marker to work on. Several videos here on RU-vid how to open it. Umarex has a parts kit for these markers. You might want that kit before opening up. Guess it might be a broken or lost sear spring 🤔@@BlazedReefer
Would like to know what you think the tuning potential of this would be? I guess most of the same modifications (as HDR68) could be applied and get it up to 30+ Joules
Rune, if you had to choose between HDR68 and HDB68 - no mods, out of the box performance - which one would you pick? Much difference in terms of power?
Hi. I would buy the HDR68 if I only should use it in stock performance. With heavy ammo the HDR68 in 7,5 joule gives ca 12 joule, and in 16 joule it gives ca 27 joule :)
@@runerebel8441 stock performance and heavy ammo = 27J! 🥲 That’s so cool. With stock version, I hear that you can get 10-15 good shots. Is that correct?