Wow thanks for the shout out maestro. I really appreciate it. That hdb is shooting hot! Will have one to try in the channel soon. 👍 Thanks for the support.
Great data😉😎 With this info, one could customize ammo with progressively heavier to lighter therefore retaining velocity as gas is used up. 😎👍 😎✌👍❤🖖 Love Brother
Thanks brother. Yes tinkering with ammo weight is a good idea. It seems for me that the optimum weight for these hard hitting markers is around 7 gram. Cheers bro 😃
I'm always amazed by the power the Umarex range of launchers can produce without fancy replacement parts or expensive materials. Especially compared to the Byrna range.
Hello to all - great job Rune! I appreciate your approach to share your passion with a community in a very simple and friendly way! Keep up please, RU-vid need more ppl like you :) now I have 2 questions for you : Question 1 => how to differentiate gen 1 hdb from gen 2 ? Question 2 => do you know by any chance a place where I could buy an extra restrictor? Drilled mine and would like to have a spare one to be able to retrofit my hdb back to original. Thanks again and take care 🙏🏻😊
Thanks my friend. From what Iam told the gen 1 has a screwed on CO2 tube and gen 2 has a crimped on CO2 tube. The detent is also somewhat diffrent (thicker). I have not seen the gen1 so I cant say for sure if this is correct. You can buy restrictors fromplaces like www.homedefence-24.com and www.tech23.de Take care and happy shooting 😃
Another question for you Rune… some months ago you did a test with drilled restrictor and no valve block. So at the end of the day which configuration do you think is more efficient : no valve block + drilled restrictor OR no valve block + original restrictor ? Thanks :)
Hi my friend. The drilled restrictor will give a better flow and for the other markers this might be what I would use. However since this marker takes 16 shots/balls then I like having enough CO2 to be able to fire of all the shots from the magazine. So unless the restrictor gets clogged some way (it can happend) then I use the orginal restrictor. Cheers 😃
Oh right. I have it and took out valve block. But not the restrictor. Interesting I thought it may “fart” out all the CO2 first shot if I took that out too.
Yes it might give farting sounds. But it still gives plenty of power. Most of the Umarex T4E range work just fine without the restrictor. The only marker that must have it if the HDR50. No sure why it is so...🤔
great test rune, do you have the gen 2 version? the gen 1s hit around 50 joules they did something and changed the detents but there is a way to bring it back up to par by adding some material above the detent, micheal giorgio knows the mods maby ask him but great test as always :)
Thank you Jeff 🙏. Yes I have the Gen-2 version. If I use heavy balls then the energy rise. With no valveblock and no restrictor using 12 gram CO2 I usualy get 40+ joule. If I use the 88 gram I get over 70 joule. So plenty of power. I might try and tinker with the detent later. Thanks for the info my friend. 👍
Thanks for great video and greetings from Hungary :) After this testing, I want to remove the valve block and use my HDB without valve blick but with restrictor in - could you please let me know if valve block can be installed back anytime later or is it damaged when removing?
En mi HDB68 tenía tres pequeñas muescas que lo sujetaban, y para poder sacar el bloque de válvulas golpeé las muescas con cuidado hasta que quedó libre. Después lo saqué atornillando y tirando. No creo que vuelva a quedar bien sujeto si lo vuelvo a instalar.
I just removed valve block, no restrictor, and installed the modify pin. After a few shots it started firing the whole magazine on the first trigger pull. Any idea what broke? Thank you!!
So it worked fine first? So it dumps all the CO2 now with fresh CO2 canisters? Before opening the marker up you can try and install the restrictor again. It might happend because of overpressure. If it still dumps all CO2 then I guess its the spring for the sear that has jammed or broken. Good luck
Love the videos. I have a question,, the hdp 68 7.5j has no restriction disk in with the co2 canister area,,, if the restriction block in the chamber is removed,, what would the average power be with basic rubber balls? Or would I still have to remove a valve somewhere to get more power ?
Thanks my friend. You meen the HDP50, right? If you remove the valve block from the valve internals you will get full power. The 7,5 joule dont have the CO2 restrictor in the CO2 tube. You will get ca 4 very good powerful shots (20+ Joule), plus 3-4 weaker shots before its out of CO2. The power will depend on the ammo used. I guess rubber balls will give ca 18+ joule. No need to change the valve. Just remove the valve block. Good luck 😃
@@runerebel8441 thanks. I can’t do any mods where I am, I was just interested to know- 1- what the 7.5j hdr 68 can produce without tuning barrel, restriction disks and valve blocks, or anything added,,,,so just a stock hdr 68, with restrictive valves/chambers removed would measure,, (looks around 25 to 30j) and then- 2- what the tuning barrel would add (with and then without the extension barrell, I hate the elongation look)
Hi. The HDR68 with an open valve (no restrictors of any kind) will give ca 30 joule depending on ammo and temperature. This goes for both the 7,5 joule and 16 joule versions. The longer barrel dont give much if its not warm and you use heavy ammo. So at 20C its hardly helps. However at 25C or more the warmer temp will rise the CO2 pressure. Best I have seen was 38 joule using a 12 gram CO2. If you also use HPA or a large 88 gram CO2 you will get 50+++ joule.... Hope this info helps 😃@@alimac4531
Complimenti per il video,si potrebbe mettere la prolunga dell' hdr68 per allungare un po' la canna e lo spillo più largo per il buco della bomboletta CO2 e se possibile la.camera.di.espansione z-ram così sempre.a.co2 e.con misure moderate, chissà di quanto.aumenta
Thanks my friend. You can do all that. Iam waiting for more adapters to use one this model. I think the power will rise quite a bit but no idea how much 🤔
Excuse me, which part is the "valve block" you are talking about? I am from Taiwan, because one of my long silver blocking air valves (the one inside the push mouth) was broken during maintenance, which caused the small steel cylinder to be installed, and the co2 gas would be sprayed out immediately, because this gun in Taiwan The parts are not produced (I don’t know if they will come out). I searched for a long time, but I couldn’t find the corresponding maintenance agent or manufacturing company in Taiwan. I have subscribed to your video, but I don’t understand English. Yours is very detailed but not The subtitle can display the translation, I can only use the translator to type and convert it into English, I hope this big brother can teach me or help me, how to solve the problem of leaking air from the muzzle of the gun, I am very troubled, all in Taiwan 16 Joule version (H D B .68-16j)! If you see that you are willing to answer my gun damage problem for me, brother, I am grateful, thank you very much!😢
Hello my friend. The HDB68 has two types of CO2 restrictors. One sits inside the valve and is generaly called a "valve-block". It looks like a metalll cylinder. Remove it for better flow. The other is a disck shaped restrictor that you can remove with a screwdriver. It sita inside the CO2 tube for the 12 gram canister. It can be removed for max power. The leak out the barrel sounds like the broken heat-core O-ring. You will have to open the meckanism and install a new O-ring. It has the size: 9x6x1,5mm. Good luck brother 🙂@@user-lk7wd6cb3l
@@runerebel8441 Thank you for your answer. It may be the O-ring that caused the air leakage at the beginning. Because of what you said, the metal cylinder and the disc have both in my version. At the beginning, I removed the metal cylinder, which caused the jet to leak light. I thought it was The cylinder is the air leakage caused by blocking the inside of the air outlet, but unfortunately, the metal of my valve was broken abruptly, making the entire valve unusable, so I had to send it back to the agent in Taiwan. After all, this valve is not produced by us and Manufactured, so currently it can only be sent to the agent’s factory for repair, but it depends on whether the company provides parts to Taiwan for repair, if not...my machine is scrapped, but HDR50 has parts, I don’t know if they can be shared , can only wait for the reply from the Taiwan agent! Thanks again for your help! ! ! 😃
