@@runerebel8441 I am going to purchase one and try this myself. For self-defense I don’t believe I would be given the opportunity to reload so I don’t mind going through the CO2 so quickly .
I saw an upgraded 30 joule .68 HDR Revolver for sale for $275! Is that a good deal? It’s brand new, and unused, the Seller tells me! Thanks for your videos!
Thanks my friend. My neighbours dont like it but they havent called the cops yet. These days I only shot one or two times a week. Earliyer I used to shot every day, also out on my balcony. But then I had the cops comming.... So now I take it easy 😉
@@runerebel8441 If you install the right Windows they won't hear anything, there are some windows that block out street traffic noise, you get the added benefit of that also.
Hey Rune , how are you keeping ? . I hope you are well ! . Loveing your shows , great information 👍 and presentation 👏 . Take care Cheers Simon from York England 🇬🇧
Updated numbers for your Rune- I finally broke the 50J mark with this bad boy. Using 7.65g. HP68 and HPA around 1000psi. I got between 53J and 47J. It drained a 13ci about as fast as a 12g CO2, which I found surprising.. I only shot the one, 5 rd. magazine, but was down to just under 1000psi at the end. Probably would have gotten the extra 2, for the 7 shot total, I normally get with 12g. I put various shapes, brands and weights from 2.9g to 11.0g through after that and completely shredded my target! CO2 to HPA... What a difference from the same rig, in the same 61⁰F room.
Hey Rune, amazing video as always and still the reference on RU-vid for info on this type of guns! I have the HDR 50 powertuned and with the long barrel and I am planning on getting one HDR 68, but want to powertune it as well. Which HDR 68 version do you recommend for getting the most power out of it? The 7.5 J or the 16 J versions? With the HDR 50, the 7.5 J version was able to be powertuned to be more powerful, so I was wondering if something similar happens with the HDR 68... thanks and keep up the good work!
Thanks my friend. It seems that the 16 joule version has an edge over the 7,5 joule version. But its not much. Remove the restrictor from the 16 joule and the valveblock on the 7,5 joule, and both will do over 30 joule with heavy ammo. You will get ca 7 shots from one CO2 after removing those parts 😃
@@runerebel8441 Hi, Rune , I'm just curious about removing the restrictor from 16j ,in other words what will it do to heat core seals? Or is this a minor issue that might not happen frequently 🤔
@@malefanematsie3890 Hi my friend. The back-pressure will be quite a bit higher, so there is a risk that the heat core O-ring will blow. If you have the 16 joule version then I would leave it as it is 🙂👍
Hi Rune. Could one go and drill the valveblock opening a bit bigger and if so how much to have the valve not fluttering? The idea is to get more power without damaging the valve. Thanks for your awesome videos.
Hi and thank you Willie. I guess you can dremmel or drill the volume inside the valve bigger. This should rise the power some. Just be careful so you dont ruin the threads 😉. Good luck 😃👍
Thank you for your videos, it’s great! But removing the restrictor may damage the joints, right? Changing the restrictor by one with a wider hole is not safer?
Thanks my friend. Shooting without the restrictor is a risk. The backpressure might popp the heat-core O-ring. It has happened to me several times. Dont forget to use a lot of lube (siliconespray).
Thanks my friend 😃. I would be very glad if Umarex sendt me products to test. The HDX is not sold in Norway so it would had to be imported. If I get hold of one I make videos 😃. Cheers 😃
@@sven471111 No powerlimmit on markers, only a caliber limmit on airguns.. Game-On just got the 16 joule version now. I have asked them to send me one. Stay tuned 😃
Which would you have in the bedside drawer ? Seasoned Up HDR50 with steel balls. Or HDR68 with crusher balls. I have 2 drawers in the bedside cabinet, room enough for 2. Thats 11 groin shots should I ever need. But they are fun for popping melon's and pineapples. Cheers Rune.
Hmm. Thats a difficult question. I think I choose the HDR68 because of the higher energy it gives 🤔. Yes these revolvers are great fun indeed. Just love them 😃👌👍. Cheers 👍
hey Rune, may i ask a question please? So, if you buy the 16joule version should i thave that metal restrictor in the valve or not? Im confused? Does that restrictor make it more powerful by restricting the airflow? Or does it make it less powerful? I just bought what i was told was a 16 joule version and the box is a sticker which says "
Hi Darren. My box had the same markings. The 7,5 joule have valveblock. The 16 joule has restrictor. They reduse the flow of CO2 and you get less power. For optimum power both must be removed (in both versions). Easy job. Cheers😃👍
Hey Rune does the CO2 cartridge also restrict the flow of gas? What will be happening with and open system? Did you have an video where you using a 88g CO2 cartridge direct attached to the gun?
Hi Dirk. The hole that you make in the CO2 canister will make a difference in the power. If the hole is small/little then you will have less velocity and power (but not much). I have tested it on HPA with both 850 PSI and 1100 PSI, and its a beast with HPA. I dont have the right couplings to use 88 gram CO2.
Do I understand it correctly that this 16J version does not have the valve-block but only the restrictor? So the only modification to achieve 30J is removing the restrictor? Does only the 7.5J version have the valve-block or is there any valve-block in 16J version too?
Hi Joe. The restrictor was made from the tip of a used 12 gram CO2 canister. I cut it 12 mm wide and filed down untill it fitted. The optimal size is 11,2mm. Good luck. Cheers Rune 😃
hello my friend! thank you for this video I was just wondering about the power output in this exact scenario, given that it has no valve block. Keep tinkering !
Do I get the same result with the 7.5 joule version as with the 16 joule version? Just by removing the restrictor ? Or do I have to remove the valve block?
Thanks my friend. The HDR68 has more energy, but the HDR50 (powertuned) has better penetration. It depends on what you will use it for. I like the HDR68. Its a big beast 😁👍
It work, but will be expensive to shoot some rounds, I was out in the forest with my tuned HDR 50. Sounded like a real gun, but no one care because it was near Skytterkollen. A large shooting center just outside Oslo. 🤠
Yes. I prefere to use it in 16 joule version and has put the restrictor back in the CO2 tube. Shooting near gunranges is a good idea. Nobody care if you shot :)
Hello Rune..i have the hdr 68 16j, im from brazil and is too expensive for me to import parts for this gun.. so after all you have tested for hdr 68 16j, what you recomend is the best upgrade for more power like 10 powerful shots for this gun??? Thanks keep the good work...
Hello my friend. Thank you. Iam glad you like my videos. The best way is to just drill the restrictor in the CO2 tube with a 1 mm drillbit. That should give you ca 10 good powerful shots. Greetings from Norway 😃
Hello my friend.my shop told me for the HDR 50,but they work all the same,not to tighten the CO2 button too hard because inside the chamber is not fixed very well and can brake.there were some people sending him the gun with this kind of damage.he told be to fix it with low power til you feel it's the end of the screw.take care and best wishes.
Haciendole esa reforma para pitenciarla quitandole solo la valvula para potenciarla a la hdr .68 de 16jules como mostras vos . Haciendo esa reforma puedo disparar igual postas de pimienta y de acero y cualquier otra que vendan? Para este calibre?
Thank you. I like the HDR68 more. Never had a jam with it. The Tiberius is great but it ofthen jams if I use slugs... The Tiberius can be tuned qiute hi in power, but I set mine at ca 25 joule. That way I have enough CO2 to fire off all shots in the magazine. Both markers are quite easy to work on if there is any problems. but my favorite is the HDR68 😃👍
@@runerebel8441 The HDR68 is good but it has 2 big flaws, first the Gen3 valve. Everytime I slap the cap I get nervous my hand will blow off, its not good for customer business. The second flaw is the way the revolver cylinder rotates, if you let go of the trigger before firing, it would have rotated the cylinder already, it rotates before the shot not after, so if you only have 1 round in the drum you will shoot empty. So for example, you are lining up your shot but let go of the trigger to adjust your shot, then you shoot and it will be a dud.
So far its the HDR50 with Powerkit50 and long barrel, useing heavy slugs. But I have other markers that will give way more if powertuned to the max. I dont want to blow O-rings and breake parts so I keep the energy under 30 joules mostly. But both my Tippmann TCR and Tiberius T8.1 can give very hi energy if powertuned 😉👍
@@runerebel8441 thanks that's great, just found out today that the paintball markers aren't legally restricted in power in my country 😅 so i'm gonna tune something up
Hello, if y have a hdr68 16joules version, all i have to do is removed the valve restrictor as you show, to have 30 joules? If i do the same to my HDP50 11j Will improve power to?Thanks for your time!
Hi my friend. Yes all you need to do for max power is to remove the restrictor, both for the HDR68 16 joule and the HDP50 in 11 joule version. Cheers 😃
Hmmm. Good question. I think the paintballs would breake because of the hi pressure. I guess that a non tuned 16 joule version will give somewhere in the hi 300 fps range, but Iam not sure..
I have used my 7,5 joule version all the time without any restrictor or valveblock. Never any problems. However I cant say for sure it will hold forever. These things are made of plastic and potmetal, so not build like a tank...
hello friend in version 16j is it only necessary to remove the restrictor? Or add the restrictor and homedefense pin valve? I see that you add a piece of co2 bottle.
Hello my friend. On the 16 joule version you only need to remove the restrictor to get more power. For max power you can put on a longer barrel and use HPA 1100 PSI or 88 gram CO2. If so you get around 50 joules from it 😃👍
@@runerebel8441 Thanks for answering, so it is not necessary to change the barrel pin or the bottom pin? wouldn't you notice any difference? greetings friend
@@Jose-mm9ee It depends on how you want to use it. For my 16 joule version I just use it as it is out of the box, and it gives 27 joule. Good enough for me 😃
So basically all of them are 16j if you remove the restrictor? In getting the hdp50 with the 15 to 30j power kit AND 30 to 40j barrel range whatever. Gonna be a beast probably totally 50joules and I bought an adapter for hpa tanks gonna hit up to 800-1100 psi woot! More like 80 joules gonna want to paint the orange black though like you said spray paint.
Well. They shot quite hard right out of the box. The 16 joule version gives close to 30 joule. After modding it gives a lot more depending on ammo, gas and temperature. Good luck with the HDP50. Its a very nice pistol and I think you will be very pleased with it.
Thanks my friend. Yes. Just remove the valve-block and you get the same power as the 16 joule with an open valve. Both gives ca 30 joule depending on ammo and temperature.😃
Yes. Thats correct. I only use 850 PSI HPA tank since thats what we have here. I think you can use 1100 PSI. Maybe also a longer barrel will help a lot. Use a lot of silikoneoil to make it more reliable, and dont use to thight slugs/ammo.
you didn’t think about increasing the bullet by 0.5-1mm in diameter. Which would give more energy to the shot. I use 13mm bullets in my hdp 50 and they give very good performance
Hei Angelo. Ammo tror jeg går greit. Men energien er over 10 joule som er grensa i Sverige. Jeg vet ikke hvordan svenske myndigheter tolker loven på disse da den egentilg er en paintball markør og ikke et luftvåpen. Vanlige paintball markører gir ca 12 joule og disse selges fritt også i Sverige... 🤔
@@runerebel8441 ja men visst är det lite oklart? Finns 7.5 j och även 16j att köpa på en svensk hemsida så det borde väl inte vara olagligt då jag är över 18. Sen vet jag inte heller vad som skulle ske om jag faktiskt använde den i självförsvar. Men better safe than sorry. Great video!
Do not use an allen wrench to tighten Gen 3 HDR 68s... weakens the Gen 3 cylinders. I never have to use an allen wrench to tighten an HDR 68, only to loosen it after the shots. I only need to use an allen wrench to tighten my HDP or it won't puncture. If you have arthiritis and can't puncture it without an allen wrench, then you should sell your Gen 3 T4e's trade it for a Gen 2, or put ducttape and thread sealant to reduce the odds of failure. You also should drill a hole in the handle grip or else the polymer grip could explode.
I must use the allen key. I cant screw the cap in with fingers only. But I dont thighten it. Only until it stops then back it off 1/4 turn or so. Never had any problems.
hey man awesome video, if I have the 7.5J version and remove the valveblock, i understand i can get upto 30J. but I will lose number of shots available to me. Can i remove the valveblock and add a restrictor of some sort to bring it up in power but not max it out? Can the restrictor from the 16J version fit into the 7.5J version?
Thanks man. The restrictor from the 16 joule version has threads. There is no threads in the 7,5 joule version. But you can make one from the tip of a used 12 gram CO2 canister. or you can buy one from www.homedefence-24.com 😃👍
Hola por si modifico quitando esa valvula a la umarex hdr .68 de 16 jules hasta cuantos jules llegaria y decime que riesgos puede tener el arma haciendo esa modificacion y que riesgos puede haber para la persona que la usa. Hay posibilidad de que algo funcione mal y reviente el arma dañando a quien la dispare?
Hi. If you modify for more power you risk a back pressure and that can blow out the heat-core O-ring inside the valve. This has happened to me several times and then I had to open it up and fix it. But the marker wont explode because of it since you dont change the CO2 pressure. But dont leave the marker pressurised over time, and dont leave it in the sun.
Hi again and thank you for sharing! So ,i am thinking to remove that restrictor.Is that worthy,really? I can't modify too much my HDR 68 as for Italian laws so i am thinking only to change the upgrade cartridge pincher pin .I would love to full upgrade but i al not so much in need to do so . Removing the block restrictor, neither as I think i will shorten the life of the gun. Mauve upgrading the valve but removing completely i think too much pressure will ruin the cartridge chamber with the time.Upgrading the valve makes sense to me with a little bigger hole , would cope well enough pressure. Thanks Again!
Thanks my friend🙏. Iam glad you like the video. Hmm 🤔. I guess you have the 7,5 joule version. If so it dont have that restrictor, only the valveblock. If this is correct and you only want to make a slight modification then just drill the hole in the valveblock a little larger. This will make it hold a little more CO2 and give it a slight rise in velocity. I have not tested this myself but it should work🤔. Good luck 👍
Thank you again for your kindness and attention.The valve drilled ,in my modest opinion,is safer way to improve the speed than to remove completely the valve , less stress of air for the pistol and dispersion. Maybe I will buy the upgraded valve as I don't have even a drill😅.By the way I have a 16 joules version and will only change the pin which perforates the cartridge and see how it goes with normal valve.(HDR 50 or 68 seems the same) Then I am awaiting for the delivery , today ,of Quattrovolante Silencer extender which appears to reduce 20-22db of BANG ( which is not bad at all actually as far as it is well advertised ) I will see how much it will improve only with the pin and extension and then I can tell you.if you haven't done it already yourself. At the same time I would like to ask you ,do I only need a common screwdriver for the removal of that valve? I checked inside my HDR 68 and looks like the depth of the lines to insert the screwdriver aren't deep enough.Maybe a new version valve? It's sounds odd ,tough but before ruining the valve with the wrong tooll I want to make it sure nothing has changed in the costrution.. I wish you a decent day my friend I have problem of artrosis at my knees after a bar car crash which left myself disabled. Take care.
Hi my friend. Since you have the 16 joule version you have almost max power from right out the box. The only modification you might do to it is drill the small hole in the restrictor that sits in the CO2 tube. That small hole can easily be clogged with dirt. I recommed you drill it with a 1mm drillbit. That should prevent any clogging plus even give a little more power. Good luck and happy shooting 😃@@MirrorMan369
Hey, Just so I understand fully. when you have 16 joule version the is no valve block out the box. You then open the valve behind cannister by taking out the silver round piece and you essentially for 30 joule. But if you buy 7. 5 j version you have to take it apart and from valve block and then open the valve as mentioned above behind cannister to get 30 joule again?
Hey. The 16 joule version has no valveblock. Only a CO2 restrictor inside the CO2 tube. The 7,5 joule version has a valveblock and no restrictor in the CO2 tube. You can use both versions when they have an open valve (no valveblock and no restrictor), and then you will get ca 30 joule from both versions.
@@runerebel8441 I currently have no valve block (removed) and no CO2 tube restrictor, and I get 19.93J max. 3.5g projectiles at 351 FPS, best number. 9th shot is 15.64J Where should I look for the lost power? 5g / 281fps=18J. Not super tight in the cylinder, but not loose either... I see no other restrictions. Thanks for any thoughts. Keep it up!!
@@JohnWixon Thanks. Iam glad you like the video. I have seen the same here. I guess its the temperature. In summer I get much more power than now. Try to use HPA. Then you will always have good velocitys. Or keep the gun and CO2 in a warm space. Try it and let me know how it goes.
@Rune Rebel The HPA adaptor installed with 11.2g round projectiles: First shot: 37.66J, 37.10, 36.53, 36.82, 35.93J 5th shot. 13ci tank started at ~2200Psi, ~1900 psi after final shot. Punched through a 38-page catalog and 12 sheets of 20lb paper in folded in thirds(36) inside a bubble mailer folded in half (4layers) and then through 4 pieces of corrugated cardboard. 10 foot distance. Some wallop. Sub 60⁰ 12g CO2 vs 62⁰ HPA standard HK reg, not 1100psi, no output gauge- assume 850 range- is a major difference.
Hei, helt ny til dette her, nettopp kjøpt meg en HDR 68 16J. Er det bare å skru den ut ? Og er det noen baksider ved å gjøre dette ? Blir den fortere ødelagt f.eks ? Og hva er pluss med og skru den ut ? :) Kan ingenting med dette, så derfor jeg lurer :)
Hei. Bruk den som den er. Hvis du skyter uten restrictor så kan heat-core O-ringen ryke. Uten restrictor får du maks 5 joule mer på første skudd, og kun 5 eller 6 skudd totalt. Viktigste du gjør er å bruke riklig med silikonolje ned i CO2 røret. Dette holder pakninger mye og velsmurte :)
OK. I will see what I can do. There are problems with the screws and threads on that pistol. I just hope I get it back together again after disassembly.... 🤔 But I have very limmited time to film and shot. My grandson is visiting for the summer. If I get the nessessary time I try to make that video 😉
@@travperk Hello my friend. I tryed looking at it today, but the threads and screw on mine is gone. If I try open it one more time its a very hi risk of not having it back together again. Im afraid to open it. Maybe I get hold of another HDP, and then I will open it and make a better video. So stay tuned. It might be sooner than you think 😉
Hello, I'm in Canada and only have access to the 7.5J version. For home defense , would it be better to just remove the valve block for more power or is it worth modifying it using a 16J valve upgrade? Also will simply changing to a 16J valve make it identical to the stock 16J model performance wise?
@@runerebel8441 Thank you very much Rune! I'm just starting to learn about these guns and your videos have been super helpful. Have a few more Qs: - How loud will the 7.5J version be with valve block removed? I live in a detached house in a suburban neighborhood. Will neighbors be able to hear it if I practice in my basement? Do you have any recommendations on how to minimize the noise indoors - What kind of ammo is most lethal & best for defense - What kind of bullet trap do you use - how long can an unpunctured co2 canister be left in the gun for - do I need to add a restrictor for the co2 tube? if so where can I buy one thank you in advance!
@@JayNetral Iam glad to help. Its loud but not like a gun shot. I use mine in an apartment and I dont have any problems with my neighbours. If you shoot in a basement you should not have any problems with sound. I shoot into a box filled with a pillow and old cloths/towels. Works great. Selveral types works great in this marker. A good ammo for it is the aluminium balls. Slugs works great to. You can make your own with the Ammo6 slugmaker from www.homedefence-24.com and he sends world wide. If you puncture the CO2 canister you should not leave the gun charged for more than a day or two. CO2 can harm the seals if gased up over a long time. A restrictor is not needed if you want max power. But you can buy one from homedefence-24 if you want to put it in. Or you can make your own from the tip of a used CO2 canister 😃
@@runerebel8441 thanks so much Rune you're the best! Sorry I have some followup Qs - can I store an intact CO2 canister in the gun for longer periods of time so that it is ready for whenever I might need it in an emergency situation? Will simply having it in there unused also damage the gun? I also saw your other video about the heatcore o ring problem - to avoid this problem from happening would you recommend practicing with a restrictor on and only removing it beforehand when you need max power? How many more shots will I be able to get with a restrictor?
@@JayNetral Thanks my friend. You can have the CO2 canister inside it for as long as you want if you dont hitt the puncture knob. If you dont gas up the gun you are safe and it dont harm it in any way. The problem I had with the heat core O-ring is when I use heavy and tight fitting ammo. This makes some sort of back pressure inside the valve and the O-ring popps out. To prevent this happening just use ammo that can roll or slide out the barrel, or light weight ammo. With a restrictor you get ca 28 joule and 10 full power shots. With an open valve (no restrictor) you get ca 30+ joule and only 4 or 5 shots.
@@mickaelmoulin7303 Iam glad to help. Yes with a larger hole you put more CO2 into the markers. Power will rise but you will get less shots pr CO2 canister
@@runerebel8441 a big thank you to you for these precision and for taking the time to answer my questions, I admire the implication that you put in being precise and rigorous in your videos, you bring a lot for those who watch you. I hope you would make a tutu with the hdr 68 unclamped as well as the passage to the chrono by piercing the restrictor and unclamping the gas chamber. Being French when you put the subtitles in French it doesn't work so I try to understand as best I can lol. good evening to you.
@@mickaelmoulin7303 Thank you my friend. Iam glad to help and Iam glad my videos are helpful. I will make more videos of the HDR68 soon. I can try it with both a modifyed restrictor and the stock/orginal restrictor. Then we will see the diffrence. Take care and have a great evening 😃
Both versions give abouth the same energy when you remove all the restrictors from the CO2 tube and valve. The 16 joule version is easiyer to powertune. Just use a flathead screwdriver and remove the restrictor from the CO2 tube. The 7,5 joule version must be opened up to remove the valveblock. So a little more work on the 7,5 joule. But afther this they both have aprox the same power (30 joule+/-)
Hi my friend. Anything rising the power on these markers is a risk. The backpressure will get hi and the risk of blowing out the heatcore O-ring is large. This goes for all models and powerlevels. I have popped O-rings a few times...
@@garethdimmick5985 Yes it is. Buy them from aliexpress.com and in BUNA-90 hardness. I dont have a link, but ask either Jeff Mackay or NoobT4EGuns. They have bought lots of stuff from china.
Did you installed Valve pin or you just remove the restrictor? I have HDR68 16 J and i bought HOMEDEFENCE-24 Powerkit.68 but in it is the new restrictor...why?
Here I just removed the restrictor. A restrictor will help even out the velocity between shots. But its not needed as I see it. The HDR68 works fine or without the restrictor.
So when i bought that powerkit i should remove the restrictor, installed valve pin and gave restrictor back ? Bcs in that powerkit pack i have some restrictor too...btw. Do you thing that Homedefence powerkit really makes the gun stronger?@@runerebel8441
So when i bought that powerkit i should remove the restrictor, installed valve pin and gave restrictor back ? Bcs in that powerkit pack i have some restrictor too...btw. Do you thing that Homedefence powerkit really makes the gun stronger? @runerebel8441 @@runerebel8441
It depends on the model. The only model you need some form of powerkit on to make it work is the HDR50. On all the other models you can just remove parts to make them more powerful. However a long tuning barrel is always helpful for more power.@@gellertgrindelwald3257
@@1mikage You will get ca 5 joule more on the first shot if you remove the restrictor. But you risk popping the heat core O-ring dooing so. I have blown the heat-core O-ring a few times. Not fun when it happends. If you put in a Buna 90 O-ring then you can use it without the restrictor. Then put in a long barrel and use it with 1100 PSI HPA. That should give you well over 50 joules.
No. If I want more power I just remove the restrictor.. You can drill the hole in the restrictor larger, but I wouldnt have drilled it larger than 1mm. I will tinker with my homemade restrictor and see what size will give a good balance between power and shot-count. Stay tuned for more videos 😉
@@runerebel8441 Just checked my TR-50 and found it lacks such a restrictor disc! This is a new gun I received about a month ago after a shipping delay of some three months. Amazon was out of stock. Looks like I'll have to install the 11 Joule valve.
@@conniecostigan637 Then you got the 7,5 joule version. Just remove the valveblock and install a Powerkit50 from www.homedefence-24.com plus a long barrel, and you will have max power 😃. Or you can buy the 11 joule valve if you can get hold of one. Just remember to remove the valveblock from it before you install it. Good luck 😃
@@conniecostigan637 From what I can remember the 11 joule with the valveblock installed gives max ca 15 joule or so with heavy slugs. Without the valveblock and same ammo you can get ca 18-20 joule.
Hi rune so all you did was to remove the restrictor with a screwdriver? Here in South Africa the shops ask about zar 100 to zar 200 to bring the joules up for the hdr .50. So you can do it yourself on the. 50 hdr ?.I wonder what the joules will be after restrictor is removed?Thanks
Hi my friend. Yes all I did was remove the restrictor with a screwdriver. The HDR50 normaly must have the restrictor in place, or it might dump all the CO2 on the first shot. The best mod for the HDR50 is to remove the valveblock, not the restrictor. With the valveblock removed you can get ca 20 joule or so on a warm day with heavy ammo.
@@Derekfacha Yes. For airguns it works. Not sure I try that in my markers since they are all made of plastic and potmetal... However I use both siliconespray and teflonespray and never had any dieseling...
Hey Rune, please forgive my questions that relate to the HDR 50. I have simply managed to get confused (a natural state for me, some would say?). Having total respect for local laws and being aware that there are people who just don't care? having had a recent injury myself, well I cannot lay down the fists of 'finality' without some sort of chance to even consider that I can't protect my family and myself in these uncertain times. So, please correct me if I am wrong and delighted to get your opinion; The 7.5 Joule HDR 50 actually has a bigger chamber (once the block is removed) than the 11Joule version. This says to me that the 7.5 J has a greater potential for accidentally missing a part and ending up more powerful? It would be nice to have 12 full power shots but I would settle for 6. I know you used the top of a CO2 cylinder to have some kind of break on the gas but the referee is out, what bore to drill it? If you might consider that I have a 7.5 J HDR , want maximum 12 shots, is there some reason that I can't take the standard 7.5 J and simply change the valve block (bore it out?). I have to admit, I don't entirely understand the release mechanism, other than to guess it's spring loaded, hence the different firing pins? Sorry to be pedantic, and I'll only get this chance once but the scum I might need to drive away are the kind of people that nobody likes. Additional; For the HDR 50, given a choice, would you opt for the 7.5 J version, knowing that it might be 'tuned'? One other question, the extended steel barrel seems to cost more than the original weapon? I could think of much cheaper alternatives and a smooth bore barrel shouldn't cost that much,who is taking the piss here? As always, respect and Pax.
Hey my friend. I have worked on both valves, and from my tests its clear that the volume inside the 7,5 joule version is a bit larger. I tried to fit the valveblock from the 7,5 joule version into the 11 joule version, but it didnt fit. It was to large. So with powertuning you can expect the 7,5 joule to give more power if all else is equal. If you dont want to buy the Powerkit50 and tuning parts then you can just remove the valveblock and install a pice from a CO2 canister as a restrictor. The hole in the restrictor should be max 1mm. Orginaly in the 11 joule version its 0,2mm. If you cant buy ammo/slugs then cast them yourself. You can use the cylinder in the gun as mould. Use a Q-tip and rub oliveoil (or similar) in every chamber. Place it on a wax/baking paper. fill with hotglue. For more energy put a BB (or more) into the chamber when filling it with the hotglue. Making slugs this way makes the ammo fit perfectly in your cylinder. For longer barrel you can use 1/2" copperpipe and cut to length. Good luck my friend 😃👍
@@runerebel8441 Thank you so much Rune, fairly sure I know how to proceed now. That was a great video when you showed the CO2 restrictor (cuy down) and seems to me that 0.5 mm might be the sanest approach. A 'power-kit' is definitely on my christmas list and I would be happy to pay for a steel' tuned barrel' if it didn't cost £168. Why? Like you said yourself, 1/2 inch copper pipe but you'd need to be exact in the fitting? Not beyond my scope thankfully. Speaking ot 'thankful' well, shucks thank you so much and an embarrassing hug from afar.... you mentioned previously that your grandson was going to visit? Get earplugs and have a great time! Pax always and my many thanks, Connor
@@conmcgrath7174 Thanks my friend. Iam tinkering with modded First Strike paintball-slugs. Hopefully I post a video tomorrow. So stay tuned for more videos 😃. Cheers from your friend in Norway 😃👍
Hei. Slike kuler tror jeg er forbudt her i landet. Tror heller ikke de vil fungere i disse kraftige revolverene. Jeg vil tro de sprekker i løpet når du skyter.
@@olevoi6121 Bare hyggelig å kunne hjelpe. Beste ammoen støper du selv. Kjøp en AMMO6V2 støåeform fra www.homedefence-24.com 😃. Da går du aldri tom for ammo. De selger også ferdig slugs og kuler plus trimmdeler etc.
Hello my friend. Its best to have it in place. I just wanted to see if I could get more power from it. I have put the restrictor back inside the gun now :)
Well. The 16 joule version gives ca 27 joule with heavy ammo, so it rise the power abouth 8 joule or so if removing the restrictor. I think max energy I had from it is ca 34 joule 🤔
@@runerebel8441 I took the restrictor out of my HDP50. Instead of the usual 18 shots, it only managed 7. In theory, that could mean an increase of up to 2.57x power. That would mean 28 Joules out of the 11J model. I still have to measure it on chronograph to see what I actually got. Sadly I don't have a radar chrono but a cheap airsoft chrono, that gets confused with the CO2 gasses, so I have to shoot from a distance and risk hitting the chrono. That's the only reason I haven't measured it yet... But clearly, there will be an increase in power, considering the drastically increased CO2 use.
@@deezeemb Yes. That sounds abouth right. I only get 7 shots from my HDR68 when it has an open valve to. The power with heavy balls should be over 30 joules now 😃👍
@@runerebel8441 I did another test, and it seemed to only manage 6 shots. Power at 6th shot was down to 7 Joules. A few times I hit the chrono, so I got weird readings and one time it measured 70 Joules, but I think it confused the CO2 fog with the rubber ball. I did get one reasonable reading of just over 25 Joules. I wish I had a more reliable chrono, so I could see consistency. If gas is being wasted, I could try drilling larger and larger holes into the restrictor and putting it back in, until I get 6 shots of somewhat even power...
The HDR50 must have that restrictor or it blow all the gass out on the first shot. Its strange that the HDR68 can work without it since the 50 cal version dont 🤔
@@illiapanov7677 I have not tested it without the restrictor, but I guess it will blow out all the CO2 on the first shot. I will make a video testing this if interested 🤔
Due to the smaller *volume* of the 50's bore, the 68 allows for a faster pressure equalization between bolt strokes/sear timing, and the bore volume *'dump' vs AC pressure... which allows the spring to overcome the air pressure and seal the valve/engage the sear before dumping the CO2 cartridges entire contents on the first shot. ( * dump = the point at which the projectile leaves the muzzle, the remaining air escapes and, the internal barrel pressure becomes ambient.) I'm not sure if that description makes any sense, but it's what happens. lol The same effect occurs when you lengthen or shorten the valve pin. CO2/HPA flow efficiency would then be determined by the flow regulator/restricter hole size once the valve pin length/timing for that given velocity is determined? Am I way off base here, or did I just have a stroke? lol
@@jkg6211 Thanks for the info. This is correct. My english isnt the best so I try to avoid explaining this stuff. I hope you didnt have a stroke 😆. Thanks again. Take care and have a great day 😃👍
The 16 joule version is maxed out from the factory. For ca 5 joule more power you can remove the restrictor in the CO2 tube. On the 7,5 joule version you must remove the valve block. For even more power buy the long barrel for it. That should give you between 35 to 40 joule with heavy ammo 😃
