Year 2000: upgrade to more gears, it's just better. Year 2020: upgrade to less gears, it's just better. Year 2040: just give us your money and walk, walking is better.
@@radiocontrolled9181 I see you’ve wandered through a bunch of comments leaving your 2 cents. In response to your statement here, no, you don’t really have 21 gears with a 3x7 etc. On paper you might think you have 3x7 = 21 gears, but in reality, much less. Consider that: "twisting" the chain. For example the front big gear and the rear big gear affects the yield of your pedaling and also the life of the chain, so you won't do it too often, I know you get that grinding sound on your Tourney, I know it. 😉 And some of the combinations front-back are so close that they are practically redundant you end up having like 8 or 9 actual speeds.
@@mattjns My drivetrain is very smooth because I keep it clean, lubed and well adjusted. It works perfectly and is quite silent too. Yep, it's not 21 gears true. But I can safely tell you that I use 16 of them regularly with no grinding or issues. The cross chaining issue exists for the 3x and moreso for the 1x. There was a time when this cross chaining subject was very popular and very much discussed and debated. But abracadabra! once the marketing gurus came out with the 1x 'invention' ..... Puff!! It vanished and they no longer mentioned it. Why? Hehhe not because it vanished but because it''s not in their interest now to speak about it anymore 😉 But it's still there and in some cases even more pronounced than with 3x drivetrains.
@@radiocontrolled9181 Good to hear! Well I guess that’s you opinion I’m happy for you to have it. I recently swapped over to a 1x11 on my mtb. I had a 3x7 that I ran on the middle ring 95% of the time anyway. The no frills / quick shifting on trails on a 1x is no joke. And I’m curious why a lot of people think chainline angle is extremely exaggerated on a 1x ? I mean, yeah, maybe a little. My mtb is literally upside down next to me in my living room (my wife’s away, I’m not stupid 😉) I had my old 7x cassette in my hand holding it up to the 11x just prior …….and I mean, the largest sprocket is almost in the same spot. Maybe the 11 is like 5mm closer to the spokes? Tops? Anyway, works for me. I also love the clean look of a tidier bar setup and no front derailleur. That’s just me. 👍🏼
nicely done video - I don't think most people can appreciate the time it takes to get these shots! I was going to do this myself until you started machining custom spacers and screws!
I've gone back to my 2 x 9 system from a 1 x 11 system because of cross chaining and fewer gears. My chain started creaking on the largest cog...thought it to be dirty...only to realize that it creaked because it is cross chaining...putting strain on its individual rivets. Though its only 9 speed..11-34 with a 38-24 front...my drive train is more stress free than my 1x 11-46 set-up.
Great video, but don't forget than the chain has two sides, one with letters and other without letters. The side with letters must be side out. Sunrise save the life... it's no necessary to change free hub system to micro-spline. :)
Glad I’m not the only one who went back to 2x10. The chainline and stretched out rear derailleur on 1x always drove me crazy. I prefer 2x xtr/xo mix for marathon racing and all day rides.
I like my double with 36/22t chainrings. On the road I never switch to smaller chainring, and on offroad I never switch to bigger. It's damn perfect setup.
For me too, the best setup is 2 X 10, I don't change it for anything, I never go back to 1 X 11 again. The 2 X 10 covers both flats and roads as well as mountains.
@@deusexaethera yep…range, chainline, terrain, etc was an afterthought. They were so focused on making a single chainring work that they whiffed on the rest of the system. The 1x11 (32x42) low gear is proof. And 32x10 is spun out on open sections especially marathon races.
I had a 8 speed 12 to 28 with 42 chainring that was enough . It's not to hilly here . On some short steep hills I went to 2nd gear 24 tooth But had to go to a 11 to 32 because it was the only thing available . Which will be fine
You should take derailleur slx and shifter - xt, as xt shifter has double down feature, while slx doesn't have. Maybe you will just change shifter in future
Not my business, but it's better to have xt shifter with slx rear derailleur, not opposite. Xt shifter have multiple click to up and down, and slx doesn't, and it's very comfortable. Xt shifter + slx rd work as good as xt + xt. Slx shifter + xt rd work as slx + slx.
I like how you show the tools before each step thank you very much for great instruction. Almost robotic with the graphic way you display each component. Very cool
Watching this made me realize how badly I wish there was a media platform that allowed for the talking through of what is happening rather than just having to look at pictures and figure it out. Oh wait, thats what RU-vid is.
I don't normally like these sorts of videos when the RU-vid creator doesn't verbalize what he or she is doing. But this video is the exception and is very good indeed!
One mistake,chain is WRONG mounted......reed please instructions on chain package. 🙏🙏🙏🙏 Letters should be seen from right side. And please use xt trigger....MUCH better.
I find that the claim "1x makes Cycling easier" to be ridiculous and insane. All you're doing is pushing a button to make grades easier. In maybe just 2 hours you can memorize the ideal gearing on a 2x for every gradient. Not to mention it's faster shifting. I think 1x is just a way to milk more money out of cyclists.
Lol are you joking its a full downgrade.... more gears is even better i had a dual drive system 3x8 and a crankset with 3 chainrings i got 72 gears more ❤
Im not a big fan of 1x drive mainly because it gives me less possible gears to choose from and the chain is a lot thinner but you do what you do shifting the front while cruising through the trail does seem a bit of a hassle
Tja, hättest du gewartet, hättest du dir die deore 12fach holen können. Hab ich bei meinem Steppenwolf gemacht : Ritzel sunrace ( wie du), Kette Kmc, Kurbel Truvativ stylo, Schaltwerk Deore, Schalthebel Deore. Kosten :185 €.
The main advantage of this drive is - you don't have to think about the gear ahead. Imagine you have 2 gear levers in your car. You simply shift with one lever. You will have a clear head for other things ... It's a great idea :)
1x drivetrain gives too much stress & strain on your RD. It wouldn't be a problem if you have money to spare. Mine is 2x10 and my bike is almost 5 years old but my RD still performs as it was new.
yeah you nailed it exactly, big semis travel ocean to ocean through deserts mountains blizzards and all they like taking little bit of extra weight and maintenance cost, just for fuel economy on such diverse roads. If you are like a pro biker and have a trailer full of bikes each special for its occasion and are driven everywhere by car then sure go for 1 by If you have a bike and like to ride it bit of everywhere then gear shifter is your friend.
I dont think you need the chainguide for that narrow-wide chainring plus the tension from the clutch. Just my opinion I run the same chainring and never had a chaindrop
Galing ako sa 3x stock.. Nag upgrade sa 1x 12s kaso diko nagustuhan bumalik parin ako sa 3x, this time 22-32-44t Crank at 9-40t cog... Walang sinabe ung 32tchainring at 50t cog sa ahon.
im sorry if this question is stupid but i couldnt clearly see it. at the moment im riding with 2x10 but i want to do the same thing like you. some people told me that i need another hub that 12x cassette fits on the rear how can i check this without removing my actual cassette?
@@PaulXchannel mine is a slx hub but I don't know how old it is because I bought the bike on ebay last year All I know that the bike ist from 2014 or something like that
I've done the same conversion. But Just recently I went back to 2 in the front and ten in the back. In my opinion it keeps the chain more symmetrical or straight when you can switch between the gears. I find that one in the front and more in the back keeps the chain at more of an angle. I just have a better feel when you can keep the chain straight by switching from small to big and vice versa. In my view one in the front is just fad and you can never beat the " old school". But each to their own.
I agree with you, the small gear in front with the big gears in the back 1,2,3,4 and the bigger one in the front with the smaller in the back 5,6,7,8, i believe its make the chaine less tension that way.
Of course! I never swallowed the media marketing bullshit lies that going from 20 gears (2x10) to 12 (1x12) is an 'upgrade'. Vice versa it would make much sense of course , , , , but most people are fed lies and they swallow them like a fish swallows its bait. I will stick to my trusty old school 3x7 which shifts super smooth with a cheap Tourney derailleur. Just converted the rear wheel from Freewheel to Cassette coz I kept bending/breaking the rear axle.
@@radiocontrolled9181you are swallowing "media marketing bs" right now, you just arent smart enough to notice. A 2x10 has less than 15 unique usable gears. You are falling for smoke and mirrors like every other educational mishap in our society.
You use a tork wrench on the bolts for the chainring but not on the crank arm and no grease on the pedals thread. That's a little weird. But i like how you made your own bolts.
Everything functions properly ru-vid.comUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Nothing was damaged in the box aside from a decal on the fork. The decal was missing a piece of a corner but I ended up peeling them off anyways. Assembly is easy BUT make sure you tune up the derailleurs. Both the front and rear need adjusting. I'd advise going to a bike shop but I opted out and put in 10+ hours with the help of RU-vid. Ended up fraying a shifter cable but all in all I learned from the experience. The Brakes work well but the front caliper needs adjusting or at least mine did because the rotor was rubbing against the pads. Make sure you swap out the seat, grips, and pedals. For the short run you'll be fine though. I've read that this bike isn't built yet for hard trails but I just need it for the city. PA has some of the worst roads and being in a mountain this was a great choice. Worth the investment!
I'm looking for a full, complete Shimano 2x9 Alivio groupset, including crankset, cassette, chain, derailleurs, shifters, brakes. Unfortunately, I live in Cambodia, where for years I've tried to buy it from the dealers. But bicycle dealers (the most legitimate operators in the country!!) here only want to sell bicycles, and not get involved in service beyond original bike assembly. I've tried ordering it online. I had the package shipped with a tracking number, but tracking seemed to 'disappear' (not an isolated incident in the least here!; it's happened to me many times. There is absolutely zero safeguarding of buyer purchases or supervision in the parcel shipping process. Cambodians simply claim packages from the USA without even knowing what's inside. They figure they can sell it if they don't want it.) once it arrived in Cambodia. I refuse to put fraudulent, Chinese copy parts on my bike, or engage in that activity. OEM Shimano or nothing. Can anyone help me?
I'have 26 inches with 7 speed freewheel in back with 3 speed crankset I want to convert 3 speed crankset into 1speed crank set how much teeth crankset i should buy Is crankset with 42 teeth suitable or not Because i mostly ride on plane roads
That is useless. I have a 20 year old bike. One 9 speed marin and a 8 speed special stump jumper. Love them both. Wouldn't change it for a one speed in the front. 48 tooth for my big sprocket. Those useless one speed. Do up get up to 50 or 75 klm per hour. No I didn't think so. Useless pice of crap.
HACE UNOS DIAS PUBLIQUE UN COMENTARIO SOBRE LA TRASMISIÓN DE UNA BICICLETA, Y PREGUNTANDO SOBRE SU FISICA/MECANICA ETC... PERO AQUI ME EXPLICO MEJOR, EN EL SIGUIENTE TEXTO EXPRESARE LO QUE EN VERDAD QUERIA DECIR: El DISCO MOTRIZ (el plato) al agarrar mas cadena aumenta la velocidad, no deberia ser lo mismo con el DISCO CONDUCIDO? (el pińon/cassette) si agarra mas cadena ser mas rapido asi como pasa en el PLATO, es algo que me he cuestionado toda la vida🧐🧐🧐🧐...... AUNQUE si, por ser lo contrario ( por ser DISCO CONDUCIDO) lo que pasa en el DISCO delantero occurre lo distinto en el DISCO trasero ( plato CONDUCIDO) AUNQUE no se por que es mas suave cuando agarra mas cadena 🤔( el DISCO trasero/el pińon ) que cuando agarra menos cadena, no deberia ser al contrario? 🤔🤔🤔 AUNQUE si, también se por que es mas LENTO Y SUAVE cuando esta en la primera velocidad es por que los dientes al agarrar mas cadena se va a necesitar menos esfuerzo, pero se va a demorar mas al dar una vuelta completa y RAPIDO y DURO cuando esta en la ultima velocidad es mas RAPIDO 🙂 por que la cadena no necesita hacer mucho recorrido para dar una vuelta completa y es mas DURO por que tiene menos dientes para mover la llanta trasera ( hagamos de cuenta que los dientes del pińon son personitas) EN CAMBIO CON EL DISCO DELANTERO (PLATO /DISCO MOTRIZ/DISCO CONDUCTOR) como dije al principio es todo lo CONTRARIO el DISCO DELANTERO al agarrar mas cadena, va a Jalar mas (supongamos de nuevo que los dientes de los DISCOS sean personitas) por eso aumentara la velocidad y cuando agarra menos cadena esas personitas como son menos, se van a demorar mas para jalar mas. por eso es mas lento. NOTA: tenia dudas de la trasmisión de una bicicleta, me parece algo CURIOSO 🤔🧐🙂 AUNQUE para ello a la vez tenia su respuesta, pero haciendo este escrito se me iban ACLARANDO UN POCO MAS, Y que raro en una moto es todo lo contrario, el DISCO de adelante es pequeño AUNQUE se por que..... por las altas revoluciones del motor 😄😄😄 SALUDOS DESDE MEDELLIN COLOMBIA 🇨🇴 🇨🇴🇨🇴🇨🇴🇨🇴🇨🇴
Lmao nice "upgrade" you put lower end 1by parts then your 2by and you lost a bunch of gear range not to mention the added unsprung weight. That's not an upgrade that's a downgrade.
Ive always had a front derailleur and now im 1x11 and its terrible. I do a new chain every 400 miles and the gears are never right, im just messing with the bloody thing all the time.
nooo, why did you put red threadlocker onto the chainring bolts 😩 it's super hard to take off and you'll probably need to heat the bolts to loosen them... use blue threadlocker in the future
PERFECT! O.L.D OF MY BIKE IS 135mm, do you recommend in this configuration the same as you did in this UP grade?, and I can't find this cassette, I find the MZ901 THE MZ903, CAN YOU SAY SOMETHING? GRATITUDE
Call me crazy, but for a budget upgrade, I like prev gen SLX 11sp + new SLX derailleur and Deore m5100 cassette: the range is the same, parts are cheaper, and the Deore 11-51 cassette is lighter than the Sunrace CS-MZ800. You have one less cog in the middle but to be honest, I've ridden the SRAM SX Eagle and this SLX/Deore mix and I don't really miss the extra cog and the shifting is even better than SRAM SX Eagle.
Sir pwede po ba maka hinge advice tungkol sa MTB ko toseek bago bili, nka 1x8 cia gusto ko po sana 2x10 n setup na palit ko ano po ba tamang teeth s harap at likoran
nice and concise vid. did the swap on 2x10 2014 stumpjumper, pf30 crank. no need for home made washers and bolts for the chainring, bought fm alixpres for less than $10. used sram nx derailleur/shifter, gx chain and no-name chainring and cassette. total $200, most went to sram components. so far works great.
LOL shortening you chain like that is the recipe for ripping rear derailleur off or bad shift quality. You need to RTFM 😉 If you a on a limited budget you should have considered choosing the SLX rear derailleur and the XT shifter as you’d get better functionality at the cost of a bit of extra weight. I fully understand that the choice of rear derailleur and shifter you made looks better.
