I love how you're approaching this car, Milan. A billet or stupidly stiff polyurethane set of mounts might be ideal for pure track and race use, but racecars are beaten hard without much regard for long term longevity and livability during normal street use. These mounts significantly improve overall handling and safety of the car without compromising chassis longevity and comfort since they still absorb the vast majority of the metal fatigue inducing high frequency vibrations but are actually stiff enough to hold things where they should be on low frequency motion inputs such cornering, accelerating/braking.
I appreciate it brother! 👊 I try to tackle mods systematically. If you've been around for awhile, even with my MINI, more power was never the first thing. Handling always came first!
Milan your videos are very focused and instrumental as if you are teaching a class. You and AnthonyJ350 set the standard. I just wished the RU-vid community as it pertains to the Z platform could follow.
I don't have a Z but do I wish you owned all the cars I have so I can follow your DIY steps. You're very good presenter and instructions are top notch! My S2000 engine, trans, and diff mounts helped as well and subframe collars, but being that it's a low torque car... you don't "feel it" as much I think
I'd love to my get hands on an S2k! I've heard they're amazing street cars. Yeah I can see how you wouldn't notice as much of a difference. I feel it also has to do with the OEM design of the mounts.
Dude every time I watch your 370z videos I literally go to Z1’s website and buy more parts. In today’s case just waiting for Black Friday to order upper and lower intake manifolds, and now I’ll be buying these mounts for my 6MT G37 sedan. Z1 should def sponsor you. I also live 45 minutes away from Z1 meaning I can have these parts the same day which doesn’t help.
Good video. I did the same thing, adding stiffer bushings and mounts. Different car same concept. Everything you've said is true, this is the way it should have come from the factory.
Thanks Joe! Yeah its insane how much of a difference it is. Even driving the civic, bone stock, it feels so 'sloppy' compared to this now with the upgraded mounts.
hi, i drive an 08 g35s w/ 5AT. i have new vibration at idling (even when the car is fully warmed up) after installing new aftermarket (ebay, Westar) engine and transmission mounts, but i had no issues with 16 years old mounts… Is it because they need some break-in period until they mounts settle in by themselves? Or shall i check each nut’s torque again? (I don’t think the mechanic used torque wrench…) Or is it because they are cheap low quality mounts?.. Please advise me!..
So my 6mt g37 shifter moves a lot (like forward towards the engine ) when I accelerate mildly Just installed my z1 trans mount and that didn’t fix my issue Just ordered z1 motor mounts , do you think this would fix my issue 152k OG motor mounts so I’m assuming so if anyone has had same issue pls chime in
That transmission mount made my car vibrate so badly I put the OEM one back in. It’s also fully adjustable, but comes with no adjustment instructions. So it’s possible I had it adjusted wrong.
@@staypositive4358 I had a set of Hotchkis anti-sway bars installed on my 370Z sport coupe and the difference in handling was significantly better, at the expense of a somewhat harsher ride. The car is much more responsive on the turn-in and has nearly no body roll on cornering. There is less front-end drop when I go over a driveway dip at an angle, and so my chin spoiler has less tendency to scrape the ground.
Why didn’t u put threadlocker on the transmission mount bolts? And it looked like red threadlocker was originally on the bolts. Why didn’t u use that? I’m not questioning you by the way. Just curious. You clearly know what you’re doing. So I just wanted to know why u did it this way. Thanks. Love the video
The transmission mount was super easy to install only took 20 minutes and surely feels like it puts down more to the wheels. But do realize the car will have more sound and vibration
nice! i have poly mounts on my evo 2, both engine and the whole suspension, with balance shaft delete and damn my whole body gets massage every time i drive. it is not a daily by any means
Great video...but those bushings compliment each other...cofunctioning together to minimize movement. When you upgrade one but not the other...the original will deflect more...so it's not a fair comparison to both original bushings or both upgraded. But still cool to see how they interact
That is very true! The mounts in a FWD platform are more important than RWD since everything happens up front! I've gone through multiple axles on my Accord since the mounts were so soft
Going to SOHO motorsports this week to get my Z1 diff bushings and my CMAK external slave cylinder installed. These look like good future mods as well. Good luck on your build.
hey man nice job. is that the original paint on your car? I was wondering what that color is called. I have a 2004 Touring and the silver is darker than that. I want to get it repainted a brighter tone.
Honestly can’t wait for the diff video. I did my own Diff and mounts, I went with the Tomei LSD and the lock up is great but sometimes the clicking can get really annoying. Probably something wrong I did, but from the looks of the forums it’s normal. I will probably change it out eventually to a helical LSD and go away from Clutch lsd. The fluid definitely makes a difference. If you do end up going with tomeis 1.5 LSD, instead of shelling out $50 for their fluid, I’ve used an equivalent GL-5 80W-90 fluid like valvoline and mixed it with a bottle of friction modifier and it works perfectly fine and doesn’t click as much. I tried to give redline a chance but it doesn’t work quite as well. I also have the same color but a 2014 Base 6MT. Currently pushing 340 whp and 272 wtq. Tuned with Tomei and Z1 cold air intakes. I love the progress of your car and it’s perfect since I get to see what wheels would look good on my car while you do all the work haha. Awesome videos and keep it up!
I'm pumped for it too! I'm going with the Nismo GT Pro 1.5 Way. I like how it is adjustable, without having to disassemble the diff. I'm okay with a bit of noise here and there, as long as it performs well! I have lots coming for this car, and I know you'll enjoy it if you've upgraded things like your diff already! What mods do you have that got you to 340?
milanmastracci My setup is Z1 cold air intakes with test pipes and ISR Y pipe. Paired with a Tomei Catback. The single exit exhaust is the biggest gain I believe. Since my friend has the same setup except he has dual exit. Eventually I’d love to go FI but whenever I’m actually willing to spend those funds.
Hi Milan, apologies for this off topic comment. I'm hitting a little snag on my 09 Accord coupe. I'm replacing the door seal, driver's side. There is plastic body trim holding the gasket along the bottom. I can't find any fasteners. Does this trim snap out somehow? Thanks, appreciate the help. Tom
Love your clarity and directions in all your videos. I was curious on your point of view about a issue I've been having. My steering shaft u joint connection bolt seems to get caught on the heat wrap around my headers only when I break and take sharp right turns. It never does when turning sharp left or while driving normally. With your best judgment do you think the Solid Motor Mounts would keep the engine from shift on me?
The upgraded engine mounts will definitely help with the engine from leaning onto the steering shaft & the u-joint. What headers are you running? I ran into this issue with my OBX headers, however after switching them out for PPE headers, I've had no issues. The engine mounts will be a solid move in the right direction. I don't know if I'd suggest changing the factory mounts for solid ones, but polyurethane was perfect for me. Stiff enough to prevent the engine from moving in the engine bay, and still more than tolerable in the cabin from low NVH. Hope that helps!
@@milanmastracci thank you for your thoughts and I have the ISR shorty headers wrapped with Motordyne Art pipes. The polyurethane looks and sounds much better then going solid, I'm just curious how much more added cabin noise it will make considering it's already high now with full exhaust changed out.
40k kilometers = ~25k miles. The only reason why this looks the way it does is because it doesn't see winter, and it hardly sees rain. Any vehicle here that sees winter looks absolutely atrocious, even vehicles a couple years old..
Have the same mounts. Plus the poly diff bushings on my G37 6MT that is similarly tuned (UpRev) and you are absolutely correct. Huge improvement without much cost and little to no downside.
@@milanmastracci hard to remember what it was when still stock, it was very sloppy. The diff bushings, then tune, then mounts, then lightweight flywheel each improved as the build continued. Coilovers in the next few weeks so I am excited to see the change in handling characteristics.
@@dreednlb At the very start of the video, there is a clear dark mark under his right eye over his cheeks. It was there even on his previous video as well. If you still don't see anything different, watch his 2weeks old video "Foam Cannon & Pressure washer setup" one (beyond 7.40 minutes you'll be able to see his face clearly). Following him for 3 years now, definitely remember that was never there before.
