I bought a drop in replacement aftermarket kicker 6x9s they are loud, accurate, and they have so so much bass…it’s amazing what a drop in replacement can do with an aftermarket deck
The problem with my Toyota system is the downgraded the quality of the Head unit so it would damage the tissue paper they gave me that they claim is a 6x9. I noticed a huge difference when I finally switched out my head unit. Then there was another noticeable difference when I ran that through a Skar 200.4 amp.
@@cloudyviewi just put 2 pairs of jbl 609 gtos in my doors paired with a skar 4ch 500w rms amp and a single 10in infinity ref1000s paired with an infinity 550w amp. System gets super loud and crystal clear. If you like more bass id advise getting a slightly heavier subwoofer but it does well for having a 3inch mounting depth
@@jacobwebb8818 That's simply not true. Idk about the skar though class Dnin general has improved a LOT the lest few year's. If someone would show you a Purifi amplifier you wouldn't even question it's sound quality. It's just amazing!
@@kaedeschulz5422 You literally ignored the whole point of my comment when you said "Idk about Skar, but the rest of the industry..." And yes, I know Skar makes A/B amps, and I've heard door speakers played out of a class d amp, it sounds okay for an average person but for someone who actually likes music, class A/B is where it is really at. No one is running Skar to be the best of the best, it's the best option for people on a budget (literally ZERO shame in budgeting) in 90% of case scenarios. Me, I'd rather buy a 10 year old class A/B than a new class d amp for sound quality (ignoring subs)
The real difference is the impedance in oem car amp a lot of them use 2ohm and people will put 4ohm aftermarket speaker and loose a lot of output. Is important to match the impedance. Also Most oem speaker are full range and aftermarket are more mid bass made to be use with a subwoofer.
Well what I've always recommended to people who are in this situation is to look for a speaker with a high SPL. You get a speaker with a 90 or a 92 SPL it should sound quite nice with a stock stereo system. The lower that number say like 88 SPL the harder it's going to be for the stock amplifier to drive those speakers. Buying an external amplifier is not always necessary if you can find one, a speaker that is, with a high sensitivity rating. The higher that rating is the easier the speakers are to drive.
For sure JBL. I can tell you that the GX series works well with the stock head unit in my 2024 Corolla. The 6.5" ones are 3 ohms so maybe that helps as they are easier for the head unit to drive.
Check out the infinity speakers with the plus one cone. They come as 3 ohm and are pretty efficient too. Also , check out some pioneer max series speakers as they also are in the higher db scale and may take a while to break in but I have a set from previous years and they got louder as you use them. It's getting only 22w RMS from deck solid, and yeah it'll get loud once you push it.
Can we talk about how water can affect speaker performance. My hondas back right door has had this issue since the day i brought it home from the dealer. At first i thought the crackling noise was a blown speaker. But after the third speaker swap i noticed alot of corrosion on the speaker leads. And the roadkill foam insulation was saturated in water. I siliconed pasted all of my connections and the terminal post until i can find where the water is coming through or create a new weep hole for the water to escape through. Previous speakers were some polk audios. Current speakers are ct sound mesos running on 50.4 A/B i love the warm tone they have
I’m planning on doing 2 18s in my f150 gonna do some build videos/updates soon subs and amp otw bddc4 18s and tamps bass 8k for future sub upgrade planning on eventually running 2 dc audio level 3 18s
@@ubeuonly Yes you can. Some models are easier than others. Toyotas are a breeze to swap head units out in. Hondas....... not so much but they like hooking their sound to other systems!
@@tobybigham4196 of course you can interface I'm speaking of removing and replacing with aftermarket with Integrated Controls. It never looks good or functions well
@@ubeuonly That is exactly what I am talking about. Which is why I mentioned Honda making the mistake of connecting unnecessary sub-systems to the infosystem. But depending on your knowledge level of the various wires, you can hook up most systems that are designed well. Some of the cheap Chinese junk won't work obviously without a bit of rewiring, and even then there are times it just doesn't interface. But I haven't had those issues with most aftermarkets that are recommended on Crutchfield. Again, this will test your ability to understand wiring diagrams! It is rare that I don't have to rewire something!
The last time I upgraded my car speakers was many years ago, I had a car with 4 speakers with 2 tweeters. But today’s cars can have like 18 speakers. I’m curious, if you want to do an upgrade now, do you need to replace all 18 of them?
Lol, I put a BMW 5 series 10 channel amp in my Mini when the Harmon Kardon amp died. Sounds great. I would not give money to any aftermarket company, re-use high end stock stuff.
I am preparing to upgrade my factory Class A diesel pusher motorhome audio suite as it sounds horrific. Not looking for a powerhouse, just good clean accurate sound with more depth because right now the speakers sound like frying pans. To replace what I have currently, I have 4 Rockford Fosgate P1675 Punch 6.75-Inch 3-Way Coaxial Full-Range Speakers, a Kenwood eXcelon DMX958XR head unit, a Kenwood Excelon X302-4 Class D 600 Watts max and I am cheaping out on a temporary Rockville SS8P 400 Watt Slim Under-Seat Powered Car/Truck Subwoofer as I am concerned that this config may fall short on bass. It is only $100, I have spent my wad on everything else, don't judge lol. As everything is sitting in the corner waiting for installation, I am doing my wiring plan. I can't find anything on how to select power wire for a diesel pusher. Here is the issue. Motor and batteries in the back of my 36 Ft motorhome and the head unit and amp is in the front, Ahh the plot thickens... If the Amp and the sub will draw 90 Amps at max like you discuss in your videos that is a ton of wire but I can't even find a table to calculate the gage. Having said this, I do have a curveball. There is a front chassis fuse panel that has two power leads chassis and house and as near I can tell the panel is also 90 Amps but I am not sure the factory wire could support 180 Amps in total. I don't think 00 wire could support 180 Amps over that distance but if it could I would fuse and wire from the front panel with 8 or 10 gauge to the amp. It would probably be easier and cheaper to just wire from the back to the front directly to the amp. But like I said, I cant figure out what gauge to use over 36-40 Ft to deal with the 90 Amp max draw. Thanks for your input!!
What would you suggest to replace my 2011 Tahoe door speakers with . I’ve got a aftermarket head unit .. no amps or anything. Just want to replace the blown door speakers with a nice speaker with good bass
I have a 2023 jeep compass and want to boost sound just a little bit, because the stock stereo is quite different from anything aftermarket and appears rather involved to upgrade. Would it be worth it to just replace my speakers or should I install a LOC and small amp . I will eventually upgrade my entire system, but until something aftermarket that’s compatible is available I’ll settle for a modest improvement.
My experience with Factory setups is they have to downgrade the quality of the head unit so it wont hurt the crappy speakers that come with the system. First I swapped speakers. 2nd I swapped the head unit, and eventually upgraded the battery. Then I added a 200 wat 4 channel amp and connected with the my 6x9 and the 6.5 I put in the back doors. Finally, I will add an enclosure with 2x 10" which I will hook to a 1500 amp. I can tell you more in about a month when I complete this part Finally!
If the factory speakers are old and sound like braappp braaappp braaaap The foam around the cone disappeared. So if you buy new entry-level speakers, your car will sound much better. If you buy the top level they will only play with new wires, amp, new radio etc.
Has anyone done a comparison of a 200w RMS woofer vs a 2000w RMS woofer. Using the same 200w Amplifier? would power handling greatly affect sound quality?
@Noah Cardwell you absolutely will not hurt it at all underpowering a subwoofer. Thats such wrong information. What do you think happens when you turn volume down, your sub just explodes?
@@AudioEuphoria080 That's what you say when you get pulled over. "I have to play my stereo full volume all the time or my speakers will spontaneously combust!"
So basically the answer is you didn’t plan things out. Plan around what radio you’re using as well if you’re getting an amp. Many aftermarket radios are at least putting out double the power your stock probably is and is capable of creating better sound if you get the right speakers for the power level and car.
It's kind of funny the way you explain it. I probably could have done it in 1/2 of the time, but thats ok. I only worked for Rockford Fasgate for how many years😂
Fast forward to thousands of very sad Bronco owners that bought a car that's less than the sum of its parts with an abysmal audio system and they're all running to change their speakers and it makes virtually no difference whatsoever
@@calebniederhofer6529 I've been doing car audio for 35 years and the difference is negligible, but in a 40k to $60,000 vehicle. U should expect better.
O LORD, thou art my God; I will exalt thee, I will praise thy name; for thou hast done wonderful things; thy counsels of old are faithfulness and truth. (Isaiah 25:1 [KJV])
First of all if you want to put a Class A audio system in your car you got to spend some money Jerry. You'll never get decent car audio on the cheap ever the last audio system I swapped into my automobile cost me almost eighteen hundred bucks images so worth it four speakers on the dash boom boxes under the seats single 3-way speakers in each of the doors there four of them one in each corner of the roof and two in the back dash and it's all powered by what I have in the trunk period. And the only thing I ever listened to is 70s classic rock none of that bumi BS rapid mindless bubblegum pop
