@@willquigg8265 would the truck even run though? I have a TBI, backfiring through the TB under quick acceleration (light throttle taps) Timing initial is 11-12 (chain has some slack because it bounces from 11-12)
I have a '81 Dodge W250 Power wagon w/ a 360la. The timing marks are visible from the underside drivers side (below the power steering pump). Between putting the distributor toward the rear & the timing marks underneath it's like they were trying to make it as hard as possible to adjust.
same problem, have a 1982 W150 360. Took me 3/4 of an hour just to get the distributor lose (had to make custom wrench) and to see the timing marks i had to remove the rubber wheel well cover and even then you can't really see the marks.
@@318willrunhey I had a question for you! So I just put a 318 in my truck. I have it at tbc and my timing gears are matched and I am on the compression stroke.. my rotor is point to cylinder number 7 and if I take it out and 180 my distributor it would be pointed at 8. So I flipped it back to where it would be pointed at number 7. I then put my cap on and put my wire off of the number one cylinder to the cap. My number one wire is where the rotor is facing now. I then went clock wise and put my wires in in the correct firing order off of one. I did try and start it a little bit and it did begin to sound like it was wanting to start. However I didn’t completely try to start because have nothing hooked up to my headers. Did I do the right things in preparing my motor to start?
@@danielpeterson446 It could be right. I'm not there to verify exactly what you did, but if you have it on the compression stroke and it's pointed at # 1 you should be ok
@@318willrun hey just one more question so. I finished putting my exhaust on and I went to go start it and it just keeps lighting the carb on fire. Not even wanting to try and turn over. I set it at tdc, had my rotor facing driver side fender and vacuum advance facing passenger fender. Firing order is good. Kindve at a loss
Just wondering...is that a stock cam with the carb you mentioned in another comment? I have a stock 318 in a '74 Dart. Thinking of changing carb to a 4 barrel. Didn't know if the stock cam would be ok to keep. Thanks for any help!
4bbl's work great with a stock cam. In fact, a dual exhaust system with a 4bbl is a great addition to a 318. I put in a cheap Summit cam - I believe it's an old crane grind. It's in another video of mine.
man, that's so open because it could be so many things. Timing chain off a tooth? Valves not seating? Initial or Total timing way off? Fuel delivery? My suggestion is start with a compression test. If all are above 130 and within 10 psi of each other, then I would make sure initial and total are in a "reasonable" place to start your tuning, and if all that checks out I would verify valve timing.
I have a couple questions. I have an 86 5th avenue. Ive removed all emissions and lean burn junk. Have regular chrysler electronic ignition and a carter bbd on it now. Also have a holley 2280 that i put on experimenting. But the issue is why would this 318 be wearing out timing chains? I replaced the original with a cheap single. That last few hundred miles and was very loose. Then put a cloyes or melling cant remember double roller in there... Now 4 thousand miles and that chain is junk... Why is this happening. Have searched far and wide and cannot find anyone discuss this. Also the other day i was messing with timing and somehow my light shows i have 50 degrees of advance at around 2,500 rpm. This is way too much seems like. But to get the idle better i have to have initial around 20! I have a new balancer. I have not varified the marks yet. One last thing. With my light hooked up when i rev the engine the timing retards to like 15 atdc. Before advancing back to maybe 5btdc. Why the hell is this happening? I do not have vacuum advance hooked to anything while doing this. The car seems to run fine... Been driving it for months. Doesnt have the best acceleration but no bog or sputter. Idle is just tiny bit rough. Oil pressure cold is 66psi. Has 130psi compression with maybe 10psi variance. And has 135k believed miles on the engine.
Oh one last bit i didnt mention. When i did the first timing chain swap i also replaced cam and lifters. Not sure what i even used cause it was like 8 years ago. But i think it was a comp cam. Generic replacement. I had really bad lifter noise due to this engine being PACKED with sludge when i got it. There was crusty flaky crap the size of two soft balls pilled on top of the lifter spider.. Also my vacuum reads a little over 20 at idle. But the needle shakes super fast. Only in a tiny area. About as wide as the needle itself above and below. So fast and tight you almost cant see it move.
How loose is loose on the chain? They will loosen up some in a few thousand miles. As for the timing at 50* and no vacuum advance, it has to be getting the timing from the distributor
hi i have a 318 with a bbd 2 barril and it has a vent tube on top near accelerator pump ... may i ask what that tube is for ,,,,,should i plug it or just leave it open ....the intake and carb is not from my engine i bought it from a older vehicle and mine is a 1970 ....so my question is do i plug the vent tube or just leave it open
It could, but so could a really loose timing chain or a burned/split valve. Or bad plug wire or cracked distributor cap. Or, you could even get just a lean snap ...
@@318willrun that’s what I assumed as well so I’ve replaced the regulator, filter and pump (with Delphi rated at idle psi of 30) Also replaced the yellow top injectors. Only thing I haven’t done is disconnect the terminals and unplug the ecm and clean the connections there. Put the map sensor in the correct Venturi port, replaced the map, TPS, ISC, TB temp sensor, coolant temp sensor, distributor cap/rotor/ distributor shaft assembly - (set timing at 11-12 BTDC, however this is where I notice the moving back and forth on the initial timing setup). That’s why I think its not fuel pressure. it is good, I’ve checked for the idle up by pinching the return line, and it does so along with pressure building in the return fuel line. I’ve read that a little play in the chain itself could skip a tooth or teeth if romped on with a bad chain/new chain before break in miles, and that could cause the valves to be out of wake due to cam timing offset not just the crank/ignition
so what do I do , do I set 5 btdc or tdc on a 1978 318..u never say where to set timing ..I have 2 318 engines one is a 1978 318 and the other is 1970 318 ..where do I set the timing at
loaded question, and there is no one answer. If you have a stock engine and want to tune it to factory specs, then you'll get your answer under your hood looking at the sticker or a manual. For optimum performance, you'll have to give each engine what it likes. Initial timing on the 318 in the picture is 20*, and total is 40* because it's where it runs best (summit cam/4bbl). My 360 Duster is 14* initial, and 34* total. Again, each engine gets what it wants/likes. That's how I tune.
I always start with 8 btdc on any carbureted engine. What type of carb? Is it plumbed with full manifold vacum or ported? there is no magic answer. I prefer ported so there is only mechanical advance at idle. some people dont even run a vacum advance. So for optimal performance you need a timing light and tach to check advance at different rpm's. I usually use a vacum gauge to set base idle and will use a light to check how much advance I have at 1500, 2000, and 2500.
factory is engine/year specific. Saying what one engine's setting is would be useless to the next engine. My opinion, every engine should have the initial and total timing set to the engines liking
Hmmm, so I just rescued a 71 w200, 318 2bbl, it runs (now) but needs carb work, waiting on the kit. My timing mark does not show up (under light) to set any timing, (when I rotate engine to TDC 1, the marks are not even close. Is it possible the harmonic balancer ring can slip but not timing? cuz it still runs and fires right up? trying to work all the bugs out, this truck sat for years and years never running. I had a similar issue several years back with another74 W200 I rescued (360 with a def bad timing chain which I replaced) but also could never see the timing marks on HB, but ran good when I sold it too a kid down the street and it still runs strong he wheels it every weekend.
Could be the balancer slipped. could be somebody set the initial around 12* or more, which means the mark won't show up. My 318 Duster has initial set at 20*, so you won't see the mark, thus the reason for my "hillbilly timing tape"
camera speed is too slow. maybe in 20 years it will be quicker cameras. an older mechanic said to me what timing light to fill with gas you use and take a wrench, drive it around keep advancing until it pings then back off until it stops pinging
I've got a 318 with gasket matched Edelbrock intake to the heads with a 1406 carb w hooker headers I'm getting some popping at idle is that to much carb or could my timing be off either way ?? I put in larger metering rods and springs as well. Thanks for any advice 👍
Is it electrical or a gas pop? popping while it's idling or giving it gas off idle? If the latter, then it sounds lean. popping while idling could be vacuum leak, or timing. Could be spark as well, hard to say without being there. Best of luck!
Thanks for the info. I just bought the car a month ago. It has an edlebrock performer and a Carter carb on it. Not sure what size 4 barrel. I am kinda worried about the tranny kickdown linkage. It doesn't look like it's hooked up and I heard on Mopars that it can do transmission damage if it isn't installed correctly. The flex plate has a chunk out of it so I am pulling out the tranny soon to fix that. Also the engine has great oil pressure 55 psi for about 30 seconds. Then it drops down to less than 10. Clogged oil screen? Any thoughts about what to check for? Like your videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. That's Eric
@@318willrun wow Me on my 318 if i go to 10 it pings So i push it back to 8 and it runs fine But thats with vac advance plugged in I never checked my timing at idle with vac unplugged
