I was in Construction for 35 years now retired Loved the outside initial tour Of the Costruction details its always nice to see DIYers doing things correctly even though i understand Tyler does have a builder on site its obvious he is very involved with understanding whats going on most homeowners dont have a clue on all the procedures I’m quite impressed on the overall build and the neatness of everything getting ready for a close in its great to see all the appropriate blocking as my official Trade was a Architectual Woodworking Installer for over 20 years and many builders either overlook or dont care about all those needs especially in. Stair railings and handi cap grab rails etc . When my sister and BrotherinLaw built their last home I reviewed prints and told them where to add all that i even offered to Install it for them if they bought the materials nobody then. Was physically handicapped then but with age it was needed and they always thank me for my help its basically life in general and now our Mom lives there and needs some of those grab rails for safety as i told them in the beginning for a few sheets of plywood and some extra 2x4 s its cheap insurance in the long run Similar things i see in Tylers house you dont get in trouble for over Engineering things its only when they aren’t Engineered enough and unfortunately even the Smartest Engineers and Architects dont think of everything because usually they dont build the Structures themselves A group of guys and women i worked with we all used to Conclude that a architect should be required to intern or work on a crew for a certain time frame as part of their schooling
This should be called “Check out the house Ty is building”. Only 3 min of the vault room? That’s kinda why I clicked on the vid. Please show when finished if you can.
I once examined a vault/safe room that bad guys spent over two and a quarter hours trying to enter when the people went out for two+ hours. As I recall, what saved the room was thus: from the outside..1/2" sheetrock, 3/4" plywood, old scrap chain link fence material inserted with 5/8"x2" space board at top and bottom, 3/4" plywood, 1/2" sheet rock. The 4' sections of plywood had about 80 2" screws each through plywood, chain link into plywood. There was some kind of liquid screw material in the chain link space. L sMetal straps screwed into the wall sections, wall top and bottom and bolted to the deck and ceiling. Old bank vault door in professional metal frame. The crooks obviously knew what they were doing and came with demo tools to do the job. They were good at killing the two alarm systems, thus giving them time to work on entry. They got down to the chain link in two places and drilled two 2" holes through the walls but even with getting a half" cable with 3"x1/2" bar at the end (couldn't figure how they fished it on the end) and they used something to attempt to winch the gvault wall because they tore up the top of the stairs top using it as the dead end. They even tried a chainsaw. No joy. The suspects had a vehicle parked in the woods back of the house and escaped when the owners returned. Wish I could say we caught them. The owner had two guys come out and it took a couple hours to repair the damage...good as new. I think it was the metal chain link holding it all together with the screws and liquid nails. We recovered most of the tools including a torch. Thanks for the memories.
You can buy steel wire panels which will give a lot of protection. Not to mention with a build like this, they could even come in at a later date and add some decent steel plate to the inside and thus space out their costs.
Either you have absolutely nothing better to watch, or you're secretly hot for these dudes but there's one thing that's certain which is that you have horrible taste in video content. RU-vid should charge him to stream this video. It would've been hilarious to have an ad pop up every 2 minutes. You should think about it for your next video. Title it ultimate test of subscriber loyalty. Lmao. I can't with you rn.
I really appreciate the level of detail in this build. As a home inspector, many defects come from the original builders and, of course, lack of maintenance, etc.
@Interna Kim Lt. James Gordon: "Because he's the hero Gotham deserves, but not the one it needs right now. So we'll hunt him. Because he can take it. Because he's not our hero. He's a silent guardian. A watchful protector. A Dark Knight."
No doubt that flame paint works well. However, the flame was held less than half the time on that board than the naked one. Would love to see an apples to apples comparison done
that flame test was 1,800 % invalid,I just made that number up. but seriously though on the untreated board he held a torch for about 4 seconds but on the untreated board he held the torch for about 4 seconds
And the flame was held 4x farther away from the treated board than it was from the un-treated board. The bright blue flame cone was almost right up against the un-treated board, and on the treated board the bright blue part of the flame cone was held much farther back. Easy to see on a rewatch of the video.
I had all the same thoughts. Though, the way fire suppressing materials work is to make flames go out faster. If they had two torches running the same time side-by-side (on vertical boards), you should see both boards catching fire. The difference is that one would go out and the other would continue to burn. At the very least, one would burn less and at a lower temperature. It's not fireproof. It's just meant to reduce damage...or buy you time.
FLAME TEST, the flame was on the untreated piece almost twice as long as the treated. Would have liked to see the flame on the treated a little longer.
If you are going to go with wood framing, then a good idea is to horizontal drill the studs and insert some #3 or #4 rebar every 8 inches or so. sandwiching hog panels into the wall can also help.
This book was a great resource for ideas, practical advice ru-vid.comUgkx-b91_bYU48sOwHX-XC49tRRXRxcnOmZm and pro tips I purchased the plans for the 10'x16' colonial and used them for the basics and made my own modifications. I built my shed for storage and lawn equipment, but decided to sheath and side it in case I ever wanted to add insulation and turn it into a shop or bunkhouse. I poured over this book all winter while I planned and found it to be the all-around best shed book out there.
Matt, I dont know if you know this trick, but if you put 4-6 inches of pea gravel in the walls, it makes the walls pretty bulletproof as well as pretty soundproof. Very heavy though.
There's a lot of hating going on in the comments. Just want to say that I appreciate you sharing your knowledge for FREE on the internet even though half of these people don't deserve the free lesson. Building community is full of 'experts' apparently who know everything.
We did a similar vault, except we used 3/4" plywood with a layer of Hardie board between the sheathing and the studs. In the event of a saw attack the Hardie board should dull a wood cutting blade pretty quick. Closed cell foam in the wall. We use two sheaths of 1/2" plywood with Hardie board in the middle. 6 deadbolts and a piano hinge, swing out. Covered that with a standard door with a key lock, to reduce visibility.
FishFind3000 it was shorter, but a good intumescent coating applied at the proper thickness can act as a 15 minute thermal barrier. Just as good as 5/8 rock. I personally would have loved to see how long it stood up to that map gas a well.
@@FishFind3000 I have used intumescent paint on school jobs before, and painted some scraps with it and played with it at home, and if it's good paint, it does make a noticeable difference, though I agree that he made it look like a bad test here
It was definitely 25 percent less time on the intumescent sample. I've used this one theme park and theatre installs for many years. Not convinced it's worth the investment versus sheet rock in the grand scheme of things.
Very impressive. His attention to detail is spot on. Now, we do things a tad different in the Midwest. (I and a couple of other builders do anyway) Because it's pretty standard to have a basement here. But I know a good build when I see one. And that home is beautiful already! Very nice insulation detail where the AC unit will be. And man that's Funny, I use the same horse shoe shims from barwalt! Or contractors direct. Works great for windows and tile. Lol! Crazy! And I thought I was the only one who regularly uses those for purposes other than tile spacing. I love the premium Doug fir he's got there. And copper flashing! And though I prefer to liquid flash everything I can, nice job with the Zip flex from what I can tell. And thank you for liquid flashing the concrete to your zip sheathing! I do like the caulk tube for that detail. Any gaps at all can be addressed easily and much less mess than the sausage gun. It sould really be a standard to liquid flash that transition. IMHO. The "safe room" is a neat concept. We build a ton of them. Usually a very, very heavy "steel reinforced" (not your average rebar) concrete though for us. 8 bag mix with fiberglass as well. I really enjoy making those an extremely concealed part of the home. Anyway, great job on the build so far Ty! And thanks for taking us along for the show Matt! 👍
‼️‼️‼️. FOR YOUR “SECURE ROOMS” -->>. Add tons of scrap rebar inside the framed walls... run between holes slightly larger then the outside diameter of rebar allowing the rebar to spin if anyone attempts to cut with a saw . Horizontal runs and vertical runs placed in random locations with an emphasis toward areas do you think cutting will take place to permit entry. Also provide for shock and vibration detectors inside of the room wall..... Definitely run empty conduit and cable to the room from the main telecom or electrical utility area in the home. Provide for panic button, back up phone line, power for a spare cell phone, CCTV camera in the room as well as a monitor in the room to watch outside security cameras. Also, Fort Knox and liberty and I am sick and a few other manufacturers offer vault doors that look similar to the doors they use on gun safes they can be framed in and used as the primary room door and they’re not too expensive. Great videos. Thank you
RBAD RBAD you can also hang sheet metal over the framing, for sound proofing and to destroy the blade. Best to lock the guns up even inside the room. I do like the idea of a #5 rebar spinner.
WOW this is one hell of a builder. Look at all the attention paid to details. Ty must be charging hefty for his services. I've never seen a builder that does this kind of quality work.
Yes. Matt is going to take a look at the Demo Ranch mansion. Matt Risinger posted it on his twitter twitter.com/MattRisinger/status/1158737360269561857
Cool stuff thanks for sharing! Nice to see spray foam insulation and some well designed and reinforced framing! The slackers that remodeled our house saw fit to attach stair hand rails into 1/2” drywall with a total of 6 plain wood screws (not even anchored)... guess how well that’s lasted!
Typical shoddy construction in all homes! I did one of my first commercial build jobs as a punch out carpenter for the company that built Motel 6 in the late 70's in Houston. I asked about he 2 x 12's in the bathrooms, and they said for every toilet paper or towel bar holder. Now they need to add for grab rails. When I spec them in my home now, I get arguments! Stupid idiots cannot be educated in S. Texas. Kudos to Voltaire for finding teachable guys
Vault room at 12:30. Not much of anything though. Definitely not more than a slightly overbuilt closet with a steel door. Could be penetrated in under a minute.
2-1” thick, rated Sheetrock on the walls is what are found in elevator shafts for fire protection. If the owner wants to protect his/her guns that is what needs to go on the walls. The rock is finished with fire rated Sheetrock tape and the mud is also fire rated. Than intumescent putty pads are installed around metal outlet boxes and lights. The supply and return air need to be fire rated and they should close automatically in a fire. Some folks also install sprinkler systems. Finally, the best place to put a fire safe is either in the basement or someplace on the first floor. In a fire, the second floor always burns the hottest.
That flame retardant paint doesn't look at all like it's "keeping that heat from coming". The wood is clearly glowing under the flame (and under the coating). It looks more like paint that starves the wood of oxygen. Might seem like a minor detail, but if someone builds a house thinking this paint will keep a room cool in the face of a huge fire and then dies of heat and fume exposure, well that would kinda suck for them.
Great video Matt! I am on my first semester on for construction management and your videos and examples are so easy to understand and memories. Thank you so much for your hard work!
Fist off I'm just a wannabe construction guy but, IDK about the fire-proof coating 5seconds on untreated 3seconds on treated. That liquid-flash ROCKS!!
Ok, neat build BUT, a couple of things I see. 1) Steel will rot eventually. How long depends a bit on the environment and the material thickness. Stainless usually works better as long as it isn’t going to be submerged. 2) The gun room is slick but I’d be inclined to put some sort of reinforcement in the wall. Steel sheet or something along those lines. With a large budget, sheets of a nickel cobalt alloy as its harder for someone to cut through with average saw blades.
Well then they shouldn't have approved the video. (Which they did.) Besides, it's not exactly a SECRET. I mean, they've gone through no real length to obscure the presence of the space in the layout of the house. It's more a modest security setup for something you want to be hard for others to get to. It's not a panic room for a high-profile target or someone storing stacks of cash....
@@eugeniustheodidactus8890 I'm not going to speculate about where they are during the build; I couldn't possibly know. But Matt made a point of stating IN THE VIDEO that the homeowner gave permission for the video, so to your original comment I just don't see why they should be mad. I mean, I wouldn't have done it, but if they give permission then they shouldn't be mad.
"Steel" and "won't rot" do not belong together. I've seen steel that was rotted through and through. Even the thickest steel will last until it turns into FeO. Want a post that won't rot❓ Pony up some serious cash and use stainless steel.
Jason C. Stainless as well as aluminum self creates a protective layer. It will rust but not only the top layer and the rust wil stop. Not the same as steel. The steel rust just wil go on rusting.
We do a lot with an epoxy that has a long history of success in water towers, collection tanks, etc. A 2-part epoxy is as good as it gets for a moisture barrier. I think it would more than do the job for a number of years.
We use white intumescent paint here in NJ. Required on various exterior eve's and overhangs when near adjacent buildings. We're built so close together fire spreads quickly.
Adrian OCNJ yeah I rented a house in OCNJ once. Felt like you could lean out the window and reach into your neighbors house. Makes it easy to borrow some ketchup or an egg. Lol!
Most buildings I work in that were previously government high-security buildings (Like Grumman in Bethpage NY where the build the lunar landers) have expanded metal behind the double 5/8" drywall so someone couldn't break into a wall with an Axe. I wonder if this would have been a more cost-effective option than all the wood. It's fun watching the cordless chainsaws.
Thief kicks door and door doesn't move. Thief then kicks wall and wall doesn't move. Thief tries a crowbar that he brought with him and wall still doesn't move, but now his hands hurt. Thief leaves because he's making a crap ton of noise and wasting a whole lot of time. Some of these comments are from people who watch way too many movies, with fears of people breaking into the house carrying a magnetic base drill press, plasma cutter, and a carbide-tipped chainsaw they're going to use to go through the 12 foot ceiling from below. Be way more likely to just wait in the kitchen and take mom upstairs to unlock the door at gunpoint (or bat-point, or whatever) when the family comes home from the grocery store.
In the event of a house fire, this gun room and all of its contents will end up on the bottom floor, as the wood framing below collapses. The gun vault in slab on grade construction should be on the bottom floor and be able to remain intact and not move at all as the house collapses on top of it.
Fire rating is well over an hour for this type wall. 2 layers 5/8 type x drywall and fiberglass insulation give you a 1 hour assembly. Adding rockwool really doesnt add extra, but the 1.125" sheeting adds about another 25 min burn through. The floor below will burn out before the wall. I would add some thicker chicken wire or some type of multi strand netting to stop a saw through (to stay on the cheap). As for phone and escape, this is a vault room, not a safe room.
I love your channel! So many new ideas and products. On the vault, it may be a good idea to dowel the walls with some rebar. The only weakness that I could see was fire, which was addressed and someone plunge cutting the wall with a chainsaw, making another door.
For fire rating purposes, the client would have been much better served with 2 layers of 5/8" type x drywall. You can put 1" Armorcore panels behind the drywall and get WAY more strength than any plywood. This is an on the cheap solution - that's not cheap or a solution. That rock wool everywhere is very expensive. It probably would have been a wash with Armorcore and drywall and then it would have also been able to take 5 rounds of 5.56 without penetration. That door probably can't even do that.
Not that I doubt the fire resistance on the paint but he did hold the flame on the untreated wood longer than on the treated wood. About 5 seconds on the untreated and 3 and 2 1/2 seconds on the treated wood. Just saying.
I would want my "Safe Room/Gun Room/Storm Room" to be on the Ground Floor... so that even if the house is burning down, or a storm is tearing it apart, the room would not collapse... with me and Family inside. And after the danger has passed, we would have a safe exit pathway. Of course, THIS room may BE at ground level -- since location was not revealed. But I am just expressing a consideration I would have. Now... if you wanted a REALLY Safe room, you might just put in a room built with "Ram Earth" in an exterior corner of the house, and just cover the outside walls with the same siding as the rest of the house ... (smile)
Ground floor and not made of wood. People really underestimate how powerful a L-Ion chainsaw is. Ideal "Easy" safe room would be ground floor or basement. Walls made of rebar reinforced ICF maybe 6kpsi instead of basic 3k. Then get an acual security door rated for burglaries and fires. Ceiling should also be rebared concrete but i think steel plate is easier for a roof than figuring out how to build a mould for the concrete. Back the plate with aluminum/copper for abrasive resistance and heat resistance if you have the money to spare. The idea of safe rooms should be safe. Not a last resort "hide here and hope the killer doesnt find me and rape/kill me" Trapped rats are not safe rats. Shelter from storms would also be in mind. But if its in the basement, unless its a biblical tier natural disaster thats a moot point and you'd be better off building a seperate bunker anyway.
@@pulaski1 I agree, I dont understand why people put in pocket doors. The amount of houses if been in when a pocket door is the bathrooms door is just weird
My idea is multiple medium size gun safes inside a Shipping Container inside a barn or garage equipped with security cameras. The longer it takes them to get to the valuables the more likely they'll be busted or run away empty handed. Optionally you can put a display case with non-functioning cheap firearms out in the open for them to take making them think they got something. Works with jewelry too.
Exactly, ... except all of those layers are just misdirection, hiding what we -- in a double blind experiment only -- think is the real treasure trove. The key is to realize that the treasure was the life you were living before you became obsessed with a safe room.
Rather than sheatrock, concrete board inside that room with all the joints done with morter would really be fire resistant and not release compounds into the air like drywall that rust guns in enclosed spaces. You can always finish that with a knockdown textured paint product that has the orangepeal aggregate mixed in as well to make it have better look. Best practice would be to build it like a shower stall roughin essentially ready for tile, with your in wall fire rated insulation and the 1 1/8” panel on the back of the wall covered with 5/8” rock.
Question "Matt, what is up with audio?" Answer: "I messed up! Will work on doing it right next time!" Matt, you are a great builder and a man of character! Thank you for your example.
I didn't see any way of ventilating the room. Are they going to have an O2 supply inside? I'd also be careful about using sheet steel construction with wood. I can be inside that room in 30-60 seconds with the proper commercially available breaching equipment. Using plate steel with an actual plate steel door with steel studs in concrete would be better but being its on the 2nd floor is impractical.
Career finish and framing carpenter here... I’ve done a lot of NDA type work over my career... one of the coolest was an over the top safe room and basically entire homes exterior was sheathed with Kevlar panels... yes bullet proof glass for windows... the whole kit... safe room was on second level of home, entire floor, ceiling and walls were sheathed with multiple layers of the Kevlar.... access to safe room was a hidden hallway that had hidden access doors from the master bath and a hidden built in book case door in the main corridor of that part of the house (for the kids or guests). Once they were threw those hidden doors they could meet up in that bullet proof hallway to make their way to the safe room. If you think this all sounds ridiculous then your right... this clients “security” budget was probably more than the entire house in this video.
I found this house while looking for my next build a few years ago. HC sure off 1826. That’s all I’ll say. Very nice home. Somewhat secluded. It’s nice to see there are good builders out there. The production builders give the trade a bad name.
Hey Matt you need to get in touch with Matt over at Demolition Ranch. He's got a project that you might be interested in. They have a place they started on in the Texas hill country.
The door looks good, but I don't reckon that safe room would meet UK specs. Here police like to see reinforced concrete walls, floor & ceiling in walk-in gun rooms (and steel door with multiple locking points). ...each installation like this has to be police approved here if you want to store guns 'loose' in it without additionally having them in a type approved cabinet.
James Bradwell in the states a lot of people use glass window wood cabinets, or store on racks in rooms. Not every one uses a safe. Just the way some people are
How do you spell clickbait? “Touring a residential job site, advertising for a builder coupled with a cheap sound system” would be a much more accurate title.
@@rafatrill one solution that'll work for one home won't work for the next every situation is different and you need to have some one that deals with locks and security every day to tell you what to do. That's what Matt would do he calls an expert. Securing a building is a whole other business then building one and Matt is only involved in the ladder
@@Manatee360Phototography Well, if you look at what passes for most gun "safes", this isn't that bad. An actual burglar rated system probably couldn't be put on a second floor unless you almost built concrete columns up to it.
@@buildshow maybe, maybe not depends on the situation and the emotional state of the people because when I've lost my temper in the past I've punch straight through stuff that in normal circumstances my hands would bounce off of
I wonder if that's going to be a frat house with all that soundproofing. I also wonder if Ty's in witness protection the way he's hiding from the camera.🤔😂
I'm visualizing the owner, coming across this video, he can recognize his yard, others will be able to also, and here you are fixing to show off his, (not so), secret room.
he literally said he got the homeowners permission to shoot the video... and good luck finding one house out of hundreds of thousands, if not millions... lol
How do you still only have 500k members?... As a 35+yr Austin native and being a native Texan, I stay impressed with every video you post. thanks Matt. !
Question, since the barndominium is sort of a new craze, any coverage on these home types, building with metal framing and exterior sheeting can be so much different than traditional stick built homes Or perhaps cover pole barn homes
Matt, Hello, nice video, we looked at some model homes in CAPE CORAL FL, I SK if they would ma a safe room in my home if We bought one, she thought I ment a PANIC ROOM, I said NO, a HURRICANE ROOM, WITH COTS, ETC, BUT DOOR MUST OPEN IN, , but if in a flood zone it would be useless, she was an English woman & NEVER EVER HEARD OF SUCH A THING, told her to check . ANYHOW it was too far from family in FL., we still have not moved to Fl as yet. Cheers from NJ
It is only designed to prevent flame spread, does not make the item painted fireproof by any means, but adds additional time vs bare wood. I use it as backer board paint for electrical installs- yet haven't had an aftermath of a catastrophic failure to provide information one way or the other.
Yeah, I'm not sure what he was thinking on that. The smoke levels also looked very similar. I'm guessing that torch was not the best way to test that paint.
It works. It does not ignite after the torch is removed. Hard to see it when the paint color is white. FWIW: when it gets hot, the paint blisters providing a gap between the wood and flame. issue with it, is very expensive (about $100 USD for a gallon) and goes on thick so a gallon does not go very far.
