"Forget everything you just saw because this image was made by idiots..." That's the best advice yet! Thanks for making this a whole lot easier to understand.
This is an old video to be commenting on but when cutting short threads up to a shoulder you can turn the tool upside down and start the lathe backwards (If it goes backwards) to cut away from the shoulder into safe fresh air.
I confirmed on my MX600A; Medium= 24t to 24t for 1:1. High= 32t to 16t for 2x speed. Low= 16t to 32t for 1/2 speed. The one-piece tipple input gear appears to be a crappily made sintered metal affair - nearly impossible to cut a replacement. The 16t and 24t output gear teeth are an integral part of the output shaft. So yeah, don't break em.
Got the same lathe! Love your videos, they have been a great help! I did the gear box mod first with the spacer and glad you posted that one. Have you figured the gearing for a .80mm thread? It is not on the chart and I can't find the info anywhere. That is a common thread for 5mm and I really need it.
Good demonstration! I have a very similar chinese lathe with a problem in the levers that drive the leadscrew (there's a fwd/neutral/reverse, and a 3 speed selector). They wont turn. I jiggle them and they may move a little, sometimes they engage the leadscrew and sometimes not. Is there a quick fix for that or is it necessary to take the headstock apart? I'd appreciate any help.
Do you have more instructions on this? I just bought my lathe and the manual does not provide the information on adjusting the gears for cutting threads. Thx.
On other machines, with a similar looking gearbox, M = 1:1, H = 1:2, L = 1:0.5, so its match only in some cases coarse, normal and fine, like 3/8"-32 UNEF and 3/8"-16 UNC, but the middle is 3/8"-24 UNF. This machine has a very poor set of gears, because the set for 1mm gives you also 0.5mm and 2mm just by switching to L or H
I agree. And the chart is also bad. I tried doing 1.25 pitch the other day and the gear rack was hitting the spindle magnet thats used to count RPM's. This lathe is a piece of junk if you ask me and gearing is just the tip of the iceberg of problems i have i didnt mention.
It's small so it's not very rigid but but more rigid then smaller once. Tolerances are the same except for the chuck. It 0 at the spindle and 002 ran out at the chuck which is very good
@@tonycstech Thanks for getting back to me, that sounds very good (at least compared to my very worn pre-war lathe!). I just saw the video on the quality issues you had to overcome, I'll avoid eBay for this and buy from one of the companies in the UK that sell them only after quality checks.
Dear Tony, how are you? What a very interesting video! Good 4 indipendent 4 jaws chuck, may you submit me link? Furthermore may you kindly enable the subtitles, even in english? It is unclear the H gear what meaning for. I purchased the 27 gear for this lathe, you too?
H=spacer or a small gear that won't contact with other gears. I don't have 27T gear. Chuck is 125mm 4 jaw independent. Watch out for 3 hole pattern so you can mount it to the spindle. Otherwise you will have to drill holes to match the spindle.
@@tonycstech @Tony Nameless the "27 pcs gears" is an item sold on Amz/ebay, that I purchased, that contains 27 gears and a couple od drive belts. While the 72t gear is the premounted big gear at bottom? I haven't dismantled it yet. Regarding chuck I wish to purchase 160 mm 4 jaws indipendent, but I need a back plate. Anyway, may you kindly submit me link of your chuck?
I agree have used bar and chain oil on lathe gears for years it is heavier and tends not to fly off the chain or in this case the gears. Bar & chain oil also makes a pretty good lathe bed and cross slide lubricant.
I did it b hand because length of the thread is short, like 10mm at most. It would be too easy to overshoot it due to lathe travel of speed when half nut is engaged. Solution is to slow down the spindle as much as possible, maybe by jumping the belt that drives the pulley to a larger pulley. It will slow entire process down so you can react in time. IN my case cutting would be too fast and i would not react in time to disengage.
@@tonycstech Check this out, I think this is the solution to that issue: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-q7scadYptTI.html I'm still a noob beginner, so might be wrong, but let me know if that helps you.
@@maxwellconniff1189 have seen this my self. Totally forgot all about it. This trick is definitely on my "give it a try" list. Thanks for reminding me.
I am one of those who measures by the size of my foot so pardon my French, curious if you are able to get less than or equal to .001” tolerances out of this lathe?
Short answer: no Long answer: there is no ranout on the spindle or the chuck, at least based on what I see in my case. There is ranout on the spindle bearings. By the time they turn the spindle and then spindle turns the chuck, you get around 0.002" on the chuck. The further away you go from the chuck toward tail stock, the more ranout you get. So the solution is: replace bearings with correct once or live center every part you make so that at least you keep it at 0.002" entire length of the part. I hope that makes sense. If you know what types of bearings i need, let me know.
I think yes. Its 1200 on VEVOR right now. The only problem is, you never know what you going to get. It may not match to whats on the photo and may not include everything thats on the photo. VEVOR will likely offer you partial refund because they wont be able to give you individual parts. I got 300 and then some more later refunded. So this lathe cost me 800 bucks which is allot better. Pay with paypal, so you can easily open the claim. Otherwise they can just ignore you. Good luck.
@@tonycstech thanks, Tony! Should I buy it from Aliexpress, since I am located in Europe, and the shipping is free? Or from Vevor's website? The actual price is about 950 euro right now.
@@vladsbikeshed I would avoid buying directly from VEVOR. You need a middle man to be able to create a "not as described" case in the event or receiving wrong model or not receiving everything.
Hey Tony,,, do you mind try a 2.0 mm threat setup, i cant get room on the 84T gear, it hits the downunder SPACE gear, i put the smallest gear there as a spacer, but it still hits.
Why not machine a toothless spacer sleeve to fit in place of the smallest gear that you using for a space, since you have a lathe to make a simple sleeve.
You mean gears do not engage with the spindle ? I am not very clear on what you saying. I will try 10tpi hopefully tonight and see what if there is a problem. Hang on.
@@valtermarques9934 You are correct. Mine does same thing. I am very angry right now 😠 Someone had mentioned different chart. I think you and i need to contact VEVOR for a different threading chart. Ok i went to www.cgtk.co.uk/metalwork/calculators/changegears/minilathe I entered what ever gears i have available and tried to generate 10TPI thread. Generated result goes from top to bottom. Top is the shortest distance from spindle to gearbox and bottom is longest. I ended up using 3rd line from the bottom, it seemed to be good distance. Gears i needed were 80,52,66,60 Spindle drives 80. 80 drives 52. 52 and 66 on the same shaft. 66 drives 52. 52 drives gearbox. I hope that makes sense. That chart is little confusing at first. I tried to make a test cut really quick with that setup. It seemed to work ok. I dont have any bolts 10tpi to test it so........ Good luck.
@@pauljcampbell2997 lol no wonder. i dont know any help from vevor that was workable. all i was getting from them is excuses and more excuses followed by partial refund. Should have returned the lathe and gathered more money to buy something better.
Ouch …..did you just SLAM the Imperial measurements system???…..the system that was created by people who could calculate the proliferation of numbers that AREN’T a multiple of 10. I’m sorry….i just couldn’t let that slide, Mate. 🤣🤣🤣🤣 Also…..Thank you for this video 😳
