Truck driver by trade so I naturally use mine all the time but that helps explain a lot. Thank you. Side note: I just updated to a 2017 Ram and right away was throwing an actuator code. Long story short dealer wanted $2200-$3900 to repair. I sprayed about a Tablespoon of WD-40 in behind the air cleaner and took it for a drive and it seems to have cured my issue.
I'm glad that helped, But I really don't recommend spraying anything that can combust into the intake. Diesels Have double the compression ratio of a gasser. And so you should never have any fuel mixed in with the air or it will try to ignite half way up the compression stroke. This can cause it to try and push the piston back down or break rings, or bend stuff. Just taking it out and driving it up to operating temp and working the crap out of the vane can usually free it up. If that doesn't work, drain the coolant, remove the actuator and try to work the vane back and forth until you can move it by hand. If that doesn't work, the turbo needs to be replaced. Glad I could help.
Yes, it is pretty clear. I hope this has helped people understand. I can't tell you how many folks think they only need to use it if they are towing. ") Glad I can help. ")
I have a 2018 3500 and I always turn on my exhaust brake every time I hop in my truck Empty = exhaust brake on Loaded and or pulling my trailer = tow/haul mode on and exhaust brake on I love it! From 60+ mph it will slow me down to 15mph without my foot touching the brake pedal 😃
I do this every time I start my 2015 RAM 2500 Cummins. I wish there was an easy way to set it to default on without adding some other gadget to the truck. But I agree, always drive with the exhaust brake on - unless you're driving in icy or snow conditions. The manual warns that can cause the truck to slide and lose control.
For anyone else who has had this issue I believe I have found a potential solution, the Exhaust Pressure Sensor. Mine symptoms was the exhaust break would intermittently work, for instance if it worked in the morning commute it would not work on the way home 8 hours later, there was no signs of sticking or hard movements from the turbo. I adjusted my exhaust pressure sensor housing clip and it has been working ever since.
Could this be the issue with my 2015 Cummins. When EB is on especially first start up when cold. It doesn’t do the normal jet engine whistle anymore, it’ll spool up, rpm’s go up and it starts surging up and down, sometimes on the road when I come to a stop.
Casey Riggs You said your actuator was moving 75%. How did you know this. Did you look on the scanner? If you replaced the turbo over the weekend, I would make sure the Exhaust back pressure sensor is working ok before you start doing any Dpf treatment.. And if you can drive it and you don't have a dead pedal, then it's prob not the DPF. A clogged dpf will give you a dead pedal. If it's just that the Exh brake is not working, check your sensor.
2012 6.7 cummins full tune and deleted. 170k always kept maintain.Use exhaust brake frequently started one cold michigan morning and eb is extra high pitched and on stock tune it dumps coal and will not go above 10mph. Parked it for rest of the winter and ordered a fleece cheetah drop in replacement will the new acuator thats plug n go. About to do the install is there anything else that could be wrong with the truck? Anything to look for? Thanks for the advice
Well what I usually recommend is to remove the actuator first and see if you can move the vane by hand. It only takes a few minutes, remove wheel well, drain coolant, remove the 4 bolts that hold the actuator on and once it's off you will be looking at the arm that moves the vane. If you can not move it by hand then it's stuck. And from what your saying it sounds like that is what the problem is. If you can't move it by hand then I would take a "small" ball peen hammer and just tap it forward till it moves. It only moves from about the 7:00 position to the 5:00 oclock position. Don't beat on it to try to get it to go further. If you can free it up so it moves by hand then I would just buy the city diesel actuator, especially if you don't have codes. Move it back and forth a bunch till you know it's nice a free. Then install the new actuator. The problem is they get sooted up and stick when they are not used all the time. Get the truck up to full operating temp and when you come to a stop put it in tow haul and decel hard to work the vane so it stays as clean as possible. If you still have issues then do a full turbo but I like to start with the least expensive item first. And the more you learn about how it works the better it will be for the new turbo as well. Hope this helps. As far as anything else being wrong, It really sounds like it's the vane that is stuck shut. If the exhaust brake comes on,,,,,,and it will on the cold mornings to try and warm the truck up faster, then sticks closed, you will basically have a dead pedal. Removing and replacing the factory can be a pain of a job. Especially if you live in the snow country and the turbo is rusted. Those bolts are a nightmare to get to and get enough leverage to break them loose, so this is another reason to try removing the actuator first. I believe that once you install a turbo you will be owing it no matter what. Also if you do end up replacing your whole turbo, remove the wheel well and go in through there or you will need to remove the manifold as well. We pretty much do all the turbo replacements without removing the manifold but it can be a pain to get them out. You will need to remove the actuator from the turbo in order to get it out and back in this way so just mark the position of the vane with a sharpy cause you will probably move it during installation. And then make sure to use the brake every time you drive it. And work it hard to keep it clean. ")
Have you looked around the turbo actuator for any leaks. My thought would be to buy a STANT pressure checker and the correct adapter for the coolant cap that you have. Pump it up to 16 psi and then start looking for leaks on top of the exhaust manifold. Providing your egr cooler is still functioning,,,,, I would be concerned that when you use the exhaust brake it pressurizes the egr cooler,,, that would be if the cooler has sprung a leak into the exhaust side and may be leaking into the exhaust manifold. But check everything. with the Stant pressure checker you can put pressure to the system while cold and take a bright light to see if you can find a leak. Also check to see if the coolant in low.
@@diesellady1 Thanks for the tips! I have pressurized a couple times, found a leaking bottle. Replaced the evap bottle and all hoses, leak check again and held pressure (engine off) for over 8 hours. I pulled the air transfer tube from the cooler to the EGR and it's completely dry, as is the EGR so no coolant getting in. No white smoke, overheating etc. Just don't want to throw a new cooler or turbo on and guess wrong. I ordered an FSM that should be here today and will start digging.
@@IH8CA Are you sure it's coming from the engine, or maybe the heater core??? Just taking a stab in the dark. I was thinking head gasket but if your not over heating then I doubt it. I lifted my head and every time I got into it I would see coolant temp go up with my boost pressure. LOL But if it is holding all night I can't think of any other way you could be loosing coolant. "( Hope I am wrong.
@@diesellady1 I'm 99% sure it's coming form the engine. It held pressure, carpet is dry, and I really only smell it out side the truck on the passenger side. My FSM came today and i'm going to start doing a little more troubleshooting this weekend. I'm thinking i'm looking at an EGR cooler that just started leaking, and isn't bad enough yet to cause all the normal symptoms. I need to get my backup truck back on the road so I can put this one down for a while. 3 Dodges at the house and they're all in some form of disrepair :-)
@@IH8CA well let us know what you find. P.s. the actuator has coolant running through it. Hope that’s not the issue! But check the coolant lines running to the turbo as well! “)
Ah if you're on incredibly slick ground, possibly but you should always use Jake's whenever possible and I'd say it goes double for wet roads because engine braking is a dynamic braking force rather than a static braking force like your rotors and pads
Hello, question for you, I’ve got a 2011 6.7 with 245,000 on it. it’s straight piped, and was wondering if using the engine brake all the time is bad for the auto transmission, or is it one of those things that literally has no downside? thank you
Hi Cody. Using the exhaust brake really has no effect on the trans that normal usage would cause. Especially while in tow haul. Tow Haul mode tells the trans to hold a gear a little longer so it won't lug the engine on upshift, and keeps the torque converter locked on Decel to help keep you under control. Diesels do not have much exhaust back pressure like a gasser does, so the exhaust brake creates more back pressure to help slow the engine down. Without it, your engine basically Coasts when it's not making power. You can see this on Big Rigs. They don't use Exhaust brakes, they use Engine brakes. The basic difference is an engine brake holds the exhaust valve closed for a period of time and then finally opens it to allow the exhaust to escape. While the valve is closed the piston RE compresses the exhaust which causes a lot of resistance. This slows the engines down substantially which allows you to decelerate. Exhaust brakes force the pistons to push the exhaust out against the pressure that builds up by restricting the exhaust outlet. Big rigs have been doing this for as long as we can remember and it doesn't cause transmission damage. At least not anything more than normal wear. Also if you are not in tow haul, the torque converter unlocks at 1100 rpm, so after that, it will turn off the exhaust brake automatically so it does not create heat in the trans.
@@diesellady1 Thank you! and yeah i just want to make sure that it’s okay to run still even though it’s more like my mini van lol😂 i don’t tow anything! i have had the truck since junior year of high school in 2010 got it brand new! i’d like to get this 6.7 cummins to 700,000 miles if i can! so i want to know how to give this truck ultimate longevity!
okay cool! so i could probably get away with the exhaust brake only, because like i said i don’t use it for towing, and i try to keep it healthy as possible
Does the exhaust brake do anything with the DPF? Like my gauge say a HP number when it’s braking. Is that sending more hot air into the exhaust or what? Normally when you let off the throttle the injectors shut off so the MPG gauge goes to 99mpg. So it’s not fuel so no heat but the engine is now just a big air pump? Confused why the exhaust brake shows HP if there is no HP because there is no fuel being delivered.
Ya that’s a sweet truck. Brought it to us to get it running and moving. First gen Cummins with rotary pump, 48re trans and fass fuel system. It was super fun to do!
Thanks for the great explanation! On newer trucks that have an option for full exhaust brake or automatic, which just means that the exhaust brake comes on when you tap the brakes... does this still accomplish the same thing? when in automatic mode that is? Thanks!
Thanks. I really need to make more of these as there are some other things I try to teach my customers all the time. Maybe I can squeeze in some time after the holidays. ")
I got the p266c code right now my truck won’t make but a few Pounds of boost and the exhaust brake won’t come on any ideas or advice ? I always have th exhaust brake on now all of a sudden it won’t do anything.
My 2012 with about 120k while idling one day started sounding like the eb was engaged. Basically it sounded like a shop vac was in my tailpipe but much louder. Cool noise but not when your pulling into your neighborhood at 2am
If you were warming it up, the computer will close the exhaust brake to help keep the heat in if the outside temps are below 40 degrees. If your truck has been on a diet,,, ") it will be pretty loud. With everything still in the exhaust it isn't very loud at all. ")
@@sutherlanddieselperformanc4140 Thank you! Yes it's a 5inch exhaust nothing but a muffler. It was about 70 degrees that evening though when it first happened. I'm guessing the actuator was messing up? Funny thing I was telling my dad I need to start using the eb more because it might start sticking or something. Then the jet engine sound started about 2 mos later but it's only done it a few times. Any how thanks for your input . I'm definitely watching more of your clips.
@@brett7761 Yes, work it as much as you can and see if you can't get that to stop. Put it in tow haul and tap the brakes on the way down hills so the converter locks up and down shifts through the gears. Or if you have a manuel trans then down shift and use the exh brake. Should free it up if you keep it working. ")
So I have a 17 ram and my actuator arm doesn’t swing all the way to the forward position, is the only way to fix this with new turbo or is there a way of breaking free of the stick
Thanks. I wish all dealers would let people know how these trucks work so you can have them last and save money. But I guess that won't ever happen. ") Glad I could help. ")
I have a 2008 6.7, full deletes, about 114k miles. This morning I noticed the exhaust brake doesn't engage anymore when parked and on high idle. There's no codes or lights. The exhaust brake does engage when driving but it's not nearly as loud as it should be. I take good care of this truck and always let it warmup. Previously when it would be cold on high idle, the thing would sound like an APU on an aircraft, lol. Any suggestions on where to start checking? Than ks.
Well the first thing I would do is get a scanner and look for exhaust back pressure. If that sensor goes bad you prob won’t throw a code and the brake will either be weak or not work at all. If you don’t see exh back pressure than get a sensor and replace it. Should make a big difference. If you see ebp then I would remove the actuator and make sure the lever on the turbo will move freely. If not then see if you can free it up and reassemble and test drive!
Question? So i star the truck with the brake system on but them I should put it off when am driving or i should keep it on at all time while am using the truck?
Mine is throwing check engine light on. It's giving me a code saying turbo needs cleaned or replaced but I'm not seeing anything wrong performance wise
What is the code. IF YOU HAVE CODE P226C, a new actuator WILL NOT FIX THE PROBLEM. I don't know of a code that tells you it has to be cleaned. I would put the truck in tow haul, tap shift down to 4th and go run it hard up and down the gears to try and make sure it is functioning properly every time you let off the throttle.
Hello , my 08 Dodge 6.7 engine light pop on . code p2262 turbo boost pressure not detected. Exhaust brake does not work. No lost of power . Was looking around and noticed that one of the eclectic wires was exposed. ( Yellow solid wire) my fault I installed a catch can and did not bolt down,so the catch can was moving around and exposed the yellow wire . The catch can was rubbing against the actuator and caused the wire to be exposed. Would that be the cause of code and exhaust brake for not working?
Yes it could be the cause. If you know that the wire is still intact, you may be able to use some liquid electrical tape and brush it on the exposed wires to protect them from shorting. Then get a piece of HIGH temp wire loom and put that over the wires so it doesn't happen again. But,,,,, it may be that the wire shorted and could have damaged the actuator. Pray that it is ok, If you have a friend turn on the key while you are listening at the wheel well on the passenger side, then you should hear it doing an auto center as soon as the key is turned on. If you don't hear it moving, then it could either be that the vane is stuck,,, or that the actuator is bad. Fist this to do is drain the coolant into a container. Remove the wheel well. Then you can remove the actuator from the turbo. If you can easily move the lever with just your hands then it is free and it would be a bad actuator. If you can't move the lever, then you need to try to GENTLY tap it to see if it will free up. It will only move a couple inches. Like from the 5 oclock position to the 7 oclock position. So don't force it past those points. Once you tap it a bit, ( btw tap does not mean hitting it or beating on it, ) it should start moving, if your really lucky you may be able to free it up enough to get it to work with the actuator. If not it's time for a new turbo. I hope it is a simple fix for you. And remember,,, ALWAYS turn on the exhaust brake when ever you drive the truck. And try to use tow haul at least once a week to keep the turbo free and clean.
Well if it is stuck, you MAYBE can free it up. Drain coolant in a clean pan so you can reuse it. Remove pass side wheel well. With Allen wrench, remove the Actuator on the side of the turbo, ( you don't need to unplug it. Mark the position of the arm on the actuator, Then take a small ball peen hammer and GENTLY tap on the arm in one direction and then back. It does not move beyond the 5 o'clock position or the 7 o'clock position to the rear. Move it back and forth over and over until it frees up. Once you can move it by hand freely, then put the arm back into the same position it was in, then put it all back together. including coolant and test drive. If it still doesn't work right it could be the actuator itself is burned up, or the turbo is beyond saving without a complete rebuild.
@@rosssikorski7085 Well I like having an Exhaust brake, so I would like to keep mine. But I do understand. Also a lot of people in Calif don't have that option. What I am doing here is just trying to help people understand how it works, and what they can do to help keep it from sticking. I did however recently discover that City Diesel has made a new actuator that is supposed to have more torque and is less likely to get stuck. I am going to try it soon on my 08 as my brake is not as strong as some of the newer trucks. I also am at 140k miles and the original turbo, but I did change out the actuator a few yrs back. I still will recommend always turning on the brake to help keep it freed up and running smoothly. ") Oh, and I am totally about performance. I am running the Aurora 5000 add a turbo kit on mine. With the factory turbo, I still have my brake, and right at 650hp to the ground. 1300 ft lbs or torque. Runs awesome. And I have a vested interest in keeping my turbo freed up, as it is stuffed down below the a5k and is a huge amount of work to remove. I also did the exh brake tweek that turns the brake on every time I start it. I will have to look it up and post up a new video for that soon.
@@diesellady1 yeah I was just giving the guy my 2 cents (taking my chances he doesn’t live in California) what you achieve with these non vgt turbo kits is way lower egt’s and lower manifold pressure which equals out to better longevity and reliability.
What would cause it to intermittently not want to engage EB? Some times it kicks on fine, other times it stops at 84% closed. I have a monitor to view the Temp and % of the VGT. When it works it works fine, just very intermittent. Just trying to trouble shoot this 2012 ram 2500.
If you can see that the vane is moving then it can't be the actuator. Most likely the vane is getting coked up with soot and carbon build up and stops when it gets stuck. You can try taking it out and running it down a long grade. Maybe down shift to 5th so the RPMs are up and then let it rattle itself while decelerating, then get your speed up again and do it over and over till you can tell that the vane is working more freely. I did this to my truck one day when I was leaving on a trip to Denver. Got on the freeway at 5:30 am heading out and when I decelerated my turbo got stuck shut. Dead pedal,,,,, then it finally let go. So I did my best to keep working the crap out of the exhaust brake in order to help free it up. I even got off the freeway a couple times and did hard decelerations through an area where I could without effecting traffic. Then when I got to Baker Grade on the 15 freeway I decided to try to hold my EGTs at around 1100 -1200 degrees. So I slowed down and lugged it up the hill. I figured if the Heat of Regen can cook the soot in a dpf and turn it into ash, I was going to try to cook the soot in my turbo to see if I could free it up more. 17 miles of climbing and then on the way down into Vegas I just worked the brake, on and off over and over. By time I was at the bottom of the hill, I couldn't get it to stick again. If your not someone who tows a lot and drive the city mostly, You really need to get it up on the highway and work it, get it hot, and make sure it closes completely while it still can. If you don't, then one day it will get stuck and you will be in for a big repair.
I bought it to tow a travel trailer, have yet to do so. My EGT hovers around 200 on the highway even in 5th. Thinking of doing a chemical additive. Any recommendations?
@@jeremylysinger7749 Where are you getting your EGT temp from? Do you have a sensor installed in the exhaust manifold? If not, those numbers are not doing you any good. Most trucks won't even idle at 200 degrees. So either the sensor is bad or you're getting it from the back of the tailpipe. As far as the additive goes, I would only use Opti_Lube XPD. You can go to www.dieselplace.com and search for lubricity additive study and you will find a great write up on fuel additives. Be very careful as some will make the fuel dryer than it is from the pump. You need to install an EDGE Insight CTS2 with and EGT probe in the collector of the manifold to see how hot you're really getting it. Good luck.
I’m getting the temp readings right in front of the turbo from RaceME Ultra. Idling around 120, climbing 6% grades approx 250-300, highway 180-220. Under 2k rpm and climbing I can get EGT higher, but 70-75 mph on the highway at 1.2-1.5k rpm with no load usually sitting around 200.
@@jeremylysinger7749 No that's not right. What do you mean in front of the turbo? Pre turbo would be in the exhaust manifold in the collector. You will be around 550 to 600 at idle minimum.
I would use full. The more you get the vane to move, the better cleaning job it will do. If you use the lesser setting, then one day when you need to use full it will have a sooted up area and could end up sticking. Hope this helps.
It's either the vane in the turbo is stuck, or the Actuator electronics quit working. Drain the coolant, remove the Actuator and see if the actuator arm moves freely. If it does, then it's most likely a bad actuator. You have to drain the coolant first because there is coolant running through the turbo to cool the actuator.
finally some useful info on the subject. anyways, i'm ford guy and my EB won't turn on. I assume because of the same reason. Is the only way to fix that is to get a new turbo? do i HAVE to do that? or if it won't turn on it won't do anything bad really?
Ok so I don't normally put up links to other videos, but this guy does a good job of explaining the ford turbo issues. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uQ9kodhck2c.html
@@diesellady1 Thank a lot, appreciate it! I didn't hear nor whistling nor roaring, i have stock exhaust without DPF (mexican truck). but i'll see if i can tap the turbo anyways
Ive only had my 09 for a year and the EB never worked. Never cared. Turbo always built boost and truck ran great. Lately when i start the truck the brake will be closed and not release. I have to restart the truck and its usually fine on the next try so clearly the vanes arent stuck. Its fully deleted and tuned, the EB button has never actually activated the brake so idk what its even supposed to feel like.
One thing comes to mind. Every time you turn the key on, the vane will move all the way in both directions to find the center point. Could be that the vane got stuck when it closed it all the way and when you start it again it moved the vane again, and managed to open it up again. There was a time when my brake did not work either and finally I put a scanner on it and discovered the exhaust back pressure sensor was bad. Bought a new one and it started working again right away. It also my be that the vane is stuck most of the time in the center so you may not notice it as much. I would drain the coolant, remove the pass side wheel well, remove the actuator and make sure the arm moves from 5 o'clock to 7 o'clock with ease. If its sticky at any time keep moving it till it frees up. But if it's free and your still not getting it to work with no codes it's going to be the EBP sensor.OR the tube is clogged going to the sensor.
I guess it's time to dig into this more. I would think the ebp sensor is working cuz my tuner can read it and under normal driving im getting a near 1:1 drive ratio. It seems like the vanes are either fully closed or fully open. When I restart it and the brake isn't active the truck builds 30+psi boost no problem. Thanks for the response tho
My exhaust Brake comes on but won’t turn off until my RPM drop to around 1000 or so and it kicks on as soon as my foot leaves the gas pedal. Is this normal to not shut off? I thought acceleration should disengage the engine brake
The exhaust brake should turn on as soon as you lift your foot from the throttle. If you are in Tow haul, it should stay on until you reach 1100 rpm and then it will shut off, OR if the torque converter unlocks. So let's say your on a hard decel coming off the freeway, if your in tow-haul it will downshift through the gears with the converter locked and once the rpms drop to 1100 it will unlock and shut off the exhaust brake. If your not in tow-haul, it will shut off the exhaust brake once your down to 1100 rpm, but you may not feel it as well if your still in a higher gear. This is totally normal. If it stays shut to a much lower rpm then it may be getting sticky. Remember to always,,,,, And I do mean ALWAYS turn on the brake every time you get in the truck and go somewhere. The more you use it the cleaner it stays and will save you a repair down the road. ") Hope this helped.
Betty Sutherland thanks yes I appreciate your help. I just figured the brake should stop once I accelerate it’s really annoying on the highways if I let off the gas I have to slow down almost to a crawl before it’ll kick off!! Thanks for taking the time to reply!!
@@ericwallace1470 No that isn't right. If you can put it in tow haul. Downshift to 4th gear and go out and accelerate hard, then let it slow you down hard. Do it over and over and see if that doesn't help free it up. I think what is happening is the vane is getting stuck in the closed position. This is common when you don't use the brake all the time, and work it to keep it free. The exhaust brake part of the vane will get full of soot and carbon build up and stick. If your really lucky, you may be able to work the snot out of it, and hopefully it will free up and stop sticking. And yes, if you hit the throttle it is supposed to open up immediately and the brake should go off. So go find a lonely road, put it in tow-haul, downshift so it won't go over 4th and once your rpms are up there, tap the brake and let the exh brake slow you down. Rattle the heck out of it and if you do that a bunch you may be able to free it up. Or put a big load on the truck and go down a long hill with the exh brake on. Work it till it frees up. And then always use the brake whenever you drive it. Turbos are very expensive to replace and if you can free it up now, you may be able to save it. ')
Betty Sutherland thank you!! I bought the truck about 3 weeks ago and I’m very unfamiliar with diesels in general so I’m sure it’ll be (hopefully not) an expensive learning experience. I still drive it on as much as possible basically until I’m irritated with it. I hope this will do some justice I’m also having boost codes p2262 so I’m thinking about doing a swap and ditching the vgt and taking the loss of EB because I don’t do much pulling to we’re I absolutely need it. Thanks again for you time and response it’s highly appreciated!
If anyone is interested as I’m a rare breed on manual 6 speeds the exhaust brake shuts off right at 1000 rpm no matter what gear your in also don’t just let your foot off the throttle, down shift one gear apply foot on brake pedal to turn your brake lights on then I skip gears down shifting with care letting clutch out easy not hard. This really works the turbo good. Soot is such a enemy
Yes, the stronger it works, the more it keeps itself clean and is less likely to fail. It's important to have an Exhaust Gas Temp sensor/gauge as well so as your climbing long grades you don't over heat the turbo. These trucks can make over 1400 degrees in the manifold and you can cook the electronics in the actuator is you lug them up long hills. Drop it down a gear and bring the RPMs up to keep the turbo spooled up and keep air moving through the engine. This takes the heat out via the exhaust and will save you lots of money of repairs.
Yes you can. Best thing to do is pull the wheel well drain coolant, remove the 4bolts that hold the actuator on. Remove actuator but if possible leave it plugged in. This gives you access to the vane arm. Draw around it to mark the position. Then see if it will move forward and backward. If it moves freely you shouldn’t need to clean it. If it’s stuck then it is possible to remove the turbo through the wheel well without removing the exhaust manifold. When installing it back in. Place the arm back into the same position and the reinstall the actuator. When you turn the key on, you should hear it move.
Betty Sutherland thanks our already had the turbo removed because I’m doing a head job. My exhaust brake would NOT disengage when I gave the truck throttle and eventually I lost the exhaust brake completely it would not engage when I took my foot off the pedal. Everywhere I look it says it must be reprogrammed or you’ll have issues with it. I’ll give this a try I appreciate your help
@@ericwallace1470 Well if you have the turbo out. You can remove the actuator and mark it. then see if you can move the arm. I assume it will be stuck. It's a bit of a trick to take it apart and clean it, but you can watch other videos on RU-vid. If your going to open it up and try to rebuild it, just buy a new vane. The ring will be installed into the exhaust housing and can't really be removed. But you can install a new vane. Good luck. Hope this helps.
Betty Sutherland thanks it did I was just really nervous about pulling the actuator! Will pull it first thing in the morning and see if it’s free thanks so much for your time!!
The problem I'm having is the exhaust break is coming on when it's not even activated. Just comes on by it's self. It's as if I'm going down a hill with the exhaust break active and let off the accelerator but it happens when I'm just driving , pushing on the accelerator peddle and the exhaust break system is switched off.
@@sutherlanddieselperformanc4140 It's an 09. I've never had the problem before. I have to re activate the exhaust break every time after I turn the engine off if I want to use it.
@@herbertbell9438 Also, if you can have someone turn on the key to the run position while your listening through the passenger side wheel well, you should hear clicking as soon as the key is turned on. The turbo will go through an auto zero routine every time you go to start the truck to ensure it is in the proper position. If you dont hear it there is a possibility that the actuator is going bad, or the vane is already stuck.
@@diesellady1 Often when I drive the truck the exhaust break stays off. I can turn it on by pushing the button on the dash and it will usually work. When I push on the break or let off the accelerator the exhaust break comes on. Today I tried it and a few times it didn't work when I let off the accelerator peddle or stepped on the break. Then, it suddenly started working normally. After that it started jamming up again with the button off. It does it when ever I decelerate and then accelerate like when I go around a curve or when I stop at a stop sign. If I unload the engine by putting the truck in neutral and then rev the engine the break goes off at least after a few tries. I can put it back in drive and just continue on my way until I have to decelerate again.
I fell for this and then I found that the ring only moves about 85% during braking. The turbo can test further getting to a spot where it can stick. Using the exhaust brake all the time just adds more wear. Sorry, I don't buy this advice.
I have replaced my actuator with a calibrated one and cannot get the P003a code to go away. I believe that since the code is there that the exhaust brake will not operate. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Did you clear the code? Many things wont work if the code is still there. Also many times the calibration needs to be done on the truck. Chrysler has a procedure for that. I would start with making sure the code is gone, then drive it and see if it works properly.
First of all, have you had the code cleared? Second can you hear the actuator move when you have someone turn the key on, and your listening at the passenger wheel well? If you hear a clicking sound, then it is most likely not stuck. But you may need to have a shop do an "on the truck calibration". This will get the ecm to learn the position of the new actuator. And finally if /when you pull the actuator off the turbo, you need to move the lever forward and backward and make sure it moves freely. Not hard to move with just your fingers. If you need to use a tool to move it then the turbo is sooted up and the vane is most likely full of carbon buildup. You may need to clean it or replace the turbo.
Guys and gals that own a 4th or 5th gen cummins. Save yourself the headache and take the turbo off and 3rd gen swap it. It cost a little money but we'll worth it in the long run.
I personally like having the exhaust brake, so for me I won't do a 3rd gen swap. Also there are lot of people that live in areas where they won't pass smog if they do this. I am just trying to help people keep the turbo working properly for as long as possible. But I do understand the need for alternatives when you just can't keep buying turbos. ")
That’s pretty normal. If the computer sees much more than that it will refuel the truck. If you have a turner it will allow it to show up to 38 lbs and no more. I had to put a mechanical gauge on mine as I’m making 50lbs of boost!
Used my ex brake from day one always , 48k on the truck and I think I’m having actuator issues , throwing codes . Wow what hunk of shit parts Ram installs . Time for 900 bucks . Or just walk away to a Toyota !
Sometimes the actuator can be negatively effected due to high exhaust temps. I recommend an EGT gauge pre turbo and keep it under 1250 sustained. I’ve seen trucks make over 1900 degrees in the manifold and that goes through the turbine side of the turbo and super heats the actuator.
I agree, But they are trying to force people to buy from them. A couple years ago Chrysler made Cummins sign a contract that they would not sell dodge specific parts to the general public. Prior to that you could get a whole turbo with actuator for under $4000. As soon as Cummins ran out of turbos Chrysler started screwing people on prices. "(
@@Dtsdave87 Thanks. I know that lots of people change the turbo to the 2nd gen one, but there are tons of cities out there where the EPA is starting to become very aggressive about changing to earlier parts. Plus, I like my VGT turbo as it works very well with my Aurora 5000 twin sset up and I still get to keep the exhaust brake. ") Just my opinion. ")
I don't. I love my exhaust brake and I run the Aurora 5000 plus kit with it. Once you do twins you'll never go back to a single. I still run my original turbo, have replaced the actuator once and ever since I have the mod that turns my exhaust brake on every time I start my truck. I mostly run in tow haul and this works the heck out of my exh brake so it works great and has for a long time. I have an 07.5 mega and rarely tow any more. But the turbos work awesome. ") If your having trouble with your turbo I would suggest running it all the time. Tow with it if you have a way to do that. It will help create more heat to cook any built up soot off of the vane and if you work it hard and use it every time you drive it, you should be good for a long time.
if you are paying $8,800 on a fuckin Turbo, you are regarded and have no concept of money. I put a NEW "OEM" Garret Brand turbo on my 6.7 Powerstroke and the turbo cost $1,800! Get real.
No, I don’t spend that kind of money on a new turbo, but when Chrysler made Cummins sign a contract to not sell dodge specific parts to the general public, at that point the dealerships started quoting people over $8k for a new turbo. It’s insane and I would never spend that much. But a lot of people still end up at the dealerships and I just wanted more people to know that you can do something to help prevent them from failing! “) that’s all!
