Man I’ve done a lot of control arms but these were some of the hardest I’ve had to install. ALWAYS start on that outer corner first because if you try to do both at once it’s nearly impossible. Another thing is I didn’t drop the subframe to get that pesky bolt out on the driver side, I disconnected the dog bone mount and jacked the trans up a bit and was able to slide the bolt out while prying a little. Wouldn’t really suggest that as the best way but I’m doing engine and transmission mounts next so I wasn’t too worried about prying on the trans a bit. Best of luck but use lube and keep the control arm straight because the bushing will go in at an angle and it’s frustrating.
What is the part number for the bolt facing the gearbox? I’ve searched and come across bolts but diagrams never show the right one. Any help will be greatly appreciated
At 5:30, when you pry the engine... My front control arm bushing bolts are 122mm long ( almost 4 7/8" ) on my car. Is it doable on a 2010 Jetta 2.5l, sedan, comfortline, CBTA engine with a KGL automatic transmission. I don't want my cv axles to pop out of transmission or splitting in half at the inner boots. Thx
Hey Mike, Thanks for this video explaining the process. I have some questions, please help to answer if you don't mind, or if you can shoot it into a video. Recently I had my golf mk7 front control arm and stabilizer links changed due to cracks (to oem). Thereafter I started noticing clunking sound whenever I approach humps. My mechanic then changed those parts to original VW parts and the sound is still persistent. They speculate it was due to the stabilizer bar bushing itself but wasn't confident about it. Would you mind sharing your thoughts and if possible the physical process of changing one?
Glad you found it helpful! That clunk is a tough call. Anytime something originates after working on the car, you'll want to retrace steps to see if something that was touched is making the noise. Without hearing the noise or driving the car, a clunk or suspension noise is hard to diagnose. Does it happen over bumps. or slow transitions? (like entering a driveway or going over a speed bump). Is it high toned or low toned? Does it seem solid or light? Is it a "clunk" or more of a "POP"? The factory rubber bushings on the sway bars tend to last quite a long time. To replace, the front subframe will need to be lowered, various bits loosened or removed, and the car will need an alignment after. It does take some time - at least 3 hours, possibly a bit more.
Can I ask who manufactures the OEM components that were removed. For example, the ball joints & control arms. I’m aware TRW make components for VW but I would like to know if this is still the case for the MK7 R
SKF makes the wheel bearings for MQB platform, but generally it doesn't matter, RIDEX, FebiBillstein, Mapco, they are all the same, just make sure the part number is compatible with your car, if the part number is compatible, then any manufacturer will do perfectly fine. But personally, i would not buy anything from ATE, their tolerances on brake discs and pads are horrible.
@@krisg822 Thank you for your reply but like you said regarding ATE. It’s all good part numbers match but certain brands are not built to withstand the endurance needed. I tend to stick with what came on the car from factory MINUS the stealerships logos
@@michael6125 exactly, front wheel bearing from seat service cost 270Eur a piece, that without installing. Same part online costs 80 maybe 100Eur, the difference is, the online part has no "VW Audi" logo.
I couldn’t get enough movement of the trans and engine to get the front left bolt out… 🤦♂️ I used my longest, beefiest pry bar, but didn’t want to risk damaging the case in my $4500 DSG. Subframe’s a comin’ off.
i know it’s probably too late but you don’t need to touch any of the bolts on the car besides the 2 control arm bolts and the lower ball joint.. a person helping is all you really need
It’s not bad at all if you have proper tools and you’re careful. 1) Support the car on a lift or jackstands, remove wheels, disconnect front sway bar links (you can leave them on the struts, just disconnect the lowers from the FSB) 2A) disconnect the sensors and harnesses for the VAQ diff and the oil level sensor. 2) make scribe marks around the body locations where the subframe is positioned. 3) remove rear downpipe to cradle bolts (2x 13mm heads) 4) Loosen rear subframe brackets and the small bolts 5) loosen the 2 rear subframe bolts (3-turns max) 6) support the front of the subframe with a small or medium floor jack (1.5 ton aluminum floorjack works well from HF) 7) loosen and remove the front 2 subframe bolts 8) use the floor jack to carefully lower the front of the subframe several inches. Notice I did not say to completely remove the subframe. You can use the above method to replace the front LCAs and/or the front sway bar. Leaving the rear bolts in place, but loose, makes working with the front subframe, and reinstalling and aligning it…10x smoother and easier. 😎 Hit the 👍 button if you folks would like to see me make a short video documenting this process. 🍻
