Dealerships are disgusting. This guy took the time to methodically organize his troubleshooting steps. He checked and double-checked his findings. He didn't jump to conclusions but instead, made the right conclusions. THIS is the difference between a 'technician' and a parts replacer. What would have happened at the dealership and what typically happens- the problem is 'diagnosed'; parts are replaced, doesn't fix the problem, the customer is called and told they need even more parts- and eventually, the bad part is 'found' but only after replacing a bunch of good parts- all at the expense of the customer. THIS is why I do my own repairs- THIS is why I watch TRUE mechanics like this guy. Awesome job, thanks for showing us the way it's done.
someone who I legit trust to use critical thinking to fix a car 😃.... but you're 3000mi away from my broken Cali car 😩😭🤦♀️ (xc70 that I *suspect* developed a bad ground. Worked fine yesterday. Now no power, not even hazards- no response to a jump)
Nice diag, Ivan! Can't wait for part 2! Ivan the super diagnostician mechanic...In the middle of winter, laying on a gravel driveway! My fingers turned ice cold and white, just watching this video.
That DS708 is an awesome tool. I got mine from Mike and it's been great. Your a tough dude working in those conditions. But it sure makes for a great case study. I appreciate it.
Great vid Ivan,you had me hooked, Eric would be proud of ya working 'in the field' in those conditions but hey, you do it all the time. Get yourself an extra large coffee to warm up bud.....at least you can get it to your place and you have it virtually nailed.....I enjoyed this vid immensely.😋
Great job as ever, it shocks me that was the dealers ie ‘the experts’ apparent diagnosis. In a nice warm workshop with a lift, the manufacturer level kit etc there are some good ones but wow there some truly terrible ones.
Ivan,that dealer estimate is exactly why a channel like yours is so VALUABLE ,to the diy'er. That's a RIPOFF any way you look at it. The fix (cost) is more than the car is worth. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!!
Polymer Electrolyte Membrane Module is that fuel pump module you unplugged and diagnosed defective. Would have made things easier if they'd just listed it as "That fuel pump module thing near the back wheel". I still like my original hypothesis better: Condom filled with battery electrolyte.
only forgien car companies would use this type of "highly tech" lingo to a customer. you need to dumb it down for ppl wtf? i would never tell a service advisor that thats the failiure. replacing a fuel pump not descriing physics!!
Gotta love dealer prices! 👍😂. If I had used a dealer for all the jobs I did on my car last year, I could have bought a new car! Looking forward to seeing what's inside that box! Nice job Ivan 😊
After I bought a fuel pump I finally found your vid. This was the answer to a no fire 2005 XC70. ( Codes were 089, 190 and 193 ) Needless to say, if you never experiences a two port fuel pump... kinda annoying when doing it green. (Hint: Buy the socket, get two O rings and expect to stick your hands in the tank and get wet with cold gas even at below a 1/4 tank). Any way. Your bypass method was what we used to test the fuel pump and the car fired immediately. We just used two paperclips and electrical tape to the connectors to test pump and start vehicle. The inside was full of aluminum corrosion dust. The other components looked brand new on this 15 year old vehicle. If they used something the wouldn't corrode for the heat sink, it would have been fine. If you feel I should replace the rail pressure sensor because of those codes or suggestion on what to do next (Clear codes and if nothing come up. let it be?), I'd appreciate it. Oh and mine was not located on the tank it was exposed on the side in the rear underneath. The part number was 30769225 for Bosch (Original number was Bosch 8629614) and 601-227 for Dorman if anyone is wondering.
great video! Volvo can be tricky to work on. One of my least favorite engines to work on is the 2.9 that is used in the xc90. All the plastic stuff breaks every time you touch it!
Hey Ivan, that is weird!! Volvo!!! Hahaha, I put a new engine in that years ago, for a customer that has blown engine. Took me 2 days to swap it out. Haha, nice diagnosis!! Sounds like fuel pump driver bad. Can't wait for part 2 :)
Atra Hasis, I like this one too. Polymer Electrolyte Membrane: Cover for Jello cups. Favorite of child nurseries and Volvo mechanic break rooms everywhere.
Thanks Ivan can't wait for part 2 Reason I have a 2004 Volvo V70 only at a 147k bought it because I like the features it has , not crazy about the mechcanicals it has still will take a asain or good old USA nuts and bolts vehicle just me . Joe still turning wrenches at 68 ( pick and chose the jobs can't get paid for the agravation .
I run into that headlight problem a lot on the newer cars which drains the battery, so what I do is I pulled the headlamp Relay, As long as the headlight system Is not part of the problem being diagnosed this works great
First mistake was going to a Volvo dealer to begin with lol the recommendations don’t surprise me they always do that but dealerships love and are proud of their parts-
Another great video Ivan! I think Volvo and other main dealers, are just not interested in repairing old vehicles of say ….. age over 10 years. Might explain why the work estimates are so high and often more than the vehicle is worth. The dealer may also be thinking, they have a chance of you buying a new or used vehicle from them. I own a 10 year old vehicle and would only try a main dealer, if I could not fix it myself or the local repair shops could not fix it.
On V50s and I think the other P1 chassis cars they had a recall on the FPMs because of high failure rate from moisture and corrosion. They moved the inside under the seat.
Oh come on Ivan. The Polymer Electrolite Membrane is the space age technological wrap that protects the muffler bearing from rusting....I kindve expected someone of your mechanical prowress to have known that ;)
Had a fuel pump on a '98 Windstar giving me trouble. On the side of the road, I took the relay out, jumpered the power, and went under the van with a hammer. I could turn the pump on and off by just hitting the tank! I replaced the pump!
I remember the first time I put a throttle module on a S80. They come as a dummy and must be programmed. Started the programming using Autologic and the whole car went dark. Freaked me out till I realized they shut down the other modules during programming. Also half the battle is figuring out what all the manufacture specific acronyms stand for. Looking to control a fuel pump on a BMW whey it’s in the airbag module of course!
That fuel pump module is notorious for going out on F150. Mine is a 2005. It's hidden up underneath the spare tire. Lots of water and corrosion up there. Its housing is made of aluminum and just corrodes away until the guts are revealed. Zap! Electronics immediately fried.
The (PEM) is called the Pump Control Module. I looked up Proton-exchange membrane fuel cells, also known as polymer electrolyte membrane. They use hydrogen fuel and oxygen from the air to produce electricity. Don’t know what that has to do with Volvo but they sure came up with an interesting name didn’t they. There is a recall on some of the Pump control Modules (PCM) it’s worth checking out. Might save your friend some money.
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics yeah I can’t believe what the dealership quoted him. Did they make up some name hoping this guy would fall for it? Pretty sad. I’ll be waiting to see what the problem really was in your next video.
Okay so I am having the same problem on my 2007 S60 T5. This video is incredibly informative, but, being a novice at repair, I don't know what that power source you connected to the fuel pump was. What is it and where can I buy it?
Polymer Electrolyte Membrane???? Is that anything like a muffler bearing Ivan lol??? Ya know Ivan I bet you get that bill down to almost nothing. I love watching you and Eric tear these thief shops apart keep it up!!!
Funnily enough, I'm working on my '99 S70 right now, exact same fault. The electronic control system is a lot simpler, but the pump is controlled by the ECM in a similar way, just that it would appear that the pump is either on, or off, via a simple relay, though to say simple, may be not strictly accurate because there would appear to be a signal path back to the ECM which I have yet to deduce. The main thing is, I'm going to be bypassing everything, and driving the pump direct at battery voltage. If that works, I'll be where you are at the end of the video.
PDM is on the opposite side of the DDM. Lol.. It's your Passenger Door Module bud. Which controls your window, mirror and door lock controls thru can lines to your CEM. Have a XC90 I'm working on as well.. with a DDM problem is how knew. 😂😄 Cheers bud
I want to hear the conversation when you call Volvo to tell them they were wrong. Also, can't wait for part 2. And what about all the other dealer observations? Do you agree with those?
'The dealer can stick it!' I spit my coffee all over the floor! BTW, careful how many amps you put through those test leads. Interestingly enough, Eric O was just talking about that the other day when testing a coil on a Dodge minivan.. They'll take 10 maybe 12 amps, but not for long! Part 2 fix for the ultimate 'in your face dealership!'
Thanks for the info I also have a girl pump that can't be accessible from the rear under the seat as shown by every one else hopefully I will only have to replace the module if you have any info on how to get to it please letr know
Did Pro Demand show the fuel pump location before you started? I always head there first for pin outs and locations. Great video, dealers always try to be stealers. Too bad some people’s perception is the dealers a better route because it’s not unless they are paying for it.
Wow. Really great video 😁👍 A lotta. Hunting down the trouble but looking great How did you blow the fuse I still can’t figure it out After looking at it twice can’t figure out how you blew that fuse I have a 97 Volvo 960 and same sort of thing it was shut off and then went to restart it and nothing if you spray starting fluid in the intake it fires up but doesn’t stay running
I whould remove the CEM and open it. It's a very common fault that these modules becoming water inside and corrodes the PCB. I had this many many times. You need to disassemble the whole CEM to fix it. BR Matthias from switzerland!
Another Crank no Start/security fault solution: Some Volvo S-70's have a chip embedded in the key that the ignition reads to allow it to start. My 2000 S70 had a key that the chip went bad. We found this out after trying the SPARE key on accident...everything instantly worked great, started right up. So to make a copy of the key with the good chip costs about $120 unless you go to the dealer and it will be about $300 +
Try using Rivolta TPS Plus penetrating fluid, full synthetic, high creep, non acidic. Made by Fuchs, it is hard to get in Australia as it "reserved" for the mining industry, amazing stuff and cheaper than Kriol. Keep the WD 40 for the other jobs
Nothing wrong with these Volvos,they’re solid cars! Just wrong location of that module. Move it inside the car and it will be fine for many years. Good thing you didn’t have to do a fuel pump on that thing,I’m not sure on this one,but on some Volvos you have to drop the exhaust,rear subframe and tank to do a fuel pump! 😮
Looks like the dealer didn't want to fix it. Those years of Volvo were good cars and would last forever if taken care of. The price of parts is crazy for those cars.
Common to change out PEM when doing the fuel pump since you're there anyway. Been there, done that. Was probably the PEM all the time in my car as the reason the pump stopped. First 5 seconds of start should be at 55psi then drops to 43 at idle until under load.
I have a 03 s60 with a 2.4t it won't start. Replaced both cam and crank sensors, plugs and coils. It has fuel in the lines and can hear the pump running on initial startup. It still won't start, any advice?
Common problem, we had a TJ (TSB) for this at the dealership. Just because one dealership experience is bad doesn't mean they are all bad. Would be like me comparing you to Autozone
Hi, very good program except from (the h-word) and you speak quite clear American-English. I wonder why you not did go strait to checking the fuel pump but I get the point that you follow a procedure to find the fault in a technical chronologic order. I recommend that you get a work-shop un wheel so you can come to the customers car where ever it is on the road. Then you can have a diesel heater and everything you need there, even a bed to sleep strait after hours with work. What equipment you use to do the diagnose with? Is it mainly for Volvo or a variety of car brands? What does it costs over there and do they sell it in Norway in northwest Europe?