I made a mistake in this build! When I torqued the main caps and the connecting rods I applied the torques provided from the Nissan Factory Service Manual (FSM). These torques would be appropriate for stock builds using the stock bolts. However, I used ARP studs for the main caps and the connecting rods which have their own specific torques which are provided by ARP. The torques needed for the main caps are torqueing each nut in sequence in three equal steps approaching 60 ft/lbs. The torques needed for the connecting rods are 30 ft/lbs. Here are links to the official ARP instructions for the main caps and the connecting rods ARP main cap- arpinstructions.com/instructions/202-5801.pdf ARP connecting rods- arpinstructions.com/instructions/202-6006.pdf I will be addressing this and correcting it in an upcoming video but please be advised about this error in the video.
Question when it says "torquing each nut in sequence in three equal steps" do we start at 28 ft lbs all the way around and then bump it up to the final 60 ft lbs? Or do we just jump straight to 60 ft lbs and go around each of them 3 times ensuring we hit 60 ft lbs on each. Thank!!
My Skyline GT350 was rated at almost 300hp, I imported from Japan with Impul Chip/ Fujitsubu exhaust. Yours should get much more than 300, especially given stock gets 276.
Nice work, man. I've been running a HKS V2 GT on my DE for about 6 months but the intention is to build to run it unrestricted (15psi) over the coming year. I was just recently thinking about how your series went radio silent and then by chance I cam across it today (7 months late). Great to see someone dedicating some time to documenting a VQ build. Keep it up.
Stock compression ratio for a DE is 10.3:1. 8.8:1 is only really for high-boost turbo applications, which is why you see them as default options at Z1 or CZP. Regardless, the DE never came with that low a CR. Enjoying the series though. Can't wait to see it used in anger in the car!
It's a digital torque reader adapter. Here's a link to the one I have from Harvir Freight www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-digital-torque-adapter-63917.html
Incredible! I have an FX35 and so I have been trying to study as much as I can about my VQ and one day I may have to rebuild my motor. My question is, how did you learn to do all of this stuff? I’d love to rebuild an engine for fun
I've always read that the weak point are the stock rods (may be good uo to 400hp) which is why I wanted this to be the first upgrade. I know there are some crazy VQ set ups out there running 1000+ hp but they probably have a lot of other components to help keep them together. I went with higher compression on these pistons (from 8.8:1 to 11:1) and I'm not sure how this would effect a boosted build. 10 years ago I'd imagine it would not be a good idea but considering the controllers and other parts you can source today, I'd bet a pretty solid build could be done on low boost.
@@OldDatsun if I change pistons and rods I would need to get it machined right? At that point what else should I change out because I'm really looking to run about 500 hp,
I'd recommend machining to ensure a good quality piston set up and cylinder head fitment. For 500hp I'd bet a turbo set up would get you there with larger fuel injectors. You could probably even use stock camshafts and still hit the 500hp mark.
Hi, I'm trying to rebuild a VQ35DE engine with the same BC connecting rods. When you tightened the connecting rods, did you torque them to 14-15 ft/lbs + 90 degrees? On the BC website, it says "50 lb-ft - 3/8". Could you clarify this for me? Thanks!! Great video.
My kit came with instructions and recommended torque specs for the stock rods. The FSM recommends 14-15ft/lbs and then the 90 to 95 degree turn. I followed this and things feel correct. You are correct though that on the BC website they have torque specs. I should have measured the torques against that but I'm wondering if the 90 degree turn gets it in that 45-50 ft/lbs. Just another point, if you do go for the 50ft/lbs torque, make sure to at least tighten it down in 2 steps that way you can ensure a true tightening. Thanks for bringing this up though!
So if i want to build my g35 with 168k miles i can still build it and boost it ? My goals in mind are around the 450-500 hp mark what would i need bc ik im gonna have to build the motor for that hp goal. I also want to make it push out more torque for the same amount of hp. Example: if the car is pushing 466hp boosted i want to have at least 410-430 tq-lbs how could i make that happen ?
Off the top, you'll need a turbo setup. There are a few out there between single and twin turbos. The stock internals of a VQ35DE are only good and reliable to about 400 to 450 hp so forged rods and pistons are a must but investing here will be worth it. Along with that, I'd strongly recommend going all ARP like I did especially going to head studs instead of bolts. After that stock cams might be fine but larger injectors and a good tune will probably get you in those 450 to 500 hp and torque will probably match. One thing that should help torque will probably be a different intake plenum, one with longer intake runners I would think might add torque. Another thing to mention is make sure you also budget for new flywheel and clutch setup and wheels to put that power down.
you can make 450 whp on a DE with everything stock very easy. BeDistinct has a rev up DE supercharged making around 460 stock cams stock pistons rods etc go check out his build if you want the same goal.
So I ordered the pistons as oversized (96mm) and they came with the rings. I measure each specific ring to a specific cylinder and test with a gauge if they are in the correct clearance. If the clearance is too tight, you can file them down with a ring file and keep measuring as you remove a small amount of material at a time.
Mine didn't require much of an overbroad buy the cylinder were more worn in the middle so I had them bored and honed to the 96mm requirement. I also gave a new piston to the machinist so they could verify
IMO until moving to some kind of deck support system the HR's bed plate and journals aren't that helpful. Not like i have first hand experience but i've read the bores distort from the open decks before either HR or DE see main distortion with rods/pistons. Plus Nisformance has an oil pump with the wider higher flowing HR/VHR gear for the DE so there is no oiling advantage
DID YOU PUT OUL UNDER THE BEARINGS??! I sure hope between those clips you wiped it clean and dry for those main caps. 😅 BROTHER THERES OIL UNDER YOUR MAIN CAP BEARINGS THAT NEEDS TO BE DRY 😰
@@OldDatsun AWESOME! can't since I'm planning to do something similar soon, although I won't be going for conservative power numbers so all your knowledge is helping me possibly avoid having to buy a new engine xd
You're trying to look like someone who knows what he's doing. I'm sure your main and rod bearing won't last a few races. You can not tighten the ARP studs according to the factory manual with a 90 degree turn. Factory fasteners have a different steel and, as a result, the yield strength. You have tightened crankshaft and connecting rods Don't thank me for saving you a couple of thousand dollars
