VW B5: Passat 1.8T AWM Timing Belt Removal

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30 июн 2013

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Комментарии : 63

@jkinney7924 7 лет назад

Your video and emails were very helpful for the TDI! I'm back since I just purchased a Passat for the wife!

@EXOVCDS 7 лет назад

Congrats on the new addition to the family!

@chrisaguero4743 9 лет назад

Definitely a well put together video. Finished my timing belt replacement in one day easily with this video. And I have Alldata, but this was much simpler and faster to reference off of. Thx a ton. I wish most guys would use similar recording techniques like you did. Only issue I had was some of the angles you were catching the process with , what i'm assuming was, a head camera.

@EXOVCDS 9 лет назад

Yes, video glasses... the camera does not follow my eyes, sorry. Thanks for watching & taking the time to comment!

@gastonandres3500 7 лет назад

Awesome vid man! Thank you so much!

@EXOVCDS 7 лет назад

Thank you and thank you for watching!

@VENUEATHENS 9 лет назад

Thank you, I will definitely go with your tip! This will be my first timing belt replacement, a lot of material I've read on this, warns to never turn the crank counter clockwise... Due to possibly damaging valves.. only way I can think to lock the crank in place, and then turn bolt in appropriate direction (counter clockwise) to free it, is with a crank stop. Then hopefully after crank sprocket is removed successfully, all the marks will be checked to make sure they line up, as you suggested timing belt will then be removed after bolts loosened, then both cam/crank sprockets removed... i know the cam sprocket has a type key or groove it must be in to settle back in it's place for re-assembly, so that it will be in the same position when it was disassemble (lined up with marks or what ever position it might have been left in), i don't know if the crank sprocket also has similar key or groove it must be in to settle properly in place where it was left in while disassembled (lined up with marks at TDC). So that everything is in its proper place, also I'm not sure if pressure built up in valves might cause slight shift of the metal tabs that both cam/crank sprockets sit on. That could throw off the whole thing, it may be extremely difficult to then re-align the marks of cam/crank if there has been any movement with the tabs/bolts that the sprockets sit on/slide in place and install (I don't know what they are called). I am not going to keep the car, I am doing work on it because I want to learn as I go. I enjoy working on cars and building my knowledge. Thanks again!

@EXOVCDS 9 лет назад

The cam has a removable key (woodruff key)... don't drop it! The crank sprocket also has a key, but it is part of the sprocket. The cams will move slightly when the belt is off... simply readjust once the sprocket is back in place. Turning the crank too far left or right will cause valve contact, try to keep it as close to TDC as possible.

@VENUEATHENS 9 лет назад

***** Thank you! I apologize for so many questions... there are just many unknowns, these are few major ones I can think of... Hopefully it can help others with similar questions/concerns... So once the belt is off the cam it will slightly move off its TDC mark, once I re-install the cam sprocket after replacing the seal is it okay to then move the cam sprocket independently without belt on by hand back to it's TDC marks (locking it in place with cam clamps)? I just want to make sure i understand correctly.... i will try my best to keep the crank sprocket at TDC (minimal movement) with the crank lock on for removing the bolt/crank sprocket to replace crank seal, I hope that the metal shaft that the crank sprocket installs on wont shift after the crank sprocket is removed with the crank lock off... i wont move the crank witout the belt, once i re-install sprocket and timing belt is on, tensioned properly, cam/crank are aligned with their TDC marks is it okay to then do two revolutions by hand clockwise from the crank bolt to make sure both cam and crank marks are align, timed properly without causing valve damage?

@EXOVCDS 9 лет назад

Tony Atin Some movement left or right by either the cam or crank will not cause valve damage... you have to move either quite a bit before something will make contact (TDI engines are a different story). If either move off of TDC, simply reposition before mounting the belt. As long as the crank sprocket bolt is in place (does not have to be fully tightened), you can tension the belt and then rotate the engine 2 turns and recheck your TDC marks. If the TDC marks are OK, tighten the crank bolt to specifications... if not, reposition the cam or crank as needed.

@VENUEATHENS 9 лет назад

***** sorry for some reason my first message didn't get posted. I will reposition the cam or crank sprockets as needed if they move of marks. Would you recommend any threadlock color blue on either the cam or crank bolt? To be on the paranoid side, but safe... other than what was mentioned previously, I don't think there will be any issues, the crank sprocket could be hard to get off because of woodruff key (i will be using a puller for that, maybe for the cam sprocket as well). The tensioning might be a bit tricky. Moving the pully tab in correct position, tightening, then adjusting with special tool or plyers if necessary; to get the 8mm gap once tensioner is extended. I think that was the correct distance recommended by ECS, I will be buying a timing belt kit from them. Thank you again for all your great feedback & advice, hope to see more great videos in future! I will keep posted with my progress. Encase anything out of the ordinary happens, or unexpected. Thanks again!

@EXOVCDS 9 лет назад

Tony Atin No thread lock on either bolt. Crank bolt needs to be replaced / one time use. Both sprockets should come off fairly easily once the bolts are off.

@jkinney7924 7 лет назад

Looking at kits for the Passat AWM, there are many options. Is it advisable to replace other stuff like relay roller, idler etc?

@EXOVCDS 7 лет назад

J Kinney Replace as many components as you can. You can leave the seals if they are not leaking.

@VENUEATHENS 9 лет назад

Hi, would you suggest replacing the cam and crank sprocket rubber seals for 2004 Audi a4 1.8t during replacing timing belt, water pump, pulley and tensioner....? the car has 166k miles... i know the crank sprocket bolt will be bitch to remove (might require some heat with the torch), I'm afraid the engine won't be TDC after removing it... I have a crank stop, also a clamp for the cam sprocket... but it still seems sketchy.... any suggestions would be great help. Thanks!

@EXOVCDS 9 лет назад

At that mileage, yes, it's a good idea to replace those seals... always loosen or tighten the crank sprocket bolt while the timing belt is in place... that way, if the crank moves, the cam will move with it.

@FreziodClipsTwitch 7 лет назад

Can you remove the lower belt cover without removing the fan clutch or can you replace the tensioner without removing the lower cover completely?

@EXOVCDS 7 лет назад

I don't know... I always remove everything.

@elizabethsteffa7229 7 лет назад

Freziod no you can't

@denningdavidm 2 года назад

Great video as usual. I have the same engine and my belt broke while driving. Are my valves damaged and will I need a new head? And how do I align cam and crank properly for my scenario?

@EXOVCDS 2 года назад

Most likely bent valves. You won't know the extent of damage until things are apart. Usually it's just valves & guides. Piston or head replacement is only needed when a valve head breaks off and gets stuck in the head or piston. You can install a new belt and do a compression test before you start removing the head. The cam gear has a tdc mark that aligns with a notch in the valve cover (12 o'clock position). Remove #1 spark plug and turn the crankshaft until you see the piston is at the very top. But first... get a service manual. It will answer a lot of questions.

@denningdavidm 2 года назад

@@EXOVCDS thank you

@EXOVCDS 2 года назад

Thank you for watching!

@rjmiller1443 7 лет назад

how or when will i be able to tell when ive got it at tdc

@EXOVCDS 7 лет назад

By looking at the TDC mark on the crank pulley and at the cam pulley / sprocket. They both need to be at the TDC mark... your service manual should show images of those markings.

@Noneoftheabuv 2 года назад

Anyone know the specs of the stud the timing belt pulley bolts to? Mine actually broke. Or a name of the stud?

@EXOVCDS 2 года назад

volkswagen.7zap.com/en/usa/passat/pa/2003-404/1/109-109065/

@grzegorz16100 9 лет назад

Hi. Do you know resistance values for MAF on 1.8 petrol passat 1999yaer?

@EXOVCDS 9 лет назад

Gregory May This is all I have: fkh161.ca/VW/MAFAEB.pdf

@grzegorz16100 9 лет назад

Thanks.

@wizkid01 6 лет назад

Thomas, if you were to replace the crank seal how would you lock the crank to remove the crank bolt?

@EXOVCDS 6 лет назад

+wizkid01 attach a holding tool to the crank sprocket.

@EXOVCDS 6 лет назад

I use this counter hold tool: public.snapon.com/R_RRD/Objects_lg/images/YA6760.jpg I use one breaker bar to hold the tool and another to break the bolt loose. Most of the time I use the impact gun to free the bolt, but always use the tool to hold (both removal of the bolt & when tightening it).

@sparks6666 6 лет назад

Getting ready to do my AWM this weekend... looks like some people fabricate a holding tool out of a steel bar with some holes drilled in it for bolts. Thats what I plan on doing.

@wizkid01 6 лет назад

Makes sense to fabricate your own, good luck mate

@EXOVCDS 6 лет назад

+Rich Wachtel Keep us posted / update us when done.

@aeroserge 10 лет назад

Its hard putting back all together???

@EXOVCDS 10 лет назад

No, just pay attention to how it came apart and you will have no issues putting it back together.... installing the timing belt and making sure that the camshaft & crankshaft are lined-up, is the only thing that might be a bit tricky.

@jkinney7924 6 лет назад

I have a bad belt driven fan bearing. It looks like there is enough space between grill and radiator for electric.

@EXOVCDS 6 лет назад

J Kinney Replacing the bearing is cheaper.

@jameshurley5360 9 лет назад

What program did you use to Isolate the Music in the Video?- lol - I'm an Audio Engineer and that Just Interested me that you actually took the time to take it out. :) Great Video man! I have some Questions for you as I just bought a 99' Passat - Runs shaky and is misfiring I was thinking Timing belt and Plugs and Coil boots should smooth it out. Any thoughts are appreciated Just shoot me an Email or msg back! thanks Thomas!

@EXOVCDS 9 лет назад

I can't remove music... so I just add white noise to cover it. Plugs, coils & vacuum leaks are common items to go with age. A bit of checking will confirm.

@ukaszw9629 11 лет назад

Longer bolts - only a little bit better access. But smart patent :)

@ukaszw9629 11 лет назад

Longer bolts - only a littlebit better access :)

@Mtechthewise 9 лет назад

that coolant looked too much like water! no G12 in there?

@EXOVCDS 9 лет назад

It doesn't get that cold around here... so less than 50/50 mix is usually not an issue. I always fill with 50/50 mix though.

@kinderutz 3 года назад

Does the 1.8t require service position? The 2.8 has all the room in the world to do a timing belt job without removing the front end.

@EXOVCDS 3 года назад

Service position always makes things easier.

@kinderutz 2 года назад

@@EXOVCDS I guess the 1.8t is longer than the 2.8.

@EXOVCDS 2 года назад

2.8 12v or 30v?

@spkprobe2 8 лет назад

why no seals, I notice no one changes the seals

@EXOVCDS 8 лет назад

+spkprobe2 Depends on the condition... I know, it's best to do them regardless. With any job, there will be items that should be done / could be done "while we have things apart"... add those few items too the estimate and the customer has second thoughts about bringing the car in for work. Most of our customers are on the cheap side / phone around for the best (according to them price)... our long time customers, "do what is needed / what you think is best". We try to do as much as we can on all jobs. If things leak down the road... I'm sure we'll hear about it.

@sevyevgeni6075 10 лет назад

You did this without pulling the car into service position, wow. What's the point of removing the bumper then?

@EXOVCDS 10 лет назад

It is in service position... but I don't have the correct spacers to keep it in place, so the lock carrier (radiator assembly) always wants to slide back towards the engine. There are some times when I remove the radiator completely out of the way.

@EXOVCDS 10 лет назад

As a note, "Service Position" just means moving the radiator assembly away from the engine by 12 " or so. It does not mean removing the whole front end like in most of the youtube videos that are out there.

@sevyevgeni6075 10 лет назад

Ohhhhh haha makes a lot more sense.