Thank you for this video…used it to rescue my son in laws Caddy that had the steering lock jammed in place …van was hardly worth saving but a lifeline for his business so a free fix was an amazing find..
Great video skills Sean. 2 points. If you want to remove the shear bolts then drill a 3mm hole in the top of them. hammer a t15 bit into the hole and turn with a spanner. 2. There are two problems which both play a part in the lock becoming stiff. The first is under a hardened 10mm cap on the lock body is a spring loaded deadlocking pin with a ramp shape on it that gets dented so the pin won't slide on it freely. Grind or Dremel the casting around this cover and pull it out. Now the steering locks but won't deadlock. The lock will also be possible to reassemble as once deadlocked it cannot move to wriggle the shaft into place. The primary issue you had was the pin that stops the lock from locking until you remove the key has broken through the casting. Remove that pin and spring and the casting shrapnel and the lock would now lock as soon as you turned to the lock position before you took the key out. I take the lock right off to work on these as I have the technique to remove the shearbolts and it makes disassembly and cleanup easier.
Thanks for this Craig. Drilling the 3mm hole and hammerin' in the t15 bit is a great idea allright, certainly if the preferred option is to remove the whole unit . From what I gathered from other videos on this, these shear bolts aren't very tight. I just wanted to remove the lock mechanism in it's entirety - not just the shrapnel - and get back to driving. The key itself is chipped so this is security enough ... hopefully! Thanks again, Seán
I got a small pin drift through the hole on the plastic casing and tapped the right hand bolt out quickly. The left hand bolt has poor access to do this so I snipped just enough plastic housing away to do the same. I replaced it with standard 16mm length M8 bolts. Drilling would’ve been cleaner but my car broke down in a parking bay with no access to power. 🙁
I vouch for the first point. by far the easiest way to remove the bolts is to drill a hole in it and hammer a bit into it, no amount of tapping could relase the bolts on mine, luckily i saw this comment after breaking every 'screw extractor' tool. make sure to use a sharp HSS or metal drill bit. also it isnt really possible to make a straight hole as the dash is in the way, it doesnt matter as long as the bit is hammered in place. ps. i removed 4 screws this way with ease. Thanks !!
Disconnecting the battery will not stop the engine running, that's right, more importantly it's very likely to cause a damage to the alternator, never disconnect the charging circuit whilst the engine is running.
Yep, a wise comment, thanks Jan! I have to admit though the first thing I did was disconnect the battery without thinking, as I'd imaging 99% of people will do if they can't turn their engine off. Fortunately it was just 'ticking over' for a short time 'till I disconnected the fuel relay and no harm done ... so don't despair if you've disconnected the battery first. All the best!
È bello sapere che l'hai fatto funzionare di nuovo. Da quello che vedo, Audi, Seat, Skoda e VW condividono tutte accensioni simili. Is míse le meas! Seán
Thanks for posting this. What is it with these bloody VAG barrels? I’ve just had to change the barrel and cylinder on mine. It was very tight to turn, sometimes I’d take the key out and the ignition remained on and then it seized solid. If it helps anybody watching this I removed my sheer bolts and posted a video on my channel explaining how I did it.
Great video! Man thanks for sharing. What was the reason removing the whole block? To prevent locking while turnint the steering wheel? I am having the same issue. I will try to remove the broken parts an try tirst without cutting it out. We shall see. Someone did iz here too so i guess this works as well.
Hello Zon, Yeah, I would have been concerned about the steering locking alright if I only removed part of it but regardless of this, the upper part - the lock itself - was still stopping the key from turning properly even though the other broken pieces were removed. You might be able to fish it out without drilling the hole, depending on where it broke, but I found I had to drill and drop it down through. All the best, Seán
@@keepitassimpleasyoucan145 had to take the whole thing out. My key would not turn enough to insert the wire. Drilled the bolt heads and used a screw extractor. Replaced the cylinder. Car is fixed.
Hi, this seems to be the simplest of all the videos I have seen. I need to do this job on a Caddy maxi panel van. Before I can start I need to know more clearly how to remove the barrel. From the video its not clear (to me) where the paper clip goes in. I see the hole but not sure if the clip must go in that hole or more towards the notch. The hole seems smaller than the size of the paper clip.
'Morning Evert, line up the two half-circle holes(on position) then insert the paper clip. Hopefully you'll be able to do this as sometimes/most-times the pieces that jam up the mechanism on the inside make turning the ignition to this point difficult. If you can't line them up then try to insert it anyway or a thin needle held by a pliers as you just need to press down the clip that stops it sliding out, Seán
Hello, I am trying this method on my golf mk6. How did you get the lower spring loaded part of the locking pin out? It seems quite large and wouldn’t have fit out of the small hole you drilled. Cheers
Hello, I used the wire to maneuver the larger piece so it fitted out. I had to add corners on to the hole - 7:55 on video - using the side of the drill and a small grinding piece. It slipped out so quick I didn't manage to get it on the video. Hope this helps, Seán
Yeah I see that part but I mean the lower part which is hard to see but is there at 6:06 and then gone in the next shot at 6:28 before the steering control module is removed.
@@knickerzz6916 'Morning, Everything inside the 'ledge' was part of the steering lock mechanism and was broken and had to be removed. The first circular ring part came out in bits through the front. It looks like it was complete in the video but when I started to remove it it was broken and came out in parts.
I had no problem with the NCT. Checking the NCT Preparation Guide on this it says "It is acceptable for a steering lock to be missing or inoperative provided the vehicle has an engine immobiliser, or a permanently installed immobilisation device which acts on either the steering, brakes or the transmission" see under 7.3 Locks and Anti-Theft Devices- www.ncts.ie/media/aidher01/nct_manual_2023.pdf
I had this problem too. I sprayed WD40 oil into the keyhole to lubricate the broken parts and giggling the key and the steering wheel to get it to this position. If you remove the top of the key fob by tapping out the pin you might be able to apply an extra bit of 'gentle persuasion' by attaching a vice-grip to the top of the metal part of the key. And if this doesn't work my next step would be to drill the hole underneath to try to remove broken parts of the steering lock that's keeping it from turning. Keep me posted - good luck! Seán
Hello Ash, The broken steering lock was my problem too, although mine wasn't stuck in the 'on' position as it appears yours is. The solution I imagine is the same, that is to remove the steering lock mechanism and free-up the steering. It should come down once the spring that pushes it up is removed. The hole I drilled in the bottom of the steering was the way I got it out, straight down. Hopefully this helps, Seán
Hi there,I have a golf that wont start. I think that the problem might be petrol pumpbut in your video you stop your car by taking something out of the engine.Any adviceif this might cause the problem or other ideas. thanks Chris
Hello Chris, I took out a ‘Relay’ which is a small in-between switch on the circuit that turns on another circuit. My car is a petrol engine too but I expect Pumps and Relays are similar for diesels as well. The main reason I knew about the Relay in the engine is that these caused my own car not to start and yes, I looked at the petrol pump first too. There’s a Relay for the fuel pump behind the small glove box(in video) but it was the one in the engine that was my problem. To confirm it was a fuel problem I put about 2 spoonfuls of petrol directly into top of Carburetor, then tried to start and engine almost turned over(not suggesting you do this but if you do then wear goggles in case of spitback). By the way, from what I’ve seen in scrapyards, a lot of Audi’s, Seat's and Skoda’s have very similar fuse and relay setups. Good luck and let my know how you get on, Seán
Try spraying WD40, then 'wiggle' both the steering and key. If nothing else works and it is a Mk 5 then you could try drilling the hole first to 'fish out' the broken bits that are jamming it up.
@@keepitassimpleasyoucan145 I ended up getting it by smashing it with a hammer holding it in different positions. I just want to be able to use my key with the new assembly.
@@danjim7056 was your key stuck in the lock? What did you hit with the hammer? My Jetta has had issues before but today the switch wont let me go into the ON position... The lock is turning but jamming up like everyone elses..
@@Desopolis I took the whole lock assembly off the steering column and hit the body of it with a hammer. You might be able to free it while installed still but it's going to jam again if you Don't replace or fix it.
Bonjour, me concernant la clef n'est pas bloquée dans le neiman, je peux la mettre dans le contacteur mais impossible de la tourner pour pouvoir démonter avec la tige métallique, une solution ? Metcu
Hi there. I replaced the steering lock mechanism on mine and refitted old immobiliser but now car won’t start. Electrics all working fine but car won’t do anything when I turn to the start engine position. Any ideas?
Sorry for the late reply Ryan - does the engine actually turn over and not start or does the engine do nothing? If the engine turns over and doesn't start then I'd be thinking first that the Keycode chip in the key is not matched(or something amiss) with the cars Computer Unit? After this I'd start looking into the wiring, or make sure the unit at the bottom(other end of steering barrel) is connecting properly, Seán
Hi I thought I had broken pieces same as yourself but what i found was a small metal piece with a spring attached to the end of it, It was jammed so i removed the spring. any suggestions on what to do further, thanks.
Hello David - from what you describe it sounds like this piece is from the first part of the ignition( the part that holds the key - the part that's in my hand at 4min20sec of video) this may pop out when removing this part but probably isn't the reason you had to take the barrel apart in the first place. Check if the inside part of the barrel turns ok with a flathead screwdriver. If it doesn't then the problem is inside here, Seán
@@keepitassimpleasyoucan145 hi Sean thanks for your reply, I've check in around and found no more broken pieces etc, the ignition turns fine, I assembled it all back together and befre I put the barrel on, I turned the ignition with a flat head screw driver all is fine the car is turning over ok, my issue now is once the barrel is on and back in place I insert the key and it's not Turning properly at all, I don't know why, I've had the barrel check all is fine with that also, any further advice be much appreciated, I've had no car for over a week now :/
@@dmahn90 Hello again David, if the inner ignition mechanism turns smoothly with a flat screwdriver all the time when you have the front part of the key barrel out, and there are no broken parts inside then that points to the first part of the key barrel itself. Have you got/tried your second key? Maybe your key is worn and just doesn't unlock the key barrel properly anymore. You'll know this anyway when you have the two parts of the key barrel separated and if you can turn the key in the ignition when it's out of the barrel, Seán
@@keepitassimpleasyoucan145 hi, well I seems to be the lock in the inside is the problem, I got the barrel on and she i tried Turning it its getting stuck I can hear the lock it's self clicking on the inside, I don't have the proper tools to drill out the lock like you did and that would possibly sort all my problems, so I'm getting a locksmith out today to replace the lot, it's costly but I'm in need of the car ASAP, thanks for all the info Sean greatly explained.
@@dmahn90 'Morning David, it mightn't be the standard locksmith job so don't be surprised if he/she goes 's*@t !' Just in case though, you'll only need to drill the hole if you can't get all the broken pieces out, and any drill shoild do - as it's aluminium(softer than steel) the drill can be used to grind to grind by putting light sideways pressure in the hole. Just remember to wear goggles in case it breaks, Seán
Hello, I had already removed the inside of the ignition. I needed to drill the hole to remove the remaining part of the steering lock so I just inserted a measure stick inside and marked length outside ... but it was under the middle of the steering column as the steering lock is directly under this part so I would have drilled here anyway, Seán
And if this doesn't work you could just go straight to drilling the hole underneath the actual steering-lock area and take out some broken pieces. this should allow the key to turn.
'Morning. The answer is no, the steering lock is removed, but the chip in the key is the better anti-theft device I reckon. I've heard a large screwdriver can force the ignition or jamming the steering from left to right will snap the aluminium part of the lock - if you're a would-be thief that is, All the best! Seán
@@keepitassimpleasyoucan145 Yes!! but I did it little different. I just pull out all small parts from ignition inside. I found a small piece and assambled. finally work again.
Heya mate, yesterday I was stuck in a car park and kept trying to turn the ignition on but it wouldn’t turn all the way. After trying and trying for 2 hours it turned on (luckily) and I drove it home. Now at home it’s fully not turning and I’ve tried WD40 Jiggle still not working, my golfs a 2004 model and it is quite old. Would you say it’s a Key problem or the ignition Mechanism needs to be replaced?
Sounds like the same problem I, and a lot of other people have had but if you have a different key give it a try - though usually a worn key sticks a little and gets worse in time. You could go as far as taking out the 'key section' (first part of video) and if key then turns when disconnected then it's pretty certain that some part of the steering lock has broke and is causing the jam. If your key is stuck in the 'ON' position I think I'd try this first though as it can be tricky to get it back to ON again, Seán
Hey mate,I’m currently looking for a Igniton barrel housing. Do the ignition barrel housings from later models (2005) or older models fit it or does it have to be the original part for the actual car and model? I’ve called my local European parts specialist and they say I have to buy the whole kit which costs about (200-400) Australian dollars.
Bonjour, me concernant la clef n'est pas bloquée dans le neiman, je peux la mettre dans le contacteur mais impossible de la tourner pour pouvoir démonter avec la tige métallique, une solution ? Metcu
J'ai eu ce problème également. J'ai utilisé de l'huile WD40 dans le trou de la serrure et j'ai rigolé la clé et le volant pour l'amener à cette position. Si vous retirez le haut de la clé en tapant sur la goupille, vous pourrez peut-être attacher un étau au haut de la partie métallique de la clé. Si cela ne fonctionne pas, ma prochaine étape serait de percer le trou en dessous pour essayer de retirer les pièces cassées du verrou de direction qui l'empêche de tourner - bonne chance ! Seán
