Here is the Kit used in this video www.shopdap.com/liquimoly-oil-change-kit-mk7-gti-and-golf-r-2-0t-engine.html Here is a less expensive castrol kit www.shopdap.com/oem-castrol-oil-change-kit-mk7-gti-and-golf-r-2-0t-engine.html Here is the MK7 Oil Filter Housing tool www.shopdap.com/mk7-gti-oil-filter-housing-socket.html
A tip from my experience. The oil in the filter housing will not drain into the pan, due to the check valve at the bottom of the plunger. This holds oil in the housing when the engine is not running, to stop oil starvation on start up. You would wan't to loosen the filter first (it holds about 1/2 quart) till you hear it draining, then drain your oil. Doing this will prevent the oil you spilled on the intake manifold and A/C line.
I've decided on 7,500 mile oil change intervals on my 2016 GTI. At 22,500 miles, I did my first one yesterday (dealer did two for free). I always rotate my tires while the oil drains, and typically get the maximum amount of oil out of my cars. My car took a full 6 quarts to get to the middle of the area on the dipstick almost exactly between low and full, when cold. After driving and checking again, it was exactly at the full level when hot.
He doesn't mention it but you want to warm up the engine oil before changing it. Flows much better out the drain hole. Also, with an oil extractor you don't need a lift or ramps or get under the vehicle. Can all be done from the top of the engine.
I like your work man, but you should loosen the oil filter first so that the valve inside it opens up and releases all the oil stuck in the filter to drain down into the oil pan. Now all that old oil just went back into the oil pan because you already put a new oil drain plug in. Not trying to be negative, like I said, I really enjoy your channel and all your work. On another note, what’s with VW and Audi calling for 0W20 weight oil (508/509) in their engines now? That seems too thin compared to their always 5W40 or 0W40 weight. I hope it’s NOT just for MPG and CAFE standards. I care more about longevity than MPG’s.
Great video! One note from my experience: the oil fill location on the engine is located in spot that allows spills to fall directly on the downpipe and heat shield. Do you just spray some brakleen on it and wipe, or just wipe off what you can and burn off the rest?
Would this video apply the same to a 2013 Scirocco R? I can't remember which Golf version but I think the Golf R has the same engine compartment layout as the Scirocco. Please correct me if I am wrong?
Someone already mentioned it a few replies back, but I’ll reiterate. Warm up the oil first, it drains a lot easier. Also, with an oil extractor, there’s no need to crawl under the car, & no need to replace the drain plug.
I like your "torque wrench" got the same one ;) and using brake clean on any of that would not be advisable (with all that plastic.) contact cleaner is made specifically for that
Thank you for the video. I have a Passat 2016 how do you reset the service light? I already reset the oil change light but can’t reset the service light.
I drive a 2013 MK6 GTI. Would you recommend this over the Motul? Which has better wear characteristics? It is a daily, planning on upgrading to a APR stage 2 with a large turbo custom tuning in the future
you might also tell the viewers oil levels should be checked when the engine is at operating temperature. when i check cold it looks low, best to make sure its at temp to avoid over filling.
when the car went up on the lift i was amazed at how fast it went up and thought to myself "wow, thats a nice lift" then i realized it was fast forwarded
Step 1- Get $10,000 lift. Looking at the oil pan with it's nooks, using a ramp is going to leave a lot of oil in the pan. Level surface is a must, IMO.
I live in the UK and have many European oils available I like Fuchs TITAN GT1 PRO C-3 XTL 5W-30. IF you guys in the US could buy any oil, what would you use?
I may be wrong on this but gravity tends to suggest this isn't the best way to remove dirt and debris from the oil to me. Call me old fashioned. Plus removes the possibility to upgrade to magnetic sump plug which you can then regularly check for any signs of contamination, a good thing no ?
Boodieman72 liqui moly is the best. Men styles barber just look up some tests on RU-vid. It holds up better under extreme highs and lows compared to anything else. And the new generation they put out apparently had the best protection/lubrication possible
VW states that Golf Mk 7 engines (both TSI and TDI) require 5.5 liters (5.8 quarts) of oil. Once it's fully drained, I've always used 6 quarts (5.7 liters) and it works just fine.
Quick question. I have a brand new 2021 GTI SE with 500 miles on it. Should I do an oil change after the "break in" period at about 1k miles? VW says not to, but it seems most everyone else says to do so. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
He's able to pull it off, but have to I rely on this. www.shopdap.com/make-model-year/volkswagen/gti/mk7-gti-2015-present/tools/vw-audi-special-oil-funnel.html
We have one for performance brakes coming in the future. Here is our headlight install ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fLKydAgQbOM.html
After performing many DIY oil changes on the Mercedes Benz 3.2 V6, it was always MUCH easier to refill through the removed vertical oil filter space. MB provides the "710" cap for top-offs between changes. Same here, or can anyone respond on this? ASKDAP?
BOOSTEDDUDE Because the vehicle has special oil lubricant to break the vehicle in so the car engine can last longer. If you change it to early, the car won't have gone through a proper break in.
@ 6:19 Looks like you figured out what I was going to suggest, cutting the bottom off an empty bottle to use as a funnel. Though usually I use a quart bottle as it's less likely to tip over. Haven't done an oil change yet on my TSi so I don't know how well the bottle neck engages with the filler neck. Thx
Hi, thanks for the great video! I ended up slightly overfilling my MKVII. Should I be concerned if I'm probably around 200ml too much oil? The manual makes it sound really bad if you have too much oil saying it can damage the Engine and/or Cat. Any input?
@@Piercemxpx Yeah, I found this out back in like 2014 when my 1.8t's original K03's blew up and I drove home about 6 or 7 miles with smoke billowing out my exhaust! I probably had about 2 qts left in the Engine by the time I got home. That was at 110k miles I think. 3 turbos later I'm still cruising with over 205K on the clock. Granted I got a new head at 104K miles.
Torque for oil filter cap is not so important as the seal works on o-ring. be sure to visual screw down cap and filter body and all be fine. the same thing is the oil drainplug. no torque, just visual turn-to-stop.
Dealer usually charges about 100 bucks, sometimes they have specials and it's a little less. If you use a quality synthetic oil and an OEM filter, it hardly makes any sense doing it yourself, unless you like to. I'm kind of 50/50 with my car.
Cost of oil + labor cost which can be $100/hr so you’re looking at $100+ for the job You do get peace of mind knowing it’s done and completed properly but it’s so much cheaper to diy
I have a 2013 gli with the Gen 3 engine. Ecs tuning sent me a kit without the filter. Telling me I didn't need it for this engine. Is that correct, before I start changing it
You can change you oil without replacing the filter but it's not something I would advise. If you're asking if your car has an oil filter yes it does have one and you should replace it
+Ismael Mahamat We actually wanted to show an option for if you didn't have a funnel. Also as mentioned below the coolant was under filled not overfilled. Thanks for watching.
+nickolastiguan any generic oil pump should work, just make sure the plastic tube you put in the dip stick tube is long enough to touch the bottom of the oil pan so you suck up all the oil.
Not cleaning the hole after taking out the oil. Not having new oil on the new filter. Not wiping off the old oil on the filter holder, not cleaning the oil of the botton on the engine. Getting oil all over the engine. Sorry but u got much to practice
RE this part of the video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xKWo6eU9ipM.htmlm9s I believe the instructions are to torque to 25 nm 5 times. I've tried torquing to 30 nm after torquing to 25 and it caused a small leak. Fortunately I had a spare filter and oring to reinstall and after trying the method of applying 25 nm of force 5 times, I've never had a leak.
5.7 litres with filter, always change filter when changing oil, Castrol Edge LL 5W/30 is the only factory approved oil for this car, it states this on the oil filler cap...
