This is great thank you. I was looking for a nut to undo. Didn’t realise it was the hex bolt I was looking at. Now managed to drain some of the oil after over filling so thank you.
You should replace oil filter before reinstalling the oil drain plug, because there is some old oil in the filter housing that should came out when you remove the oil filter cap.
Great video dude, I wanted to know whether the oil filter was accessible top side, as I use a top side oil extractor. So you video is perfect and showed me the location. Huge thanks for taking the time to make it.
A good thing to do is to take the oil cap off, crack the oil filter first and let it drain into the sump and then drop the oil out of the sump. that way no oil will be left to spill on the alternator. you should also use brake cleaner and clean the filter housing before installing the new filter, not a massive issue but its good practice.
I've done a few oil changes in the engine and I 100% recommend changing the sump plug for a regular bolt rather than the Hex bit type. The stock sump plugs always seem to strip and round off, terrible design. Otherwise, great vid.
Most peoples do the same mastake Why you don't put your 3 l oil in another bottle and then put it direct so you have the not to check everytime if it the right size you need it's simple
Normally after draining there is some oil left in the engine (aprox 500ml+), so putting the same amount in each time might overfill the engine, especially on a small engine. Overfilling the engine is bad. But you are right, if 3l capacity you can fill engine maybe 2.7l and check the dipstick.
I've got a Polo 9N with a 1.6 petrol engine that consumes oil regularly. I know VW says 1l/1000 km is normal, but what's your take on this? Currently at 155.000 km, I've had it since last June and put 10.000 km o it. Using Castrol Edge 5w40 but topping off with Mobil One, same VW spec (I think it's 502).
Fantastic video...was able to change my oil without any problems. Do you have any videos showing how to change the fuel filter on the same model of VW Polo as shown here...??
+Sarah Ince Hi, Im very happy it helped you. I did a fuel filter change, but didn't record it. I will make a video about it, give me a couple of weeks.
+Messed Up Mechanic Cool will look out for it. Out of curiosity, which fuel filter are you using on yours.. looking for a good alternative to original vw overpriced items.
+Sarah Ince I bought it direct from VW parts for 35ish. I would get a good Mann one from EuroCarParts half the price - put your reg in and see if it comes up with this part: 503440979. The location of the filter is under the car on the drivers side and little more than half way back. Check that it looks the same with 3 connections and you should be fine.
+macags20 If you don't mind me adding another answer to that. The 1.2 (mine is a 1.2 12V, 47kW) engines have a timing chain, but they have an engineering fault. VW put one of the tensioners too small (that problem was addressed and in about 2005 VW replaced the tensioners with longer ones on new cars). What happens is with time as the chain extends and has a little more room to "play", it could happen that it slips and goes out of sync. It happened to me a month after I purchased it, I reversed it into the parking lot, shut off the engine and depressed the clutch as the car was still moving back. That caused the engine to turn a little in reverse and the chain got bundled up between one of the gears and the tensioner. Later when I tried to start the car it spinned and skipped half a rotation on one of the gears. :-S You can find a lot written about that problem and a few YT videos also. The good news is that the engine is constructed so that usually the valves don't hit the piston. There is a repair kit from VW (I think it was original VW stuff) which contains the chain, the new style longer tensioner and I believe two gears. I am not sure what else, my mechanic purchased and replaced all of that. The set cost a little over 100€. At the same time he replaced the oil pump (an extra 25€ or so), since everything was already apart. Add to that a few hours of labor and that is that. It's not supposed to repeat itself due to the longer tensioner, but I am always careful from now on. :-)
+Nixxomatic Fantastic post and very informative! I have read alot about the timing chains going bad...Im guessing that with small amount chain slack the small tensioners cant keep the chain taut? I doubt you will have any problems in future as long as you keep the oil clean & use right grade of oil. A few questions if you dont mind.. Did you get any symptoms after you bought the car? Any engine codes? Also you have any links for those YT vids?
+Nixxomatic Hi Nixx, when you had that problem with the chain, did the engine had a strange tick metallic sound? I have this sound on my Polo 2004 9N 1.2l 47kw, and have no idea what is with that ticking sound, metallic, like metal hit metal.
Wow another reason why NOT to use long life oil .. that dirty oil is circulating too long in the engine. I think regular 5w30 oil and 10K miles (15k Km) is better
+123kasabian Hey, glad it helped. The tube going down the dipstick was 5mm (outer diameter) nylon tubing. I used nylon as it is more heat resistant so I can change the oil when the engine is warm. You can get them really cheap on ebay etc. If you don't mind spending money I would get the "Sealey 6.5L Manual Vacuum Oil and Fluid Extractor". Its just easier..
My car needs this oil change, so I called up Johnson's VW - guess what they quoted be for having this done? - £246 + VAT - I replied to them and said "you're daylight robbers" - then the women on the phone put me through to customer services!!
Great video. Do you recommend 5w30 weight oil over 5w40 for UK year round driving? I have a 2004 polo 1.2 6v with only 37,000 miles on it. I'm thinking of using Castrol edge 5w30 LL (fully synthetic) for its upcoming change. Good shout?
Depends, if you do like 70% of miles on the motorway or live in the countryside 5w30 is ok. But if your driving is in the city or doing short journeys then go with 5w40 fully synthetic
The 5w30 LongLife oils basically let you do loads of miles between changes (almost 2x). Neither are better or worse for motorway driving or engine wear. I would go for a 5w40 seeing as you probably dont do lots of miles and change the oil every 9kmiles/or every year
Okay! the 40 bit won't flow significantly differently - i.e. slower so starve areas of oil compared to 30? I'm overthinking this I know! Thanks for your time, seems the 5w40 is a good shout, I wouldn't want to do a ridiculous amount of miles between changes anyway.
I cant find a 5mm pump anyway have you any suggestions? I bought one and even though it said 5mm in the description it came as an 8, can you buy thinner tubes from somewhere?
+ThatGuyNamedScott. C Hey, yeah I did use a new crush washer @ 2:30 , but for this car you don't normally get one included with the filter you have to buy it separately, its annoying, I got mine from the dealer
I used about 2.5 - 2.7 litres. Apparently its capacity is 3 litres but I think 0.5l usually stays in the engine. You can check the capacity of your car if you go on Castrol's website and look for the oil selecto......select your car and gives you the capacity.
