VW T3: Generic ignition system info (bits) 

You know these engines very well Thomas and you explained it with enough detail that anyone can understand it. Great video! 😀👍

Very nice of you to take time out to provide this info! Thanks!

Great information mate this will certainly help people out there congratulations on the 30K mate well deserved

Nice by-pass test. Your a vw guru. Thomas you have great passion to help people. Just hang in there. I'm getting ready to do G.M. training on the Internet. Going to complete modules and get certified in Chicago Illinois. On top of my Indiana Certified Emissions Repair Technician Course.

You explained that very well Thomas.

Should be helpful to a lot of people, good info

Good video Brother thanks four4 the lesson.

Great video!

excelente video amigo, saludos

You are the T3 Yoda 😎

I have an '84 Westy that originally had a 1.9L, but after sucking a valve, we recently rebuilt to a 2.1L. I've been chasing down an intermittent engine cut-out gremlin for some time. Trouble-shooting with the engine running, I wiggled the wiring to each module in the engine bay, and the coil, of course, and think I finally narrowed it down to possible corrosion in the connectors at the green idle stabilization module. I was able to recreate the engine cut-out by wiggling the wiring to that module once. I disconnect the connectors and cleaned the pins and sockets on both the module and the connectors with appropriate sized wire brushes. I reconnected the connectors to the module and took off on a short (10 mile) test run, including climbing hills up to 500 ft elevations above sea level. So far, it hasn't cut out, but I'll need to take it on a few more test runs before trusting it on long trip. I heard you state that the idle stabilization module itself could have issues, so I was wondering if I could bypass it without negatively affecting anything else? ... I do not have the module you showed on the 2.1L's engine.

Hey Thomas, first off, your videos are friggin' awesome, huge thanks for the detailed info to help us all keep these old steeds on the road! Question: It appears I have a bad Tach or at least a bad Tach circuit which is likely leading to a no start issue. I have had a few incidents where my 1990 T3 just starts to lose power and when I pull over, it stalls and no longer runs / starts (1 of these incidents recently on a trip with my entire family / two kids and fully loaded rig). Running through the checklist you noted works well to get it back on the road. One thing I noticed over the course of a few years and certainly recently is that when this issue was happening I can hear some wires shorting out behind the instrument cluster. This last event appears to have likely fried either the tach or at least the voltage stableizer as the tach, temp and fuel gauges no longer work since I got it running. I have already replaced the VS a few years ago as I had problems with this before and that helped for a year or two. Got any Ideas / thoughts on the best path to isolating the real issue here? Should I simply try and source a new tach or instrument cluster? Or could this be bad wiring harness somewhere in the line or poor VS replacement? Any feedback would be greatly helpful!

Great information, I have a problem with my T3 Vanagon (Syncro), it does not start up, the engine cranks and I picked up the fuel pump is not engaging when the ignition switch is turned to the ON position. I've done a test on the fuel pump using a 9V battery to see if the fuel pump is not faulty and found that it's in working condition. I've tested the two relays for the ECU and the Fuel Pump and they both working, I've even gone as far as replacing the relays. I've swapped in two extra ECU's, fuel pump still does not switch on. I've done the test to see if the fuel pump engages when you bypass the ECU on the relays, and the fuel pump runs. But even with the fuel pump running having bypassed the ECU, the car still does not start. I've traced the wiring and made sure there's continuity, but still can't seem to find out what's causing the fuel pump not to kick on, when the ignition switch is turned to on and why the car is not starting up. I'm even thinking of swapping out the loom with a loom from a donor van and see if the loom is not having a bad connection.

I have a known working idle control valve, but in the van it is not vibrating. any pointers as to relationship to the idle control unit?

Hello great video ..I don't have power at the distributor center plug ...any suggestions an thanks

Hi Thomas, Great video thks for taking the time and effort to do it. I have some problems with my Wan.Would you please give and advice? the problem is the following: Vanagonn Digifant 2.1L.The first 5-10 minutes the engine runs smooth but high RPM about 1300 (cold start). Black smoke on the exhaust and rough running to die after that time, the engine gest ok when disconnecting the Temp II sensor but with high Idle. I changed de Temp. II sensor and checked for wiring integrity; the voltage at the connector unplugged 10.5V. checked positif wire to body gnd: batterie voltage, negatif to +B on alternator : batterie voltage) but still the same. I'm trying to get O2 scope signal. not sure if I'm connecting it correctly. Positif to the third cable and neg. to body gn (fixed lean). checked Heater voltage KOEO at the other two wires: battery volatage (seams ok). Heater Current KOER 1.3 Amps. not sure if ok??? I changed spark plugs, spark plugs cables, cap and rotor, checked the ramp and current of the primary coil (3.5 Amps) seams to be good. I checkd the clicks on the throtle body, (closed at idle open right after and closes at max) seams to be good. checked the voltage on the MAF. Supply is there across pin 3 and 4. voltage varies at pin 2 but not at pin 1 (not sure if ok)??? Do you have an idea or something else that I can do? Thank you in advance Alex

I have a 1.9 which has no spark at the moment. I have no 12v at the 3 pin plug to the distributor. What would cause this in your experience? I've changed the ignition module today without success. Appreciate any help you can offer. Thanks

Hey Thomas, Any advice on setting timing if my van does not have a tachometer? I have a photo tach but not sure where to attach the reflective tape. Ive been guessing what 3000 rpm is... ugh. Got it close but its still not timed perfect so I am getting bad starts unless i give it tons of gas and i have poor throttle response. Replaced Coil, Distributor/Hall, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, injectors, and all fuel lines. New spark plugs and wires. New vacuum lines. I assume its just the timing but without a tachometer I am not sure how to set it to 35degrees at 3000rpm. Many thanks. Eric

Were is the cold start system on 83 1.9 I am getting flashing temperature light on cluster and no start I can smile lots fuel