Jesse, thank you for this information, it's incredibly helpful. I'm in CT. If anyone in your service area sees your video's, I'd be shocked if you do not get their business in two seconds.
So, i have a quote from a local remediator in the Tampa area and the guy came by to look at the house and what he thinks he'd need to install before i watched this video. But after i received the quote i asked him about PFE testing and his reply was "No, that pressure field testing doesn't provide much info for slab on grade, no basement, typical Florida soils that we have in this area." Does this make sense to you or is it a red flag?
It will be interesting to hear how this works for you. The EPA has done studies and found sealing alone is not an effective method to significantly reduce radon. Keep us posted!
We have a video CE course coming in the spring or summer of 2023 that covers a new method we have started using. We cover our old way of doing PFE in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tM7sXZ0nLOk.html
Thank you, Jesse! I had an inspection on a house we are purchasing done by someone who turned out not to be licensed here in New York. And the result was very high (20!), so we will definitely be installing a mitigation system. My question now, though, is whether they should then have followed up by testing the soil or water. We paid $200 for the inspection.
You're welcome! I’m sorry for your trouble. Here in Minnesota, we test the air for radon. However, radon in water is not an issue here. I'm not sure if that's the case where you live. You can always do a DIY radon test for the air or water.
After having watched several of your videos, I am convinced that you are the only person I want to do my radon mitigation. Do you think you could come to southwest Pennsylvania? 😊
Am in Boston MA I wished I have seen this video before I hired a company without checking or asking the right questions with very negative results spent a fortune 😡
Thanks for the video. I'm a bit confused about the radon levels after mitigation and what is considered safe. The WHO says levels should be under 2.7 pCi/L. The testing units say if you are between 2 and 4 pCi/L you should consider mitigation. My state's website says you should mitigate if you are over 4 pCi/L and the contractors I've looked at say they guarantee to get you under 4pCi/L. If under 2 pCi/L is considered "safe", what good is getting to just under 4 pCi/L going to do? Currently I'm at around 3.2 pCi/L and I'm not sure what I should do. I'd appreciate any advice. Thanks.
Since there’s no “safe” level of radon, a radioactive gas that may cause lung cancer, we feel like it’s best to get it as low as possible. The lower your radon, the lower your risk. Everyone’s risk tolerance is different. I would mitigate anything above 2.0. However, I’d probably change my view on that if my wife worked in the basement or if I had kids.
@AmericanRadonMitigation Thanks for replying. I'd like to get my radon level under 2, but contractors say they only guarantee to get it below 4, and I'm at 3.2. Do you see my dilemma here? I'm sure this service is going to be expensive. I am hesitant to pay for a service that isn't going to fix the problem. Out of curiosity, can you tell me the average price your company charges for a mitigation system install. I live in a 1.5 story house with a basement. It is about 75 years old.
@@MeR-md1jq I wouldn't get too hung up on the guarantee. Go with someone who knows how to do pressure field extension testing, has solid reviews, you feel comfortable with, and can clearly explain their approach. We don't discuss pricing on RU-vid anymore since some potential customers have expected the price to remain the same as a comment five years old. A company that offers a more in-depth approach should certainly charge more than one that's in and out in a few hours.
All your videos seem to focus on houses that have a concrete slab over the ground. Do you work on houses that have a crawl space, and then a plastic barrier with a 4-in pipe connected to a radon fan providing the suction? We have a system like that but it doesn't seem to be working very well.
We don't do too many crawl space encapsulation jobs. Thankfully, most homes in Minnesota have basements with an occasional crawlspace under an addition. You'll want to be sure that all the seams are taped and the edges of your vapor barrier are secured and sealed to your foundation walls. You want your vapor barrier to be as airtight as possible. Ensuring that it is will likely help you get the results you're looking for.
What do you think about adding an HRV system instead of the system with a fan if you have a crawl space that isn't able to be sealed off properly? Do you have experience with HRV systems? Thanks!
