I recently used crown fastflow water based gloss and had to give it 2 coats would you recommend the Leyland over crown, great videos, I'm only starting to switch to water base for interiors as customers are asking for it more, it seems to keep its whiteness a lot longer than oil based, served my apprenticeship late 80s then left painting for about 25 years, so much has changed in the way of different paints, the methods you use are the same as I was taught by the old pros, love learning about foam and caulk etc, dont think I ever used it back then 👍
Thanks, have not used the crown fast flow yet but water based gloss is difficult to get right. Sometimes it acts like silk emulsion which can look terrible till it fully dries. Always paint allow to dry before making your mind up about a second coat.
I just done a grey room try to follow your advice touched the wall in after painting skirting it now looks darker than the rest What have i done and how do i get out of it thanks.
Great job as always, thank you. A question: when applying water based gloss on previously solvent gloss areas, would you ever use shellac paint as base coat, like zinsser, then water gloss?
Just my opinion but if your were using water over oil I would use a waterbase primer like zinser bullseye to seal over and your then keeping with the waterbase system.
@@robbennett9631 I have used zinsser BIN (shellac base) on solvent gloss and applied water based paint after, and that seems to hold up. The only thing is, that BIN is a nightmare to paint with because it dries instantly
@@PaintingandDecorating it's a pity you don't tell us how you use gloss paint...can you use it straight out of the tin...do you have to water it down do you have to mix it.....
After you denibbed the undercoat, you can spray the skirting with a light mist of water before putting on the gloss. Works a treat with the waterbased stuff. Been doing it for years. Nothing too heavy...just a light mist of water
Would not want to get water on the finished wall, I can see how it would work possibly. My only concern is that the undercoat may work up in places especially on edges.
@@richardkeeler6422Water based paints have been applied using pure bristle since Roman times. Synthetic are okay and we do use some. Personally I prefer natural bristle more control and allow speed of application and fine laying off. Synthetic cheap to make less control and can flick paint, and the filaments are weak easily thrown out of shape.
Can I ask if your using leyland quick dry gloss why wouldn’t you use the leyland acrylic primer and keep the same system? Or do you find the armstead much better?
I find I can get a nice finish with water based top coats if they go over a nice smooth previous coat. Over an oil primer they look well. But there is no doubt about it , all water based paints seem to go soft on handrails and come off almost like chewing gum with the grease. They seem hard until a year or so of grease is built up and they eventually go soft. For that reason I have stuck to oil. Would love to go completely water based but I just don’t think they are quite good enough. I here a lot of people talking about Benjamin Moore waterbased paints as tho it’s the holy grail but I have seen this go soft in areas too. In my opinion oil can’t be beaten. If u get a slightly off white in oil based it will never really yellow
Hi Stuart for the handrails using a waterbase product I’ve used water based varnish over the top on the handrail and it gives it a lot more wipe ability works a treat… so if your using waterbase satin use a waterbase satin varnish same for gloss etc so you still get the same finish that you want on the wood 😊
If you find a stockist locally, Tikkurila Helmi is great gear, best I've found but the gloss on Leyland is superb. Also, a tub of Floetrol was a revelation for thinning paint and keeping it open in hot weather. Somehow much better than water. Your brush is giving me heebie-jeebies! I can't use natural bristle any more. Hamilton acrylic all the way. Nice to see you - All the best.
Been watching for months now and have picked up loads of excellent advice, thank you. Would like a quick bit of advice if possible. I have fitted new doors all over my house over the last couple of years and am now ready to paint them. All are factory primed. I have tried water based undercoat and gloss on one and the finish is terrible, flashed all over the place and brush marks everywhere. Lost confidence in water based so could I just sand lightly and use a decent oil based gloss directly into the factory primer to avoid the time involved with oil based undercoat drying times. Have 17 doors to do.
Sorry for late reply, yes you could but it may soak in a little losing some shine. And it won't be as durable. Cutting corners is no good in the long run.
Nice lines, solid job 👍...you may habe been better with a synthetic filament brush though, as the pure bristle brushes can go a bit floppy in water based
I appreciated this video bc after an OD on VOCs and oil-based paint, I just will not use it (durability notwithstanding). Oil continues to release VOCs over time, and then yellows. Water-based paint only for us.
Love your videos, just started repainting our gloss covered doors that have yellowed - I like the Leyland water based gloss you used on this video, I am struggling to find the undercoat you used locally, is there a different brand you ask recommend? For the doors that have oil gloss on, do I just sand and use the leyland water based gloss or is the undercoat essential? I want to make sure it’s a good job. Many thanks, Simon
I've been using the waterbased satin finish,and on a warm day it's drying almost as soon as it touches the surface,meaning I'm leaving brushmarks everywhere - any tips to avoid this please?
I have forgotten to wipe the runs from diluted PVA just before filling a crack with foam. The runs dried like that by the time I saw them the following day. How do I get rid of them?
We do use water based finishes but we always ask the customer what they would prefer. If they have always had oil gloss it can be a big change on how it looks on quality. Have used water based satin in a lot of my house and its good but not hard wearing enough for handrails. Thanks.
When painting the skirting boards I use a paint guard or a piece 1m length of upvc facia board and tuck it down between the carpet and skirting then just wipe it with some wet wipes as I go along
if you need to get paint off the carpet like you did, folding a wetwipe over a wide filling knife give greater accuracy, no risk of touching your paint finish
I agree, if only to show the customer you are protecting their carpet. He is using white on white so he doesnt need to go all the way down. I try to tuck it under with a wide filling knife