*Great with keeping my 1st floor **Fastly.Cool** . Had a little struggle getting it to sit properly in my small window but once I got it situated it works perfectly.*
Purchased: August 2023 - still works GREAT!I ru-vid.comUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn live in a studio and during the summer it gets scorching hot - really old building with no ac units. I can’t express how EASY it was to install. This unit has been a life savior during the summer and some days during other seasons where it can still be a bit warm at night. In this small place is my friend, a husky, poodle mix and myself. We need AC - lolI don’t use the dehumidifier option - I’m not sure if it will leak in my house, since I did not install the small draining hose that came with it. May look into it late but I don’t worry about much humidity in the apartment. I don’t understand why the negative reviews since all things mentioned, I personally did not find issues with. Definitely worth it!
As a HVACR tech this will def. work and will help icing up of the evap coil during extreme humidity...I did something similar to my moms rig about 10 yrs ago and cured her iced evap coil issues, IE more air flow and more efficiency and mom's happy!!
The addition reduces the friction loss in the supply ducting, delivering more air. Because the supply ducts are built into the ceiling assembly, they serve as a radiator, cooling the roof assembly and heating the air. By increasing the velocity through the ducts, there is less time for this exchange to take place, meaning the air temperature at the supply registers is closer to the temperature it started out at when it left the evaporator. The best way to avoid this loss of efficiency is to reconfigure the AC so that the ducting is bypassed, and the cool air is discharged directly into the room. Hats of to this guy for coming up with a simple method of substituting a laminar flow for a turbulent one. In residential AC we extend the plenum about one foot past the ducting to provide an air cushion, but there isn't enough space in an RV to do that
Omg, thank you for this video, we were sold, ordered immediately and just installed today. The difference is truly amazing and we are so happy!!! The stuff that blew out of the ductwork was proof that it was doing absolutely nothing before and the sound level, wow, we can now hold a normal conversation which was impossible before this!!!
One installation tip: When inserting the unit and it seems to get stuck, remove it and use a solution of dish washing liquid and water to coat the foam and the outside edge of the duct inserts, the re-insert. Makes it a lot easier.
I watched a bunch of installation videos and had my AC ready to go when the package arrived. I had it installed in about 40 minutes. The only problem I had was sliding the foam into place because it was very tight around the plastic duct inserts. Mixed up some dish washing liquid, put a light coating on both the foam and the inserts and it just slid right in. Perfect! Buttoned it up and ready for the big test. I have a wind meter and before the install I measured between 7 -9 mph at both ends of my trailer from the ceiling vents. After the install I measured between 18 and 21mph! So breezy it blew the install sheet right off the table! Now my wife is worried it will be getting too cold in the trailer with the AC on. My RV is a 30 foot Starcraft Autumn Ridge travel trailer with a 15k Coleman Air Conditioner. Can’t wait for the summer heat to really try it out. It IS a great product! Thanks for the video! Lee A. Kingman, AZ
@@Here-2-Learn We were in Las Vegas the weekend they set a high temp record of 117 degrees. Our AC maintained a inside temp of 79 degrees. Last summer we almost bought a second AC; this summer has been much more enjoyable.
If you don't have this product, buy it! Being new to camping one thing I noticed right away was the poor airflow in my rv when I was remodeling it. I had already started thinking of building a duct to push the air through the vents to create better flow. My son had bought this system for his coleman mach and then bought a newer camper and removed the rv system before he sold his old one. He gave it to me because mine has the coleman mach. I too was skeptical but a quick install completely changed my mind! You will see dramatic air flow increases that you can feel flow 3 feet from the vents! The camper now has an even temperature throughout and in every room. Let me put it this way, if I ever upgrade to a new camper this would be the first purchase I will make to improve the ac. Also, I have zero affiliation with the company that makes these. This product works!
You are going to use far, far less energy running the AC, have fewer hours on every component of the system, and the system will be struggling a lot less. This is a brilliant product. This is what happens when the original designers get lazy and make a perfect opportunity for someone to identify a problem and fix it. Well done, Richard.
I have been modifying Dometic ACs in similar fashion for well over a decade. The 'supercool' feature on Dometic units prevented most of the air from ever reaching the vents. By eliminating that feature, I was able to restore flow to ACs and increase the efficiency with similar results. My personal RV was a 31' unit with a 15k + 13.5k unit, both ducted and had supercool feature. During peak times in Florida, South Alabama, and South Georgia, I had to run both on high just to keep the rig cool. If I was at a campground with only 30a service, then we would have to deal with the RV being hot. Once I modified the units, I was able to cool the unit off using both, then maintain using only the 15k on the low fan setting at 72°. This meant a cool RV even at 30a parks!
We just purchased a 2023 GD Imagine 2670mk with 2 Furrion AC units. We just took it out to Branson Mo. on its 1st weekend out. 87 degrees, 59% humidity. And I'll tell ya what, they've made zero improvements on install quality of the ac units. We'll definitely be buying 2 of these for sure! Thank you for the great video!
A little late to the party, by just 2 years. 😂 This video popped up on our recommended so we watched it. Definitely ordering a set for 2023 GD 2670mk tomorrow. This is an awesome idea.
Watched this on another channel. I installed in 2 out 3 of my A/C units. GD 376THS. The plastic pieces were already installed in mine. I do get better air flow and its a little quieter. Will do the last one tomorrow.
Grand Design installed our RV Airflow upside down for one of our A/Cs. Thanks for the video, as the dealer was giving me a service date 30 days out. Simple fix.
I just installed two today. One was easy the other was a BITA. I had to move the unit around a bit but you can do it from the inside of the camper. After the install in pretty short order the camper was down to 71. I wasn't a terrible day so it wasn't a great test but the airflow is a lot better. I'm a techie guy and can tell you that the way this thing is made it sends the airflow directly into the ductwork. I can feel the difference. Yes, you could probably make something on your own that does about the same thing but I'm getting old so I spent the money on the kit. So far I'm happy.
I am converting an 8.5 x 20’ enclosed car hauler into a Kart racing trailer. Hauls all our karts and gear to the track and once unloaded is becomes our “drivers lounge”. I wanted AC. Shopped for RV AC’s and wasn’t happy with my options. High energy needs and high $. Ended up with a 12000 btu mini split (heat pump). Installed the outdoor condenser on the trailer tongue. Cost $750. Install DIY (fairly easy). Super cold in the trailer with the mini split. Most importantly. Mini split energy use is so efficient I can run it with my 1250 watt inverter generator!
Cool story bro....My question is if yours works so good, why on earth are you watching videos about improving airflow on a RV AC unit? Seems very odd to me......
These systems push air not only through the ducts, but at the unit location as well, the CFM calculation must include the subtraction of that point after the installers diverts all the AC into the ducts..
Exactly! That’s where the new “extra” flow is coming from! He didn’t measure the amount of air coming through the unit vents. He simply redirected the flow to the outer vents, not increase the A/C efficiency or capacity. I’d love to know where he gets his BTU values. Probably the same thin air!
When the vent is closed at the unit it is directed to the roof vents. I dont get any flow from my unit. Air goes in at the return but all air comes out of the vents. I achieved similar results with proper tapin to help flow and what a huge difference. How is it some commentators cant see the benifit of this? Air flow is airflow and turbulence is turbulence. SMH
@@PlanetNoble Ehh, the "air dump" vents on the unit itself were clearly closed when he was doing the initial measurements, so it is an apples to apples comparison. I don't have one of these things (yet), but there are PLENTY of satisfied customers who didn't get theirs for free, like I'm sure the Hampy Campers did.
@@brentd The factory “dump” air vents don’t seal off flow completely. They’re just simple plastic shutters which is fine since their design purpose is simply to redirect some air to the other vents. This additional flow must be accounted for in his analysis. The aftermarket product diverts more/all flow to the other vents, making the cfm values higher. I think the biggest improvement he did was to open the taped ports to the outer vents. This is where his flow was choked rather than his turbulence explanation. Plenums are widely used to cushion the incoming flow and allow it to pass more evenly into the system but do not block flow as he suggests.
@@PlanetNoble With all due respect, the air dump vents, when closed, let through an *extremely* insignificant amount of air. The inch and a half of tape covering the edge of his ductwork coupled with that insignificant amount of airflow gained by blocking off the air dump channel is not going to create anywhere near a doubling of the airflow like that which was demonstrated by the readings….even if those readings were wildly erroneous since there’s no way those measurements were actually in CFMs. But as has already been said, the unit of measure makes no difference as long as the same yardstick was used before and after. Like I already said, you can choose to believe this video or not, but I’ve read dozens of other non-biased reviews from people who actually had to pay for the product and install it themselves that lead me to believe that the claims are true.
Probably my more like 30% but yes, it is shut off. However, without the RV Airflow system you won’t be able to open that up because there is a panel that “separates” the intake from the supply which is why part of the supply ducting is covered.
@@HampyCampers You can always move that panel yourself and either re-glue it or use a foam insulation panel from one of the big box stores. You can see after he pushes the rest of the tape in to open up your duct that there's still plenty of horizontal space between the edge of your duct and the air intake above to move the middle panel over. That's just if you aren't ready to make the plunge for one of the RV Airflow systems just yet, of course. I've done a lot of work sealing up my unit due to the poor condition the factory left it in. I plan on putting one of these in myself before the year is up.
We have 2 units and usually just close the ducts and use the max Air mode. As long as you set the bedroom slightly lower than the living area we can get ours as cold as we want. In full sun and 90s +. It looks like a good idea but it appears to eliminate the air right out of the bottom of the unit. Depending on the price for styrofoam it may be worth a try. But opening the ducts probably did most of it
I think when he opened or pushed the tape back that helped. I would love to see if he could make the turbulance go away but still keep the blow down feature. That would be the best of both worlds.
Biggest problem with camper AC units is regardless how expensive your unit is they are thrown together as fast as possible, the tape job proves this. Seams like a good solution, wish you would have shown the air testing.
I'm in New Mexico now but was in Phoenix Arizona, during 115 degrees, just get a mini-split they can't be beaten, people waste their money on all the other stuff. 115 degrees and my 5th wheel stayed 72, and it was super quiet. Can't be beaten...Oh, and they are cheaper to replace than roof units as well.
I notice he had to open a few vents during airflow. That would have actually increased the before airflow if 3 were shut. One thing regards airflow. On your unit how much air came out of the unit bottom originally? Was that measured?? The idea makes sense.
I did same thing with diy modification for $10 in less than 30 minutes. 20 mph at vent in front bedroom and 25 mph at vent in living room. People have been doing similar diy mod for atleast a decade.
Genius! This is what you call innovative thinking in America. This is why we need to keep our republic the way it is. Even if you aren’t having cooling troubles, this should get done. I certainly will do it when I get my rv.
Ya mine is the original ac in my 1978 pace arrow...it has 2, I only use one, it will freeze you out on low cool. I also cover my windows with Mylar blankets
I don't think there is any question that your data is wrong - you are not measuring cfm. However, I don't doubt there is a significant improvement in cooling because, as you have repeatedly said in response to the comments, regardless of units the numbers doubled. BUT, the one undisputed fact is that the price for this block of Styrofoam, a couple of plastic collars and some sticky tape is almost $200.00. That is amazing. I've always said that a fair price is what a willing buyer is willing to give to a willing seller. I'm sure he's finding willing buyers (or he would lower the price) - but I'm not going to be one of them.
If your unit is Dometic, don't see this working with Colman Mach 3 units as the control cannister is squarely in the way of the Styrofoam additionally these units use a compression gasket, removing the mount bolts after compression and not replacing the gasket on the roof is a recipe for trouble.
Single pane or double in that coach ? Clear bubble wrap over portions of windows you do not need or want clear visibility will also help. Tis option you installed sounds good...thanks
Our Rockwoods ac actually get our trailer to cold even when it’s 95degrees outside and we didn’t get the 15000 btu upgrade. Azdel walls and ceiling are better insulation than the fiberglass they put into GD’s. I’ll check our ducts out to see if they covered up part of them like in the video but with Rockwood quailty those Amish builders do a bang up job.
I am shocked the owner of the company didn't even mention the low side gains (uses all your filter versus only half) and why this is needed (center divider falls over etc).
for $180 ill just make some 3D print designs and go from there. All is doing is redirecting flow straight to the raceway rather than hitting a dead stop. As someone else said as well, cardboard, some paper and tape is all you need.
Turning vanes work a treat. This is not new knowledge, it is simply an elegant solution to a half assed install from the factory. As more and more rv’s are built to be primary residences, install quality should improve. The only reason manufacturers doo such a poor job, is that the product is seen as for recreational use exclusively.
So far since I put the rv airflow in mine grand design, it hasn’t cooled my bedroom. I set to 75 and it runs constantly and won’t cool down to that. Followed the instructions step by step.
Put a small shade over the outside condenser unit so it does not have to deal with the radiant heat absorbed from the sun. That should make it cooler in the housing and easier for the condenser to get ride of the heat the refrigerant is moving from the interior.
Yes clearing the tape certainly helped! But, you can't clear the tape without the Airflow insert because the tape separates the supply and return air sides without the insert.
@@HampyCampers great video and product!! I guess only downside would be that the manual dumps no longer work? Hey but the trade-off is worth it for better airflow through the ducted vents! Lets hope that the cardboard ducting and foil tape with handle it! I once inspected the "duct work" of my 65K plus Grand Juction will an scope and was shock to find they were nothing more than cardstock ducts similar to a cereal box! Not only that but in many places the box-work had come untaped and I was blowing cold air into the ceiling cavity!
@@yeahthatshouldwork I suspect the same with my Cyclone. Everything else is that cheaply made, stands to reason the ducting was slapped together as well. Most of my vents barely have a “baby’s breath” worth of air movement currently. I’m tempted to try this for that reason to see if things improve. Update: I took the time and created a template out of cardboard that fit the chamber to a tee under the squirrel cage output. Then laid it flat on a 2X3 ft. sq of sheet metal that HD had in the ducting section. $12.95 or so…. Laid the cardboard section out on it and traced the outline, then marked the “fold” lines and created the desired shape outlined here in this forum. It fit really well and pushes all avail. air to the vents. Blocked the ducting leading to the garage as I’ve never needed to cool that area and it’s really made a difference. We’ve had a spell of 97 degree heat with monsoon humidity and on my first run, I turned it on and then came back to it an hour later and the trailer was down right chill! Had it set to 76 and it was at that temp. Bumped it up to 78 and it maintained it all night like that. In summary, it works.
Hey Guy's Thanks for the share of information on this Product, I liked the way the air deverter looked right from the off, I could tell it would not only do better at putting the pressure side of the air into the ducts but also get the return air back up into the the ac to be re cooled. I will be checking out this product for myself.
I agree wholeheartedly that the air flow volume is improved with better flow ducting as your device or some of the other hand fashion solutions would also do. Reducing the static pressure on the blower and minimizing turbulence are all pluses. My problem with your video is the numbers. To move 6000 CFM at the static of an RV ducting system would likely required a 5HP blower. If the flow doubled to 12,000 CFM the static would also go up and the blower HP required to move that volume would be more than double also. Your device would improve the standard operation, but your numbers are pie in the sky, no where close to reality. The 6000 CFM number is more than twice the flow typically in a 3000 square foot home.
The numbers are completely wrong. If the unit is 12,000 BTU then the nominal air flow for the unit would be approximately 400CFM as a good rule of thumb is typically 400CFM per 1 ton of cooling. These units typically have a dual shafted 1/3HP motor that move roughly 350-500 CFM with the blower wheel that comes standard. The numbers that are given at the end of this video 6,000+ CFM and 12,000 + CFM are laughable and are clearly either someone confusing cooling capacity (BTU) with CFM(Air volume and movement), intentional misrepresentation of numbers, or a lack of understanding of the basic principles and measurements of air conditioning. 6000CFM would be the airflow typically associated with a 15 ton air conditioner and 12,000 CFM would be the nominal CFM for a 30 Ton unit. Systems those size are used on shopping malls another commercial spaces, not trailers. If you are going to specialize in "air flow" issues, you should probably make sure the numbers you use to brag about your work aren't horribly inaccurate and total and complete nonsense. But what do I know, I only worked in HVAC for 20+ years for 4 different major AC manufacturers. For a number of those years a large part of my job was design build, plan and spec, and working directly with both installing contractors and mechanical engineers, so accuracy of calculations and specifications are pretty important.
This seems great and looks to work well but what about a Coach that does not have the plenum access in the Coach? (The Square white plastic piece) Mine is Ducted, One side is return and other side entry but its horrible, can hardly feel air out of any of the vents
Those ducts run through a hot roof. Check the air temp at the unit and at the air outlets. It will be not nearly as cool. My solution was to make a pass through for the air to come directly down into the RV. This hugely improved the cooling. You don't want to stand right under the A/C and if you don't like drafts, you won't want to be near that plume of air coming down, but the cool-down went from 2 hours to 30 minutes.
You will feel cooler faster, but you haven’t cooled the attic and as soon as you then the AC off the attic will radiate it’s heat out into your living space. With the insert you’ll not only feel cooler, but you’ll actually be cooling the interior of your attic preventing that radiation. May take marginally longer, but the efficiency is unparalleled. .
The concept is there, and also proven. I think the numbers are in m/s not cfm. I can say that directing the air into ductwork works as I have done mine. I just used different design and materials.
Sheldon Dedek ... I'm thinking 💭 out loud hear but wouldn't the intake air into the "ducting system" be best served with a direct feed "intake manifold" similar to that on an V-8 engine...??
Not enough room in the ceiling for a 'V-8' - like manifold. Best that can be done is akin to a 2 cyl boxer. This product, and other "home" variations is the equivalent of porting and polishing for flow.
I have a 2006 Montana, and I took off my filter cover and looked up in the ac plenum area. I was amazed at the lack of engineering by the factory guys. Mine has two ducts, one on each side and the cool air has to come straight down, hits the plastic cover, then is distributed into the two ducts. Had I designed the system, I would have turned the ac unit around 180 degrees and brought the two ducts together in the front instead of the sides. I just don't understand why the design can't be more efficient.
Two problems. First: Two things were changed. 1. The air ducts were widened by pushing aside the insulation and 2. the new device was installed. Yet you attribute the improvement solely to the new device. To be more accurate, the initial airflow measurement should have been done AFTER the air ducts were widened but before the device was installed. Second: You can control how much air goes to the vents by means of a simple manual switch on the A/C unit. On a really hot day, you should not send any air through your duct work because it has been heated up by the sun. Instead, turn the manual switch so that all the cool air dumps straight down from the A/C unit.
at 7:18 you can see the divider that was factory install, the tape was to keep air from going out of the supply and right back to the return. he even said that in the video when he asked why it was taped like that.
I don't know what your measuring but I know what you're not measuring and that's CFM.the numbers you quoted are 15 and 30 ton Commercial airflow numbers That system at best total CFM is 400 or 600
@@gilianrampart8514 NO way a 13000 BTUH unit was putting out 6000 BTUH unless it had no fan, and was frozen up and or low on charge .He said "Cubic Feet per minuite" in the video . CFM x temp diff X 1.1 =BTUH so a 600 CFM unit X 20 Degree Temp Diff X1.1 = around 13,000 BTUH or the size of most Dometic and coleman coach units
I'm an eternal skeptic, and shameless DIY'er/Modify'er......these things flat perform. It's rare to get 1/2 of the advertised gains, and this product delivers 100%. It gets HOT for a lot of the year in north Texas, I would not have an RV without these things.
Seeing this just now.. because looking to buy an Eclipse Stellar RV and there is NO air flow into the ducts AT ALL. We pulled the cover and there are no duct holes like this guy showed in the video. Did Eclipse builders just forget to cut the duct openings?
I wish you were able to show tips and tricks for us that have duct-ed AC. There is no big square in the ceiling, only multiple 5" inlet and exhaust holes running down the left and right side of the ceiling. I had the thought to run a plumbers camera in there to look around but have yet to get one.
I appreciate the the video; but the tech does an install never mentioning how that white foam works. Great to know the end result and thats what matters, yet i saw the white foam cover duct passage, so i'm skeptical?
From what I can see this thing totally blocks all air that would normally come directly out of the original A/C cover and redirects all of the air to the ducts. The factory A/C cover has adjustable vents that you can close completely and do basically the same thing for free. Because of the curve that added to the product the redirection is probably a bit more efficient, but the problem is you loose the ability to balance/adjust the air flow between the vents below the A/C and the ducted vents yourself manually. I prefer being able to control that balance myself as the situation requires, i.e. sometimes I don't want the air redirected to the ducts. So for me I would not be interested in this product.
Oh my can you guys not read other comments of actual air flow improvement? Use your eyes: The factory ac cover does the same thing basically for free???? It creates turbulent air!!! Slows down air flow, slows down the cooling of the RV.
Ducted systems should not be sending any air out right below the A/C cover. That is where the return air is being collected. Any conditioned air immediately sucked up the return is just waste.
Sounds like you have a system similar to mine. It’s a Whisper quiet system that only has ducts and the A/C unit is all external. I have the same question!
How does that effect the FULL open vent option when you need to rapid cool by allowing it to dump straight out into the room? This seems to remove that option.
You’re right- it does remove the dump feature. But make no mistake, the dump feature is a wasteful feature as the intake is too close to the supply and as much as 30% of your supply air is sucked right back in without any cooling effect at all. Using the ducting for 100% of air distribution might be slower, but ultimately will result in more complete cooling of the space. Direct dump is inefficient and wasteful.
@@ski3435 you can’t widen the ducts because of the presence of the intake/supply separation baffle which blocks 1/3 of the supply side. The insert eliminates the need for this baffle, therefore allowing the opening of the supply ducts.
@@ski3435 yes- because he removed the baffle. I’m saying- you can’t widen the ductwork like that and maintain function without the insert because normally there is a baffle between the two sides of the unit.
I do some A/C work, I know improving airflow might make it feel better, but I also know slower airflow will remove more humidity. Saying that, if a system is designed to push X amount of CFMs, it should or you will suffer freeze ups on the evaporator coil which in turn kills airflow and produces less cooling. We found this on our brand new camper, last summer it was a really hot day and the A/C would not cool the camper down, just to find restrictions in the A/C duct within the plenum, the coil froze over almost solid stopping airflow which is really bad for these units. I could not find a high pressure cutout on my A/C, this freeze up could of destroyed my compressor if I went out and left that A/C running (GE Unit).
I just purchased a 22' Genesis 2114. I only have the one A/C with no vents. Just the main A/C is where the air comes from. Will this product still work? I don't think I have any other ducting going through my Toyhauler.
In Kansas it was 103° f and my AC would not keep up, I bought $30 worth of that silver bubble insulation and put it over my windows, and my AC was able to keep up just fine. in a world where there are cheaper alternatives, I just think the price of his modification is an uphill battle, I think he could sell these like hotcakes if he priced them at $99.99!!!
@@InfamousElGuapo okay? RVs are built with a low R value in the walls and crappy windows, plus I had a single air conditioner on a 30 amp. I don't understand your comment, I did what was necessary to make the situation work.. what's your point?
@@InfamousElGuapo well I'm an engineer, so I bought some styrofoam at Lowe's and built my own for less than 10 bucks, compared to his $200. I used my anometer to verify I got the same results as his $200 unit. When I was in Key West last week, temperatures were in the 90s. My single 30 amp air conditioner with proper airflow still could not keep up, so I ended up breaking out the silver insulation bubble wrap, good thing I kept it. I was able to keep a crisp 68 the entire time I was there. The root cause is that the r-value on the walls of campers and the windows suck and I simply can't keep up when temperatures go over 90.
This is not a scientific survey. The capture method isn’t supposed to provide the information you’re referring to. What it did do was provide a baseline to quantify the increase in airflow overall. The numbers were double- that’s a fact. Just because they don’t translate into tonnage doesn’t negate the airflow results. We are super impressed with the results.
@@HampyCampers He was suggesting that 6,000 CFM is a lot of air and possibly the units of measure were wrong. I would be very surprised that the fans in those units would be capable of moving double such volumes. Q=m*Cp*delta T , an increase to the m of this equation (mass not volume) does not mean that the delta T (difference in air vs coil temp) will not also change so it is not a 1 for 1 as far as efficiency goes. Either way this does increase the output of the fan, by double, as you have measured. and the higher the circulation the more even the temperature will be across the unit.
Would this work on the Mach 8 series low profile ? All I have is ducting inside the trailer so would assume I would need to have the AC units taken off and this installed under them on the roof ? 2015 Lifestyle 40' 5th wheel with a full body paint job that's BLACK which makes it approx. 20 degrees hotter I'm assuming than regular trailers.
If we were to install this we would need someone to come and help us with it because our a/c and all close up in the ceiling and we have to cut in to the ceiling just to get to the opening inside the trailer because ours is built differently and we do not have anything exposed like in the video and we are in the process and getting our a/c replace
My rv has 100 precent duct work. You can’t see the ac unit at all. Do you have anything to help bring the air out of the vents and into the living space
Yes, I have one of those whisper quiet systems and here in Arizona with the 120+ temps, the a/c runs nonstop and never cools down until the sun starts to go down. I wonder if that would work for this system.
@@anthonynardella8907 maybe add a discharge fan right at the plenum to increase airflow & impingement (how far into the area the air is forced). Happy 118°F. I live in Az too.
What about older Coach's? My 32ft. 02 Damon is still a great Coach and I wouldn't replace it with anything newer just for an upgrade like this...my Coach is already a badass and nothing newer would be an improvement...
@@nunyabusiness6746 I agree. The system in this rig has two a/c's, and run just fine on one, but when you have both running, they are running the same track so you double your cooling power. And having the separate floor heat is great. The whole floor gets nice and warm. Both work fast. On a 102 day they were still pumping out 68 degrees.
I have a jayco 33ft rv with 1 unit, its just not enough to cool it down. Its already plumbed for a second unit but i wanna try this before spending 2k for a 2nd unit?
