We look into the differences between these two decal softeners. We get asked about them a lot in the store. Microsol : www.hobcen.com... Microset : www.hobcen.com... Micro Solvents Holder : www.hobcen.com...
Thank you for sharing and the content. Most folks seem to recommend using both solutions all the time. Microset to prep the surface and when the decal has begun to attach to the surface, apply Microsol on top; The information in the video suggests to only use one or the other pending the shape of the surface the decal is being adhered to. Your video is also consistent with the Microscale website but differs from the majority of the RU-vid community....
that is how I use them also once I noticed that on the bottles, I put the "set" on the surface, with a soaked Q-tip (cotton swab) and then place the deeecal, and then add the "sol" to soften it as most of the slot car body surfaces are curved, grooved, etc, not flat and this seems best for getting them to sit down nice and conform to the shape. I have to try using a soft paint brush to move them around and slide them off the backing paper, have been using my finger, but that has not always worked out well.
I am learning to build better models again, so I bought Micro Sol and used it for decals an a 1/72 plane. I'm impressed at the way it made the decals sink into the panel gaps. Much improvement over the kits I built 25 years ago!
just read the bottle Micro Sol RED bottle Softens Decals to conform to Irregular Surfaces for a "Painted on look" Micro Set BLUE bottle Softens Decals and Improves Adhesion - decal remover so if flat surface just use blue .. if you need to cover panel lines or not flat used red let dry then you can use blue if needed if you want better adhesion
Tried them and dont like them. They have an aggressive action...the last thing you want near delicate decals. For curved, difficult surfaces, i just use warm water and a hair dryer...works perfectly...even when moulding to rivets and crevices.
I've never heard the deck-uhl pronunciation until the last week when I heard a Brit pronouncing it that way in a video. Since, I have heard it several times. I think its some pretentious way of thinking you sound British by saying it that way. Like al-u-mini-um
It is always best, in my experience to put decals on a gloss surface or semi-gloss at a minimum. The flat refers to the paint finish. When applied to flat paint decals will tend to lift and have that "silvering" on the edges. On older models that I did this with I found the decals rubbed off over time and got flaky, even with a clear coat over them. (Bill)
@@hobcen Thanks for clarifying. Haven’t heard that word used in that expression before. Can you put decals straight onto plastic if it looks glossy? Thanks again
@@hobcen I agree with that as I have experienced it often, before discovering Microsol and Microset. Decals on a Hawker Typhoon I built, with my best efforts to detail it up and so on, ruined because the decals just peeled and came off in pieces. It may be more to do putting on Gloss clearcoat, decals and then your preferred clearcoat (matt, satin or gloss), but the results are worth it after all your hard work and skill that you put into it.
off topic strange question .... if i know the scale of something IE 1/2500 and i have the length of the model IE 5 inch how do I fig out how big the thing was in full size???
@@hobcen ty ok note to self scale times model length = real length in inches .. so we will call it 1,041.5 / by 3 to get meters is is just under 350M .. sweet thats about what i was hoping 🙂
