What Are Hookless Bicycle Rims? 7 Things You Need To Know | Cycling Weekly 

It’s like pressfit bottom brackets all over again.

After more than 1000Km on a set of 303 Firecrest with Pirelli´s P ZERO RACE TLR SL? GREAT! (1 visible puncture so far and higher speeds on 100~140Km rides)

im running a good year clincer tyre on my enve 45. been running for about 3 months, mo problem since.

it's stooopid

My recent experience after more than 1000Km on a new set of 303 Firecrest with Pirelli´s P ZERO RACE TLR SL has been GREAT! (only 1 visible puncture so far and higher speeds on 100~140Km rides).

in my experience and beliefs that comfort makes you fast since you get less tired and undetectable body muscle fatigue in longer rides.

Latex tubes the way to go makes more sense to me than hookless

I think that old type of hookless is quite different. Modern tubeless tyres have a bead which doesn’t stretch. To be honest with modern tyres on tubeless rims, it’s more obvious when they seat and once the bead passes the tubeless “shelf” and seats into the bead seat it will make a pop and it’s perfectly seated pretty much every time. On older rims without this shelf or bead seat (hookless or not) quite often I’ve you have to do it by eye and with a bit of elbow grease

You'll love them - comfort, speed and grip.👍 And added puncture protection, with the right tyres and sealant. However, so as to not sour the experience, just make sure you practice putting in a tube! 👍

After 30yrs of more traditional cycling, I'm considering changing to tubeless and getting Zipp 303 S fitted to my new bike. Is it too much of a leap though?

@@keithwarburton9610 Not at all. Lots of positives, and any possible negatives can be avoided/mitigated. Just go with recommend TLR tyres and sealant, watch some vids and practice getting them on and off. With the right combo, you'll find them v.easy to mount/unmount and even repair. I find Hutchinsons fusions tlr to be v.nice indeed.

Have now ridden an entire Season(4000K) on my Zipp 303 firecrests/Hookless with Schwalbe Pro Ones 28mm (Orange Sealant- Endurance)and im entirely happy with the Setup . zero Punctures fast and comfort Ride. Mounting the Tires was easy with a standart Floor-Pump.I stick wick tubeless/ Hookless

Yep. Normally, you get the same sound when the bead pops out of the centre and onto the shoulder. Once seated, they retain sealant in just the same way as hooked.

There will be pops when seating the tire. I think the sidewalls on some tubeless tires are more rigid, which is why some tubeless tires (most notably conti gp5000) are not compatible with hookless rims. Maybe they have softer sidewalls

IMHO Hutchinson. Eg Fusion 5 Performance 11 Storm TLR

If you need a bit more comfort, then hookless gives a bit more leeway to lower your pressure. Also, quite a range of options now. Horses for courses.:-)

@@JibbaJabber why does hookless allow lower pressure than hooked? With hooked rims there is a mechanical hold between tyre and wheel.

@Dave Lloyd For the same tyre size, I believe the hookless rim allows the tyre to 'open' up slightly more, bulb vs U shape. This creates more volume, or alternatively a larger diameter. Without going into hoop stress, the pressure actually needs to drop in order to keep the tension within the tyre the same. But this is OK, since the change in shape has also resulted in an increase in sidewall height (now U shaped). Thus the overall effect is to allow more squish without bottoming out. This change in shape and pressure also widens/shortens the contact patch, thereby lowering rolling resistance and improving traction. As for keeping the tyre in place, the hold has as much if not more to do with the inflexibility of the tubeless bead than any 'mechanical grip from the rim itself. The bead strength and tight tolerances between the bead and rim are what keep the tyre from creeping over.

@@JibbaJabber I thought it smoothed out profiles but I don't see how the volume of the object can change, it's just a different shape

@@davelloyd8454 Imagine a circle. Cut it at the top and slowly start moving the ends apart. Now imaging filling the gap with new string. What you'll notice is that you've increased the circle's diameter, and thereby it's area. The same principle can be applied to a tyre where the tyre is allowed to open up, but the open gap is filled instead by the rim bed. Furthermore, bearing in mind that a tyre is essentially akin to a long tube, if you're increasing the cross-sectional area, you're increasing the volume. ☺️👍

You should only use a tube to get home if you get a puncture that won't seal, which is rare in my experience.

More expensive - Not necessarily. Hutchinson Fusion 5 around £30 Thrown away after puncture that cannot seal - Not necessarily. Can be patched - Hutchinson tubeless repair kit. Still need to ride with a tube - Not necessarily. Nice and simple - Dynaplug tubeless repair Kit. Sidewall stiff - Not necessarily. Most I've used tend to be supple. Only the bead need to be 'stiff' (ie resistant to stretching). Any other concerns you can think of?

@@JibbaJabber dynaplug doesn't fix big cuts. Plenty of sealant, 2 plugs and I still ended up with a tube in.

@@davelloyd8454 Hi Dave. I think OP was comparing std tyres to tubeless. So, if your tyre was that badly cut I think it would be shot in any case. The fact that you managed to tube it and I assume get home was testament to their versatility. Do you have a tubeless patch kit? If so, was it safe to patch?

@@JibbaJabber I have run tubeless for the past 5 years and have patched a good number of tires, sometimes with more than one patch in different areas, with absolutely zero issues. Patched tires have held up great for me. You just have to patch them properly.

This always gets me. Compared to what? A Penny Farthing?

There is a number of control variables that affect this. Without stating the controls it is basically meaningless.

@@waynosfotos Presenter makes specific comment without substantiation and destroys his credibility.

Fellow dinosaur here.

I have a bike from the 1950s, two bikes from the 1960s and two bikes from the 1970s. I can still get parts for them. Don't be worried about being 'forced' to change to a re-invented wheel.

How do you store your bike in your cave?

​@@edrcozonoking Ahh. I get it. Cave, old. You got the green eyed monster.

Couldn't agree more

Revolucione! 😀👍

Wow. You're a genius. Please listen to the video. And just a thought, why would companies make something which is not safe? They'd be sued left and right and they would lose if the product isn't safe. If one wins the case, thousands more would rise against them making companies lose millions. Zipp, Giant are companies with scientiests and testers behind them. Don't be dumb. Please.

Michellin won't even run their tubeless (TL) tires hookless - that says a lot.

@@noels8817 Continental also states hooked rim only on their GP 5000 TLs, basically anything above 5 BAR (72PSI) is a big no for hookless that's why they go wider and usually accept only 28mm and above. If you want 25mm or below go hooked, actually you will not find tubeless for 23mm and below. Hookless is safer when you run low pressures, that's why is ok for Gravel/MTB, hooked rims tend to burp when pressure is really low (normaly around 1 bar) and you have high lateral forces that can temporarily unseat the bed, on hooked rims if the lateral force is superior to the air pressure can blow the entire tire away, with hookless the tire normally will seat again in place as there is no hook. On higher pressures the hook is safer, at 3+ BAR the lateral forces has to be incredibly high to move the bed at 6+ BAR imagine... The only claim they can make is if you have a puncture that is not sealed, when pressure goes lower than 1 BAR then hookless might be safer, but again with tubeless pressure loss is gradual so you should notice the puncture way before it goes to 1 BAR. This is to reduce cost, and is nonsense, Chinese brands like yoeleo and winspace are using hook on carbon wheels at much lower prices than Zipp. On the high end Capagnolo is still using hooks on their carbon wheels. I'm in for a new bike build myself (as soon as things calm down, I hope next year) and I'm banning all hookless rims from my selection.