What is wheel offset and why is it important 

where did u get the 25.4 from?

@@tjgrafiks 25.4 is the conversion variable to change the (mm) to inches from an aspect ratio. (25.4mm = 1 in)

@@ThePitStopTirePros ah ok. new to this and learning. so how do we know what size rim to get or what width to get. I currently have 225/70/16 on my crossover vehicle. it's called a Honda Crossroad out of japan not sold in the U.S. I want to put wider tires. based on the formula my mounted diameter is around 28" or so which is correct bcuz i measured by tape the other day lol. my wheel well width is just under 31" from the widest section. I"m also lifting my car by 2" inches. I just don't want to screw ordering the wrong size tire and rim. not sure if I need to drop down to 15" for an offroad or aggressive tire. would be great if u could help. I don't know how much negative offset I need. I'm looking at a 15/16" rims on ebay with a -19 offset. have no clue if it's enough or too much lol all I know is that everything needs to be maybe a tad bit under 30" to be safe. 29.5-.75 but can't find anything in that range. I was thinking maybe 255/65/16? so would I need a rim at least 10" in depth? but it also seems that off road/MT with the same specs are a little bigger bcuz of the thicker exterior or the design

Most of the manufacturers we’ve worked with do come with a recommendation either stated in their tech specs or front or back of any install guides. If not we contact the manufacturer directly to talk to their tech department for a recommendation. Having a plan for all aspects of the build allow for minor adaptations but with the highest probability of successful aesthetics and performance.

Don't be that person

just get a bit bigger tires without lifting they will tell you what size would you able to use Hope you know lifted truck taking more gas ⛽️ do not blame me guys to I advice someone

@@vumsang9746 perhaps would you know what size mm comes with a factory standard 2016 yukon Denali ??? For instance I’m look to purchase a FACTORY rim for it , but it’s asking me is it a 24mm or 31mm 🤷🏽‍♂️🤷🏽‍♂️ My assumption is 24, but I’ll rather ask to be certain!!

I still don't get offsets at all. You can have a positive offset that looks the same as negative?? like looking at +20mm and it gives a better stance than negative options. Am I missing something

​@Larrybobangles Yes, your missing the backspace. The backspace of the wheel will change everything... I'm surprised that he didn't bring it up...

@@jeffersonhenn1086 isnt it the other way around? the negative offset using for a wider tire will push the tire outward giving it a wider base and more clearance inside. i think he said that.

Correct 23/ 25.4= .9055

I need to listen again. I heard that if factory is +33 that -10 would widen the stance and +10 would decrease the stance.

@@thetomasloretta anything greater than +33 will decrease the stance. For example a +45 or a +39 (both greater than +33) would decrease the stance.. So +10 is less than +33 so therefore a +10 will widen the stance.

We are in the Western slope of Colorado

That would take your rim from its factory stance @+44 and push the rim out of the fender 2.44”. Would NOT recommend it. Plus the width is also over excessive

Offset, backspace, bolt pattern all are fixed specifications on rims. Bolt on spacers are commonly used but we do not recommend them. Additional cantilever torque on hubs can cause premature wear to bearings.

Offset is really only meant to give you enough space to clear your suspension arms any more can actually start to obstruct the tread in the fender wells. Your offset difference is slightly over 3”. Typically negative offset is a compensation for a wider tire. Lift or leveling is for a taller tire. Ergo when upsizing a significantly wider and taller tire both adjustments are combined (lift & offset). Not just one. Rough country has a really good tire guide below each of their lift components to understand what wheel and tire combo will fit with each lift including tire size and wheel offset.

@@ThePitStopTirePros I found one that is 16x9 -12 offset would that be to much i already can fit these tires height wise a little to well the bigger 265s but yes I need to clear maybe an inch or so on the inside I think I just took 2 inch wheel spacers off because they had torn up my wheel bearing

285/70/17 / 32.7”

It will all the depend on the current spacing between the tire and suspension arms in the wheel well. Remember that when tires are upgraded the width of the tire almost always widens with an upgrade in height because of aspect ratios. For example if you have a 1/2” gap between the upper control arm and tire currently but are upgrading to a taller tire that is also 1/2” wider then you’ll have 1/4” less room to the UCA with the same offset. But if your gaining 1/2” width, and negatively offsetting 1/2” away from the hub then your gapping will stay the same at 1/2”. Most factory offsets are a positive number typically between 20-50 and are in mm. (MM ➗25.4 = inches)

👍

No those angle typically aren’t affected by negative offset, but a bolted on spacer could do more wear and tear on the hub/bearing overtime because of the increase of fulcrum distance from the bearing center.

That is only a 31.64” tall tire so probably fine for second and third generation Tacos but maybe too tall for a first gen. But test fitting would be what we would do with full turn checking before releasing.

@@ThePitStopTirePros awesome thank you! thanks for answering about all gens lol i forgot to mention that. Im going back and forth between a used 1st gen or just get a 2022. Either way once i get it ill be headed out to you guys.

Would be impossible to say anything for certain without a test fit, but your difference is 20mm. One inch is 25.4mm so 1/5 less than one whole inch of rim outward past the current rims position.

No it’s an aftermarket wheel that allowed the offset change.

It looks like your values are all very close, you still have to factor your tire size and the applicability to the rims in question. What I would advise as just another opinion on the internet, is ask the manufacturer if they have a fitment guide to the rims your looking at installing or if not what we typically do is if there is some gray area, we always test fit with the option to return to our distributors prior to installing tires so we can verify fitment to the hubs, around the brakes and with enough backspace and clearance to safely install. With lifts companies like BDS for example they have recommended numbers that give you the rim and tires that you should fall within to match their installed product. So bottom line, get as much verified information specific to your vehicle model and aftermarket products that will get you to as much information as possible to make the best decision.

Offset is in millimeters, easy calculation is to find out the factory offset, positive number and add the additional negative number to it, divided by 25.4 and that would equal the inches you would use to determine the amount that the rim is going to pull out from the wheel well. (for example 44 + (-12 offset) = 56 total millimeters or 2.2 inches

Test fitment is always recommended when going to aftermarket wheels but the rule to keep in mind is your stock offset +55 / +60 = 2-17” / 2.36” (mm to inches). 6 inch lift (going up) what is the ideal stance for offset to match (height vs width)? It is a preference, but a vehicle on stilts is much more prone to rollover than a vehicle with a wide base especially with the overall large footprint of a 37”. Deal with a professional when lifting to get the best information recommended by manufacturers, but your vehicle shape should look more like a triangle and less like a field goal H.

That will all depend on recommendations made by the lift manufacturer and their specifications, the wider the rim the more negative offset will be needed.

Not sure your vehicle trim as most of the Camero’s have either a base model with same tires and wheels front to rear in that case the offset is + 38 for matching front and rear setups (LT option). But a ZL1 option has + 23 in front and + 43 in the rear. So according to fitment it sounds like you have some missing information to give you a proper recommendation. Based on your question I would go with a reputable seller that uses a fitment guide to properly advise you of your options for the vehicle. Offset is in mm so a few mm in either direction is typically not a big issue, but you want a company that will stand by their recommendation so any returns or exchanges are on their dime and not yours.

I have an LS..thank you for your time a recommendation.

Any greater distance will eventually change the wear and tear of any vehicle but with proper maintenance many installed items can last just as long or longer depending on the build quality. Rims typically don’t change much unless it’s a drastic change in size and settings from factory.

Spacers or a new rim with additional negative offset, in combination with more lift to accommodate better clearance of the turning radius based on the tire size that is installed.

@@ThePitStopTirePros I heard the offset is written or stamped on rims is this true? The rims I got are for wider and bigger diameter so I'm assuming I definitely need spacers. I'll get under it and see

@@tonydiazist the backside of the rim will typically have serial number (sometimes), diameter and width. Offset most likely not. Best recommendation is taking to a professional that can advise based on facts, not speculation in order to make a proper assessment.

It would depend on at what point in the turning radius that the rubbing occurs. Typically more negative offset from an aftermarket rim would create more clearance. It’s also a possibility that the larger tires maybe the issue, one that negative offset may or may not fix. Lifting a vehicle, plus sizing tires, with factory or aftermarket rims is usually done with manufacturer or tire guideline for fitments.

@@ThePitStopTirePros i have a 3" lift. it's just rubbing against the control arm really.. there's still a lot of clearance elsewhere.

A heavy deviation from factory offset could potentially cause premature wear and tear but have experienced customers going as far as possible with negative offset on vehicles. And the two most noticeable cause and effect issues would be an increase in road tracking (wandering in the steering wheel) and increased paint chipping on the sides of the vehicle from tires throwing rocks.

​@The Pit Stop Tire Pros is -25 offset ok? 265/75/16 tyres

It would totally depend on the vehicle your adding those specifications to. Every vehicle has specific sizes (tires and rims) that will fit from factory and those that won’t. Using a fitment guide is the safest bet, not randomly choosing options. If a vehicle is modified from factory then a manufacturer recommendation is usually the specs you should use.

Wheel offset and width are two separate measurements. If you have two rims with the same offset but one is wider there will be a slight difference in more rim sticking out as well as more rim in the well. 1.5” split to .75” out of the well and .75” inside the well in your example. If you are going taller in tire size the aspect ratio will almost always dictate wider width as well, in some cases requiring a wider rim too. If your worried about too much out of well distance that has to be covered consider a well flare like some bushwhackers.

Is is not the same as wheel offset but can accomplish the same purpose if larger tires are mounted on stock wheels for example after lifting. The debated detriment is how much additional fulcrum torque is applied to the outer hub bearing causing premature wear and tear to wheel bearings and lug studs if a non bolted spacer is used. For example a 1/8 disc spacer reduces the total amount of threads grabbed by the lug nut ergo reducing applicable torque and load to the stud. Bolted spacers have more structural integrity but increase the fulcrum volume to the outer bearing because of the distance increased between the wheel and hub.

You will lose 39mm or 1.54” of your offset. Meaning the rim will cause the wheel and tire to go in (the wheel well) that much distance. Hard to say if it will fit but with a 4” lift, your stance vs center of gravity will take a hit making the cornering seem much less stable and more top heavy since your are in essence narrowing your tire footprint.

@@ThePitStopTirePros What about adding wheel spacers?

@@PHILLIPS8822 you can, but there’s an additional torque applied to the hub bearing as a cause. But if your not off-road consistently shouldn’t be an issue.

@@ThePitStopTirePros I've never done off road. Any idea what brand spacers are good quality?

@@PHILLIPS8822 honestly we never do spacers at our shop, we are a heavy off-roading area. But I’m sure there’s some reputable companies for them.

Ultra

Most are offsets are a high positive #. So it should bring the tire out about 1/2” or so, and the tire should be fine for a third gen & second gen tacos, might have some issues with first gen. Just have to test fit and verify.

@@ThePitStopTirePros wow, appreciate the quick response. It’s a 2022. Thank you!

@@mistert780 I use an alignment turntable to check wheel well fitment. I would request the same for the installer.

Whenever we do any install we always take into account the recommended tire size the lift manufacturer states as the maximum tire size that will fit the vehicle after installation. Your offset difference is 1.417”. So take into account where the tire sits now and figure that distance it’s going to move outward. Whether or not it will rub depends again on the recommendation from the lift manufacturer, sometimes you have to call them, as well as the intended jump in width which your average rim is going to be 7.5-9” which 11.5” is between 22-45% wider. Even at 9” the 11.5” gives you 2.5” total increase giving you 1.25” in both directions. The offset gave you 1.417” outward and the width took away 1.25” so your left with .16” of additional clearance. Although this is all speculation as typically having our customers in shop and measuring all of this is our usual protocol. Bottom line recommendation would be to get all of your existing measurements and compare them to your desired component measurements and as long as they fall within the limits of what the wheel well will fit, plus a test fit will give you your answer.