What's really going on with sewing pattern sizes and why does nothing you make fit? 

A meme I came across on Facebook said it best, and it was an old sales flier for an Elna Sewing matching, "When you make it at home yourself, the size is whatever you say it is"

I think I'm probably a level 4. My really big "Ahah!" moment, after attaining level 3, was when I realised any basic pattern can be used as a block and I didn't need to buy more patterns to have different garments. Learning to swing a dart opened a whole new world to me. I've also begun draping my own patterns. I padded up a mannikin (Doris) with quilt batting to match my bumps and lumps and made a stretchy cover for her. Doris has made my sewing life much easier.

I wish I had this good, calm, clear explanation to give to a young woman some years ago... I was sitting at the pattern book table leafing through the new patterns when a teenager and a friend sat down. The first started talking about how she needs to find a pattern so her grandmother can make her a prom dress. She found one she liked and then started talking to her friend about the size. "Well I wear a size 4 so this should fit." I decided to save her from a potential dress disaster and told her she needed her measurements because pattern sizes have nothing to do with RTW sizing. She was horrified to learn that she'd be a size 10 in that particular pattern. "I am NOT wearing a double digit size!!" she exclaimed. I was not successful in convincing her that size numbers mean nothing. Thank you for reinforcing that message!

These are stuff I wish I knew when I made my very first pattern-based dress. I was so frustrated why it came out too big when I measured myself so many times to make sure I chose the right size from the chart. I have come to a point where I know patterns are just guides and I have to customize so fits me right. I enjoy grading and mashing but it can be tedious. Please make a video on tips for adjusting pattern sizes. And once again, you make the best sewing related videos!

Sewing the first ever trousers using a sewing pattern, I assumed that they'd fit when I picked the "right" size. The cream cotton twill trousers looked beautiful. However, when wearing them to a home route concert, the reason I had sewn them, I quickly discovered that the waist was too tight and the crotch length was much too short. I spent a very uncomfortable evening, but learned a few valuable lessons! Fit as you sew and try on your new garment before wearing it, especially when you can't change into something more comfortable! The trousers went into the trashcan!

Also important to disregard general information about the “correct” pattern size. I have a large bust and general info says to pick the patterns for tops using my full bust measurement. WRONG. Shoulders are huge and sloppy looking. Finally had an instructor tell me to start with high bust measurement and adjust the bust from there. FINALLY! Still not easy enough for me to do lots of tops but at least doable.

The aha moment for me was being shown the 'formulae' with adjusting bust size, then bust to hip length and of course shoulder to bust length with a paper pattern - before you get anywhere near the fabric. The discipline of using angles and length of darts, cutting the pattern and making your own bespoke template was truly amazing.

This video is spot on for me. When I began to sew our teacher was a stickler for pinning the patterns to our bodies, doing alterations, and then to proceeding the fabric layout. I however got lazy and bought a pattern and cut out my measurement, it always fit. Fast forward 40+ years and I have to go back to fitting. It is very hard to break old habits, but the result is so rewarding. I don't feel I will ever be a 4 because now fabric creates its own variable.

I think the underlying issue here (and maybe you've addressed this Evelyn) is that for many women, myself included, learning about sewing comes with a deep and personal realization about your body size and body image in relation to clothing and what is considered to be "normal" or "beautiful" for in many cultures. When you deviate from that "norm", there is real and genuine fear and sadness that you are not beautiful or normal. There are a few stories here in the comments that highlight some of this, like the girl who was shocked to be "a double-digit size" in pattern sizes versus a size 4 from a store when she had asked her grandmother to sew her prom dress. There are many scholars who have commented that shape and size of female bodies to go in and out of style (just like the length of hemlines) and this is a product of some pretty toxic cultural beauty standards. First and foremost, you do not need to be any particular size number to be a valid person. Full stop. Clothing is meant to clothe a body, not the other way around. There has been a great distortion in this thinking for many women and the fashion industry (in general) hasn't been particularly kind to people who fall outside these "cultural norms". That being said, learning to sew is empowering! You can take things in, let things out, make things longer or shorter or more flattering to your coloring or your shape. You can learn to make 18th century court dresses which you would NEVER find at the mall. You can be like Evelyn and rock 1930s glam all while teaching other people to sew. You can add pockets and buttons and snaps anywhere and everywhere and you don't need to rely on someone else to make it for you or hope that it comes back into style. When you learn you can manipulate fabric to what YOU need in your daily life, you unlock a whole lot of potential for everyone! TLDR; Sewing is cool and pattern sizes are just made up go live your best life.

I’m still learning and I’ve been sewing for years. But as u get older and your body changes especially after children it’s a whole new ball game so measurements are extremely important. I have finally figured out what works for me and yes I do a lot of altering sometimes but making that awful painful muslin is key to making life easier. I’m not patient I want to just sit down and sew my outfit but if it doesn’t fit properly you just get depressed and want to quit. So as I said many years later I’m still learning and I love it!!!!

hi evelyne .i learned on my own ,has i went to high school i got one class for 45 min,and i remeber thinking i want my owe day in this class,but it was what it was, so when my family member cave me her old sewing machine,i thougt well i know that patterns tell alot how to put them together,so i started there, and got a book to but never realy used it. this was way back in the 80,s i stared to sew, well i have learned a lot seince then. now there are lots of videos on youtbe, so i have learned about adjusting pattern to fit ,and the fabric to that was hard to learn, you are the best teacher for me. great stuff, love it, in also learn at my paste. and and i never stop learning in sewing to this day ,i will tell others to it takes years to be a great sewer,but now todays day there are videos on learning that people will not have to wait as long to learn as i did. ty very much.

I'm a solid level 3; Through close measuring and paying attention, I've learned that I'm a full-busted pear shape. My hips run a full 2 sizes bigger than my torso most of the time. If a garment is going to fit my frame properly, I use my high bust measurement to size tops. Then do a full-bust adjustment. I cut the bottoms for my hips, knowing that I'll have to ease the extra fullness into a small waistband with strategic pleats, gathers, or darts. No wonder nothing off the rack fit me properly!

I usually find myself using the same patterns that I have adjusted - several times to avoid the inevitable new toile and test patterning with a new design. Its just more satisfying a sew- The fabric will always have a mind of its own even if you use a very well fitted pattern and in the end there is somehow always adjusting to do -

At first I was choosing patterns intentionally with tons of ease to keep sewing simple. Now I’m adjusting toiles and patterns before cutting my good fabric!

Oh my goodness my Mom always sewed my clothes in ready wear size oblivious to measurements. Everything was tight. She was an excellent seamstress everything looked well made but geezzzzz tight. In the past I had the same mentality, of course nothing fit. Now I know and I am going off my measurements and adjusting patterns. I am petite and I am adjusting for that too, which I never did before. I am also altering my ready to wear clothing to fit me better.

I had tears in my eyes while texting a friend about pattern sizes! Totally unnecessary in hindsight and sized don't mean much to me anymore. Not pattern sizes nor rtw. As long as it fits ME and I feel good in it.

When I first started sewing 20+ years ago, my size and the pattern sizes were on par and I never needed any adjustments. Now that I'm much older and have had a child I've come to realise that I won't ever be a "standard" again. Through watching CosTubers and other sewing channels I've learned so much that I'm probably long past stage 2 in theory at least and with tackling Victorian clothes making I'm practising that theory. I'm not at a stage yet to taking a pattern and making a block from it from the start, but I'm on my way. I'd love to do your classes at some point to help me along my sewing journey as there's just so much more to learn!

I'll link this in every fb sewing group I'm in :D fun aside, learning to fit garments properly took me a long time. :) But I always new not every flat pattern CAN fit every body

Making a muslin first helps though we tend to skip this part. Sizing is one reason I seldom sew garments for myself. There's nothing more frustrating than discovering something doesn't fit after putting all that time and work in. What a letdown! I've sewn for children for years and usually do not have sizing problems but children's pattern designs are more forgiving with lots of ease built in. If something's too big they can grow into it. Pattern alteration can be a hassle but a must in garment sewing. Happy sewing!

Definitely level 3+, but I didn’t have to make those mistakes in sewing especially by the time I got round to me!! My daughters are small for their ages, like the 6 year old looks about 3 and so they’ve never been in ‘chronological’ clothes and my eldest has very long legs so she would need an older length but a smaller waist/chest. So when I started sewing for them I immediately had to make adjustments!! When I sew for others I never tell them the size. My mum is a RTW 12 but often needs a 16 or 18 in sewing patterns due to her chest and hips and preferred ‘fit’ and that would horrify her!! The other thing to factor in is the Goldilocks effect in taste and style- some people like fitted clothes like hugging every curve, others like super loose and others somewhere in between so m people with identical measurements could consider the fit too tight, too loose, just right.

I am in the US and haven't had time or energy to do complete garment sewing for a few years. Right now, I am concentrating on mending clothes I have as I continue my weight loss journey to better health. I have a wonderful Evan Piccone outfit I would love to wear again (outlet mall garment), but the waistband of the slacks are crunchy elastic that I will have to replace.

Hello again Evelyn, the penny dropped last night !! I had been working on this simple lined dress for about 18 months to 2 years. I was travelling through the 'change of life' the Big M. My body changed measurements, and I lost my waist. I reviewed my old measurements and the pattern sizes and I had my answer. I have clearly thought that a size 14 would be big enough, but like you say, there are NO Australian sizes and I haven't taken my body measurements seriously enough. Boy oh boy, have I learnt a valuable lesson. I will finish this dress now (it requires hemming) and if my daughters don't want it, then I will sell it. First off, though, when it is complete I will put it into our small town show to help boost my confidence back up and feel less deflated. Thank you for helping me to learn, Evelyn, you are a wonderful .

I loved this video! I think I've been on Level 2 for quite a while now but this video definitely helped fill the gaps!

I've just begun garment sewing, and this is very useful information! I haven't tried to make anything fitted yet, so I'm grateful to have found this info in advance. Thank you!

I am also between sizes, I am a size 12 at my waist and a size 10 at the bust. In the past, I just chose to cut my patterns in a size 12 but now I cut them in a size 10 and add a little bit at the waist. I am so happy I discovered I can alter my patterns! :)

Yes, this is so important! There’s so much out there about how to make different pattern adjustments to make clothes fit properly, but first you need to know that that’s actually a thing you can look up.

These reasons are basically why I decided to give up on patterns and just draft from a block that already fits me. Saves me having to do an FBA on ~everything~

Thank you so much for the excellent videos you make. Each one has expanded my sewing knowledge. A recent lightbulb moment for me was realizing that different pattern companies draft differently for height. Would love for you to address that issue in more depth.

You certainly have my total interest now Evelyn. Being self taught starting in my 20s i then chose the figure size from shop bought items. Some patterns worked some failed. Only recently have I Returned to my sewing after retiring and purchased a dummy which was best decision ever for me. Your video suddenly makes total sense to me and has piqued my interest. Time to look at more of your tutorials . Thank you Evelyn .

I've always had trouble with the big 4 patterns & now I know why. I prefer pdf patterns they are way more reliable to sew with & only a very few adjustments for me!

I remember as a young woman (50 yrs ago) making dresses from Simplicity Miss patterns and they fit. But now I have to alter patterns in surprising ways!! But I know my body and now I often make my poor distorted mannequin (chloe) a recipient of pinned on pattern pieces so that I can see where and how I need to alter things. The nice thing is that I take a smaller size or two in a sewing pattern than I do in the shops, great for the vanity lol

Omg! This is my 3rd time watching this particular video. But I've only just had mu aha moment! Talk about slow learner! 😂😅 thank you so much!

That happened to me last week. I used to sew clothes, but have been making quilts for 25 years except for an occasional easy nightgown. I chose a size on a pattern for a dress that was 1 size larger than I wear, and when I tried it on (not yet completed), it was too small! And I have not gained weight. It was frustrating! I just made a nightgown with the rest of the fabric and am back at quiltmaking. My bad on the pattern, but I think I'm much better suited for quilt making.

Such a great explanation! Just got out of my sewing room and sat down to watch your video. I have really enjoyed your videos. I hope you have a fabulous week ahead. Thank you for post the video and sharing your time.

Having been sewing for 35 years and having gone to FIT, find the best fitting patterns are Burda and Vouge. Yes I can make my own, but sometimes it's just easier to buy a pattern. My favorite shirt pattern is a vintage mcCalls 3 hour shirt pattern which can be made in 1 1/2 hours with practice. Love your channel!

Love the dress on your dress form! What pattern is that?! So glad for your instruction.

I don’t usually make fitted garments but I have run into ease problems on occasion. I usually curse and fix it! I hate that struggle as you end up with a drab sack instead of a garment. I must always remember if you’re going to make something fitted make a mock-up! The only fitting class I have taken was for bathing suits which is completely different! My sister wanted a fitting bathing suit so for my birthday she got me the class plus the pattern and material! Good thing too cause my daughter had the same fitting issues. I had to add 2 inches into the body to get a good fit for the both of them with a one piece suit.

Thankyou Evelyn , great advice 🤩

I actually started with drafting patterns because I needed to save money. This was after probably two years of watching multiple historical and vintage channels where it was discussed and shown often. Then I moved on to corsets but still drafting. And just this summer I’m using patterns and have approached them as a base. A big reasoning is I’m just short and that moves things on the pattern around. Mock ups are still a thing and quality is still improving in my sewing. I have a lot to learn but I’m really thrilled with where I’m at with patterns

Quite a number of years ago I realized I needed to make alterations to patterns to make them fit me properly. However I don't know WHAT alterations to make for that to happen.

I have never been able to "fit" my patterns. I know I always have to adjust my waist by taking it up by an inch, but the other things I have a problem with. That is one reason I joined the Vintage Sewing School. It is really a great school with paitent explanations. Thank you, Evelyn!

That's great until one comes up against a pattern that tells you not to grade between sizes. At this point I gave up with commercial patterns and went on to using the SureFit Designs system. Now I basically draw my own patterns, but because of the master pattern I know that what I make will fit me properly and size isn't mentioned once.

I have tears of relief. Thanks for sharing this. XXXX

My realisations came many years ago and learnt to toile first to make sure the expectations met the reality. That way I knew the blended sizes worked and I didn’t cut my main fabric. I also learnt to save on fabric too by planning my cutting out by not following the layouts on the plan and folding the fabric in smaller sections. That way I save half to one metre.

You have so succinctly described my own experiences with sewing patterns! The first dress I tried to make (thankfully only from an old bed sheet) was too small because I didn't realise that pattern sizes are different from ready to wear sizes. 😢 Then I started slavishly making up the "correct" sizes, but finding that some fit elements were not right for my body shape (too short waisted, bust darts too high, crotch "rise" too short or too long etc.). Finally I am at the third stage of using patterns as a starting point and making alterations to actually fit me! It took a couple of years but I got there in the end 🎊🥂

Hi Evelyn, I've been following your blog for a few years now and I am amazed at what I am still learning after sewing more than 50 years! When I retire I am going to enrol in your classes because you can still teach an old girl new tricks!

If you can't find the ease measurements on the pattern envelope, they are sometimes printed on one of the main pattern pieces.

Ahh. A lightbulb! So that's why the mock up is so needful.

I only sew wovens. For tops, I obviously pick my size from the pattern, but, I measure the pattern itself. I’m underweight, I can get away with using the smallest size, because there’s so much ease in wovens, but grade out the hip to my size. I do not like too much ease. My size swims on me. For pants I use the patterns size, but only do a crotch length adjustment.

I always make a size or two smaller than what the pattern recommends for my measurements because there is always SO MUCH EASE! Like why does the pattern picture show a tight fitted dress and then the pattern includes 4 inches of ease around the waist? Common brands here don't even include the final waist measurement (usually it only lists the bust) so sometimes I manually measure each piece and calculate the final waist measurement myself when choosing what size to make

I think I realized early on that a pattern was just a guide. When I started making shirts I had a large layout area and copying patterns with tracing paper made it easier to see and measure what was needed for a better fit.

yes red is your color!!

I only been sewing for a few months but I am on the level of looking at the finish garment, but sometime I am still scared to trust it because its a smaller size than what I wear in ready to wear clothes. My mind knows to go with the finish garment, which have lead me to make a dress three times to get the correct size, lol

Very interesting. I cannot use commercial patterns as they do not, generally, go big enough . Those that do are basic, boring and frumpy. I would love to use the fun and exciting styles that are available to others. Especially the historical costumes. I muggle along as best I can without a pattern, basic skirts and tops and dresses. That resemble something from viking period construction (squares, rectangles and triangles)

I have realised my body shape has changed dramatically since I used to sew in my younger years. Whereas I used to be able to fit my body with standard pattern sizes, now I have to grade between three sizes. I have begun to do these alterations, but sometimes I come across a pattern that required so many changes I am stumped. I shall look into your courses.

I've been learning about making a body block so I can use a variety of patterns.

We have sewing programs in school (and mind it no option to choose until recently) so.. they builded the way that if you listen and continue to sew and not self teach yourself later you then know to build you own patterns from beginning, even maybe without realization how fibers and cloth work. So.. not exactly relatable, but still interesting:) Also about fitting and stuff, learning patterns and what normally counts as a "base" human help me better pick clothes - I have very big hips and no bust whatsoever, so many clothes normally crawl up on me and do not fit in my chest. So I just basically started to take clothes from men section for top and fit waist and length in clothes for bottom:)

My body shape is far from standard, so I learned to make muslins and pattern grade early on. I'm currently finishing up a shirt that blended 3 sizes and the muslin managed to fit perfectly without further alterations.

When I took up sewing in my twenties (let's just ignore the rather useless 'lessons' in primary school), everything I made from a pattern fit just fine without any more complicated adjustment than the length of a skirt or a sleeve. I was small busted, and happened never to use patterns that required darts. Forty-odd years on, my back has broadened, and now I know I'll have to learn to make more subtle adjustments. Happily, I like to dress in very simple clothes, so there are probably a few details I'll never need to know; but it's great fun learning.

when I was a teen I was a size 5 ... years later.. like 30 years later I fit into 1s and 3s.... they definitely changed what the numbers mean. lol.

Very informative. I’m starting to get a bit more of hang to fitting. I’ve actually done a sloper and attempted to use it to compare it to a pattern. Directions said to put grain line of pattern on sloper grain line. I could not find grain line with the arrows on pattern. Then I got another pattern and the front was missing. Then Something else came up . So I guess tomorrow back to the drawing board. I feel pretty confident about making circumference changes but on length do I mark circumference changes first and then move things up or down or do I do length changes first on pattern and then do circumference changes.

I’m starting to make pajama pants. I see I need to learn how to shorten the length but I’m unsure whether to crease the pattern paper from above or below the adjustment line. Also, how would I make the front and back of the pant leg match properly, since the original pattern seems to dip? I will ask my sewing teacher for help but your explanations are helpful and available on RU-vid. My best wishes for you!

Hello Evelyn, your advice is so extremely valuable. Thank you for all your time and effort for our benefit. I have a question that I feel connects to this video. I am in my mid 50's and thought that if I used a pattern and went by my measurements, it would fit. It hasn't worked 😪 twice I tried and I used 2 different patterns, both were dresses. I am wondering if there are dresses that are pattered for Miss, Mrs and Mature? I feel that I must have patterns for the Miss age group. Is this possible? 🤔 I do hope that you can enlightened me and that I may learn how to correct my expenses problem 🙂🇦🇺

Being 6'2" with odd proportions sewing patterns I learned quick are just "inspiration" and everything on paper gets 5 and 10cm added pretty indiscriminately and then I narrow in on my body shape and intended silhouette during sewing. Desperately need a manequin though as running back and forth to the mirror and eyeballing it against my body is getting wearisome :)

This is a real issue for me! 😭 I wish I could sew the same size in all patterns and then magically it will fit me 😅 but of course it won't happen! I've been sewing since 2015 and I always get nervous when I have to choose my size 😵

This makes me feel better about pattern sizes. As a plus size person, most "pattern sizes" top out a few sizes too small! Then the ones that are close, are for someone with smaller body measurements!

I don't know the level but I am grading up or down depending on location on pattern.

Trench coat overcoat in tweed wool? Tips on ease an size?

I ignore the size but go by the measurements and the item always comes up too big (the patterns I have are free from magazines and do not provide made up sizes and I’ve been too lazy to measure the pattern pieces). I have just had a go at adjusting for a bust enlargement. The mock up looks way better so fingers crossed for the final item.

Thank you so much for this! I always love your videos. I have two questions: my mother said it was easier to buy a pattern you knew would be too small and let it out, than it would be to take in something too large. Are you of the same opinion? Also, I absolutely cannot do anything when I try on the pinned-together tissue pattern. My mother was a pro at it, but I can't tell a thing. It is just such a big mess. Would you suggest finding an old sheet and making it out of that first? Thank you again!! 👗🧵

the problem I'm having lately is that, when a pattern can be bought in 2 separate size ranges, my top half is from one range and my bottom is from the other so I technically would have to buy it twice. for instance, if it comes as xs-s-m or l-xl-xxl my bust will be s and my bum will be xl so which pattern do I go for? 😅 I don't understand it because to look at me I just look like a pencil, pretty standard up and down..... I've been sticking to a line dresses when they are sized this way 😂

I would love to know how to measure myself properly so that I can pick the correct starting size.

Oh how I hate it when patterns do not give finished garment measurements! Burda is so guilty of this and even with measuring their patterns, it's always a bit of a surprise, surprise situation when you make your first toile...

As a plus sized woman, I want to ask if it's possible to FIND patterns in fabric stores that have measurements that would actually FIT a woman my size? It has been extremely difficult trying to start my sewing journey being plus size and not finding patterns in stores that are meant for my body.

I wish I knew this before I started my first pattern - now I have a cut pattern for a cute dress I can’t use because it’s way too small 😅

please can you talk on adding in for a full front body (60+). I have noticed 90% of us older ladies are sort of breast and belly. I have found it hard to fit thing because of this

Really struggling to adjust patterns to my body shape.. Will I eventually be able to adjust the pattern to my body in one go and on the pattern, or Will I always have to make 2, 3 mock ups before I get the pattern somewhat right?

If you're curvaceous, you're probably better off going with a pattern one size smaller and adjusting for full bust and hips. Don't be intimated by patterns with darts or princess seams, they give you more opportunities to adjust for a perfect fit.

The pants I buy from the store have huge wrinkles inder the butt. Is there a video here about that issue? Many thanks :)

I cannot find EASE on my patterns. Is this something newer patterns don’t include?

🇨🇦😃

It works this way in knitting too! Frustrating!

You never at the size, you look at the measurements. I always tell people - Your 'street' size will never be your pattern size. Have your measurements done properly and shop patterns by measurements only. I don't care if I have to make a size 22 to properly. So what? No one knows I made a size 22. I feel the same about off the rack rack clothes. No looks at the size tag, so who cares if I have one that is 14 and another that is 18 because manufacturers don't have any standard sizing. Women especially need get over being 'a size' and look to more what flatters what they got to flaunt. We ALL have stuff to strut. 🙂