Do you have a burning tech related question? Leave it in the comments section below using the hashtag #AskGCNTech and we'll answer it in a future episode of the tech show!
What's the best wheel set up for outdoor velodrome, front tri or 5 spoke or beefy 90mm..and on the back, full disk or Some spokes on a beefy aero rear wheel? #AskGCNTech
#AskGCNTech will those deep section aero rims hold up to occasional gravel use? I do both but only have the $ for one set of wheels. Can I get the deeper wheel aero gain but still be occasional gravel reliable.
#AskGCNTech I’ve been considering suspension seats/seat post. Do the good ones cause a efficiency loss thats noticeable, and any suspension seats/seat post you recommend. Already run gp5000 in 32 on a endurance frame, but im a heavier rider and extra comfort is appealing
#AskGCNTech When tackling 30-60 sec Strava KOMs, would you rather sprint out of the saddle on a road bike or go full tuck on a TT? Aero is key, right? Thanks!
Watching the pro racing it seems the vast majority of riders are running about 35mm rims, this is also what I decided to run due to my light weight and generally windy conditions.
Glad to read this, looking at kinlin tb25 as aiming for avoid carbon as know aluminium will out last it at moment so only tubular aluminium rim I seen so far are made by them
One of the issues on rim depth is the yaw angles encountered during a ride -- deeper rims may have more effect at larger yaw angles, but then deeper rims are also more prone to handling issues from cross-winds. I was surprised GCN did not address this.
I chose 50mm on both. I am a heavier rider (90kg) and find no issues with cross winds. My deep carbon rims are lighter than my old aluminium rims which means they help uphill as well.
Once was on a long 300km brevet which included gravel roads and encountered prolonged heavy rain downpours. Drivetrain was grinding. Stopped at a gas station. Retrieved a discarded motor oil can/bottle. And used the remains in the bottle to lubricate my chain. Perfect.
I used to use chainsaw chain oil, 'cause it's for chains, right!.. It works, but is really sticky and clingy and a real pain to clean off. Unmatched in heavy rain though, and really cheap.
"When I used to work in a chemistry lab I used to play with rubber, and, er , yeah, latex does get very brittle when it freezes..." Little glimpse into Ollie's private time
@G Rossi I'm not surprised. I just remember one of the departments in the Science building used to fill condoms and other similar things with colored fluid and toss them off the roof. Most likely to be shitheads. Still kind of funny.
@G Rossi Obviously, a social sciences study. (If I want to throw colored water-filled "balloons" off the roof of our building, what hypothesis should I pose to get permission?)
I'm 95kg, and recently put 88mm deep rims on. A couple of very minor twitches when a very strong side wind picks up, but otherwise I'd say they're perfect.
@Magic Knight An important note about latex tubes and caliper brakes: With caliper brakes, do not use latex tubes or even tubolitos (tubo's are known to blow out in hot conditions). A lot of heat is generated on the rim surface during rim braking, thus, the heat will blow out your thin latex tube. As for tubolitos in hot conditions, or when going down a mountain that involves a lot of braking, rim braking will cause a blow out! The lightest tube I've been able to run with caliper brakes and have had not had any problems with at all, is an 80 gram butyl tube from a well-known brand. Peace. And safe riding.
@@jaimeisreal It depends on what rims you have and where your ride what your weight is and of course how much you brake. I have no idea about turbolight but yeah never had any problems with latex innertubes in the alps or at home where its less hilly. I always run rimbrakes. I have actually never heard of a latex innertube blowing up. Although the SuperSonics from continental should also possibly explode.. but of course you should always be careful when descending, on any type of brake! :) I would say that another benefit of having a butyl tube as a spare is that it’s a lot easier to fit when having a puncture. I wouldn’t want to fit a latex innertube on the roadside,
I ride with 65mm wheels front/rear. I find that the rim width and tire width also makes an impact. If I have tires with about same width as the wheels, all good. If I put much wider tires (training, confort, etc), I feel a bit unsteady (live near the sea, so lots of crosswinds), but nothing too bad, just takes a bit of getting used to, but riding no hands can be scary at times. I have also used 40mm deep wheels, all good, no issues on handling. Interestingly enough, the only big scare I had with crosswinds (resulted in my crashing in the ditch) was with old school 24mm deep rims, but very narrow with 28c tires. So, I would not attribute thing to depth alone, but also shape (newer toroidal type profiles are MUCH better in crosswinds) and also the rim/tyre interface.
#AskGCNTech Last week Alex said that facial stubble may actually be more aero as it creates a boundary layer of air that helps reduce drag. If that is the case then wouldn't the same apply to hairy arms/legs?? Is it actually more aero to be unshaven?
For me I find I'm most comfortable ridding on 50mm rims. Which I also use to climb mountains here in Nevada. We do have high winds frequently here. So I also have 35mm rims for those days. I have been hit with a strong cross wind that has almost out me down. That's an experience I'd like to avoid.
In USA we use Ranch Dressing instead of Olive Oil to lube our chains on weekend group rides. Ranch Dressing makes everything better. If the cafe doesn't have this, try Siracha Sauce, this penetrates the bushings and roller for deep cleaning, but can etch & corrode untreated chains, so do not over-do it.
I've just gone to 50mm rims and have no issues with cross wind, plus if I want to go faster I put a white stripe on the top tube, don't waste your money on tan wall tyres.
#askgcntech, controversy, strip the factory grease off a new chain, Alex says yes, and I'm pretty sure in a previous video Ollie says no. Duke it out boys!
On the talk of the impact of wind on a deep section wheel. Have you tried Cane Creek viscoset headset steering dampeners? No afiliation. But dampeners have been on both road and offroad motorcycles for eons. May want to race around castle combe on a windy day and give it a crack. I have raised this with GMBN re their piece on handlebar length.
Very informative video as always. I agree with the petrol scooters, those were pretty distracting in the last few videos. Would a different lav mic be a good temporary solution?
Muc off do inner tube sealant. I have been using it in my inner tubes but sadly it didn't stop a 2 inch screw taking a big gash out of the tube...other then that no punctures so far
Can you make a comparison between a maxed out aero road bike and an average TT bike? How big is the difference and how close you can get with deep section wheels, aero handlebars etc.? #AskGCNTech
Answer: Not much difference unless you're (a) in great conditions; (b) at high speeds; and (c) a serious professional rider. You will see a bit of a difference in the wind tunnel between a maxed out aero road bike (£6,000 or above) and an average TT bike (£12,000 or so), with the TT bike being a bit better. Twice the cost, though -- or close to it, anyway. If Si did 5 miles on the maxed out aero road bike and 5 miles again on the average TT bike, in the same conditions and such, he would be a bit quicker on the TT bike in terms of time for the same effort, etc., but it wouldn't be worth £6,000, give or take. Also, from an objective standpoint, I think the TT bike would be a bit harder to ride, regardless (assuming you're talking about drops vs. tri-bars). However, this test would largely come down to body positioning. If Si rode the road bike with a more relaxed position, then the TT bike would beat the time by quite a lot, if he rode with a standard road position (aero), then the TT bike would win out by a little bit, and if he rode in an aggressive, full-aero position on the hoods (akin to the tri-bars with elbows in, etc.), then the TT bike wouldn't be much faster at all. It does seem, however, that a very average bike and a TT bike or maxed out road bike have major differences, one of which being around £6,000 to 10,000. Is it worth the difference in performance? Clearly not -- unless you are a pro, in which case, every watt and mm matters a fair amount. I would be more interested to know the actual input/output differences for normal riders (average speeds, etc.) on a decent, typical £500 bike and a high-quality, semi-aero £2,000 bike. Four times the cost, but most likely not four times as good. I would guess maybe twice as good for raw performance, but maybe three or four times as good once you factor in the quality of the parts and materials, etc. Who knows. Most cheap bikes last anywhere from 6 months to 5 years, whereas, high-quality bikes almost certainly last 10 to 20 years, which is four to ten times as long. I have heard that beyond £2,000 is when you really don't see much improvement for your money. GCN has said many times that the lowest-level entry bikes are around £300, typically steel and from top brands, with maybe chrom steel, etc. at the £400-600 range for some bikes, and then really good entry-level bikes and/or mid-range is more around £1,500, and then by £2,000 you are really starting to get into either high-end bikes or extremely specialised builds. At £3,000 or above, it's mostly professional road builds, or high-end touring bikes, etc. Mountain bikes tend to cost more at the higher ends, so £2,000 is quite common for serious downhill mountain biking, but still this is not needed and largely used by pros or riders who are close to pro level. I would assume that for average riders, depending on a number of factors, £400 to £1,000 is the range for the correct balance between wattage, drag, style, parts, materials, and so on, without spending endless amounts of money, that is. We can assume, then, that the biggest improvements are made between £300 and £2,000, with not many improvements below £300 unless you get a cheap deal on a solid bike, and smaller and smaller improvements beyond £2,000. Remember, the wind tunnel tests at Silverstone, etc. only really hold true if (a) the conditions are ideal; (b) the rider is a pro; and/or (c) if the bike is at high speeds. Some things help a lot at lower speeds, but this only tends to be true in ideal conditions, nonetheless. It's not worth £5,000 just for some improvements at mid-speeds for non-pros. It just isn't. You save minutes off your ride at most. At best, a £10,000 bike only seems to save you maybe 10-20 minutes from a fairly long ride, and that assumes decent conditions, pro-level fitness, and high speeds. If this isn't your job, and you don't need to be somewhere really quickly, for some unknown reason, then £10,000 is clearly not worth saving a few hours a day/week or whatever the case may be. If you are cycling long-distance 24 hours a day, then it's clearly worth it, and you'd need a high-end bike, anyway, for durability. Then again, if you can ride for 10 hours a day or whatever, I can only assume you're a pro or a tourer, and tourers tend to go for comfort over performance, anyway. Most of the high-end bikes and parts and tests, etc. are made for three reasons: (1) to sell to people who don't need it but have a lot of money to waste; (2) for professional riders of all types; and (3) for time trials, etc. and to simply advance the technology. That's it. They don't really work for normal road riding at mid-range speeds, more so if the weather is crazy and/or you're not a highly skilled rider. You save some watts/minutes, yes, but for a very high price tag. Overall, therefore, you should just stick with a typical £2,000 mid-range road bike, or even cheaper than this. You can upgrade a few parts for closer to £5,000 if you want, but this also isn't really needed or useful, but if you want to, you can -- capitalism and freedom, after all. :) P.S. Body positioning as been proven to be the best for drag/watts, etc., followed by tri-bars or such to lower drag/be more aero, but this does require much skill and good fitness. Nevertheless, this is first and foremost -- and pretty much free. If you have bad positioning then £5,000 on clothing, frames, wheels, and so on won't mean much at all in terms of watts/drag. The channel did a video on the best upgrades for watts/drag to money. Tri-bars are the best, along with clothing, positioning (free), tyres, and helmet. Frames, wheels, rims, and so on are more costly and not as good as the other improvements, and offer smaller improvements in and of themselves. Obree proved in the wind tunnel that his 'egg position' on a more normal bike (most likely £3,000 or more) was better than a normal aero position on a high-end TT bike (most likely £12,000), for example. So, in case you were wondering why all of this is even happening in terms of hype, parts, drag, etc. -- marketing. They want your money. Very simple. Some founders of such companies and other pros have even come out and said directly that things like high-end deep rims (£1,500 or so) are not worth it for most riders and can actually make you slower in strong winds, yet people still keep buying £1,500 rims. Why? Marketing, false hype, and style/personal reasons, that's why. It's just as much about psychology as it is technology. If you look and feel fast, then you make yourself go faster, even if it doesn't actually aid in your speed from an objective standpoint. That's why a lot of people have TT bikes or high-end deep rims and so on. After all, TT bikes are literally made for pros and nobody else. It just so happens that average riders are able to buy pro-level bikes and use them, but it doesn't mean they will help at all. It's like how average painters can buy high-end paint and brushes if they are willing to pay for it, but that doesn't mean they will help them paint much better.
Another important tip is to not use CO2 to inflate a tube repaired with a stick-on patch. The adhesive on the stick-on patched fails from the cold temperatures caused by the CO2 injection. If you don't have glue-on patches, you have to use a pump.
#askgcntech. Hi Ollie/Alex. I am looking to replace the wheels on my road bike. My bike is that old it still uses rim brakes and 23mm tyres. I am looking for a set of rims that use 32 spokes. I am not a feather weight and don't want wheels that will collapse when I get on the bike. How ever most wheels for some reason come with either 24 or 28 spokes. Sometime both. My question is. To keep the strength of a 32 spoke wheel in a 24 or 28 spoke wheel. Would going for a deeper rim make up for the lack of spokes? I am also going for alloy rim. If I wanted rims that didn't stop in the wet. I'd keep me ceramic rims on the bike.
An important note about latex tubes and caliper brakes: When using caliper brakes, do not use latex tubes or even tubolitos (tubo's are known to blow out in hot conditions). A lot of heat is generated on the rim surface during rim braking, thus, the heat will blow out your thin latex tube. As for tubolitos in hot conditions, or when going down a mountain that involves a lot of braking, rim braking will cause a blow out! The lightest tube I've been able to run with caliper brakes and have had not had any problems with at all, is an 80 gram butyl tube from a well-known brand. Do your research. And safe riding. Keep it up @GCN Tech.
What causes the freezing temps using a CO2 inflator is the rapid gas expansion (the CO2 in the cartridge is not cold). So, wouldn't a slower/incremental gas release using a CO2 inflator with a control valve solve the problem? I think it would.
Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman managed to ride the Long Way Up on e-motor bikes, their range had the Harley, you can buy them with 146 miles of range. So you can do photo shoots using these bikes, unless the shoot involves Hank or Mark Beaumont
Get a Cake Osa+ or Nui GT, both have removal batteries for easy swapping and range-extending especially if you have also a gear car that will carry the other batteries. OR get a derestricted cargo bike like the Larry v Harry eBullitt.
I've just slashed a grant for a Shimano C60 clincher durace wheelset I hope they don't give me any issue as I live in Bristol UK which is a quite hilly place...
#AskGCNTech Hi guys, I'm building a new road bike from the scratch. It's my first build, tho it's coming together just fine thanks to your tech videos. Just installed 110mm stem and handlebar and sat on the bike to see how it is. I felt quite stretched out when placing my hands on hoods. Now I am considering to replace stem to shorter, 90mm stem but I'm a bit afraid of how will it affect handling. Some forums suggest that short stem will leave an impact on high speed stability. Any suggestions? It's 57cm Orbea Orca OMR 2017 frame. Thanks
#AskGCNTech Should you pay any particular attention when washing bib shorts? I have heard many different recommendations from not using detergent to turning off the spin cycle to protect the chammy, are any of these true? Many thanks.
Not sure if this is a tech question or not...So if I was calculating the calories burned on my ride, what is more accurate, using my heart rate or using my power data? (I use different brands for each and they currently cannot link together) the difference between the two on a 60km ride is around 1000 calories?!
#AskGCNTech I changed from Shimano Ultegra 11S chain to YBN chain (SLA110). The new chain has a much larger sideways flex. Occasional the chain jumps from the from chain wheel in high gears (52/11) on bumpy roads . It doesn't jump off when in the small chain wheel The Chain is the correct length, cannot be shortened and derailleur is nearly new (Ultegra, med cage GS) and works well. rear cassette is HG800 34-11. Is something wrong here or do I have to fit a chain guard to keep the cahin on the big chain wheel?
Short saddles = less material = lower material cost. As a rider who tends to inch forward until big efforts a short saddle is no bueno because I’d have to adjust earlier and more often.
@GCNTech what is the best way to align the Hope RX4 flatmount disk brake caliper? It is a 4 piston brake and the normal loosen the bolts and squeeze brakes, re-tighten bolts doesn't work.
Hi, i'm thinking of buying a cervélo s-series. I doubt of i need to take the di2 or the normal ultegra version? What do you think about this specific bike? #AskGCNTech
#AskGCNTech Hey GCN, I'm planning to do an Everesting. That's why I want to replace my Shimano cassette 11-32 with an 11-34. Which settings (H/L-screw / B-screw / indexing) do I have to change on my Di2 rear derailleur so that everything still works correct? According to my research, the chain length should still fit. Greetings from Germany
PAM cooking spray works in a pinch for chain lube and l use sealant filled inner tubes on my racey bike and normal tubes with Kevlar belted tires ,35x700c ,on my city steel road bike with great success !! ln future l ll be looking to get belted tires for the racey bike too !!
#AskGCNTech Do headwinds affect lighter riders more than heavier ones, assuming surface exposed to wind is comparable. My thought is: power (which correlates with muscle mass) is relative to weight but opposing wind force isn't ... (?)
#AskGCNTech. I have a nice Jamis di2 10 speed road bike. I like the ride and it’s light, would it make sense to upgrade to SRAM 12 speed and new rims or should I just save and buy a whole new bike? The bike is 8 years old, never crashed.
I've been thinking about this rim depth issue and I strongly disagree with the 45mm depth. I have roval CL50's which means they're 50mm deep so , that IMHO is the correct rim depth. Your welcome.
Actually, latex and butyl rubber have fairly similar glass transition temperatures (around -65°C, the temperatur at which the rubber freezes). So that should not be the reason why latex tubes puncture after inflating them with a CO2 canister. Also, after 'a few kmls' the temperatur will be very close to the surrounding temp again since the mass of the tire etc is way bigger than that of the CO2... Or am I missing something?
If the CO2 is injected quickly in one blast, you can freeze and delaminate an area around the valve/tube. I’ve had this happen on very hot days. I use CO2 in short bursts over a minute+ to keep the frost down.
Hi Alex/Ollie! I’m looking for small gains by upgrading my stock 23mm box section alu wheels to 30mm aero-profiled Vision Team 30 alu wheels. Paired with Pirelli P Zeros and latex tubes, would the wheels be worth upgrading to or should I just get the better tyres and latex tubes? #AskGCNTech
#AskGCNTech people often talk about latex tubes having less rolling resistance versus butyl, but I don't understand how a tube inside a tyre that doesn't contact the road can influence rolling resistance. Please Dr Oliver can you explain in simple terms.
#askGcntech how should i clean my bike if it’s just covered by dust after riding on dry dirt roads? Still the full water/soap treatment or just dusting it off without water is enough?
#AskGCNTech Related to the ideal rim depth: is there a limitation on the rim depth in the UCI rules for road racing (mass start) ? As a triathlete (...) i'd like to ride my bike with 55mm x 85mm rims, and I'd like to know if it is possible to bring this depths to the sunday peloton race if it's a flat course (already have my 38mm wheels for hilly/mountain courses). The list of approved wheels seems to confirm it's OK with 90mm+ rims... Cheers !
I’m enjoying the bike so far ru-vid.comUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA My only real complaints are the brakes and the pedals. I feel like a bike designed for bigger people should have much larger pedals and more heavy duty brakes. I’ve only gotten two really good rides out of it, minimal downhill action, and the brakes feel like they’re already going out. A larger person has more momentum, so I think this wasn’t thought through very well. Also, I wear size 13-14 wide shoes. My feet cramp up on these pedals that are clearly made for smaller feet. Since I’m not a pro rider (and I don’t think many are who purchase this bike) I don’t think that the straps on the pedal are necessary at all. None of this takes away from the enjoyment I get from riding, however. I’ll just head to a bike shop to improve on a few things.
Hi GCN, I've been riding a second hand roadbike I bought last year, but I wasn't really comfortable on it and realized it's because my saddle sat to much rearwards so I tried to move it as much forward as possible, but it was still nog enough. So then I turned the seatpost, which has an offset of itself, backwards so now I am sitting enough forward, but is it ok to do this? I'm finally comfortable on my bike, but the seatpost put backwards just looks wrong.
#askGCNtech. We are constantly told by Ceramic Speed that the larger the chainring/ pully wheel the more efficient the system is. (example Ceramic Speed OSPWS) But, Sram have made their chainrings smaller (SRAM X range) to make them 'more efficient. Who is correct!?1? Thanks in advance, James Lilley
#AskGCNTech When I hit some short strip of gravel with my precious Swiss Side carbon wheels I immediately feel bad - but in theory they should 'survive' that - or is it better to get off the bike and carry them some meters? Also - I'm happy about any tip how to remove stains caused by bike tires on parquet ? :D
I have a pair of rim brake pads that are incredibly stiff when inserting and removing them from my brake calipers. Is it recommended to use a lick of grease or anti-seize to aid the process? Both brands are Campagnolo. #AskGCNTech
#AskGCNTech Hey guys I hope you can help me with this. In my road bike I use Hifi Tubulars 38mm, I've been gluing them and I used to have Continental Gatorskins on them. However two weeks ago I decided to do some changes, instead of gluing them I decided to use tubular tape; and instead of Gatorskins I changed to Challenge Strada Pro Tubular. I've used them twice, and both times I get speed wobbles (Shimmy effect), which is very scary. What should I do to fix this issue? With the Gatorskins, I never experience this issue. Thanks for your help
#AskGCNTech Hello GCN Tech!I have an aluminuim frame on my bike and I want to replace it with a lighter carbon one,but keep all other parts(for now).Unfortunately because of the situation in bicycle industry,I can't by the the one I want (delivery will take at least a month or two) so I'm limited to the ones that stores already have in stock or used ones.Are there any compatibilities,apart from the obvious ones,that I need to watch for before buying one?Thank you in advance.
As a heavy rider, I ride 62mm rims on my TT and it's horrible in the wind. It's no fun. 45mm is the maximum, yes. I prefer 30-40mm on the road bike so that I can ride in all weather conditions.
I agree. I bought some near 50mm wheels lately and they're pretty annoying in anything other than perfect condition. I think mid 30's is the sweet spot.
#AskGCNTech Hi Alex or Ollie, I'm looking to go from flats to clipless pedals for the first time and have noticed different options in spindle lengths, for example Shimano offer the Ultegra in +4mm (taking them from standard 52mm to 56mm), same goes for some Speedplay. Is there a way to measure which is suitable without going for a bike fit or trying and sending back? Many thanks
I got a second hand tecx turbo trainer with a spare wheel that is, unfortunately quick release. Can I convert it to troughaxile so that I can use it with my bike? #AskGCNTech
#AskGCNTech How do disc brake calipers go out of alignemt? I had to losen the bolts and align them after a while. Could this happen if you don't use enough torque? How much is approprate (Nm)?
#AskGCNTech - Hi, I've been looking at power meters which reside in the crank and my question is how do they work and measure the power you are generating and is it the tech they use to measure the power the reason why they are as expensive as they are? Many thanks Matt.
Why would you not be able to plug a theoretical 12 speed Di2 derailleur into a 11 speed Di2 shifter (assuming current wiring protocols)? I doubt this will be the case and suspect Shimano is going at least semi-wireless, but a button is a button otherwise.
When I was in elementary school, they used to be this science demonstration guy that would bring dry ice and different things to freeze. I mostly remember the hot dogs. He would shatter them into pieces like glass. Really amazing when you're 8. Or in college as a chemistry student, I guess.
#AskGCNTech is being on a trainer damaging for front wheels? During sprints and efforts the front wheel is taking a lot of vertical load on just the one or two spokes since the wheel isn’t rotating. Over time could this damage the spokes/rim at the bottom, shouldn’t we have some kind of front axle stand (if you can’t afford a Kickr Climb)? Thanks
The amount of force you can put into the rim while pedaling stationary is substantially smaller (probably about 4x less minnium) than the force the rim sees while hitting a pothole at speed.
I’m a heavy rider… 115kg+ and looking at upgrading wheelset. I should just try to lose 10kg but buying new wheels is easier! Would carbon wheels be a waste or would good alloy ones be just as good because I’m heavy anyway #askgcntech
I know I’m probably late on this, but they help a little in the aero field. Nice off shoot is there more comfy because they have more up and down compliance
#AskGCNTech my Shimano 105 R7000 rear derailleur keeps getting out of its indexing. I've had the cable replaced, but every time I have it reindexed after a few hundred km's it's out off wack again. Any ideas on what could be causing this. I use my bike daily for a 84km round trip to work
New cable will stretch as it “breaks in”. It will stretch throughout its useful life but always more in the initial few hundred kilometers. The cable housing end entering the derailleur is an adjustment nut. It may require lifting to engage for turning/adjusting (nut has indexed notches). When shifting to a larger cog has become hesitant, Adjust counterclockwise 1/8 turn, test ride. 1 indexed notch more if needed untill it will shift without hesitation. 1/8-1/4 turn should be adequate unless you have ignored the hesitant shifts too long.
#askgcntech I have my first clutch rear derailleur and I can’t figure out why this is improved technology. Can you explain how it works and why it’s better. Thanks #olliedidthehourrecord?
clutch mechs better maintain chain tension, essentially stopping slap by taking up slack better, this also leads to better shifting and a reduction in drive train drag. The benefits aren't enormous if your on a road bike with a 2x set up and a front mech, but they make a lot of difference off road or with 1x #ollieattemptedthehourrecord
Hi Ollie, this has probably been answered before, but I can't find the answer. I have an older wheel with a 10 speed body and my new bike is 11 speed. Is it possible to fit an 11 speed casette on the 10 speed body. It would make it easier than changing the tire when using my rollers #askGCNtech
#askGCNTech My nw small frame bike came with r7000 crankset at 165mm. If I switch to a 170mm crankset, I’m assuming I will have to readjust my seat post/saddle position??
